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Old 09-12-2020, 03:40 PM   #1
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battery boost switch

My battery boost switch will not connect the house battery's to start the moter. I have a 2006 venture 33V . i am not sure whare to start looking.
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Old 09-12-2020, 05:28 PM   #2
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Okay, I did some looking and got some info but not real clear on location of the parts. Do you know where there is a "battery mode solenoid" located, likely near the battery or electrical bay and maybe behind a cover? It may be labeled on the cover. That is one item to locate as it is one of the critical parts to tie the two battery strings together.
As a first step, I would want to know that the coach batteries are charged as that will likely kill most of the other steps. If not charged, get them charged and then try as it may solve the issue. But, assuming they are charged and holding, locate the battery mode solenoid.It will likely be a silver solenoid and often next to the battery disconnect relay and look pretty much like the drawing shows. If the coach batteries are charged and the dash switch is working okay, you may be able to locate the solenoid as it makes a thump as it closes when the switch is pressed?
Click this drawing to see it better.
What you should find is a big red battery cable with yellow tape on it on the right side with another big red cable with purple marker tape on the left side.
Yellow one from coach batteries and purple marked is from the start battery.
The solenoid is just an electrically operated switch. When you push the dash switch connected to the small 16 gauge yellow wire, it makes the contacts inside the solenoid close connecting the left and right side big cables together!
Make sure the coach battery disconnect switch inside is turned on but you can ignore the relay shown at this point as it is not involved, even though close by.
This is a form of "jump start, so one way to test if the solenoid is working is to push the switch inside and listen/feel this solenoid jump/ thump. It is thumps but you still don't get power to the start battery, putting a jumper cable from the right to left big cables WILL connect them together. IF you then get power to start, the contacts inside the solenoid are likely to be worn and corroded and need the solenoid replaced.
But do make sure the coach batteries have power as I think it is required to make this solenoid move!
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Old 09-13-2020, 04:30 AM   #3
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Larry K. L-

According to what I see in the wiring diagrams (link here, "Chassis Wiring Installation," page 5) and the operator manual (link here) for your coach, the BATT BOOST solenoid is behind the chassis circuit breaker panel, which in turn is located behind the riser of the top step inside the coach. This is directly above and inboard of the battery box. I can see why Richard ("Morich") would have had a time finding the panel on the drawings, as it's usually more accessible that that.
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Old 09-13-2020, 08:51 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
Larry K. L-

According to what I see in the wiring diagrams (link here, "Chassis Wiring Installation," page 5) and the operator manual (link here) for your coach, the BATT BOOST solenoid is behind the chassis circuit breaker panel, which in turn is located behind the riser of the top step inside the coach. This is directly above and inboard of the battery box. I can see why Richard ("Morich") would have had a time finding the panel on the drawings, as it's usually more accessible that that.
Good info here as it is always good to look at things from different angles when we are not sure what's up.
Another point to keep in mind is how we may want to go about testing as there are often more than one point where we can test, depending on how difficult it might be to get to an item and what we have to test with.
In the case of getting to the mode solenoid, it may be out in the open or hidden in a space which takes hours to get to it.
I'm always likely to go first with a meter as I find that to be one of the most used tools on my RV but if a person doesn't have one or is not used to using one, there are other ways to go.
That means that if I suggest going to the solenoid but it takes two hours to get covers, etc. off to reach the left and right side, we need to do it different!
If we can't get to the solenoid, we can do pretty close to the same testing at several other points along the line, like the isolated stud or even at the start battery itself but knowing that the further out from the solenoid we move, the higher risk that we may throw a wrench in the test if we move beyond a connection which is corroded or loose.
Testing can be done lots of ways but each method does need some thought on how we use the results and we need to adapt our thinking to meet what we are actually doing.
One reason I like to use a meter is that it gives me real numbers rather than a light which only tells me yes or no on voltage. In this case if I can reach the isolated stud but not the solenoid, a meter reading 14 volts when the engine is running will tell me that is alternator power due to the high reading, then if I take the cable off the stud and testing the cable shows me 12 something volts on the cable end as I push the aux switch and no voltage when not pushing it, I know I am reading coach battery voltage coming through the solenoid and I don't have to dig the solenoid out as I know it's working! All we are wanting is connecting the coach battery we found at the cable we took off the stud to the start battery we found ON the stud or cable coming from that battery!
What gets most folks in trouble when looking for problems is that it is hard to weed out what we do and do not want to look at on our RV for any specific problems.
A good rabbit dog learns to chase only one rabbit at a time!
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Old 09-16-2020, 03:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry K. L View Post
My battery boost switch will not connect the house battery's to start the moter. I have a 2006 venture 33V . i am not sure whare to start looking.
Scroll to the last page: http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_152791.pdf
This is your starting point.
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Old 09-16-2020, 04:07 PM   #6
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Thanks for the drawing it will help the coach batters are charged . it is the chase battery i am going to take it in and get it checked out and charged . i do not get a click .when i push the switch.
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Old 09-17-2020, 12:10 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Larry K. L View Post
Thanks for the drawing it will help the coach batters are charged . it is the chase battery i am going to take it in and get it checked out and charged . i do not get a click .when i push the switch.
Been there. Done that. Had to replace the solenoid. Mine was a bare to get at. Hope yours goes easier.
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Old 09-17-2020, 12:34 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Larry K. L View Post
Thanks for the drawing it will help the coach batters are charged . it is the chase battery i am going to take it in and get it checked out and charged . i do not get a click .when i push the switch.
This is where using a meter to see what is up helps a lot as it can be a number of different things. IF we don't get a click at the solenoid when pushing the switch we can assume it is a bad solenoid but be totally wrong. There are times when the power from the switch doesn't get to the solenoid, either due to a bad switch, bad wire, or even lack of power getting to the switch. If we can look at the small lug where the control wire comes in and see power getting there but the solenoid not moving, then we might actually say the solenoid is bad but we can even test that with a meter as it is supposed to be a coil of wire from the small lug to where it comes out of the solenoid to ground! But if the ground is corroded, we may throw out a good solenoid and when we put the new one in we get better contact and never know we threw out a good part!
Solenoids are simple but they still have their own little tricks to play! The coil can be open or it can also be a good coil but a stuck movement in side, or they can also fool us by clicking as the parts with contacts close but then still not work because those contacts are corroded and don't make contact even though they slam together! As we connect the start and coach batteries together there is a difference in potential so arcing and burning contacts is pretty common but not the only thing that can go wrong.
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