Automatic power transfer switch doesn’t transfer to gennerator

[trucks38]

hi all im new to the winne motor home world we have a 2000 chieftain 35ft 2 slides with a auto power transfer switch ps245l 30amp i under stand they dont make this switch any more anyone out there know what the replacement is.
also there are 2 extra 12 gauge wires connected to the switch one goes to the main harness to bus and the other is connected to the generator side what do they power . i for got to mention my generator is putting out 120 volts to the switch please help thanks in advance

[Morich]

Finding the right info can be a big start! I do not know what the extra wires would be but this is a link to what I believe is the wiring schematic for the 110 on your RV. Perhaps a way to sort what was factory fresh and what might have been added?
Five pages to sort which options you may/may not have:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...000/133884.pdf

A point on factory wiring is the labels they use and the wire ID chart. If those spare wires have a code stamped on the sides, maybe looking them up on this chart would be good for a "from" and "to" idea?

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

[imnprsd]

OP: Are you sure you only have 30A service and not 50A?

Should be pretty obvious by looking at the shore power plug.

What type of generator do you have?

[Jim_HiTek]

The transfer switch is a common RV part and doesn't require an exact replacement. You can use any device that will fit in the space or in a new space you make for it if you are a DIY'er. Just check eBay or Amazon or just google 'Transfer Switch'.

You do need to know what amperage your RV uses though. Can't miss it as imnprsd said above, just looking at the end of the umbilical cord. 4-terminals = 50 amp, 3-terminals = 30 amp.

[Morich]

Whether 30 or 50 depends on options as both are shown on the drawings.

[trucks38]

yes its a 30amp system i have to stay with one repair at a time today r ripped all the carpet also the camper is parked on a hill so i wont even run gen i have to look at the wires closer and follow the advice every one gave me ill get back to yoi all in a couple of days

[Morich]

Small point if trying to read the snips above, try clicking on them to bring them up much better to read if on computer.

One thing at a time? Very good plan!!!!

[Morich]

A bit more of the story on the drawing may help once you get back to that part. On the 30 amp the cord feeds power to transfer switch which should feed to power center as I marked, then that power goes through the main breakers and breaks down to feed the output breakers for the whole coach as I've marked in and out.
Click this snip to get a better view?

One job at a time? VERY good plan!!!

[trucks38]

I hope you an see theses pic this is what my power switch looks like and it all looks factory as you. An see it just not 9 wires coach gen and power cord

[Morich]

That looks very much like original except that the red and black are reversed and there appears to be more wire than new and I would expect there is some form of surge protection has been added at the top lugs.

Many Rv in the 2000 date range did not come with surge protection and many have added it, so that is still an open question as we don't get wiring for added! But the overall job looks good and meets what the drawing shows except the red and black colors are reversed but generally that is not problem as they are both hot wires.

This is a good time to take a screwdriver and when unplugged and no generator running, tighten all those screw points about as tight as you can as they do tend to get loose over time and we often see reports that the switch has failed due to the wire loose causing high resistance and the heat then melts something! Just a good idea to keep them tight.

Counting from the left at the lugs, the first four are incoming from the genset, the next two are incoming from the cord and then the rest are outgoing to the AC and load center. So if one put a meter, one probe on any of the wires I marked as green and the other end to the hot sides marked in blue, you should see 110 from genset when running, yellow is from cord plugged in and then all the red should be 110 whether from genset or cord as they are the output side going to the load center. If you get 110 at all the red marks, things at the switch appear to be working right?

I'm not sure about the wires on the upper lugs that I am guessing go to the a surge protector as there are more than I might have expected. But I don't have a surge protector on my RV and have not really studied the wiring for all the different types, so I'm not at all sure on that and would say it looks like they a did a good job and would not worry the issue if the rest works. In other words, ---you've not been hammered!

I'm not spotting the two extra 12 gauge you mention. Or is it the black wire right where I drew the yellow arrow and the white running across? Those would seem to be something added but weird as they are tied to the cord and go to something like an added outlet that will only work on shore power and not genset. I normally would have expected to wire it on one of the lugs at the load center to use the breaker there and certainly would have wired to work off the output wiring so that it would work, genset or cord? Some looking for the other end may be needed to see what they serve. It may be something like an outlet to run a heater or battery charger only when stored???? A 110 circuit going somewhere!

[trucks38]

Yes that is the extra wire also I did test all wire and when plugged in I have 110 when gen is running I have 119volts put I I have no voyage to bus So im thinking what is I just put a 30 amp socket in and call it a day I have no problem plug-in. So what switch do I buy to replace this one since they don’t make it any more

[Morich]

I think this might be exactly where you need to go for good info as they are changing the ATS!

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3897788

Lots of good info and pictures and certain to be current on what's out there to replace.

[Morich]

This might be a time to debate what YOU feel is the cost versus benefit of an automatic transfer. I have never had one so my view is certain to be skewed but what I see is not enough to make me want to replace a switch for my personal use.
For future sales , yes an Rv that has one will be devalued quite a lot if one is not replaced.

But when I see the potential for trouble versus what value I see in having one, Iget less inclined to change one out.

To NOT replace one, it would mean placing a box to tie the cord to the interior loads full time and then another box with an outlet to access the output of the generator by plugging the cord in there.

Downside is if the power fails in the middle of the night, one might have to go out and move the plug from shore power to the generator output box! That can be an advantage if one has auto start equipment that needs the auto feature but on our use, we have never lost power while at a site that has ever effected us at all. No pets on board is one thing that makes power loss less of a problem.

But on the benefit side, I can actually say that I feel like my "tranfer" is very reliable as long as I'm still moving! And I do work real cheap, too!

[imnprsd]

I can't tell if you have 30A or 50A service? ...I'm guessing it is 50A.

If you have 30A you can use almost any ATS on the market.

To know for sure, just look at the end of your power cord and post a picture if you are not sure what to look for. Then we will tell you what you have.

Also, if you have a Onan 7500 or 8000 model generator you need a more robust 70A neutral capable ATS... like the Parallax ATS-501 or ATS-503.

Note: Your Old Todd Engineering ATS is also made by WFCO and is sold under other names like Lyght #LPT50BDR. And if you have 30A you an use these newer versions you can buy on Amazon in the $150 range, but I don't recommend these new versions, which use newer and cheaper relays, and don't support 70A neutral generators like the Onan 7500/8000 need.

Also, if you are capable, you can repair your old ATS using Deltrol Control 8-pin heavy duty relays, but these will cost you $120 on Ebay.

The best product replacement would be the Parallax ATS-5070, but Parallax cost reduced this ATS and has not sold it since ~2012, which is too bad, because this is the best ATS ever made for RV 50A service when the RV has an Onan 7500/8000 generator.

[trucks38]

I am positive I have a 30amp system one I have a 30amp plug and the ats cover also says 30 amp. I also have a oanan 7000 witch also has issues it will start up and run for 5-10 mins then shut off and won’t restart unless I hold the start switch down. When the gen is running it dose put out 119 bolts I’ve read that the gen may be shutting down because it’s not seeing a load. Any way I need to get past the ats first. I really appreciate all the time you are spending with me on this matter.

[Morich]

A small point to question on the gen shutting down is the fuel as I don't see a problem with shutting down due to no load. However, they are often set to not allow you to run the RV out of gas by running the genset as they stop using fuel at a little less than a 1/4 tank, so check the factor?
Or it might also be a fuel filter stopping good fuel flow????

[imnprsd]

trucks38: Why does your 30A service have 2 hot leads? Is this normal for 30A service? IDK.

Can you post a picture of your power cord, just to be absolutely sure?

Generator Topics

If you have an Onan generator and it starts, but will not keep running, maybe your generator temperature sender has a small bit of corrosion growing?

This corrosion will cause a slight deformation in the electrode. This deformation will grow and over 1-2 years time could create a hole that will eventually short the sender out... and that is why your generator is trying to shut down.

(Just a guess.)

[trucks38]

Here is the pic of the cord and your rite I miss read the cover on the switch it Ali’s a 50amp switch I would love to call you and speak to you instead of texting back and forth if you like to call me my number is 631 -255-4536

[emiddleb]

Just guessing here, but some of the 50/30 confusion may be that for this year/model RV, the brochure says that 30 amp was standard, but there was an option for 50 amp. Winnebago manufacturing may have done some prep work for both levels of power, then the final build completion determines what parts are used (and if they charge for the extra power option.)

[imnprsd]

OP: That's a 30A power cord just like you thought.

I only questioned it because your ATS has so many black wires.

So you have 30A service. And don't let this step slow you down from fixing this issue DIY. Just double-check you don't have AC plugged in and your Inverter is turned OFF and your BDS solenoid is turned off when you work on you power grid.

Also, if you have 50A service you will have a pair of 50A circuit breakers in you main panel. And 30A service would not have 50A breakers.

Here's a diagram of 30A and 50A service plug. Also, it is common for the red wire to be L1 and the black wire to be L2, but in older coaches anything is possible.

And in your coach you have a serge protector installed.

Note: You can buy a cheaper ATS on Amazon for $135 now that you know you have 30A service -- providing your Onan is a 7000 model does not need a 70A neutral (which is to say each of those white generator wires are 35A each). So check your Onan spec.

The reason for my recommendations is this: Most of the 50A ATS boxes you purchase today no longer use 8-Pin Heavy Duty 50A relays... even though they are designed for 50A service.

Why?

Because Onan quit making the 7500/8000 series generators that put out 63A.

What you should take away from this discussion is this: 50A service means you have L1 & L2 wires (red & black respectively) come in from the power pole at 100A each, but the shore power CB is protected by a 50A breaker; and inside your RV your main panel has a 50A breaker and smaller breaker for each load.

...but that does not mean your newer ATS can or needs to handle 50A at the relay. It should, and it once could, but no longer thanks to cost reductions by the ATS manufactures.

So if you have 30A service, you can buy either a 30A or 50A service ATS box. Most of the time, it will depend on how many terminal connections you need. So make sure you buy a box that will accommodate all your wires.

Now, I think everything I said above is correct. I'm not an expert on this subject. So hopefully one of the more senior members will correct me if I overstepped.

Also, I appreciate you posting your phone number, but I would rather you put your questions in writing so other people can follow and learn how to DIY.

As you learn more, step-by-step, it will get easier and make more sense. Just be patient. Double-check your work. And always ask before you assume.