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Old 06-03-2017, 11:21 AM   #1
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99 Winnebago Adventurer Hydraulics issue

First off it is not the springs and the Hydraulic is not bent..


HWH system

1 leveler will not come back up when it goes down... It is not releasing the fluid back into the tank ...

Any ideas? Got to be some kind of valve that opens
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Old 06-03-2017, 11:32 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenchicken View Post
First off it is not the springs and the Hydraulic is not bent..


HWH system

1 leveler will not come back up when it goes down... It is not releasing the fluid back into the tank ...

Any ideas? Got to be some kind of valve that opens
So you're positive it's not releasing the fluid back to the tank?

You disconnected or loosened the fitting on the hose at the top of the ram and the ram retracted?

Have you used a shovel or 2x4 to try and pry up and assist the ram back up?

If yes to all of these questions I would look toward the solenoid that controls flow to and from that ram. Check to make sure the solenoid wires are properly connected. Use a volt meter and compare the bad acting solenoid to the others that are working correctly.

There are a few guys here on the forum who are HWH service techs and they may be able to help you troubleshoot the solenoid if it turns out to be the issue.
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Old 06-03-2017, 01:08 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by AKIQPilot View Post
So you're positive it's not releasing the fluid back to the tank?

You disconnected or loosened the fitting on the hose at the top of the ram and the ram retracted?

Have you used a shovel or 2x4 to try and pry up and assist the ram back up?

If yes to all of these questions I would look toward the solenoid that controls flow to and from that ram. Check to make sure the solenoid wires are properly connected. Use a volt meter and compare the bad acting solenoid to the others that are working correctly.

There are a few guys here on the forum who are HWH service techs and they may be able to help you troubleshoot the solenoid if it turns out to be the issue.
Quote:
So you're positive it's not releasing the fluid back to the tank?
Yes
Quote:
You disconnected or loosened the fitting on the hose at the top of the ram and the ram retracted?
With a floor jack but it was not as easy as it should have retracted

Quote:
Have you used a shovel or 2x4 to try and pry up and assist the ram back up?
Floor jack and it wasn't easy then and this is where it could be a bent issue though it does not appear to be and the shaft is clean and smooth


Thanks
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Old 06-03-2017, 01:27 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by greenchicken View Post
Yes
With a floor jack but it was not as easy as it should have retracted

Floor jack and it wasn't easy then and this is where it could be a bent issue though it does not appear to be and the shaft is clean and smooth


Thanks
Ok so if you disconnected the hydraulic fitting at the top of the ram and it still took a floor jack to get the ram to retract then your problems are not likely with the pump or solenoid. It sounds to me like your ram needs to be rebuilt.

I have a 2002 Suncruiser with the HWH system and my left rear jack is also very difficult to get to retract and it's gotten much worse over the last 6 months. On multiple occasions I cleaned and lubricated the ram. I attempted to get any dirt built up in the lip seal out but there was no dirt in my lip seals that I could detect. I tried wd40, silicone spray, Aerokroil, Dextron 3 on a rag. Nothing improved the performance of the jack. A couple of weeks back I was determined to find the problem and fix it.

First I ran the ram down on a floor jack and used the jack to compress the ram. The ram was very stiff and slow to retract.

Next I removed the hydraulic fitting cap at the top of the ram to see if the ram would retract on it's own. Nope, still didn't move upward on it's own.

Next I put the jack under the ram and removed the cap again and attempted to get the jack to retract and found the ram was just as difficult to push up with the jack and hydraulic cap off as with the cap in place and the fluid going back to the reservoir.

My ram is not bent either. I used a machinists straight edge to check the ram from every angle. No bend what so ever.

My ram needs to be removed and serviced. This next week I am going to try to get the parts to service the ram then pull it off and rebuild it. I will post a thread on my progress when I get it all repaired. IF for some strange reason I can't repair it myself I will likely take it to a local hydraulic shop or send it off and have it repaired by an HWH service center.

Hope this helps
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Old 06-03-2017, 02:14 PM   #5
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thats great info... let me know how it goes as that sounds exactly like my problem
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Old 06-04-2017, 05:50 AM   #6
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Interesting my Left Rear is about the same. It will retract but I need to put a bottle jack under it when i get to the campground. I have sprayed it with WD40 and it is a bit better but still has issues. I am hoping to get thru the summer season then will remove it this winter to rebuild or just replace.
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Old 06-04-2017, 05:57 AM   #7
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Interesting my Left Rear is about the same. It will retract but I need to put a bottle jack under it when i get to the campground. I have sprayed it with WD40 and it is a bit better but still has issues. I am hoping to get thru the summer season then will remove it this winter to rebuild or just replace.
if its easy to get up with the bottle jack I would suggest either putting new springs or double springs on it and see if that retracts it
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:32 AM   #8
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As mentioned your sticking jack(s) should be either replaced or rebuilt. This is a welded unit that must be cut apart to be rebuilt. This isn't something normally done outside a hydraulic shop. Once new seals and scrapers are installed the cap must be rewelded to the body. This is generally done by a robot to insure 100% penetration and a full seam leak free weld. Remember it's operating in the 1,500 to 2,500 psi range.


Personally I would recommend replacing ALL sticking jacks with new ones. They can be ordered from HWH for nearly the same cost as rebuilding them. The sooner this is done the better.


By waiting you may be causing more damage and more expense. When the system is put in the store mode a solenoid is energized for each jack. The solenoid remains energized (by means of a magnetic coil) until a switch at the top of the cylinder is opened by the ram touching it. The solenoid is normally activated for no more than 30 seconds. The longer it remains energized the hotter it gets. Eventually it will overheat and fail. Each solenoid costs between $110.00 and $250.00 depending on the style and place of purchase.
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:49 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Hikerdogs View Post
As mentioned your sticking jack(s) should be either replaced or rebuilt. This is a welded unit that must be cut apart to be rebuilt. This isn't something normally done outside a hydraulic shop. Once new seals and scrapers are installed the cap must be rewelded to the body. This is generally done by a robot to insure 100% penetration and a full seam leak free weld. Remember it's operating in the 1,500 to 2,500 psi range.


Personally I would recommend replacing ALL sticking jacks with new ones. They can be ordered from HWH for nearly the same cost as rebuilding them. The sooner this is done the better.


By waiting you may be causing more damage and more expense. When the system is put in the store mode a solenoid is energized for each jack. The solenoid remains energized (by means of a magnetic coil) until a switch at the top of the cylinder is opened by the ram touching it. The solenoid is normally activated for no more than 30 seconds. The longer it remains energized the hotter it gets. Eventually it will overheat and fail. Each solenoid costs between $110.00 and $250.00 depending on the style and place of purchase.
I just don't use the back ones right now, no issues
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Old 06-04-2017, 11:16 AM   #10
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any time you have to apply more than minimal force to get a cylinder to retract, the cylinder had to be replaced or rebuilt. if you can push it up by hand, springs will help. but in your case, thats not the cure.
send an email to [email protected]. include the same info as your car dealer requires.
name, address, phone number, vin year brand and model. this is to register the warranty on your repaired cylinder. model number is a big help.
hwh will issue a rga number for tracking the part. send it in, and it takes about three weeks to get it back. maybe sooner.
the only price they will quote is for a reman cylinder. thats because they dont know whats wrong yours. its usually far less than that. they replace the defective parts, test it, and give you a one year warranty on it.
reman and new parts are available on the internet from other sources. ask for the warranty.
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