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Old 04-15-2017, 09:57 PM   #1
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2017 Vista 29 VE water heater won't heat water

We have a new Winnebago Vista 29VE and the first time we tried to use it the water heater won't heat the water. The gas will light and it will run for a few minutes but then it goes off. Does anyone else have an issue with this? The water heater is a suburban.
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Old 04-15-2017, 10:22 PM   #2
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Is the heater tank full of water? Was all or most of the air purged out of it?
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Old 04-15-2017, 11:10 PM   #3
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A belated , Welcome to the forum

First post I see .
Arch , has asked the question about the most obvious cause , water heater not full , due to , possible defective by-pass valves , not allowing it to fill.
The short cycle of the heater may be due to the thermal limit switch detecting and overheated tank, due to the lack of water.
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Old 04-16-2017, 08:44 AM   #4
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Bypass valve is on the back of the heater, in side the coach.
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Old 04-16-2017, 09:17 AM   #5
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Thanks for the reply. Yes, the tank is full. We live at 8500 feet and after looking at the Suburban website it indicates that above 4500 feet we need to change out the orifice to derate it. Then once we get down to 4500 or below have it switched out again. The info says it has to be done by a RV dealer or the gas company. Have you heard of this happening? We bought this brand new and plan to travel all around the US. I hate to think we will have to switch this out all the time.
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Old 04-16-2017, 09:56 AM   #6
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Is your water heater a gas /electric model ?
Are you in a park where you can use the heater on electric ?
You would need a min. of 30 amp service.

Myself , I would consider the orifice ( jet ) change a five min. job ; but if you can use the electric side while you're at altitude , it would save the hassle of buying the jet , and changing it when you travel.
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Old 04-16-2017, 11:31 AM   #7
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It is a gas model only. Is the change out of the orifice something that has to be done by a dealer or could it be done by my husband? We bought the unit in November but due to several issues this is the first weekend we have been able to use the motorhome. Luckily we are at a place with showers in Woodland Park, CO 8600 feet. Is the altitude thing something that you have heard about thought right? We have owned 5 or 6 other Rv's (even an older Winnebago) and have never had this issue. They had Atwood water heaters though. (not sure what the older winnie had in it. Thanks for everyones help.
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:00 PM   #8
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I have new Itasca spirit 31G. Our suburban gas electric wont maintain flame and pilot out error light stays on. I checked obvious, tank full, igniter, cleaned out mixer orifice and it still wont stay on. Fortunately it heats using electric also. I'm taking in for rv service this week. Hope you can get yours fixed, I'm thinking it may be TC or control circuit. We have had alot of issues, now we noticed a water drip at windshield metal roof interface, during a hard rain.
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Debco70hotma View Post
Thanks for the reply. Yes, the tank is full. We live at 8500 feet and after looking at the Suburban website it indicates that above 4500 feet we need to change out the orifice to derate it. Then once we get down to 4500 or below have it switched out again. The info says it has to be done by a RV dealer or the gas company. Have you heard of this happening? We bought this brand new and plan to travel all around the US. I hate to think we will have to switch this out all the time.
When we are at altitude I've found that opening the water heater door to allow more air/oxygen, the water heater will operate.

Try it as it cost no money.

Good luck.
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:03 AM   #10
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holes

Quote:
Originally Posted by charles tuit View Post
When we are at altitude I've found that opening the water heater door to allow more air/oxygen, the water heater will operate.

Try it as it cost no money.

Good luck.
I drilled 8 1/4" holes in the bottom lip of my access door to allow more air to enter for combustion about 7 years ago while in Nevada. My Atwood wh is still working well near sea level also.
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:47 AM   #11
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Main flame lighting off and then goin gout is due to lack of 'Flame Proving'

Main flame generates a milivolt signal that is used to prove main flame lit so circuit board will continue to hold 12V DC on gas control solenoid until t-stat opens shutting down heat cycle.

Milivolt signal is generated by 'flame ionization/rectification'

Spark electrode is used as return path for milivolt signal
Dirty/sooted up...no signal
Wrong spark gap (1/8")...no signal
Not engulfed in main flame....no signal
Loose/dirty/corroded high tension wire connection....no signal
Cracked ceramic insulator......signal goes to ground
Assembly mounting screw loose/corroded....no grounding for spark electrode ...no signal

YES .......
Some LP appliances do have issues at higher altitudes due to thinner air.
Suburban WHs seem to have the most because they do not have an 'air shutter' so you can adjust air/fuel ratio.
Suburban uses a metered orifice matched to the wide open air flow on burner tube.

You CAN buy and use a different burner tube assembly to use at high altitudes if necessary. Part #010844 (it is a burner tube for 3 & 4 gallon version with different orifice -----orifices are part of burner tube. Easy swap ---one to other.
3 & 4 gallon use smaller orifice---less fuel (9000 btu burner)
6, 10,12 gallon use larger orifices...more fuel (12000 btu burner)


Suburban Water Heater 010844 Burner Assembly with High Altitude Orifice - Parts & Accessories - RV Water Heaters - RV Appliances


But before buying a smaller orificed burner tube check out the spark electrode items I listed

And having access panel open can help with amount of air getting to burner tube.
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