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07-13-2021, 03:53 PM
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#1
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2016 Itasca Sunova 35G
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 48
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2016 35G-How do I remove this body part?
Hi,
Motorhome has been in storage for a while and just brought it home for some repairs before taking it on a short trip.
I posted before about the front clip or nose of the coach coming loose and I am about to attempt the fix that was discussed with the 3M Fast Cure 5200 adhesive sealant.
I figured out how to disconnect the adjacent panels that are hinged in order to get access. I would like to remove a moulding that runs vertically from the bottom of the windshield to the where the panels are hinged. (See attached photos). You can see the white line on the front of the moulding where the nose has slid out about 1/4". I took the four screws out thinking it would just come off, but it is still pretty well attached. Not sure if it is glue or some other kind of mechanical fastener holding it in place. So thought I would come here to see if anyone else has removed this moulding.
Thanks!
Carl
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07-13-2021, 04:59 PM
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#2
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
Posts: 7,501
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They give us some really nice tools to sort how things are put together-----on some points and this seems like a good place to look at the "parts catalog" as it does seem to indicate the size and shape of what you have.
This is a snip of part of the interactive catalog where we can turn things all around and get an idea of what we might have on our specific RV.
Parts start here:
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
And the body front section is here, if you have the model with serial number with the 7th number of "1".
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/2015/17795001.htm
If this is the correct for your serial number, it seems to show almost the entire front as a solid item???
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
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07-14-2021, 07:13 AM
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#3
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2016 Itasca Sunova 35G
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 48
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Below is the actual front of mine. Serial number is 70D78U2 for the parts catalogue. It's nice to see the blow up, but it still doesn't tell me how to remove the strip. I tried to pry it loose thinking its glued, and it didn't budge. Don't want to damage trying to remove it the wrong way. Maybe glued on in addition to the four screws?
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07-14-2021, 08:16 AM
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#4
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
Posts: 7,501
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Yes, I see the difference in the two headlights and should have noted which you had.
But getting the strip off, I would guess that there is some form of adhesive under it, as a sealer for the screwholes if nothing else.
So how to get it off?
My suggestion would be to try forcing something like a thing putty knife under the trim at various spots and trying to slide it up and down to cut the adhesive. This would be something where I would want to have some thin item between the putty knife and the main body to avoid scratching. Maybe something this but firm like a cereal box cardboard to kind of "cushion" the edge?
My new favorite tool might be one to consider and it would speed the process a lot. I'm loving an oscillating tool like this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tou...Grit/730516237
I'm finding tons of uses for it and cutting away old caulk is one where I love the ease of using a flat blade to work along the RV without gouging dips in the materials. The thing I really like is that it is so controllable for scraping or cutting without the hazards of putty knives which tend to require more force and get out of control really easy. More a few thousand tiny taps which gets it done rather than one big heavy push?
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
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07-14-2021, 09:25 AM
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#5
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 3,583
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I'd call Winnnebago.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Workhorse Chassis
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07-14-2021, 09:26 AM
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#6
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2016 Itasca Sunova 35G
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 48
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Thanks Richard,
I have some plastic trim removal tools. Decide to try and do some more prying and with a little effort got it to release. There is some caulk behind it that seals the side panel to the frame and it was adhered to that.
Thanks for your suggestions
Carl
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07-14-2021, 09:35 AM
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#7
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
Posts: 7,501
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Oh yes! Sounds like a winner to have the "real" tools for the job!
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
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07-18-2021, 05:04 PM
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#8
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 31
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Replacing side molding
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07-18-2021, 05:11 PM
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#9
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 31
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Also, as a side note, I had to purchase the molding in a 9’ section from Winnebago parts, and will have to get it painted to match the old piece by a body shop, since I don’t do that sort of thing.
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07-19-2021, 10:16 AM
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#10
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 245
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Is the main point to get rid of the white line? If it was me, I'd use touch up paint or just leave it alone. If it concerns you just thin it a little and you wont get a gloppy look. mask it off too.
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07-20-2021, 01:58 PM
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#11
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2016 Itasca Sunova 35G
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 48
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Yours is a lot different than mine. My moulding was held on with just 4 screws. There was some caulk behind it that made it a little harder to pry off, but I was able to do it. Worked out pretty good.
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07-20-2021, 02:05 PM
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#12
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2016 Itasca Sunova 35G
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 48
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The main point wasn't the white line. Pretty much the whole front end is glued on. Was concerned about it loosening up more.
When I got the moulding off on the right side I could see that all the adhesive thy had used had broken loose and nothing really was fastening the front end on that side to the coaches framework. The lower portion of the left side was only loose on the lower section.
I scraped as much of the old adhesive off, re-glued with the 3M adhesive and also added some 6-32 stainless steel screws to make sure it wouldn't release again. Worked out real well.
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