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Old 05-13-2014, 11:04 AM   #21
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I need to get behind the TV in my 2012 Ellipse 42QD. Anyone know how to get the TV off the mount? Or do I have to take the mount off the wall? The screws on the bottom of the mount are hard to get to. Thanks.
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:44 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by fla tom View Post
We have 3 ac( 13.5btu ) we had three on our 40' unit also ( close to the same color) the 40" stayed cool (it had smaller/shorter front cap) There is no insulation in or 42 qd front cap or in our old 40u front cap. There was a noticeable Cooling difference between the two coaches same weekend same site
Tom, I did some research on the AC units because of the wind noise from them. I did see where your '13 coach has Colman units that are less efficient than in your '11. Your new units, I believe, are putting out 300cfm. The '11 puts out 310cfm. They also changed the freon and some components. I wish I had the link handy for you.

I hope you are cooling thing off early in the day. In my '05 Vectra (basement air) I had to chill the coach down early or it would never recover later in the day. I could not wait for the inside temp to reach 75* if the day temp was to be over 90*. It would never be cool enough.

I am pleased to hear that your '11 Meridian did well in the warm weather. I wonder if I have yours? We bought it in Ft Myers last May. We are loving the rig and it is perfect in every way for our lifestyle.

Oh. About the wind noise? I think it is simply something I have to live with. Too much air being forced into too small a duct.

One other thought for you. Have you pulled the AC covers and cleaned the coils and straightened the fins? This will defiantly help.

Hope you can find a reasonable solution.

Rick Y
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:49 PM   #23
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Has anyone had issues with the new (2011-2013) tour /ellipse ac units not keeping the front of the coach cool? We have awnings out night shades closed partial shade. front is 20-25 deg warmer than the back. ceiling of front cap registers 100 deg with infrared thermometer. mid to upper 80,s outside(not much cooler inside) There is 25 deg diff between intake and discharge vents. This unit is close to unusable for half the year here in Florida. Our last unit 2011 meridian 40u worked great ,shades open or not (week we picked up the new unit we spent one n night /day in the meridian the next in the Ellipse same site same weather) The dealers said it is working fine,I need help.
Hi fla tom
The return air could be mixing with the conditioned air under the unit before going into the coach due to an improper placement of a seal under the ac unit. This would be causing the units to over work uderperform.

Attached Thumbnails

The first pic here is how all 3 roof ac's come on the 2013 Tour/Ellipse and are set up to go on a non ducted rig. The second pic shows the unit with aadded seal in the middle to separate the return air from the conditioned air for a ducted system. I had a lot of ac drainage down the side of the coach and could not understand why. My drains were not clogged. The units were sweating on the outside and running off the roof. Turns out that all three units when the added seal was installed it was too far forward and not sealing. On the picture above notice how far the black middle seal is, it is well into the return duct when lowered down. Took the coach to the beach this week end and what a difference! No water down the side and cooled well even without a window shade. You might want to have them checked.
Jesse
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Old 05-18-2014, 07:39 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Jbmsr View Post
Hi fla tom
The return air could be mixing with the conditioned air under the unit before going into the coach due to an improper placement of a seal under the ac unit. This would be causing the units to over work uderperform.

Attached Thumbnails

The first pic here is how all 3 roof ac's come on the 2013 Tour/Ellipse and are set up to go on a non ducted rig. The second pic shows the unit with aadded seal in the middle to separate the return air from the conditioned air for a ducted system. I had a lot of ac drainage down the side of the coach and could not understand why. My drains were not clogged. The units were sweating on the outside and running off the roof. Turns out that all three units when the added seal was installed it was too far forward and not sealing. On the picture above notice how far the black middle seal is, it is well into the return duct when lowered down. Took the coach to the beach this week end and what a difference! No water down the side and cooled well even without a window shade. You might want to have them checked.
Jesse
Attached Thumbnails
Your pictures are clear and easy to follow. I plan on pulling my units for a general inspection of the seals and placement over the ducts. I'll be looking for this.

Rick Y
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Old 05-18-2014, 08:21 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post

Your pictures are clear and easy to follow. I plan on pulling my units for a general inspection of the seals and placement over the ducts. I'll be looking for this.

Rick Y
Thanks Rick
Paying it forward. I have gotten a lot of help on this forum.

It is easy to check if the seal is in place or not without removing the unit. Removing 4 philips screws takes the black plastic cover off. Removing 4-10mm nuts will allow you to remove the inner cover. Stick your phone in the return port and take a picture with your flash on. If the seal is not in place you will see the flash in the other port. At this point if you need to replace the or relocate the seal. Remove 4- 8mm 3" screws and lift the ac up to gain access. The rectangular seal under the ac unit is stuck to the bottom of the unit and is reusable. Reinstall in reverse order. Tools and seal strip in hand it is a 15 minute job for each ac.

Jesse
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Old 05-18-2014, 11:22 AM   #26
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If possible when in sunny and warm climates, always park with your windshield facing north.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:08 AM   #27
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If possible when in sunny and warm climates, always park with your windshield facing north.
True for certain. But the key words here are "IF possible...." Like avoiding parking under pine trees, many times it can't be avoided where you are. A big sun blanket in the windshield is the other choice. Tacky but works.
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Old 05-28-2014, 09:10 AM   #28
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2013 Tour front ac removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Your pictures are clear and easy to follow. I plan on pulling my units for a general inspection of the seals and placement over the ducts. I'll be looking for this.

Rick Y
When you do this might help.

Be safe!

Jesse



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Old 05-29-2014, 10:05 AM   #29
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Thanks Jesse. I'll have my son helping me. My units are the 49000 series. In the installation manual it shows the seal as perimeter only. No seal between the chambers.

I pulled the covers off the units yesterday for general inspection. I removed the rectangular cover behind the compressor location to inspect. I found all of the control board wires were located in the air pathway. I relocated them over the control board, next to the side wall. The cover now holds them in place. I did notice the sound of the airflow has changed a bit for the better.

As far as the seal is concerned, I don't know if there is much air exchange there. I wonder if a good duct tape around the return hole would be sufficient. This is a new thought at this moment.

Jessy, we have been talking about lighting issues on "2014 Journey roof top A/C noise" A bit off topic but it is cooling efficiency related. You might take a peak at what we have been talking about.

Happy trails and thanks again for all your help.

Rick
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:27 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Thanks Jesse. I'll have my son helping me. My units are the 49000 series. In the installation manual it shows the seal as perimeter only. No seal between the chambers. I pulled the covers off the units yesterday for general inspection. I removed the rectangular cover behind the compressor location to inspect. I found all of the control board wires were located in the air pathway. I relocated them over the control board, next to the side wall. The cover now holds them in place. I did notice the sound of the airflow has changed a bit for the better. As far as the seal is concerned, I don't know if there is much air exchange there. I wonder if a good duct tape around the return hole would be sufficient. This is a new thought at this moment. Jessy, we have been talking about lighting issues on "2014 Journey roof top A/C noise" A bit off topic but it is cooling efficiency related. You might take a peak at what we have been talking about. Happy trails and thanks again for all your help. Rick
Hi Rick
Your 40U is a ducted system and a very good looking coach I might add. The manual you are looking at is showing you the unit as it comes new to work on a non ducted system. Sorry I wouldn't recommend duct tape. I did like reading that you used the foil tape to seal the system. The wires on the air flow area was not good. I can see how it could make a bit if a difference. I have been reading about the noise and believe it might be the low insulated cover that is magnifying the noise. Beat on it and it sounds like a base drum. I like the torque fan blade that is on the unit. The ac noise issue is on my list of things to look into.
Thanks

Jesse
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Old 05-30-2014, 07:46 AM   #31
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Hi Rick
Your 40U is a ducted system and a very good looking coach I might add. The manual you are looking at is showing you the unit as it comes new to work on a non ducted system. Sorry I wouldn't recommend duct tape. I did like reading that you used the foil tape to seal the system. The wires on the air flow area was not good. I can see how it could make a bit if a difference. I have been reading about the noise and believe it might be the low insulated cover that is magnifying the noise. Beat on it and it sounds like a base drum. I like the torque fan blade that is on the unit. The ac noise issue is on my list of things to look into.
Thanks

Jesse
Te video of pulling the unit is great help. I don't think it will be a problem on a clean roof. At the moment we are parked under pine trees. Clean is not an option. I noticed in the video the wires in the same condition as I found. Makes no sense to me that the Winnebago would not see a problem with this. The tape on the seams was Mylar, not aluminum like I found there. Please tell me why not aluminum? I think the video was of the newer unit. I noticed that the fan is much smaller than on my unit. I wonder if it runs at a higher rpm to move the air better through that big coil?

Jesse, I have a problem with one of my units. When power is on and nothing is running, one of the fans turns slowly backwards. What is your take on this? I didn't take the time to measure any voltages when I was up there.

About the 40U? Great for full-timers. Lots of storage in and under and the general layout is very comfortable. The bathrooms are functional, not spacious and a big person would be challenged in the "reading room", but the rest of the coach is wonderful. This is the best coach I have ever owned.
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Old 05-31-2014, 01:12 PM   #32
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Te video of pulling the unit is great help. I don't think it will be a problem on a clean roof. At the moment we are parked under pine trees. Clean is not an option. I noticed in the video the wires in the same condition as I found. Makes no sense to me that the Winnebago would not see a problem with this. The tape on the seams was Mylar, not aluminum like I found there. Please tell me why not aluminum? I think the video was of the newer unit. I noticed that the fan is much smaller than on my unit. I wonder if it runs at a higher rpm to move the air better through that big coil? Jesse, I have a problem with one of my units. When power is on and nothing is running, one of the fans turns slowly backwards. What is your take on this? I didn't take the time to measure any voltages when I was up there. About the 40U? Great for full-timers. Lots of storage in and under and the general layout is very comfortable. The bathrooms are functional, not spacious and a big person would be challenged in the "reading room", but the rest of the coach is wonderful. This is the best coach I have ever owned.
Thanks Rick I hoped it would help someone. Working around pine needles would be difficult. I personally like to use the foil tape to seal possible air leaks around the inner cover. I do believe that the idea was to use a multi blade fan at a higher rpm to cool better. It does make sense that the wires and drain lines would restrict the air flow. I would call the ac manufacture about your fan running backwards. I a sure they can help. I looked at your coach on the Winnebago site to see if it was a ducted system and was very impressed!

Jesse
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