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Old 05-29-2013, 06:26 PM   #1
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2013 Adventurer Lug Nut Size

Does anyone know the size of the socket needed for the lug nuts on a 2013 Adventurer with 22.5" wheels? I'm guessing it's 33MM since the stud itself is 22MM x 1.5 according to the chassis manual. I measured the nut with a caliper at 1.302" which is 33.07MM.

Since the stud is metric I would think the nut would also be metric. I don’t think Ford would mix metric and SAE fastener sizes. However when I was looking at the specs for a spare rim I found some of the dimensions to be metric and others to be imperial. I just want to be sure before I make an order.
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:33 PM   #2
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Ours are 33mm and take 500 ft lbs of torque, but we have a Spartan chassis.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:00 PM   #3
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Hikerdog,
I'd bet dollars to donuts that yours are 33MM. If you have alloy wheels, and have to pull off all the lug nut covers, there should be a "33" stamped into each of those covers. But, that's only if you have them. But, if you don't have alloys, and have stainless steel wheel covers, then you'll have to determine just how that system comes off so you can get to the lug nuts. Now, a 1 5/16" American socket is darn close to the same size as a 33MM but, it's just a tad large.

Now, having lug nuts of that size, I'm assuming your torque on them would be very close to or, right at, 450 ft. lbs. Some are more. I don't know what you plan on in terms of tire/wheel removal but, If you plan on removing them and don't have a seriously large breaker bar and cheater, then you've got a couple of choices. I use what's called a "Torque Multiplier" that I got off ebay. But, I won't go into the detail unless you ask. Anyway, hope some of this info helped you.
Scott
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:02 AM   #4
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I do have a number of large sockets but they're all imperial sizes. I measured the 1 5/16 socket yesterday and it's actually 1.320. I thought it was just enough oversized that I might eventually round off the nuts or bust a knuckle when torqueing them down.

We do have alloy wheels. Unlike some others there's a center cap that covers all the lug nuts. The cap has simulated chrome nuts that cover the real ones. There are 2 real nuts to hold the cap in place. They are identified by slash marks. They have to be removed with a special wrench to remove the cap and access the real lug nuts. The lug nuts do take 450 ft. lbs. of torque so I'll have to break out the torque multiplier.

I just wanted to make sure 33MM was the correct size. Over the years I've seen some manufacturers make proprietary fasteners to discourage people from attempting to do things they shouldn't. They then make proprietary tools that sell for outrageous prices. So if you want to hurt yourself it won't be by accident, and it won't be cheap.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:03 AM   #5
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Hikerdogs,
I don't know what kind of torque multiplier you have but, the one I use, I got off ebay. It's a geared unit with what the manufacturer claims, a 78:1 ratio. I tested it and, well, it's closer to a 65:1 ratio. But, never the less, with it I can sit on my a.. and loosen those 450 lb. lug nuts, with one arm!

It takes me about 8 minutes to loosen all of them. Then, I have a cheap, 1/2" impact that I use to spin them off. That torque multiplier works fantastic. This is mine:


That tool is seriously deceiving. It you were to put the lug nuts back on with it, you could easily break the studs. So, for installation, I use a 3/4" torque wrench. And, yes, I know exactly what your covers on those alloy wheels look like and, how they function. I had some just exactly like them. Good luck. By the way, I don't know if you've handled those pretty heavy wheels and tires before but, I bought a cheap tool at one of the many cheap tool vendors at Quartzite a year ago and, it by far, has paid for itself, only $20.00, a zillion times over. It's tire/wheel dolly. Talk about making things easy. Wow, it's great.
Scott

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Old 05-30-2013, 11:34 AM   #6
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The style torque multiplier you have is primarily used for removing and installing wheels. The "support leg" rests against another lug nut in the bolt pattern. The style I have is more like a large ratchet. It has a long handle that can either rest against a support or on the ground. It has a female 3/4"square socket on the back side. You use a normal 3/4" drive ratchet to power the mechanism.

I used to own 2 commercial repair garages. One small one was mainly for passenger cars, but at the other larger one we dealt with evrything from over the road trucks to delivery trucks and even construction equipment from time to time. Over the years I would guess I've changed several hundred, or maybe even several thousand truck tires. I never counted. It was just part ofthe business.

When I sold the business I kept most of the hand tools, and a few of the smaller pieces of equipment. It's been a lot of years and things have changed considerably since then.

In my early days metric fasteners were just a novelty. "Real trucks" had fractional size fasteners, and most were pretty standardized. In later years you didn't know what you were going to get. As the US moved into the "world market" a lot of fasteners became metric. Each supplier decided whether they were going metric or staying with the fractional sizes. You could get a truck or car with fractional fittings on the engine and transmission, but metric fasteners on the suspension and interior.

There's still some crossover today, but by in large things have changed to metric. As I mentioned earlier there are some manufacturers who currently use both fractional and metric measurements on the same product. Accuride wheels for example use fractional measurements for the hub pilot hole, the center offset, the rim diameter, and the width. They use metric measurements for the bolt hole circle and the bolt hole diameters.
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:34 PM   #7
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Hikerdogs,
Roger that Sir, sounds like you got it all covered pretty well. Take care and be careful goofing around with those larger tires and wheels.
Scott
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