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Old 04-09-2015, 07:54 PM   #21
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I bought a used 2012 Vista 30T in 2013 w/3000 miles. Have added 5 Star Tuning & Safe-T-Plus, both worth the money.


The couch ( 2nd air bed) is too short for my 6 ft frame. So I pulled out the couch and added 2 folding lounge chairs ( like lazy-boy ) Their is only the 2 of us, so we didn't really need the extra bed.


We have only made one trip to FL in 2013-14, had open heart surgery in fall of 2014, so no winter trips.


GOOD LUCK, BOB
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:07 PM   #22
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Dezrtracr,

Before I put in the valve, I would lose 1/2 of my freshwater thru the overflow vent.
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Old 04-10-2015, 07:18 AM   #23
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OK, I'm a little confused about the freshwater overflow vent. We rarely fill the FW tank above 1/4-1/3 because so far we are always at CG's. That leads me to believe that's why we have never lost or seen any water leaking. I know the outside fill is located on the passenger side to the left of the entry door. We also can fill the FW tank from the CG hook up water hose. I'm assuming this is standard on most coaches these days. Is the FW tank overflow line inside the hook up compartment on the drivers side rear???

I guess the ATS (automatic transfer switch) was made a standard item sometime after your coach was made. Our 2014 unit came with it because we didn't add it and we have one.

When we hooked up with "ghutch" and his DW before we came back from FL he showed me a lot of MODS that he did. PM him and he can give you some ideas. Here's one that I'm going to add as well. The water compartment door in the right rear area is covered by the bedroom slide. That makes it difficult to hooking up water and electric. I've always tried to do that stuff before we put out the BR slide. He installed two air pistons which keeps the door open as you work. Currently I've got a stick that I use to keep it open while I work. That works but it can also get in the way.

Thanks, and keep coming up with the ideas.
TeJay
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:09 AM   #24
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Many thanks again to all! I will be curious on the water tank overflow issue on our 2012 when we get it and take a break-in run to make sure everything works. We do dry camp about 50% of the time and the last thing we would want is to be surprised by only half a tank of water in the desert.


Also has anyone with the spare tire ever tried to mount it under the coach in the rear. Our 04 Sightseer has the spare there but am unable to really see what the mount looks like. I would never take it down but good ole roadside assistance would if we had a spare. I don't have the 30T yet and looked under there but now real close. There was a metal floor under the coach but that probably isn't strong enough to hold a tire. Any thoughts/comments would be appreciated!


I did see what looked to be a steering stabilizer on the coach but not sure if Ford had any factory ones on the F-53. Also appeared to have a rear bar that did not appear to be factory. Will check it out when we get it. We drove it twice-once in wind and it felt about what I would expect but the coach was empty. All the suspension geometry discussions have left me confused as I am not real familiar with suspensions. Our Sightseer was comfortable driving after I had some worn front end parts replaced to correct excessive free play but it had quite a few after-market mods.
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:30 AM   #25
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The overflow tube is located on the drivers side. When I fill the tank from the gravity fill, the overflow will start to run water out. Shut the water hose off and the overflow appears to siphon until the water level drops about 1/2"-3/4" from the top of the tank. I've had it empty a lot of water if the coach was low on the driver's side. I think they changed the swing up door to a swing out door in 2015.

I have an Auto Transfer Switch on my 30T because I bought the All Weather Upgrade Option with the larger gen set and twin AC's/heat pumps.

On older 30T's the spare was mounted in the storage compartment located under the bed. There are some tire carrier units out there that connect to the rear hitch.
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Old 04-11-2015, 10:55 AM   #26
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I wonder if I can just mount the door using the current top hinge and make it a side hinge??? All the stuff should be there. It sure would make it a lot easier to access the compartment. I'm going to look at it.

As far as a spare. This is what I'd do. If I have a front flat I'd take a rear tire and put it on the front then drive to a repair place for a fix. If I had a rear tire I'd just take it off and proceed to a facility. Yes I realize there's extra weight put on the single tire. If one drives slow so heat does not build and not to far I believe you'd be OK.
The compartment under the bed is supposed to be for the spare. Just keep a used or new spare in there without the rim. It's out of the sun. You don't have the weight of the rim so you can safely lift it in and our without doing any damage to the area. I'm not weak but I can't lift a spare tire and rim into that compartment without some help.

I'm also going to find the over flow now that I know where to look. I

'm also going to try and post some pictures of some of the MODS that I've done. That will be coming shortly.

Thanks for the info,
TeJay
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Old 04-11-2015, 01:20 PM   #27
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The water compartment door in the right rear area is covered by the bedroom slide. That makes it difficult to hooking up water and electric. I've always tried to do that stuff before we put out the BR slide. He installed two air pistons which keeps the door open as you work. Currently I've got a stick that I use to keep it open while I work. That works but it can also get in the way.
TeJay
The water compartment door on our 2013 30T has a 1/4 inch steel rod attached to the inside of the door that folds out and holds the door open ( a lighter version of the hood props found on many cars )
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Old 04-11-2015, 02:21 PM   #28
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We love our 2014 30T, but wish it had 2 heat pumps instead of just one. In hot weather, the single unit just doesn't cut it. I see that it's an upgrade option for 2015 models and includes 50-amp service. Has any 30T owners tried to upgrade their 2014 and earlier years to a 2nd AC unit?
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Old 04-11-2015, 05:08 PM   #29
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I've heard of some people installing a second AC unit (13,500 btu) and run a separate cable to power the unit. If boon-docking, they would plug to a separate 2000+ watt generator to power during hot periods of the day, or if available at a camp ground, plug to any available 15/20/30 amp circuit. To install another AC in the 30T, you would have to get rid of the powered fan in the living room area, or cut a new vent hole in the bedroom area. Not sure how you would handle the electrical, though. I purchased a 2015 30T with the dual AC/heat pump option and Winnebago installed the second AC in the bedroom area.
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Old 04-12-2015, 05:11 AM   #30
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I looked at moving my rear door hinges from a top hinge to a side hinge. It could be done but I don't think I want to drill out 8-10 rivets. I did notice the hook style of prop but I like the idea of a gas shock and just lifting the door and it stays put. Ghutch used two gas shocks but I'm not sure if just one would work. I'll have to ask him why he used two.

I started another thread concerning the noise from the check valve in the water compartment. Is anybody else having that same problem??? If so how did you fix it? I've checked and it's not the regulator it is the valve which is behind the hose connection. Start your water running using city water and grab the water inlet behind the panel.

TeJay
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:15 AM   #31
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TeJay, www.hatchlift.com is the vendor that I got my kit from. Installation requires carefully following the instruction. Not hard, just have to get it right the first time. I tried the lift after installing one strut, but quickly decided that both are needed. On my installation, I made two small wooden blocks and mounted them to the inside of the compartment using construction adhesive and screws because the area had only thin ply board and aluminum. This helped a lot. This is the point where the strut applies a lot of force. I bought mine from this vendor at a FMCA Rally. The rep knew the product well, and it works great.
As for the water line noise, I know what you are talking about. My opinion is that it is coming from either the selector valve (Fill valve) or the city connector. However, your coach is newer, and may have different plumbing from mine. BTY, if you ever have a "burping" water pump, it could be the selector (fill) valve not closing 100%. Had this happen early on. Replaced and it fixed it.
I would post pics, but have forgotten how to.
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:21 AM   #32
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Here is a link to mods folk have done to their 30W from several years ago. I just ordered sliding shelves for the pantry like shown in the thread. My dimensions were slightly different.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread
/tid/25136957/srt/pa/print/true/pging/1/page/9.cfm
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:49 AM   #33
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Once again ..... fingers too big to be doing this on cell phone. Here is link to 2011 post showing pull-out shelves on a 30W. Page 9 has pics and page 10 has diagram. My measurements were slightly different.

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: 2010 and 2011 Winnebago Vista 30W Owners.
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:30 AM   #34
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I've taken a few pics of MODS that we've done and I forgot to take pics of the sliding shelves. I think the DW got them at one of the box stores. I'll take some pics and get that information posted as well.

I hope I can post some pics. I tried last night and it didn't work. I don't know why it's so hard to post pics. On regular e-mail all you have to do is drag & drop them onto your e-mail. I've done it here once then forgot how.

Tejay
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:51 PM   #35
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Going to try and post some pics tonight.
1. My sliding tool box. As I was taking the pics I realized that I could turn the box around and not have to stoop under the slide. So I did it and now the drawers don't open all the way. I'll probably leave it this way. You can build it the way shown and can get into all areas of the tool box but you have to duck down.
2. Added a locking device so the sliding table can be locked in any position you want it.
3. Added a bar that goes across the coach. We use this when we have damp stuff to hang or to air out clothes or just to hang coats when the temps go up and down. It stays up all the time. Currently I have not attached it in the center on to the roof. As we travel the long rod does shake a lot. If I attached it to the roof in the middle that would stop it. I will when I have some time.

Also a pic showing the folding chairs that we didn't use for the first 10,000 miles but will now. As Hutch did we took the bigger chairs out and are going to use the folding ones. They are comfortable and will go on the bed when traveling. This will give us a little more room in the kitchen area.

If anybody wants more detailed pictures of any of these mods send me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll send them.

I'll be posting some other MODS later: Rear Track bar, steering stabilizer, kitchen drawer sliding baskets, dash lights, and mounted XM radio.

TeJay
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:55 PM   #36
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My wife has been complaining that there needed to be more indents for the sliding table! Where did you pick up the locking device from?
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Old 04-13-2015, 03:25 AM   #37
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Also a pic showing the folding chairs that we didn't use for the first 10,000 miles but will now. As Hutch did we took the bigger chairs out and are going to use the folding ones. They are comfortable and will go on the bed when traveling. This will give us a little more room in the kitchen area.
We took this one step further. I removed the OEM table and support and installed a hinged table top with a folding leg. When traveling or not needed, the table top folds down against the slide carpeted toe kick. The folding chairs are stored on the bed when traveling and behind the driver's seat when we are parked.
We immediately fell in love with the opposing slides floor plan and now have a comfortable living room.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:23 AM   #38
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dzrtracr, I know you can find these type of clamps at Rockler, or any other wood workers store. They are used to clamp stock when performing wood working cuts etc. You might find them at HF (Harbor Freight). I have several of them so I have not looked at HF lately but I think I will.

Check Rockler Part #'s 25277, 20787. They are called "Quickset Lever Clamps, Mini T-Handle clamp. They make several designs with the handles in different positions and different lengths. Unless you are familiar with the different designs you might get the wrong one. Or you might get one that works even better. I had to cut the handle down so it would not interfere with my leg or the door below it. But that's what I had laying around in the shop and I didn't want to wait. I just checked Rockler and they are about $20. Try HF.

WILDBILL, That idea works as well. That thought also crossed my mind but for me that would be a major project that I don't want to tackle right now. We also like the idea that the sliding table does not have to stay in one place fully extended. We usually extend it until just before the gap for the extra leaf shows up. That's usually long enough for us to put the computers, breakfast etc on the table.
WB you said support. Ours does not have a support. I think Hutch's table had a support as well. For 2014 they must have beefed up table and/or the sliding mechanism enough to support the full weight without a support leg.

Interesting stuff.
Thanks,
TeJay
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:00 AM   #39
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Here's a MOD that I just finished. I don't remember if we've talked about this or not. If you've got a screaching noise coming from the water area when it's running I've fixed mine. Here's how I did it. The check valve is making the noise. It's behind the panel where your city water hooks in. If it makes a noise just reach around and grab the valve you'll feel it.

Take the three screws holding the hose connections on the panel. You can see how it looks behind. You'll have to cut the Pex clamp at the plastic T. That's not easy but just the beginning. Once it's cut unwind the clamp. Now you have to get the Pex tubing off the T fitting without damaging the T. I used a Dremel cut off wheel. You don't want to cut into the T because it might not seal. I weakened the tubing by cutting along its length. Then I punctured the tube not near the T and inserted a flat screw driver in the tube and split it apart.

You'll have to gut the check valve. I drilled it until it fell apart. Measure your old tube and install a new one. Put everything back together.

You'll notice a shut off valve between the elbow and the regulator. That's my check valve. Just shut that off before you disconnect the CW and no water will flow out.

About the shut off valve. I had three of them laying around the garage and the last one I found sealed. Those things are cheaply made. When buying one close it and try to blow air through it. You'll find them in the garden hoses. Maybe somebody makes a better one but 2 of what I had did not hold water. Put the valve in place shut it and turn on the pump. If it's going to leak it will.

My pressure gauge says over 60 PSI. While the water was running inside I set it to 55 LBS. I guess when it's off it's higher than when flowing. I'll recheck what is recommended in the WBGO manual then reset it.

Got NO noise and a lot more water and pressure.

TeJay
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:02 PM   #40
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When we took our first shake down run at a local camp ground, I had an issue with the city feed check valve. Just before we were leaving, I disconnected the hose from the city feed. But just before driving off, I needed to wash my hands, so I turned on the water pump. I realized that the water pressure was low and the pump ran continuously! I saw that water was pumping directly out of the city feed, because the check valve had not properly seated. I moved the center pin in the check valve and it seated properly. I bought a 45 elbow with valve in case the check valve ever completely fails.
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