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Old 01-15-2021, 01:24 PM   #1
New to Class A
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Washougal, WA
Posts: 4
2008 Itasca Suncruiser 35L Battery Disconnect

Hi, Newbie here,

First week owning a Class A motorhome and left the house battery switch on. Seems to drain the batteries anyway even when its off though. So I drained the house batteries to zero... I know that I am not supposed to go below 50% but forgot being a newbie.
I put the charger on the house bank last night and left it charging. Haven't looked at it yet. They are a new set of batteries from the dealer, just wondering if what I did damaged them at all. Two 6VDC in series and was told they are golf cart batteries (Look full car size though). Need to look at the brand and model.

I am thinking it might be a good idea to install a battery cutoff switch but am concerned that those modules that are obviously still connected with the OEM switch off need to have power. I'd use that switch only when leaving it sit for more than a couple days.

Comments and experience are welcome.

Thank you!
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Old 01-16-2021, 03:52 AM   #2
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Branson MO area
Posts: 674
The standard battery disconnect switch, does disconnect alot of the 12 v. items in the coach. However with that being said it also leave a lot of 12v. items on, witch will drain the battery rather fast. The propane detector is a big one, the radio, a lot of things turned off still use 12v to keep memory and are not effected by the disconnect switch.

To do a total disconnect you will have to install your own switch as close to the coach batteries as possible. That will not hurt any of the systems, its just like removing the batteries for winter storage. Or if you store where 120v is available just keep unit plugged in.
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Old 01-16-2021, 04:29 AM   #3
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 526
pwelco-

First off, welcome to winnieowners!

Second, you should add a signature to your user profile. It usually includes the year, make and model of your coach, but can include other information. A signature is appended to each post. To create/edit a signature, click on the "User CP" link in the orange bar at the top, then click on "Edit Signature."

If you haven't discovered them yet, here are some useful links:

Winnebago Manuals and Diagrams
Winnebago Wiring Diagrams (link from the page above)
2008 Itasca Suncruiser 35L Wiring Diagrams (link from the page above)
Body, 12V Wiring Diagram (link from the page above)

Sheet 1 of the "Body, 12V Wiring Diagram" shows the Battery Disconnect Relay. The switch near the door activates this relay. As "be happy" has said, and as the owner's manual confirms, this relay does not disconnect all 12V loads from the house battery bank. The drawing does not show a manual battery disconnect switch, nor does the manual mention one. Accordingly, I would find room to install a manual battery disconnect switch. There are several styles you could choose; selection might depend on reliability, fit and ease-of-use.
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Old 01-16-2021, 11:31 AM   #4
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
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Several thoughts/suggestions may help decide?
One big issue is the batteries running down while stored so some thought is needed as it is not good for them ! But it is not as simple as we might like.

Step one is that the start battery has things like radio, ignition, etc that stay on when we shut it down.

Coach battery has some things which also stay on like CO and propane detector.

If we disconnect either or both, the equipment is not harmed but it may also mean you lose the radio presets if you have any. Some radios do, some don't but we never pay much attention to presets as we use the radio in different areas anyway!

Options:
1. Connect a trickle charger or plug the RV in but this requires you to watch to not let the water go low on the battery as that is a killer. Also letting the RV converter do the charge does NOT charge the start battery, only the coach, unless we set up a feature like a Trik-L-Start, etc. to let it do both.

But fully disconnecting the coach items left over doesn't have to be hard if we study a bit as there is likely to be a separate breaker to feed those small items, so tripping that breaker may appeal to you?

This snip of the drawing shows how the coach battery flows to the different breakers. Click the drawing for a better view, but the idea is that there is the green path which feeds through the disconnect to most things with the big breaker but the blue path goes around the disconnect to the small 6 amp breaker feeding the leftovers.

The drawing shows these breakers from the back side so if looking for that breaker next to the step, mentally turn it around as what shows on the right actually is the left!! So if you find that 6 amp breaker as 4th from right when viewed from front, (the one between the 15 amp and 6 amp?) trip it and also switch the battery disconnect off, the coach battery load will be cut off!

But also keep in mind that batteries do "self-discharge" at some small pace and do need occasion looks to keep them in best shape!
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Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
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Old 01-17-2021, 07:58 AM   #5
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Washougal, WA
Posts: 4
Thank you very much for this info! Very useful and I have added a Signature as well
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Old 01-17-2021, 08:07 AM   #6
New to Class A
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Washougal, WA
Posts: 4
Thumbs up OMG Great idea on the breakers!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
Several thoughts/suggestions may help decide?
One big issue is the batteries running down while stored so some thought is needed as it is not good for them ! But it is not as simple as we might like.

Step one is that the start battery has things like radio, ignition, etc that stay on when we shut it down.

Coach battery has some things which also stay on like CO and propane detector.

If we disconnect either or both, the equipment is not harmed but it may also mean you lose the radio presets if you have any. Some radios do, some don't but we never pay much attention to presets as we use the radio in different areas anyway!

Options:
1. Connect a trickle charger or plug the RV in but this requires you to watch to not let the water go low on the battery as that is a killer. Also letting the RV converter do the charge does NOT charge the start battery, only the coach, unless we set up a feature like a Trik-L-Start, etc. to let it do both.

But fully disconnecting the coach items left over doesn't have to be hard if we study a bit as there is likely to be a separate breaker to feed those small items, so tripping that breaker may appeal to you?

This snip of the drawing shows how the coach battery flows to the different breakers. Click the drawing for a better view, but the idea is that there is the green path which feeds through the disconnect to most things with the big breaker but the blue path goes around the disconnect to the small 6 amp breaker feeding the leftovers.

The drawing shows these breakers from the back side so if looking for that breaker next to the step, mentally turn it around as what shows on the right actually is the left!! So if you find that 6 amp breaker as 4th from right when viewed from front, (the one between the 15 amp and 6 amp?) trip it and also switch the battery disconnect off, the coach battery load will be cut off!

But also keep in mind that batteries do "self-discharge" at some small pace and do need occasion looks to keep them in best shape!
I hadn't thought about just cutting off the breakers. What a great idea and thank you! That saves me some time and money for sure. I hadn't been plugging it in since the dealer warned me to get a surge protector first. I installed and 50 amp EMS (Energy Management System) yesterday so now have it plugged into power at my house, 120VAC. Question, does that charge the house batteries also when on shore power? Does the house battery switch have to be on to charge them?

Thank you again!!
Pwelco
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Old 01-17-2021, 11:31 AM   #7
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
Posts: 7,371
I "think" yes, the disconnect has to be on to charge the house batteries.
We can get into thinking power goes one way on a wire but it really can go different directions in different situations as the current will go from the higher potential /voltage to the lower.
That leaves the coach batteries feeding current out and to the coach item breakers as I drew in the earlier drawing but they also meet the output of the converter on the same bus bar at that 55 amp breaker. I tend to think of current coming out of the batteries and also coming out of the converter, but the more correct thinking is that the current will be flowing FROM the one which has higher voltage and TO the lower.

When plugged in and the converter is producing DC power, it will feed the coach items and also charge the batteries, but if we unplug, the converter voltage output will be near zero and current will flow from the batteries to the coach and also show up at the converter but not go anywhere.

But the connection between the converter and the batteries runs through the disconnect switch.

The way I deal with this is easy as my breakers are right there at the battery compartment and door, so when storing I have a limited number of breakers and just flip off any that I don't want hot, leaving the converter breaker on. I rarely use my battery disconnect as I am plugged in and want to use the converter to charge the coach batteries and I have also added the Trik-L- charge to avoid using a second charger to keep the start battery alive. I'm okay with leaving the CO and propane detectors and the dash radio presets hot. I know it is some small amount of electrical use that is a waste but I'm okay with that amount compared to the other things I'm wasting money on!! The decals rotting down probably cost more??
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Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
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