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Old 03-02-2021, 11:28 PM   #1
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2007 V33 Adventurer leaking above drivers windshield.

2007 V33 Adventurer MH leaking above drivers windshield.
Does anyone know a good shop in SW Missouri or northern Arkansas to have the windshield replaced and check/repair rust?
Thanks...
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Old 03-03-2021, 06:50 AM   #2
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Hi, and welcome!

Let me ask, are you sure it’s the windshield that is leaking? I ask because it’s not unheard of for Winnebago Class As with aged front cap sealant to leak water into the area behind the front cabinets and for those leaks to appear like they are coming from the upper windshield.

It would be a bummer if you pay to have the windshield reset and still had the exact same leaks.

Where is your leak appearing? Have you checked/resealed the front cap roof radius?
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:57 AM   #3
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Creativepart has a good suggestion.

However, if it is the windshield, there are a lot of posts on sealing windshield leaks. But before making things too complicated, I suggest the following:

Run a piece of outdoor electrical tape or Gorilla tape across the top of the rubber moulding sealing it against your cab. If it works, you can replace it with Eternabond Tape. The tape doesn't have to be wide, just wide enough to extend 1/2" or so above the moulding. Since the moulding is black, black tape won't be an eyesore.

This solved my windshield leak problem and the Eternabond tape is going strong after almost 4 years. A prior owner had the full rust repair done on mine and it was still leaking after I bought it. A few dollars worth of Eternabond fixed what an expensive rust repair didn't.

The nice thing about this approach is that it's easy and you'll save yourself a lot of work and/or money if it takes care of the problem. It's also a lot less work than some of the caulking methods that some suggest.

You can also tape the side mouldings if you'd like to do so (I didn't) but I advise that you don't tape the bottom edge moulding. Not only is it an unlikely source of a leak but leaving it un-taped, leaves a drainage path open for any water that may intrude from above.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.
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Old 03-07-2021, 11:42 PM   #4
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First, Thanks for your help.
To Creativepart, I just bought the MH and it has a very new looking roof. I had all the seals check and re-caulked just after I got it. I did climb up and check again after receiving your reply and the front cap seal looks good. I did find that the upper running lights have not been sealed. Could be my problem.

BobC., Your idea of using the Eternabond tape sounds like a good idea and I may use it.

I need to have the drivers windshield replaced due to a chip/crack and would like to know if I have the "Winnebago windshield rust problem".
The coach is new to us and I just would like to know all the problems before they become "BIG" problems. That is the main reason I am looking for a good shop that you trust in my area.
Thanks again for your help...
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Old 03-08-2021, 07:17 AM   #5
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Since you need to have the windshield replaced anyway, it certainly is a good time to check for the rust problem. Sorry I can't help you out with a shop recommendation.
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Old 03-12-2021, 04:00 PM   #6
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I have a 2003 Adventurer. I thought my windshield was leaking as well. I was seeing water dripping from between the headliner and windshield area during heavy rain. After a bunch of work I figured out that it was actually two of the marker lights on the top cap. After re-sealing the all of the lights my water issue resolved.
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Old 03-14-2021, 07:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobC View Post
Creativepart has a good suggestion.

However, if it is the windshield, there are a lot of posts on sealing windshield leaks.
I'm working on the leak issue with the front windshield of my 13 Journey 36M but question about where water was coming in. I need to remove the inside area where the water was dripping to see how much damage done - mold, etc. Not sure how to go about checking that out. Any help on that would be great. Thanks, Rick
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Old 03-15-2021, 07:27 AM   #8
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Thanks for your input Jim, I plan on taking my marker lights out and sealing behind them. I did find there was no sealant behind the marker lights when I replaced a lens.
What did you use to seal yours?
Thanks again, George
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Old 03-15-2021, 07:56 AM   #9
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I used a white Dicor non-leveling non-sag roof sealant.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHall1701 View Post
2007 V33 Adventurer MH leaking above drivers windshield.
Does anyone know a good shop in SW Missouri or northern Arkansas to have the windshield replaced and check/repair rust?
Thanks...
We own a 2005 Adventurer and had leaks from the front -

(1) The 5 Running Lights along the top of the cap - found that rain water can run right down behind them and then drip right into your upper cabinets over the dash. Did so on ours -creating some rust in one of the upper windshield fans. Fixed it when I installed all new LED running lights there, and then very carefully sealing each up with white Silicon. No more leaks!

(2) When we bought ours in 2016 noticed wind noise and some dirt coming from around the passenger side windscreen. Got out my 8' stepladder to remove the outer windscreen weather stripping. Found we had some of the windshield support frame rusting along the top - but luckily not through - just surface. But still enough rust to allow the windscreen to no longer be bonded along the top. Cleaned it up as best I could and then applied 2 coats of POR-15 - a super durable coating which literally bonds to steel - making sure to work it in and onto the steel behind where the windscreens bonds. After thoroughly drying I rebonded the windscreen to the new surface. Again - luckily mine had only lost bonding along the top. Just be careful not to let the new bonding adhesive interfere with the area where the U Channel will sit.

Then got some new U Channel from Winnebago (this is the channel with self-adhesive backing which holds the outer rubber trim). After setting into place I then used black silicon to carefully seal on both sides of the U Channel - so that there was solid sealant attaching the windscreen and the fiberglass cap. Still concerned about water seeping through the U channel so after re-installing the outer rubber trim I then ran thick beads of black silicon under the upper rubber trim - effectively sealing it to the white cap. After squeezing out the excess I carefully cleaned it up using mineral spirits. Now looks great and No leaks at all.

You will find that this is a common problem for that Winnebago chassis, But while many places claim to be able to repair it I have found most do not want to do it right. Some which simply remove the windshield and paint the rusted steel with Rustoleum - which I have found to be totally useless as far as really preventing any rust.

So to totally fix this problem - since you have to replace the windscreen anyway - after it is removed have all the exposed steel channel cleaned up well with wirebrush as you want to remove any loose rust flakes. Then have them apply 2 coats of POR-15 to really rustproof the steel, and re-install windscreen (most use a urethane bonding adhesive). Have them then install new U channels all around, and then seal that up well as I described above.

Some shops want to weld up the rusted steel and grind smooth - but that is costly and not necessary (unless your steel is rusted through) as your windscreen bonding adhesive, and the silicon sealants applied will fill in all minor gaps and imperfections. And the POR-15 will bond quite well to surface rusted steel.

One note on POR-15 - found this coating after learning that car restorers have been using it for years. In fact- while it comes in typical paint cans - you have to be sure that after you open and use that if you want to put its cap back on to totally clean up the lid and can rim because even one small drop left there will bond the lid to the can permanently. As I said - it is designed to bond to steel - which it does quite well!
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:21 PM   #11
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RV Fog Dr., Searcy Arkansas. Great bunch of guys. Have used them for fogged windows. They do windshield repair as well.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:31 PM   #12
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Windshield Leak

My 2007 Itasca Sunrise leaked along the top of the split windshield, driver's side for many years. I removed the external rubber trim along the top several times over the years and applied sealant but with negative results. I finally had the windshield replaced last October, 2020. The steel frame that holds the windshield was corroded to the point where I had to pay the glass shop extra to refurbish before the new windshield could be installed. I soaked the new installation with my garden hose and so far, all is good. The technician told me that most of the Winnebago's windshields need some degree of window frame work due to chronic leaking caused by corrosion. Unfortunately, the Winnebago method of construction leaves a channel between the top of the windshield and the mounting frame that traps water. It usually takes a few years before this problem becomes apparent.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knightly View Post
My 2007 Itasca Sunrise leaked along the top of the split windshield, driver's side for many years. I removed the external rubber trim along the top several times over the years and applied sealant but with negative results. I finally had the windshield replaced last October, 2020. The steel frame that holds the windshield was corroded to the point where I had to pay the glass shop extra to refurbish before the new windshield could be installed. I soaked the new installation with my garden hose and so far, all is good. The technician told me that most of the Winnebago's windshields need some degree of window frame work due to chronic leaking caused by corrosion. Unfortunately, the Winnebago method of construction leaves a channel between the top of the windshield and the mounting frame that traps water. It usually takes a few years before this problem becomes apparent.
After extensive research on this the consensus seems to be that not only was the steel backing frame not properly rustproofed, but that the U Channel (which retains the outer rubber trim) used was holding water and furthering the rust problem.

Turns out the U Channel is made from open cell foam. As such it works like a sponge, holding water in it, and causing rust in the steel channel behind it. If they had used a closed cell foam then it would not retain water, though these units would still have the issue of water seeping behind the outer weather stripping. Overall not the best design, but one which Winnebago has long since changed in newer units.
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Old 03-18-2021, 10:28 AM   #14
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When we purchased our 2005 Sightseer class A, the water had been coming in; via the drivers side window for a while. As you've likely heard, Winnie class A's are noted for this problem.
I took it to a well known glass place that told be the only way to fix this right was to remove the glass, and work back from there. She also said the single pane was something like $1,400 a side, and was likely to break when attempting to remove it. (For which they would accept no responsibility.) She went on to tell me to claim it was broken, and have it fixed under insurance. Such an unethical recommendation did not endear me to their institution, but with the consideration of potential cost and feeling rather trapped, I decided it was time to consult with Mickey Mouse.
I went home, got out a couple ladders and a plank; and went to work. The thing that happens is that water sits just above the rubbery black seal between the glass and the metal lip it is adhered to. It eventually rusts there, and gradually the trapped water continues to rust downward along this steel lip behind the rubber. Finally, the rust makes it all the way underneath the seal; allowing water to get through. It then runs into the overhead cabinet, and down the inside face of the glass as well.
In my case, I'd say it had opened a 18 inch long gap. Thankfully, this is surface rust. I started with emery cloth pushed through the gap, and with a helper; we pulled back and forth to remove loose rust. I then used a spray can of rust stabilizer. There are multiple products that convert rust that are available at your local automotive parts store. They need a clean, grease free area, and actually chemically convert the rust to a stable and paintable surface. You have to wait 24 hours before continuing. This is all rather in the blind, hoping what you think is happening is, because you really can't see into this 1/8 inch or less gap. I then primered into the gap, and then put on a couple coats of glossy black paint. Lastly, I shoved the snout of a tube of black neoprene adhesive sealer into the gap, and worked it down and across the crack. In reading the labels neoprene adhesive sealers, I purchased the one that listed it's characteristics as highest in bond and flexibility. After all of this, saving a couple bucks here would be a poor choice. I then put back on the rubber overseal, that runs around the glass, I went to an automotive supply to purchase a really sticky double sided tape used to attach trim and such as that. Naturally cleaning the surfaces was important, and I like to finish with alcohol to insure there's no oil or grease.
Is it as good a job as removing the glass? unlikely. They'd have prepped and painted the rust area much better than me working through the crack, and never really seeing the surface well at all. But I find it likely it will last a few years, and who knows beyond that.
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Old 03-20-2021, 07:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHall1701 View Post
2007 V33 Adventurer MH leaking above drivers windshield.
Does anyone know a good shop in SW Missouri or northern Arkansas to have the windshield replaced and check/repair rust?
Thanks...
Check the running light seals above your windshield. Iíve had a 05 and 07. Both were leaking there once the lights were sealed no more problem.
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Old 03-22-2021, 09:33 PM   #16
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Taping Windshield

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobC View Post
Creativepart has a good suggestion.

However, if it is the windshield, there are a lot of posts on sealing windshield leaks. But before making things too complicated, I suggest the following:

Run a piece of outdoor electrical tape or Gorilla tape across the top of the rubber moulding sealing it against your cab. If it works, you can replace it with Eternabond Tape. The tape doesn't have to be wide, just wide enough to extend 1/2" or so above the moulding. Since the moulding is black, black tape won't be an eyesore.

This solved my windshield leak problem and the Eternabond tape is going strong after almost 4 years. A prior owner had the full rust repair done on mine and it was still leaking after I bought it. A few dollars worth of Eternabond fixed what an expensive rust repair didn't.

The nice thing about this approach is that it's easy and you'll save yourself a lot of work and/or money if it takes care of the problem. It's also a lot less work than some of the caulking methods that some suggest.

You can also tape the side mouldings if you'd like to do so (I didn't) but I advise that you don't tape the bottom edge moulding. Not only is it an unlikely source of a leak but leaving it un-taped, leaves a drainage path open for any water that may intrude from above.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.
The tape worked for me. I used 4 inch vinyl electrical tape and covered top and center seams. I didn't use eternabond because although it's great tape and I've used it around roof seams and edges it sticks so well you can't get it off.
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