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Old 08-15-2020, 02:13 PM   #1
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2007 Journey 34h power convertor?

On our 2007 Journey 34h, I wonder if anyone knows where the power converter is located...ours has stopped charging the batteries when plugged into a 30 amp land line and I don't know where to look for it..My manual suggests several places to look but I thought if anyone knows off-hand it might save some time...thanks for any help, Buford.
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Old 08-15-2020, 03:02 PM   #2
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Many times they are directly behind or an integral part of the panel where you have your 110v/12v circuit breakers/fuses.

Your wiring diagram shows it under your Fridge.

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_159302.pdf
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Old 08-18-2020, 09:34 AM   #3
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Well it's not under the fridge....Any other suggestions? I am old and feeble, guess I will just have to keep looking. I used to be able to hear the converter running (somewhere in the rear of the coach)when the battery needed charging but now there is no sound.
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Old 08-18-2020, 09:45 AM   #4
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Are you asking about the converter / inverter / charger ? If so. On my 2005. 34H. It’s in the compartment where the shore line is
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Old 08-18-2020, 10:05 AM   #5
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Yes, your RV has an optional inverter/charger rather than a Converter/Charger.

If you have the Inverter/Charger then you don't have a Converter under the fridge.

I saw that in the Electrical Schematics, but since you asked for the Converter I assumed that's what you had.

If it's not in the compartment that Journey Cat suggested then it will be in a compartment near the batteries. Sometimes they are hung upside down from the ceiling of a compartment near the batteries. Keep in mind on some RVs that can mean on the opposite side of the RV from the battery bank.

Here's the schematic for the Inverter/Charger showing where to find it.
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Old 08-18-2020, 10:13 AM   #6
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I'm not sure exactly what Inverter you have... but WBGO usually uses Magnum inverters. Older RVs have Dimensions Inverters which is the older name of Magnum.

Most have a RESET switch on them. That would be the first place to check.

Magnum is great at telephone tech support. So, take a photo of the label on the inverter with your phone so you have the model number and serial number and give them a call. They might be your best bet for info on what to do next.

It's not totally uncommon for a logic board inside the Inverter to go bad.

Here's the number if you have a Dimensions Inverter:

Dimensions Products
Tech Support | Warranty and RMAs
T: 800-553-6418

If you have a Magnum Inverter the number is:

Magnum Products
Tech Support
T: 425-353-8833
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Old 08-18-2020, 03:21 PM   #7
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Purchased my 05 ,34H from the original owner .
He got every option available in that year including full body paint .
On driver side first compartment forward of the chassis A/C fans .
I have a Dimensions charger/inverter and a Parallax transfer switch , and the power cord in the compartment . Oh and below the Dimensions is a plastic cover that has a couple solenoids in it that at present Im not sure as to what they do or control . Im working on that though !
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Old 08-18-2020, 04:44 PM   #8
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I think it may take a bit deeper look to actually know what to look for on this RV as there are options involved. Option 40 D shows an inverter 600 watt while option 13X is an inverter charger giving 2.0 KW. So before looking too hard, I would first want to look at the sheet listing what options were bought on THIS RV as what is on others may not really mean much.
So the question for the OP is if they have the sheet listing all that info which should have been in the big folder passed on from previous owners.
Right now it would seem like they are looking for a box but don't know if it is a bread box or a cereal box and that means they could be looking at it and not know it!
Perhaps an easier way is to look at what is found at the load center feeding each option
as the smaller has a 15 amp breaker and the larger a 30 amp feeding it's own inverter breaker panel.
Option one or option two?
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Old 08-18-2020, 08:15 PM   #9
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MORICH - You are exactly correct .
That is the way mine was built . O, O spared nothing when he purchased it
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Old 08-18-2020, 08:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Journey cat View Post
MORICH - You are exactly correct .
That is the way mine was built . O, O spared nothing when he purchased it
Okay, if we accept that he has this breaker setup , is the panel to the right the inverter sub panel? I think I can see some minor differences in that I think I can see the second breaker on your picture as a dishwasher and don't see mention of one on the drawing.
But assuming again that this is what he has, I would go for checking voltage as an easy thing to locate and possible not need to even find the inverter! It looks like the inverter feeds everything 110 AC in the coach except the items I marked in blue. The rest comes off the 30 amp main breaker to the inverter and then to the sub breaker panel 30 amp breaker.
So if he has power at the first main breaker but none at the submain breaker, he has to find the inverter, but there is hope that he might find one of these are tripped and he doesn't need the trauma of looking for the inverter!
Simple power goes in and hope it comes out! If not, then BUMMER and look more for the inverter.
Click the picture for larger to read.
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Old 08-18-2020, 09:06 PM   #11
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I have to apologize ! There are two options I don't have . And happy to say I can live with out 1- Dishwasher , 2 - Washing machine .
I guess you can call it a sub panel . Breakers there are for Convection Microwave and electric outlets
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Old 08-19-2020, 08:22 AM   #12
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My def. of it being sub panel as power comes into the first from the cord and then to the second before breaking down to feed the other smaller breakers. Nice for them to be located together for ease of finding them. Do you have any idea about the physical location of the inverter/ charger, as that is what they first asked about and also what the drawings don't show!
I can draw all kinds of ugly pictures but if you have to turn the RV over to find what's on them it doesn't help much. The newer RV have a great set of new drawings that let's us see the physical location and turn the RV every way we want to really bore down and locate things, even down to mounting brackets.
Anybody who has an RV that fits into the correct date range can be much better prepped when things do go wrong if they know the details of how things are built as there are some really odd designs at times.
Wouldn't it be handy to know where the water runs?
Good info here:
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
For instance we all KNOW that all grey water goes in one tank and all black into the other? Except when it doesn't like this one where the vanity goes straight into the black tank:
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Old 08-19-2020, 01:27 PM   #13
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Here is a few more of what I have in mine .
To back track a tad . Also a picture of whats inside of the plastic cover .
Id appreciate if you can tell me more about the function of that
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Old 08-19-2020, 02:32 PM   #14
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I have a 2004 Itasca "Horizon" and this how my power grid works:

First let's talk about terms and components:

A Converter/Charger is a separate 120V to 12V step down battery charger and you buy these things in different amp ratings (45-100W typically). These units also have a 12V out line for your coach lights and other 12V accessories, which will produce 12V when you ARE and ARE NOT plugged into shore power.

An Inverter/Charger is 12Vdc to 120Vac creates a square or quazi-sine or pure sine wave out of DC voltage and current; and inside the Inverter Box there is a separate 80-100A, 12V charger; and there is an internal transfer switch that automatically turns the inverter function "off" when you plug into shore power... and "on" if there is no 120Vac power present; assuming the remote display control is set to power on the charger and/or power on the inverter.

My Dimensions Quasi-sine Inverter/Charger receives it's 12V power and ground direct from the house batteries. However, there is also a power cable that runs first to the "Boost Solenoid" with a fat jumper to the Battery Disconnect Switch... and when this switch is LATCHED "on" it will pass 12v to the 12v DC Power Panel. (See push button fuses.) This BDS is controlled by the so called "Salesman Switch" usually located by the entry door.

SHORE POWER WITH 50A TRANSFER SWITCH

Power from shore power first goes to a transfer switch which is just a gate to give priority to the Generator (when it is running) over the 120Vac shore power connection. And out of the transfer switch both L1 and L2 (50A) lines are fed to the MAIN POWER PANEL.

Then a 30A-AC wire wire, out of the Inverter Circuit Breaker, is routed to your Inverter/Charger/Transfer Switch so it can "sense" power from either the generator or shore power pole. ...And if 120V is present it will allow your Inverter/Charger to run; and when no 120V is present the Inverter will do it's magic and convert 12Vdc battery energy in to 120Vac power.

* Out of the Inverter the L1 line goes to 30A SUB-POWER PANEL.

* And out of the Inverter/Charger board sends +13 to +15V back through the 12V positive and negative power cables to charge the batteries.

Note: If you have an 80A charger with 3-12V house batteries, then each battery will receive 80/3 or ~27A/battery. Consequently, if you have a 430AH battery bank that is depleted to 50% SOC, then you it will take (in theory) 430x50% divided by 27A... or about 8 hrs to fully recharge this battery bank back up.

* However, batteries don't like to be "fast charged" and the internal resistance will push back on charging amps. So even healthy house batteries will only reach 90% SOC even when your charger says it reaches 100% and goes into "float mode." Further, you will find your battery bank will last the longest the first day you are dry-camping, but each subsequent day will require you to run your generator more often to obtain the same amount of battery power. (But I digress.)

* Both L1 and L2 are really 50A at the power pole, but the coach wiring and circuit breaker(s) limit power to 30A or 20A and they use the appropriate gauge wire to save money and install the appropriate circuit breaker for safety. (See your power panels for 20A & 15A breakers for the appliance they protect.)

* The BOOST SOLENOID is a momentary solenoid and is only engaged when you hold down the boost switch. And the only reason you need to do this is when you need to JOIN the house batteries to the engine battery for a JUMP.

Keep in mind my power grid maybe different than yours, but fundamentally, if you do NOT have 30A power to your Inverter Charger, then:

A) Maybe your inverter circuit breaker has tripped or is bad? Do you have voltage to the bus bar?

* NO * ...Then maybe your transfer switch needs to be checked. Just open the box cover with the power disconnected and inspect for visual burns or loose connections.

* YES * ...Then maybe your wire nuts inside the inverter/charger need to be checked for rust.

B) YOUR DIMENSIONS BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR (BTS) MAY BE BAD! This sensor is connected to the NEGATIVE house battery terminal and the part #611622-15 for $35 direct from Sensata/Dimensions. Call 855-633-7257. This is a "thermal resistor" that acts as a safety switch to turn you inverter/charger off in the event you batteries over heat. (See Picture.)

C) YOUR DIMENSIONS CHARGER IS BAD...and at that point you can do two things:

* Replace the inverter charger which is expensive, but you can get an upgrade to a pure sine inverter, which may or may not be worth spending your money on, because the Dimensions Quisi-sine Inverter produces a good enough sine wave to power a residential refrigerator, but may not be "clean enough" for any medical equipment? IDK.

* Keep your Dimensions Invert and just turn off the charger at your remote panel. ...Then buy a separate Converter-Charger and tie into the inverter-out L1 wire to power it; or if you want a switched outlet, you can plug the Converter-Charger into engine block heater wall socket that is already there. Then you can turn the Converter-Charger off from inside your coach.

Note: Victron is making some very cool "bluetooth" enabled products that let you use an App on your cell phone to control their products.

Note: You don't need the Converter 12V wire, but maybe you can utilize it for something else? Maybe run it to the engine compartment to power a 12V scavenge pump to make your fluid changes easier.

I personally have no need for a pure-sine wave inverter, but if you do this is the time to upgrade. I.e., whenever you have to spend money to fix something, then why not spend a little more to upgrade?

And if I lost just my charger, I would look at keeping my Dimensions inverter and add a separate charger.

I did just order this Victron Battery Maintainer which also has bluetooth so I can monitor and control this device from my cell phone:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 08-19-2020, 02:42 PM   #15
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I think (but check it) that those are the battery disconnect relay and aux start solenoid, but not sure what the third item at center top might be??
I think the two big heavy red cables on the right hand nearer solenoid are what I have marked in green on the drawing. wire gauge is lower number being heavier wire, so 4 is a big one!
The funny looking one at the bottom with the smaller red wire, I think will be the coach battery disconnect relay, but again check that with comparing wires,size, etc. What I think I see is looking at the drawing left hand lower corner at the big green arrow is 12 VDC power from the charger coming into the coach batteries, out along the "breadcrumbs to the aux solenoid. If you push the aux start button, this solenoid connect the coach batteries to the start batterie inside this solenoid for "jump starting" but at the same time the coach battery is always connected to the disconnect relay.
At the disconnect relay there are two 16 gauge small yellow wires (LG&LH)that go to the disconnect switch wherever it lives as well as possible LJ if you have a light on the switch. Those control this realy to make or break contact from left to right big lugs. That power goes out on a pair of no. 6 medium size black wires to feed some of the breakers. I think I got carried away and marked it feeding more than actual, though!
Do understand that this is all open for review as it is the only picture I've seen and never looked at on your RV so lots of room for confusion!
My current RV has these solenoid and relay back behind a cover and a breaker panel and it took half an hour to get the cover off far enough to peek, so I quit before I broke something! I can see them but not reach to really do much and they are a couple of things we do often see problems or confusion on how they work as the disconnect is a major item we use a lot!
Looking at them can really mess with testing as the small control leads do really odd stuff, like change polarity each time we use the switch! It powers an electromagnet inside to make a coil move the big contacts and then when we let go of the switch, there is a magnet in the funny top to hold or "latch" the contact to stay without using battery full time. But to get it to go the other way, the control wires need to swap the battery and ground polarity.
Messes with my mind when I locate battery on a wire and then it's ground the next time I test!!
This is a snip from this drawing if you want to see more of the layout:
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_159306.pdf
But click the picture to get it larger and better to read!
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Old 08-19-2020, 03:21 PM   #16
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JourneyCat: That second picture you posted looks like your engine starter solenoid. Can't say for certain. If it is, this 12V source comes from your engine or chassis batteries and not from the house batteries.

I think your Battery Disconnect and Boost Solenoid is located behind that large metal cover. ...The cover your coax face plate screws into. And if you have over 70,000 miles, you should either change them out as PM; or you should carry a spare battery cable so you can by-pass your battery disconnect solenoid should if fail on you in the field.

The problem with the jumper is that you have to take the box apart to get to your house solenoids, but this is one way to get back home when you don't want fix it on the road.

Likewise, I carry a 30" battery cable with me for emergency purposes should my alternator go out and drain my engine batteries down to where the engine stalls-out. And in that event, when you connect your house battery positive post to your engine battery positive post, you can drive your coach another 1-1.5hrs to seek an alternator R&R at a shop vs. getting stuck on the side of a highway. Both of these cables are cheap insurance and available at Walmart.

This picture is what you should see behind the cover. (Boost Solenoid + BDS)

==> However, your solenoids have nothing to do with your charger not working, because your charger is a 120Vac function; with the exception of the Remote Panel that can turn the inverter and/or charger on or off.

==> Also, most people report that the Dimensions Charger is the first to go south; and since you cannot get parts for it most people get rid of the thing. Probably based on the mechanics (limited) thinking.

However, no where have I read about some one just adding a separate charger and therefore keep their old Dimensions inverter (until now).

...And it would appear from my research (not personal experience) that these Converter-Chargers are a "better" smart-charger; so you might get longer house battery life when you upgrade.

...Personally, I'm tired of replacing my house batteries every 2-3 years so I decided to add a battery maintainer with bluetooth! ...It's all about how much money you want to through at the problem! ...But I see no reason why you should trash a good Dimensions inverter just because you loose the charger board inside!

...Remember, you cannot turn your charger "on" unless you have generator or shore power!
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Old 08-19-2020, 04:26 PM   #17
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This tread has morphed . What ever happened to Buford and the original problem?
Never less its interesting , and a great reference .
Im not having any problems with mine .
And when you speak of a A metal cover . My solonoids are up front over the generator .
I have replaced those in recent past .
Whats under the plastic cover below the Dimension would seem to me be tad , far away to be a starter solonide . And there are two of them .
Excuse me if im loosing track here
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Old 08-19-2020, 05:04 PM   #18
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I now see I may/may not have missed on looking at the 2007 versus 2005 but they look to be pretty close to the same as long as we keep looking at the same model 34 H. Not heard from the OP but he was looking for his inverter converter and that can get into lots of delays as other things often get higher priority, especially on these hot days!
With the new picture, I see the breaker panel is not hard to find!!!
A hint on which solenoid is the label on the door??
Guess we did get the ID correct but the rest is always open for checking.
I would not change out electrical parts in this system based on mileage as that has little to do with how much use these relays have had over the years but would vary more with how the RV is used. Somebody who lived in it might have never bothered to turn the coach disconnect off and might never have used the aux switch for anything if they always were connected to power while at sites. So much of what we do varies with how we each may use the RV.
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Old 08-19-2020, 10:33 PM   #19
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The OP was concerned with the CHARGER not working.

The charger is in the inverter and there is no Convert-Charger like other coaches have.

The subject of solenoids was introduced and I specifically pointed out that solenoids have nothing to do with a charger malfunction.

As for do PM of all kinds based on 70,000 miles is like saying once every 15 years!

Of course, you never know when an item will fail, but if you got by for 10-15 years with "known" wear components, then the choice is yours:

A) You can change them when the fail in the field and at the worst possible time; or...

B) You can PM these parts to avoid the headache for the next 10-15 years.

...I'm just saying! ...There are a ton of things that go out between 70K and 90K miles and after you replace them you are good for another "cycle". This includes alternators, belts, BDS, transmision fluid, hydraulic fluids, differential fluid, and engine coolant to name a few.

...But by all means this thread is about what to do when the "Charger" insinde your Inverter/Charger "craps-out!"
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Old 08-20-2020, 09:41 AM   #20
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I am still here, just kind of confused with all the tech info that I don't understand...I have 120 volt power to the inverter when on gen or plugged to a land line...just can't seem to get the battery charger to go. I have the cover off the inverter/charger but don't want to start poking around in there. Looks mighty complex!
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