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Old 01-28-2019, 09:25 AM   #1
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Unhappy 2007 39 K Journey Roof Seams

Hello everyone todays question is concerning the horror stories my wife and I have been hearing about the fiberglass roof's peeling off of coaches due to wind getting under seperated roof seams. We have been told by a couple different folks to put down Durabond tape over the roof seams to prevent this from ever happening. Does anyone out there have any experience or suggestions concerning this issue. Thank You
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Old 01-28-2019, 10:50 AM   #2
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It's Eternabond tape and it's also good for sealing all your roof mounted fixtures. I also used it to seal the top edge of my windshield. I have enough tape to do it but haven't yet sealed my roof edges except for the front cap.

As with many issues discussed here, you're going to find proponents and detractors. And, typically, the proponents with be those who've used it and the detractors will be those who haven't. You're going to find few who've used it and hated it.

If you're religious about properly and periodically re-sealing your roof edges (with Winnebago's specified sealant), you're probably OK without it but I know that's not going to happen so I'll be applying the Eternabond. The key is to prevent wind from getting under the edge and, IMHO, Eternabond is going to do that better than a bead of sealant. In any case, the Eternabond should go over an intact bead of sealant so it's a belt-snd-suspenders approach.
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:08 PM   #3
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Much like you, we are terrified by those peeling roof panel stories. The critical thing is to prevent air flow from getting under the panel and lifting it. Thus the deserved fixation on seam caulk maintenance. We have re-caulked our roof seams twice. In process again as we speak. Not recommending anything, just telling a story.

In earlier post, I relayed how we have made good use of heavy duty Gorilla tape on the entry door vertical edge and along the lower edge of the cargo doors to prevent chips. The color works well with our livery and the product has been amazingly durable -- and no peeling.

We are so pleased that, a couple of years ago, we were tucked into a spot in the Black Hills next to a couple whose roof over the driver had started to peel back. AS A VOYAGE REPAIR we helped them tape it down with GORILLA TAPE. Out of an abundance of caution (and fear again - long road home) they helped us apply gorilla tape to all of our roof seams. Problem with voyage repairs is that they gravitate toward permanency.

I read in one of these threads that Winnebago is using Eternabond as part of warranty repairs. With that and peer pressure from folks giving the stink eye to my gorilla tape, I am presently in the process of stripping the gorilla tape from the roof seams and covering those seams with Eternabond.

I'm sure we are going to love Eternabond (at the price, we better). Here comes the but monkey! But, after all this time, always uncovered, 18K miles, rain, snow and sun, that gorilla tape looks new, is well bonded and yet strips off easily, leaving a slight amount of adhesive residue that cleans off easily with a rag dampened with paint thinner.

Fair Winds and Following Seas
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:51 PM   #4
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I am considering finding the frame on the roof that can easily be found using a metal stud finder, and laying strips of ~1.5” x (whatever fits across the roff ) stainless strips across the roof in several places, either screwed or SS rivets, obviously properly sealed once done. Even though the side seams are sealed I still worry about it pulling loose on the roof itself and ripping it off. This will prevent that
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Old 01-29-2019, 08:36 AM   #5
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Thanks for the replies it definitely sounds like the best way to go is the butyl tape. It looks to me from the ground that the seam of main concern is just above the gutter and is visible from the ground correct? The better half will not stand for the white being visible to onlookers as our coach is brown so its looking like I'm gonna be doing some caulking.
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Old 01-29-2019, 09:37 AM   #6
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So I just got off of the Winnebago parts line and they tell me that my coach was caulked prior to having full body paint applied and that white urethane caulk was used and painted over and that they do not have a colored caulk to match the paint. Any suggestions on where to search for the product will be appreicated thanks.
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Old 01-29-2019, 05:27 PM   #7
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Sounds like you may have been given incorrect information.
The painted roof gets a clear silicone-based sealant/adhesive. The other ones (like mine) need Manus Bond 75 (available in black, white and almond). Here is a good resource for explaining how the cove seal works:



The real problem with the "peeling roof" was a batch of roof overlays that had been cut too short. Many of those that failed would only tuck into the J-channel cove about an inch. On our 2006 it seats all the way into the bottom of the channel. I know this because I removed all of the old Manus Bond, cleaned with Acetone and Denatured Alcohol, and then relaid a nice, thick bead down both sides.

If you keep up with the roof inspection, the Manus Bond lasts about four years, more if you keep your rig covered (as we do). The Urethane sealant (Manus Bond) is plenty strong enough to keep the roof covering from peeling back in the worst of crosswinds. You just have to look at it every six months or so.
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Old 01-30-2019, 01:31 PM   #8
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I just installed eternabond tape on all roof seams and front and rear end caps using white tape 4" wide. I also used black 2" wide on my windshield. I have a 2002 Journey DL.
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Old 02-01-2019, 07:40 AM   #9
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Thanks for the replys it always helps to have the input and experience that is available through the forum when doing the required coach maintance. After careful consideration and alot of input from my wife we have decided to recaulk the seams with Manus Bond 75am Clear. Happy Trails
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Old 02-02-2019, 08:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chmielowiec View Post
Thanks for the replys it always helps to have the input and experience that is available through the forum when doing the required coach maintance. After careful consideration and alot of input from my wife we have decided to recaulk the seams with Manus Bond 75am Clear. Happy Trails
I didn't realize that they now have it in clear. Did you order it from Lichstinns (or whatever their name is)?

I ordered mine on Amazon and it was only available in white from that source. It wasn't horribly expensive, but I am sure that there must be some other product similar in content, but more affordable. I guess the only issue with that is that it isn't on the sealant callout list from Winnebago. That may affect whether or not your insurance carrier will cover a roof issue later on.
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Old 02-02-2019, 08:48 AM   #11
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I found the 75am clear on Amazon and before ordering I called Manus Bond to be sure that the clear and white is compatible so I dont forsee any insurance issues.
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Old 02-02-2019, 10:01 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by DryCreek View Post
I didn't realize that they now have it in clear. Did you order it from Lichstinns (or whatever their name is)?

I ordered mine on Amazon and it was only available in white from that source. It wasn't horribly expensive, but I am sure that there must be some other product similar in content, but more affordable. I guess the only issue with that is that it isn't on the sealant callout list from Winnebago. That may affect whether or not your insurance carrier will cover a roof issue later on.
But Manus 75AM does cross-reference to the Winnebago part # (072889-10-00), so I'm not sure what you mean.

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/s...20Sealants.pdf
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Old 02-03-2019, 10:35 AM   #13
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But Manus 75AM does cross-reference to the Winnebago part # (072889-10-00), so I'm not sure what you mean.

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/s...20Sealants.pdf
The problem is that some folks use a standard clear silicone caulk instead of the adhesive/sealant necessary to keep that seam cemented in place. The standard clear caulk is too pliable and will not prevent the fiberglass skin from pulling out of the channel. As long as it meets the Winnebago callout number, then you are good to go. If your roof peels back the first thing an insurance adjuster is going to do is determine whether or not you've kept up with the required maintenance, which includes using only the approved sealant/adhesive.

I didn't know that the Manus Bond 75 was available in clear, I thought that was some other product. I use the white since I have the plain old white sides and roof.
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Old 02-03-2019, 05:35 PM   #14
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What years are affeced?

I'm now the proud owner of a 2010 Journey 34Y and hope that this problem does not apply to those years. I'll give it a going over very soon.
Does anyone know which years had this "short roof" problem, that caused the lifting?
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Old 02-03-2019, 05:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chmielowiec View Post
Thanks for the replys it always helps to have the input and experience that is available through the forum when doing the required coach maintance. After careful consideration and alot of input from my wife we have decided to recaulk the seams with Manus Bond 75am Clear. Happy Trails
That was a good decision. I would follow the requirements and recommendations of the manufacturer. I did my two years ago with the Manus Bond and it looks great. I personally would not use the Tape product.
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Old 02-03-2019, 06:17 PM   #16
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I too have used ETERNABOND - the only tape that holds up - EVEN UNDEWATER! If you tape your roof, this is your product.
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Old 02-03-2019, 06:56 PM   #17
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I have a 2012 Tour 42QD does this model have the roof problems that you talking about. Also is there maintenance that I should be doing? Thanks for your help.

Ray
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Old 02-03-2019, 07:00 PM   #18
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I don't know Ray, we have a 2016 Tour 42QD but have only owned it for about two months. I DO know ETERNABOND - it worked for my old 2000 Discovery and my extensive water feature at our home.
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Old 02-03-2019, 07:05 PM   #19
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Thanks for the reply. Does anyone know about what maintenance I should be doing?
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Old 02-03-2019, 11:31 PM   #20
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If you or anyone else ever used silicone caulking or siliconized caulking on your coach then neither the specified Manus Adhesive Sealant nor the EternaBond is going to adhere correctly until after you completely clean off all traces of the silicone and its residue.

EternaBond is not eternal though and after it peals off when it fails it leaves a initially sticky residue that eventually gets baked on that is a lot of work to remove. When EternaBond fails it peals off in layers with the Mylar being the first to go. I have been using EternaBond here in the Deep South for well over a decade and have seen it fail numerous times on roofs out in the Florida Sunshine. On roll roofing which gets replaced every 10 years or so anyways its no big deal since your are going to remove all the roofing material, vents and flashing to replace everything with new however on a RV with a fiberglass roof you are not going to rip the fiberglass off along with the vents and awning rails to replace it all when the EternaBond eventually fails so be aware its not really eternal and it will still require regular inspection and eventually labor intensive cleanup and replacing. EternaBond also shrinks over time and gets shorter and narrower as the sun cooks it so you can also be dealing with gaps during inspection and maintenance especially if you pulled it too tight during installation. If you are using it in narrow widths where its only going to overlap less than 1/2 inch of the aluminum awning rail you may not have a seal remaining after a few years once it starts to shrink and creep. On many coaches there really is not much of the awning left exposed to tape the EternaBond too once slide covers and awnings are installed in their groove. It is very good stuff but be aware its not a miracle product and does have some limitations.

Note that the Manus has a shelf life of less than a year and too many resellers stock and sell Manus that has already expired so be very careful when purchasing Manus to ensure that its fresh and that you only purchase what you can use in a few months since it will no longer bond properly 9 months after the date of manufacture.
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