2007 39 K Journey Roof Seams

[Chmielowiec]

The shelf life is a very important consideration, I just recieved the 3 tubes purchased from Amazon and the manufacturer date is 10/26/18 which shouldn't be a problem as I plan on caulking soon.

[Chmielowiec]

I will be starting the recaulk soon and am looking for suggestions as to the best tools and methods to use for stripping the old caulk thanks

[al1florida]

To those who are asking..."Do I need .......to reseal or recaulk the roof seams?" Watch the video in reply #7.

Most every Winnebago has the same roof construction. (Maybe the smaller newer ones have a different roof design.) It is a strong, light weight roof. At the very least you should go on the roof or get a ladder and inspect the seams about once a year. If you go on the roof, lay down and shimmy over to the edge to inspect rather than squat down. It is safer to lay down. If you are uncomfortable on the roof, or unable to get on the roof, use the ladder.

Again look at the video. About 6-10 minutes in they show how flexible the fiberglass roof piece is as it fits into the wall groove. Water will seep in if the caulking is maintained.

[DryCreek]

Originally Posted by al1florida

To those who are asking..."Do I need .......to reseal or recaulk the roof seams?" Watch the video in reply #7.

Most every Winnebago has the same roof construction. (Maybe the smaller newer ones have a different roof design.) It is a strong, light weight roof. At the very least you should go on the roof or get a ladder and inspect the seams about once a year. If you go on the roof, lay down and shimmy over to the edge to inspect rather than squat down. It is safer to lay down. If you are uncomfortable on the roof, or unable to get on the roof, use the ladder.

Again look at the video. About 6-10 minutes in they show how flexible the fiberglass roof piece is as it fits into the wall groove. Water will seep in if the caulking is maintained.

Winnebago recommends inspecting the cove seal seam every six months.

Water intrusion is not usually a problem. In the bottom of the J-Channel are weep holes. Make sure they are clean when you reseal the seams.


The new Intent entry-level line has a TPO roof.

[DryCreek]

Originally Posted by Chmielowiec

I will be starting the recaulk soon and am looking for suggestions as to the best tools and methods to use for stripping the old caulk thanks

I used a five-in-one painters tool, similar to THIS ONE, but in plastic. I can't find the plastic ones any more. I didn't want to gouge the fiberglass overlay. That Manus Bond is some pretty stout stuff.

[Oldchinahand]

I shared a few thoughts earlier in this thread regarding my experiences with roof seam maintenance, including that I am once again re sealing my roof seams.

We've had a week of foul weather, but am back on the project today. Cleaning in preparation for the new sealant and ensuring a clean substrate for the Eternabond I will be laying over it leaves plenty of time to ponder this whole roof thing.

Just throwing this out for discussion.

What could be the downside to mechanically fastening the roof skin along the seams? I.e., perhaps running pop rivets or self tapping sheet metal screws every 3 or 4 inches just above the j-channel sealant bead from bow cap to stern? Then either sealing each fastener or laying Eternabond to cover.

I realize that the roof skin is free floating and expands and contracts throughout the day. But, it is already mechanically captured by numerous roof mounted accessories -- radio antennas, sat dome, tv antenna, vents, solar panels etc. Why not mechanically fasten the edges?

Fair Winds and Following Seas

[Meridian42e]

Trying to mechanically fasten it on the 3/8" to 1/2" edge you have tucked in would just damage it permanently. It is thin enough it would crack and split and separate from the fastener in my opinion.

[Meridian42e]

Originally Posted by Raylc

I have a 2012 Tour 42QD does this model have the roof problems that you talking about. Also is there maintenance that I should be doing? Thanks for your help.

Ray

Ray, suspect it is. I thought my 2013 was refined, but just heard of a 2015 Journey popping the roof along the seams so I watch mine like a hawk.

The dark colors in the full body paint tend to have problems with the sealant before the lighter colors.

[Chmielowiec]

I would not want to permenatly fasten the roof fiberglass for a couple reasons, the need for the roof to flex, apperance and as someone stated eariler the resale value.

[jaym368]

I also have a 2007 39k and have been on the roof many times. I've never noticed a problem and have never heard of it. Check it over really good before fixing something that may not need repair. I wash the roof twice a year. Good Luck.

[al1florida]

Originally Posted by jaym368

I also have a 2007 39k and have been on the roof many times. I've never noticed a problem and have never heard of it. Check it over really good before fixing something that may not need repair. I wash the roof twice a year. Good Luck.

A statement such as "I've never noticed a problem" implies to me a cursory look while being on the roof.
Could you elaborate if your time on the roof includes laying down on the roof or squatting down on the edge and closely examining the edges looking for cracks or splits in the calking in what looks like a gutter on the roof to sidewall seam?

It is also best, if during the inspection, folks press on the fiberglass roof material where in fits into the sidewall seam to see if it moves away from the outer edge.

The link to the video in reply #7 has some excellent visuals of what to look for. You don't have to watch all of the video. Just go to minute 5 of the video for the start of the explanation then to minute 9:50 for a close up view of the roof to wall seam.

Here is a repeat of the link to the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJz7...ature=youtu.be

[Raylc]

I am about to run the Manus Bond 75 in some places on my roof. I have a 2012 Winne Tour 42QD. I have washed the roof but wonder if I should clean the area I am going to caulk with something else. If you have any advise please let me know. Thanks

Ray

[Oldchinahand]

If Manus Bond does not recommend a specific product, I would wipe the area down with mineral spirits (paint thinner) to remove any petroleum based contaminants. Then follow that with a wipedown with lacquer thinner to remove the mineral spirit residue.

Especially with the latter, goggles and gloves will do you proud.

Fair Winds and Following Seas

[Raylc]

Thanks for your help Terry I will do that.

Ray

[Raylc]

I bet if you lose a roof at 65 it's going to be real ugly real quick.

Ray

[ftodaro]

Originally Posted by Raylc

I am about to run the Manus Bond 75 in some places on my roof. I have a 2012 Winne Tour 42QD. I have washed the roof but wonder if I should clean the area I am going to caulk with something else. If you have any advise please let me know. Thanks

Ray

I am not sure if they recommend a cleaner or not, I used a good paint scraper with a pointed tip and cleaned out as much as I could. I then used mineral sprites and in some places i had to use acetone for the heavy duty spots. I did this two years ago and it still looks good.

[Raylc]

Thanks Frank, I bought mineral spirits and acetone today not sure which I might need. I am going to get on the roof tomorrow and get stared. My RV is in a garage so the weather isn't an issue. Thanks for your reply.

Ray

[al1florida]

Originally Posted by Raylc

Thanks Frank, I bought mineral spirits and acetone today not sure which I might need. I am going to get on the roof tomorrow and get stared. My RV is in a garage so the weather isn't an issue. Thanks for your reply.

Ray

Be very careful with the acetone, especially in an enclosed area. It is highly flammable and the fumes are very harmful if inhaled.

[BobC]

Like anything else, by the time you get to the last patch, you'll be an expert.

[Raylc]

Bob you are correct my friend