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Old 05-21-2012, 01:46 PM   #21
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You should be happy with the Winnebago, they build good stuff. The chassis is great as well. Just have the things attended too as mentioned and go enjoy yourself. Have a great rving season.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:31 PM   #22
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We have a 2003 33V with the Ford engine and a Banks addition.
The real issues we have had were a leaky dome over the shower. I new dome at the factory solved that problem. And yes the leaky front windows. One developed a crack from the top down and that was the introduction to the rusty frame. The new front window was replaced after a grinding of the frame removed most of the rust. It has been OK so far.
At almost 10 years this has been a very reliable coach with very minor problems, we even lived in it for a year.

Hit the road and enjoy all the wonderful vistas along the way!

Ellen
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:48 PM   #23
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Adventurer

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Originally Posted by Steve N Sal View Post
You should be happy with the Winnebago, they build good stuff. The chassis is great as well. Just have the things attended too as mentioned and go enjoy yourself. Have a great rving season.
Thanks Steve and Sal...

I have the workhorse with the Allison tranny...it wines a bit (the tranny) at low speed...I assume thats normal?

Thanks, and everyone have a great and Safe holiday weekend...we're headed to Lanesboro, MN....biking capital of the upper midwest....in the 33V!
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:18 PM   #24
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the allision does whine alil... but it could also be your power steering/brake boost pump.
You can remove some fluid from the reservoir and put some lucas conditioner in it to see if it quiets down. Mine did.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:44 PM   #25
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Brake recall

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Originally Posted by GNP99 View Post
Here is a link to the Workhorse brake recall resource center. You can enter your VIN # and see if your affected by the recall.
Brake Recall Resource Center

Thank you GNP99, appreciate the link, will check it out!

Erik
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:58 PM   #26
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We bought the 33' 2005 Adventurer a year ago, tried it out once and plan to do three months in it this summer/fall. So far we have had no issues we know of. It's on the 22.5 chassis, Workhorse. Can't wait to finally get on the road. All we are familiar with is spending money on new tires and keeping the batteries charged and short drives to keep things charged and running.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:43 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by BarbRN
We bought the 33' 2005 Adventurer a year ago, tried it out once and plan to do three months in it this summer/fall. So far we have had no issues we know of. It's on the 22.5 chassis, Workhorse. Can't wait to finally get on the road. All we are familiar with is spending money on new tires and keeping the batteries charged and short drives to keep things charged and running.
First real trip this weekend...I m impressed how well the 33v workhorse chasis handles on the interstate...very smooth and steady at 70 mph....no wind though...other than a few cosmetic items that came with the coach ( pealing graphics that the dealer is replacing as part of the pre-buy) and the lower part of the entrance door delaminating due to rain getting in the seam from door being left open, I am overall very impressed with the quality of this coach! After 40,000 miles it is still tight and everything is working.

Busy planning the great American western vacation with the wife and teens...Mt Rushmore, Yellowstone, Estes Park, etc.....

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Old 05-27-2012, 12:42 PM   #28
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Great report. If you keep it at 60 you will get a little better gas milage.

Keep us posted on how you trip go.
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Old 05-28-2012, 04:28 PM   #29
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You're right, we kept it at 60 on I-90 plus it rode even smoother especially with the gusty winds today...just got home and the trip went well with no problems...
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:47 PM   #30
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Glad to hear.

We leave next week for Bonnaroo in Tennessee. It is a 1700 mile round trip that we do in a week. I keep it at 60-62 and slower on the hills.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:25 AM   #31
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Hertzair,
Welcome - we have a 2005 33V Adventurer and have been more than happy with it - we have only a few major problems. I am tracking a potential oil problem of very high iron and copper readings (as analyzed by Blackstone Labs from oil samples I send them) = however after 40K plus a real problem has not developed.
This past winter we had a furnace failure that was ultimately caused by faulting wiring which was a beast to track down (14 hours tech time). Winnebago tech support was not good in that they could not tell my tech where the connections were between the furnace and thermostat - wound up being under the shower floor.
Runs good - drives great - we like it.
You might want to check the year built - ours is a 2005 box on a 2004 chassis.

Good luck
Jack
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:40 AM   #32
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Jack, did you switch to synthetic motor oil recently?

We are experiencing the same issue here but I am told since we switched to synthetic that we could be getting high readings.

Here is my post form a couple of months ago. Link Here
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:54 AM   #33
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Bugs512
No - I switched early at about 14000 miles - the high iron and copper readings have been with me since the first report. I started the sampling at first change because the chassis sat for 19 month before Winnebago put the box on it - and I had a similar problem many years ago with a Dodge chasis.
My current Copper reading is 84 down from 122 and iron is 25 down from 61.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:59 AM   #34
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OK, at least the numbers are coming down. How often are you changing the oil?

Blackstone recommended to me to change it at the same milage interval to get more accurate reading. So I am changing it every 5,000
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:24 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgray View Post
Most likely built on a W-20 or W-22 Workhorse chassis. You need to make certain the Bosch Brake recall campaign has been completed and unless you have good maintenance records proving it isn't needed, drain out the Dexron III from the tranny and replace with TranSynd ATF. Swap the spin on tranny filter-reuse magnet. Weigh and set tire pressure accordingly, go USE it!
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We have a 2004 33v and had the brake recall done when we purchased it (november 2010) along with new tires.

Items I have done myself include:

Repair rust and reseal windshields.
New shocks (Koni)
Flush antifreeze and replace with dexcool
Replace serpentine belt
Replace transmission fluid with TranSynd (twice)
Oil Changes / switched to Mobil 1
Fuel Filter and adapter replacement
Air Filter

Generator:
Oil changes
Airfilter
Spark plugs
Fuel filter

Other items covered under warranty were. The rear cap separating at the floor in the rear of the coach.
Springs for the Leveling jacks
Solenoids for the leveling jacks
Replacement of the gas valves on the range
Microwave repair

So the first year of ownership we had some issues. This year us better. I did discover that my refrigerator keeps temperature on electric better then propane. So that is another item to look at before our next trip.

If you run ito any issues make sure to ask here. Great people here to answer any questions.

Best of luck with your Winnebago.
Hummmmmmmmmmm.
Just wondering, we got our 2001 Winnebago Adventurer 32V this year and after draining the torque converter and the transmission pan, I replaced the tranny fluid with Dex/Merc. According to Winnebago Cust Svc., this was the recommended factory replacement. I was also warned not to mix Merc 5 with the original stuff.

So, all seems to be running well in a few short trips we recently took.

BUT, I was wondering what is TranSynd? I have never heard of this and do you recommend that I use this the next tranny fluid change?
I did not blow out the cooler, so there was maybe a couple of old quarts left in the tranny. Didn't concern me with the volume that I replaced.

Thanks,
Regards,
Paul
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:35 AM   #36
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The original poster has a Workhorse chassis.

My guess is that you are on a ford chassis? If so you would not use TranSynd. It is for use in the Workhorse Chassis / Allison Transmissions.
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Old 09-01-2012, 04:21 AM   #37
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Quote:
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The original poster has a Workhorse chassis.

My guess is that you are on a ford chassis? If so you would not use TranSynd. It is for use in the Workhorse Chassis / Allison Transmissions.
Yep, the light bulb just came on.
I have a Ford F53 chassis.
Thanks for the wake-up.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:04 AM   #38
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Rust is serious issue on all RV's so as the Rv is fairy new I would go under the RV and find the weak spots. At this point it is not totally rusted thru so now is the best time to clean, sand and paint. Put a minimum of 3 layers in different colors, starting with a light color (what ever you laying around) and end with black. I use different colors as its easier to see if I did a good job. Also the storage units tend to rust so even if they look ok now I would just put a layer on it. Breaks are an issue if you don't use the unit often and store if outside. Store it for a year without driving and you most likely need to replace the breaks ($1500.-). If it has an Onan generator and it has not been treated for rust your already to late. Its build on a metal setting that rusts in 2 or 3 years totally thru. I just let it go until the generator falls onto the ground. Other obvious places are the battery holders and the step under the entrance door. This seems like a lot of work now but it will pay back in time and especially when you want to sell.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:22 PM   #39
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We just bought a 2010 Winnebago adventurer 32h. Does anyone have any problems with the floors getting too hot when driving? Heat is coming out of the floor vents and it is uncomfortable to walk in bare feet because the floor is so hot.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:57 PM   #40
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We just bought a 2010 Winnebago adventurer 32h. Does anyone have any problems with the floors getting too hot when driving? Heat is coming out of the floor vents and it is uncomfortable to walk in bare feet because the floor is so hot.
did you check the switch on the dash that says coach heat? it is 3 position, high, low, and off. off is the middle position. if it is off and you are still getting heat take the regester between the front seats off and feel or get mirror and a flashlight and look or feel towards the front for a door that should only be open when the fan is on. it may be stuck open or something may be jamed in it to keep it open. good luck.
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