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Old 07-09-2014, 05:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlott2k View Post
I also replaced my tube tv in our 96 Adventurer w/ a flat panel LG lcd. I also used the swing arm like yours but I installed mine 90 degrees to what yours is. Instead of unlatching and swinging out , mine swings down. I found this helps with neck strain from "looking up" to watch movies etc. If it's a short stay or a short tv view I leave it up. I re-used the arm/bracket that held the old tv in place as a "strap" loop over the hinged swing arm and thats what holds it in place.
I thought about that, and it's still on the table. It wouldn't take but an hour or so to complete that since the registration marks are still on everything. I do like watching TV from the recliner, though. So much so, that on all but one night out, I've fallen asleep in the recliner with the TV on!

I recently had to replace the original front LED TV because of a failure. The new TV (same size, same manufacturer, different model) has a slightly different back shell, so over the winter, I will need to either remake or modify the cabinet to fit properly, until then, it looks fine.

Scott
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Old 07-10-2014, 04:54 AM   #22
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An HDMI cable long enough to reach the back of the motor home would need an HDMI amplifier or you would probably loose so much that you would be better off just using the existing coax and another player/converter in the other areas. WiFi hooked to a tablet as a video server or getting a BlueRay Player that can be set up as a Wifi video server could be a easier option. The price of some of the HDMI extenders can be ten times the cost of a second Blue-ray player.
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:21 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunkonu23 View Post
I thought about that, and it's still on the table. It wouldn't take but an hour or so to complete that since the registration marks are still on everything. I do like watching TV from the recliner, though. So much so, that on all but one night out, I've fallen asleep in the recliner with the TV on!

I recently had to replace the original front LED TV because of a failure. The new TV (same size, same manufacturer, different model) has a slightly different back shell, so over the winter, I will need to either remake or modify the cabinet to fit properly, until then, it looks fine.

Scott
I left the plastic trim bexel (openening) in place. When I lift the tv it rests against it.
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlott2k View Post
I also replaced my tube tv in our 96 Adventurer w/ a flat panel LG lcd. I also used the swing arm like yours but I installed mine 90 degrees to what yours is. Instead of unlatching and swinging out , mine swings down. I found this helps with neck strain from "looking up" to watch movies etc. If it's a short stay or a short tv view I leave it up. I re-used the arm/bracket that held the old tv in place as a "strap" loop over the hinged swing arm and thats what holds it in place.

Who's swing arm mount did you use and what size TV? Have you had any problems with it
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:45 PM   #25
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My install idea was to be able to drop the tv to a better viewing height. 1st I measured between the 2 glass panels and used that measurement to buy the biggest tv that would fit and I could still open the doors. It worked out to be a LG 26".I mounted the swing arm to the steel baseplate that the old tube tv sat on.I used a 2x6 to raise the mount so the tv sits at the correct height when stored. I used 4 bolts and accessed the underside of the steel plate by renoving the existing tv trim bezel. I could reach a wrench under it and fed the bolts down from the top. It took more that a couple tries to locate the bracket correctly both right to left and up /down. Also I had to adjust for and aft so the tv fits tight when stored in the upright position.In this pic you can see the old tv hold down arm I call the u-bracket. It has a plywood spacer that I zap strapped on .
Click image for larger version

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I used the old steel "u" bracket (that held the old tv down) to lock the folding arm in the up/travel position.
Click image for larger version

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You can see I had to add a 3/4" spacer of plywood to pull the arm in tight to the existing bezel. From left to right is tv, steel u-bracket with plywood spacer, and swing arm.( I should clean the old foam off and screw thru the bracket into the plywood!)
The steel u bracket is hinged on the 2 existing bolts. I loosen and tighten them with a 9/16 socket on an extension ratchet . Access is through the glass doors. ("Hint". To hold the glass doors open , open the wood doors beside them after the glass doors and their props will hold both doors open!)
I'm planning on changing those 2 nuts to wing nuts and tighten by hand.
This is what it looks like stored .
Click image for larger version

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ID:	67494
When I drop it down the tv I simply hang a towel over the steel u bracket and swing it up to 12:00 to hide the hole and cables.
I installed a dvd player behind the r/h glass door and connected directly to the tv with a HDMI cable. Both units are plugged into the 110v outlet in the r/h cabinet. I have a LG dvd player that was only about 6" deep but I did have to cut the wall board behind it so I can close the glass door.
Attachment 67498
This is it dropped, without the towel to hide the wires
Click image for larger version

Name:	Camera to july 2014 1495.jpg
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So just posting this I think I could improve on this by a)Screwing the plywood spacer to the u arm and b) installing 4 - 3/4" deep rubber bumpers on4 corners of the existing tv bezel so the tv sits tighter against it, Right now I have thick peel and stick foam on the back of the tv's 4 corners and it does work very well with no rattles. I have driven with this setup for 3 years and many thousand kilometers with zero problems.
Attachment 67503
Side View.
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Old 07-11-2014, 04:34 AM   #26
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That's interesting. I do like the idea of the TV swinging down. My mounting swing arm is admittedly overkill. In order for me to do this, I would rotate my swing arm bracket 90 degrees, extend the pull chain (for the lock actuator), then drill a hole in the passenger side plastic cowl for the pull chain. Since my Hopper rests in the original TV opening, I would likely just leave the opening open when the TV is in use or make a small, plexiglass sheet that has a slot to accommodate the extended swing arm. It is doable. Question is, would my wife like it as she normally sits in the dinette. The angle from the dinette is good for her.

One issue that I had that is partially solved is using the "surround" system in the motor home. My original LED TV did not have an audio output. When I had to replace the original LED TV, a priority was finding one with variable audio output. That is not as easy as it sounds. So, I found one with an audio output (TOSLink). That said, I got a small headphone amp that accepts line-in and has variable audio output. TOSLink to the headphone amp, headphone output to the existing RCA ended cables (mini-to-RCA cable with female-female adapters). Volume is adjusted on the headphone amp. Had the original TV survived, I could have done a similar thing with the TOSLink out of the Hopper (this is how I have it done in the stick house) into the same headphone amp.

The new TV is a Samsung SmartTV. One odd issue is this: When streaming Netflix, the audio output on the TV is disabled so we have to use the TV speaker. I haven't been able to find a setting that allows the TV's audio output to be active when streaming. I'll search around to see if there is a solution other than an external device like a Chromecast, Apple TV or Roku.

Scott
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:41 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlott2k View Post
My install idea was to be able to drop the tv to a better viewing height. 1st I measured between the 2 glass panels and used that measurement to buy the biggest tv that would fit and I could still open the doors. It worked out to be a LG 26".I mounted the swing arm to the steel baseplate that the old tube tv sat on.I used a 2x6 to raise the mount so the tv sits at the correct height when stored. I used 4 bolts and accessed the underside of the steel plate by renoving the existing tv trim bezel. I could reach a wrench under it and fed the bolts down from the top. It took more that a couple tries to locate the bracket correctly both right to left and up /down. Also I had to adjust for and aft so the tv fits tight when stored in the upright position.In this pic you can see the old tv hold down arm I call the u-bracket. It has a plywood spacer that I zap strapped on .
Attachment 67492
I used the old steel "u" bracket (that held the old tv down) to lock the folding arm in the up/travel position.
Attachment 67493
You can see I had to add a 3/4" spacer of plywood to pull the arm in tight to the existing bezel. From left to right is tv, steel u-bracket with plywood spacer, and swing arm.( I should clean the old foam off and screw thru the bracket into the plywood!)
The steel u bracket is hinged on the 2 existing bolts. I loosen and tighten them with a 9/16 socket on an extension ratchet . Access is through the glass doors. ("Hint". To hold the glass doors open , open the wood doors beside them after the glass doors and their props will hold both doors open!)
I'm planning on changing those 2 nuts to wing nuts and tighten by hand.
This is what it looks like stored .
Attachment 67494
When I drop it down the tv I simply hang a towel over the steel u bracket and swing it up to 12:00 to hide the hole and cables.
I installed a dvd player behind the r/h glass door and connected directly to the tv with a HDMI cable. Both units are plugged into the 110v outlet in the r/h cabinet. I have a LG dvd player that was only about 6" deep but I did have to cut the wall board behind it so I can close the glass door.
Attachment 67498
This is it dropped, without the towel to hide the wires
Attachment 67499
So just posting this I think I could improve on this by a)Screwing the plywood spacer to the u arm and b) installing 4 - 3/4" deep rubber bumpers on4 corners of the existing tv bezel so the tv sits tighter against it, Right now I have thick peel and stick foam on the back of the tv's 4 corners and it does work very well with no rattles. I have driven with this setup for 3 years and many thousand kilometers with zero problems.
Attachment 67503
Side View.
Thanks, that helps a lot!!!! Will be mounting a 32" soon.
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:56 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Hilley View Post
BonnieT doesn't have a TV with HDMI
I see that now, I was responding to her first post where I understood she wanted to replace her TV with one that had different connections.

We never watch TV from bed so we removed the rear TV and now use that space for Anne's knitting supplies. I made two (almost) matching raised panel doors to cover the space. Future owners can reinstall a flat screen TV in the future if they wish, wiring is still there.
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:20 AM   #29
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Dunkonu23, I hate the design of all these lcd's that have down/reverse firing speakers. Then you need to buy a soundbar thats as much as the tv.But thats the price of keeping the front "clean". I'm going to try a headphone extension cord and plug into the audio input on my indash cd player. Then run the audio thu the radio using the house batteries . I upgraded the casette/radio years ago to a Pioneer cd that has usb and mini pin inputs on front. They go pretty cheap now, about 100.00.
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:37 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlott2k View Post
Dunkonu23, I hate the design of all these lcd's that have down/reverse firing speakers. Then you need to buy a soundbar thats as much as the tv.But thats the price of keeping the front "clean". I'm going to try a headphone extension cord and plug into the audio input on my indash cd player. Then run the audio thu the radio using the house batteries . I upgraded the casette/radio years ago to a Pioneer cd that has usb and mini pin inputs on front. They go pretty cheap now, about 100.00.
That sounds like a plan. If your TV has a headphone output (read variable audio output), you might be golden. You would be able to use your TV's volume control on the remote to adjust volume. Just don't run a line level output into your radio unless it can handle it.

This is the issue I have: I have to turn a knob! Oh, the horror! Back in the day, it was the only way. That is the only way unless you had a TV with a remote--then if pocketed change jingled just the right way, channels or other things might change! How things have changed and how spoiled I've become!

I did think about using the output of the headphone amp to the radio in my motor home, but thought that it would be cleaner to keep everything in the cabinet. I already use a cassette adapter for Sirius/XM from my iPhone to the radio.

Scott
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