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Old 07-02-2022, 06:16 AM   #1
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12 Volt Electrical Problem 2021 Adventurer 29B

So, I've got a 12 Volt Electrical Problem on our 2021 WBGO Adventurer 29B Class A.

Symptoms: Turn on Chassis Batteries at salesman switch but NO 12 volt throughout coach, except for dash 12 volt socket.
  • Batteries are fully charged (solar). Checked fuses, breakers, and battery connections; all seem good.
  • I can hear the battery disconnect relay "click" when the switch is used. The relay is behind the breaker panel in the drivers' side first compartment.
  • Connected to shore power. No 12 volt, but do have 110 to TV, Microwave, etc.
  • Started generator OK. Still no 12 volt, but do have 110 to TV, Microwave, etc.
  • Downloaded all wiring diagrams. Researched and found that relay is a Tyco 1-1414939-4 Battery Disconnect Relay. Ordered the replacement as I "think" it might be a bad relay (I'm not comfortable jumping the relay as it's in a awkward spot for me to get to and I'd hate to make the situation worse).

Any other suggestions for a possible fix would be deeply appreciated!
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Old 07-02-2022, 07:38 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hermes2 View Post
So, I've got a similar 12 Volt Electrical Problem on our 2021 WBGO Adventurer 29B Class A.

Symptoms: Turn on Chassis Batteries at salesman switch but NO 12 volt throughout coach, except for dash 12 volt socket.
  • Batteries are fully charged (solar). Checked fuses, breakers, and battery connections; all seem good.
  • I can hear the battery disconnect relay "click" when the switch is used. The relay is behind the breaker panel in the drivers' side first compartment.
  • Connected to shore power. No 12 volt, but do have 110 to TV, Microwave, etc.
  • Started generator OK. Still no 12 volt, but do have 110 to TV, Microwave, etc.
  • Downloaded all wiring diagrams. Researched and found that relay is a Tyco 1-1414939-4 Battery Disconnect Relay. Ordered the replacement as I "think" it might be a bad relay (I'm not comfortable jumping the relay as it's in a awkward spot for me to get to and I'd hate to make the situation worse).

Any other suggestions for a possible fix would be deeply appreciated!
Sounds what you say may be true, but then there is not a lot of info on the newer drawings to look really deep,so we have to hunt for "hints".
One hint may be on this snip of the drawing as it shows a fuse that I think is between the isolation manager/ bim and the panel to feed all 12VDC to the coach.
It does not give me location specific but there are three mega fuses near the batteries which may need checked as easier than pulling the relay out to test it.

Are you familiar with the mega fuse, to spot them near the batteries? There are three of them there and they tend to give me trouble with getting corroded which would seem more likely than the relay going bad so soon?

Could be bad relay, could be blown fuse but corrosion is pretty common, too. They may just look like a set of connections but it is a big fuse in between and each end gives a place to corrode!

This code chart for tape on the battery cables may help sort which cables are the ones to check?
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Old 07-02-2022, 08:04 AM   #3
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Perhaps it’s just a typo, but you said “ Turn on Chassis Batteries at salesman switch” and that the result is only power at the RV’s dash. Well, the chassis battery is the battery that powers the coach’s chassis, not the House. You should have two battery disconnects… one for the chassis and one for the house - because they are separate battery banks.

So, was it a typo or did you only turn on the Chassis battery disconnect?

PS. I moved your post out of that other thread. When asking a new question it’s always best to start a new thread. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-02-2022, 09:08 AM   #4
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Good point on two switches but there may be something really simple at play to mess with your mind!!
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Old 07-02-2022, 09:19 AM   #5
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Welcome to Winnieowners.

I'm glad you took my suggestion and found your way here from IRV2. Morich points out the same fuses I mentioned on IRV2. He's "the man" when sorting out electrical issues, so you're in good hands.
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Old 07-02-2022, 09:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
Good point on two switches but there may be something really simple at play to mess with your mind!!
Correct

That Note is trying to clarify whether the Salesman Switch is on or off. That is called House Switch by some, and Coach Switch by others (namely Winnebago) See the name on Switch as it says Coach Battery.


The Chassis battery is not in the equation of the note.

The Green light is simply to say the 12v buss is hot. If you have Shorepower or Generator power that light will be green regardless of whether the House/Coach battery is switch is on/off.
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Old 07-02-2022, 10:12 AM   #7
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Thanks for that info on the shore/gen power overriding the House battery disconnect switch. I had not thought of that fact. In fact, I've never tested that on my coach.

I have a strong habit of turning off both switches when I store the RV and turning them both on upon entering the motorhome when I pick it up from storage. And during storage is the only time those switches are off on my RV.

But wait... I don't have a converter on my RV it's an inverter/charger system. I wonder if this override function is only in RVs powered by a converter????
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Old 07-02-2022, 10:17 AM   #8
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Quote:
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That Chassis - Coach wording has always been a point of confusion for me. I work hard at always calling it Chassis - House. I understand the Coach = House concept but find it too close in meaning to Chassis. Maybe it's the two "Cs" but for me It's Chassis and House switches.
I agree but Winnebago confuses things in it's Cortana 3-D parts catalog by putting both under the heading "Chassis Wiring".
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Old 07-02-2022, 10:34 AM   #9
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So for the OP, the assumption is he turned on Salesman switch aka House / Coach battery switch, labeled Coach Switch by Winnebago.

That light is green or it is not, OP must tell us. If it is green I do not see how he is NOT getting 12v because the green is saying the 12v buss is active (hot)

If it is not green (on or off) which I suspect may be the case; he may have issue with the converter.


Related:


I don't have an Adventurer, so my coach did not come with Chassis disconnect switch. It was the 1st thing I had installed. See far right of picture. I have only used it a few times. but it is really nice to have if you do not have one. If you need it, you need it. I don't think the Chassis battery has any impact on OPs issue.
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Old 07-02-2022, 11:54 AM   #10
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If it is not green (on or off) which I suspect may be the case; he may have issue with the converter.
My understanding is that he doesn't have 12V power both on and off shore power. The converter wouldn't be a factor when disconnected from shore power. A disconnected battery, either as a result of a switch, a fuse or some other issue would be a problem both on or off shore power.
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Old 07-02-2022, 12:32 PM   #11
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My understanding is that he doesn't have 12V power both on and off shore power. The converter wouldn't be a factor when disconnected from shore power. A disconnected battery, either as a result of a switch, a fuse or some other issue would be a problem both on or off shore power.
My point was to get at what the green light says to confirm.

Forget shorepower for a moment?

With no shore power and no generator; when Coach Battery switch is On is Green light On/Off?
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Old 07-02-2022, 02:27 PM   #12
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What I'm reading is that a person could be plugged in and see the green light on but the switch actually be off, so no power if one went by the light being on to verify the switch and relay were correct!

But that needs some testing to see if it only the switch being off as it would be really easy to think it is on when it burns all the time, on or off if plugged to shore power!

This would be a good time to look at how the light is powered. It seems to say to me that it will be lit whether you have a battery or not when you are plugged in, so if it stays lit, is the coach/house battery on or off?
I wanted to mention it with the thought that they may be assuming the power switch is on because they see the light.

But that may not be the right way to read what the manual says. We don't really have the good info to tell us what the light really means. Testing when it is all working right may be the best way to find out what the light means.
If it means you get coach things powered when plugged in whether the switch is on or off, that sounds really dangerous to anybody who wants to work on the 12V and turned the power off at the switch????
The 12 Volt power will usually not kill you but it is certainly quick to weld your tools to the box!
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Old 07-02-2022, 03:41 PM   #13
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What I'm reading is that a person could be plugged in and see the green light on but the switch actually be off, so no power if one went by the light being on to verify the switch and relay were correct!

But that needs some testing to see if it only the switch being off as it would be really easy to think it is on when it burns all the time, on or off if plugged to shore power!

This would be a good time to look at how the light is powered. It seems to say to me that it will be lit whether you have a battery or not when you are plugged in, so if it stays lit, is the coach/house battery on or off?
I wanted to mention it with the thought that they may be assuming the power switch is on because they see the light.

But that may not be the right way to read what the manual says. We don't really have the good info to tell us what the light really means. Testing when it is all working right may be the best way to find out what the light means.
If it means you get coach things powered when plugged in whether the switch is on or off, that sounds really dangerous to anybody who wants to work on the 12V and turned the power off at the switch????
The 12 Volt power will usually not kill you but it is certainly quick to weld your tools to the box!
Bingo!!!

And here is my belief, and I am sticking with it because I have seen this rodeo.

Contrary to what one may think; the green LED light is NOT a indicator the House/Coach disconnect switch is ON / OFF. The Toggle button is labeled and tell you the position of ON/OFF for only the House / Coach disconnect switch. The manual is telling you what the switch does. It does not say anything about the light. It should be expanded upon by Winnebago, but I believe what is there is correct.

When you see the Green LED, it means there is power on the Buss regardless of switch's position.

So naturally if no external source of power, and you flip the switch ON/OFF it should look as the Green light goes ON/OFF with the switch because you are disconnecting from batteries and reconnecting from batteries the 12vdc power to the Buss.

However, if we progress forward; assuming the above is clear; then OP should set House / Coach Disconnect Switch to OFF, then connect shorepower (or start generator for that matter) and see if the Green LED comes ON? If it does not, that is OP's problem. Since there is known 120vac INPUT on the Inverter's ATS (Not the main ATS in the electrical bay), the 12vdc OUTPUT power should be from the 120vac sources of Shorepower or Generator) through the Converter to the 12vdc Buss. This is why I cited the possibility of issue with Converter.
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Old 07-02-2022, 07:35 PM   #14
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OP here. Typo: Should have said Coach/House switch.

I turn OFF both Coach and Chassis disconnects when the unit is stored and ON when we head out.

When turning ON the Coach/House switch, there is NO green light. There is NO 12 volt power to any internal system (lights, AC controls, fridge, power controls, etc.), only to the 12v sockets on the dash.

Same condition (no 12 volt to internal systems) whether system is on shore or generator power regardless whether switch is on or off. However, there is 120 VAC to internal systems when connected to shore or generator power.

I can hear the 12 volt disconnect relay clicking when used, but haven't been able to test it. Right now I'm assuming that it is the most likely point of failure, having checked connections, fuses and breakers to the best of my ability.

Thanks for all of the feedback!
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Old 07-02-2022, 09:31 PM   #15
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OP here. Typo: Should have said Coach/House switch.

I turn OFF both Coach and Chassis disconnects when the unit is stored and ON when we head out.

When turning ON the Coach/House switch, there is NO green light. There is NO 12 volt power to any internal system (lights, AC controls, fridge, power controls, etc.), only to the 12v sockets on the dash.

Same condition (no 12 volt to internal systems) whether system is on shore or generator power regardless whether switch is on or off. However, there is 120 VAC to internal systems when connected to shore or generator power.

I can hear the 12 volt disconnect relay clicking when used, but haven't been able to test it. Right now I'm assuming that it is the most likely point of failure, having checked connections, fuses and breakers to the best of my ability.

Thanks for all of the feedback!
This confirms what I was thinking. Have you checked the fuses on the actual Converter? Have you confirmed 13v plus output from the Converter?

If this is your failure path, when resolved; you should have power restored. Hopefully just need to replace fuse on converter.
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Old 08-01-2022, 03:39 PM   #16
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OP here. Just a quick follow-up. Had a well-qualified RV repair shop take a look at it. Spent all day tracing lines and could not find a fault anywhere. Still, didn't have any 12 volt power. The tech rechecked all connections, and something must have 'clicked' into place, as after he buttoned it up, everything worked. Suspect that there was a bad ground somewhere that caused the issue. But because they couldn't pinpoint the issue, they kindly only charged me for one hour of labor, bless them. Just completed three weeks and 2,300 miles on the road with no issues.
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Old 08-09-2022, 11:28 AM   #17
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OP here. Final follow-up! Had the same "no 12 VDC throughout coach" issue come up a few days ago. ARRGGGHHHHH! Again tested all circuits at the battery and disconnects. All good. Came to realize that if there's no 12 VDC through batteries OR through shore/generator power, then there MUST be an issue with converter or its connections. Again, most likely a bad ground. Checked the connections and grounds to/from the converter to the 12 VDC breaker panel and found one loose ground wire. Tightened it 1/2 turn and everything worked!

Problem solved. Not cheaply -- nearly $300 in parts and diagnosis work, plus a lot of my own time poring over diagrams and reviewing all of the related posts on this forum. I've learned a lot in the process.

Still, falling back on my old Navy BEE training from 50 years ago -- "check the simple stuff first" -- is usually the thing to do.
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