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Old 02-23-2015, 05:47 PM   #1
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06 Journey rear engine door

Has anyone had the epoxy let go on the louvered rear coolant/engine access door? If so, how did you fix it? Other than using new epoxy. I thinking about using 4 screws through the fiberglass into the metal frame, then putting colormatched paint on the flathead screws.
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Old 02-23-2015, 05:50 PM   #2
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I did ours with some nice chrome automotive screws.
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Old 02-23-2015, 06:03 PM   #3
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Our 05 Itasca Horizon had the same problem 2 years ago. I cleaned the metal portion with Lacquer thinner and did the same to the impression it left in the epoxy. I applied a generous portion of JB Weld and clamped the metal parts in place over night. Have been holding fine for 36000 miles
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Old 02-23-2015, 06:13 PM   #4
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Yep, lacquer thinner and JB Weld.
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Old 02-23-2015, 06:17 PM   #5
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06 Journey rear engine door

I had an 08 Itasca Meridian where the fiberglass engine hatch came loose from the metal brackets. I too used several tubes of JD Weld epoxy and c-clamps overnight to repair it and it worked great. Make sure you get the right JD Weld that will bond fiberglass to metal. Good luck.
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Old 02-23-2015, 06:20 PM   #6
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When I had a 2002 Journey with same issues (I had other panels release) I used four stainless button head 1/4 x 20 bolts on the engine access door. It looked fine.
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Old 02-23-2015, 07:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooperhawk View Post
Yep, lacquer thinner and JB Weld.
X2.. + a little wire brush
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Old 02-24-2015, 10:13 AM   #8
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Thanks for the input...I never thought about JB weld. That's a great idea. This forum is very helpful.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:39 PM   #9
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I am going to make that repair this weekend and was going to use LockTight marine epoxy, but after reading this thread I might use JB Weld. I was also going to remove the bracket and drill some 1/8" holes in the flat part of the bracket so the epoxy can ooze through the holes for added strength.

What is the "Correct" JB Weld?
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:12 PM   #10
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I used the one with the steel fibers embedded in it just because it sounded Manley. I wire brushed the glass and the steel stock, then wiped it down with Acetone. I ran a bead along the entire top of the support.
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:56 PM   #11
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I had the lovers fall out of this coach. I used pop rivets on each side between the lovers. Looks okay and works great. Truly, the repair is very acceptable.
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:10 PM   #12
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You can get 3M 08115 panel bond adhesive at an auto paint and body supplier to re adhere the body to the metal parts. Cleaning and roughing up the surface helps. Also allowing the glue to wrap around the parts helps. 05' Itasca Meridian. Good luck.
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Old 02-27-2015, 12:51 PM   #13
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Panel release repair

We had same issue on our '02 Journey. Got a bondo fiberglass repair kit at auto parts place. Sand a bit to get into clean fiberglass, clean it up, and you are ready to go. Sort of messy stuff but easy to use and pretty permanent. Allow for the thickness of the old adhesive, it was pretty thick on ours. Be aware, that paint on the bumper scratches REAL easy so set something soft on your sawhorse or whatever. Mine now looks like a cat worked it over.
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Old 02-28-2015, 08:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
I had the lovers fall out of this coach. I used pop rivets on each side between the lovers. Looks okay and works great. Truly, the repair is very acceptable.
And no one caught this misspelling? Here are pictures of my louver repair. The dust is a part of Southern Cal water shortage. This repair was done with aluminum pop rivets and has held well for about a year, as I recall.

Rick Y
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Old 03-01-2015, 07:01 PM   #15
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The rear hatch on my Journey came loose and fell when I opened it about a year ago. It hit the ground and damaged it on the corner, so I had to have it repaired and the paint touched up. I removed the metal hinge assembly and on saw horses, re-glued the hinge to the fiberglass and clamped it to dry. Before gluing I sanded the metal hinge and used a grinder to remove some of the adhesive on the fiberglass.


I used construction adhesive. After it dried I then drilled two holes on each side of the hatch through the fiberglass and metal hinge and used 1/4X20 stainless phillips head machine bolts with lock washers and it has held up well for the past year. I caution to not over tighten the bolts as I slightly did and cracked the finish around one of the bolts. It looks fine and I feel much more confident in the hatch staying put.


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