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Old 12-21-2013, 10:04 AM   #41
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Help needed. Has anyone experienced a leak from the slide ceiling over the stove? We have one that has just appeared today, this rainy day in TX. As a temp fix I have tipped the coach to drain the water off the slide roof.

I know the seams need to be checked regularly and caulked on occasion. I just don't know how to access the seam behind the trim where the leak is appearing. Can anyone provide some way of getting to it? It is so tight up there that I don't see how I could get a mirror behind the molding, let alone a caulking gun. I don't see a way of removing the molding.

Any help is appreciated. I will not be able to call Winnebago till sometime in January.

A blessed and merry Christmas to you all and thanks in advance.

Rick
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Old 12-21-2013, 10:47 AM   #42
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Rick Sorry to hear about your leak.
Hopefully it is something as simple as the slide wiper (weather striping/rubber seal) curled.
A cheap inspection camera is handy for situations like that:
Whistler 9mm Inspection Camera: Automotive : Walmart.com
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Old 12-21-2013, 12:34 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Help needed. Has anyone experienced a leak from the slide ceiling over the stove? We have one that has just appeared today, this rainy day in TX. As a temp fix I have tipped the coach to drain the water off the slide roof.

...

A blessed and merry Christmas to you all and thanks in advance.

Rick
Is water getting on top of the slide underneath the slide-topper awning?

Where is the highest point inside that you see the water? Where above the microwave? left? right?

The sealant above the slide and just where the roofline curves to the rain gutter should be inspected.

To get to the slide seal underneath the slide-topper awning I think you have to undo the slide-topper awning itself. That sounds like a lot of work with at least two people on ladders/scaffolding.
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Old 12-21-2013, 07:22 PM   #44
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Is water getting on top of the slide underneath the slide-topper awning?

Where is the highest point inside that you see the water? Where above the microwave? left? right?

The sealant above the slide and just where the roofline curves to the rain gutter should be inspected.

To get to the slide seal underneath the slide-topper awning I think you have to undo the slide-topper awning itself. That sounds like a lot of work with at least two people on ladders/scaffolding.
Jeff, it is dripping out of the metal strip behind the wooden trim just about in line with the microwave readout screen. I can feel a small space there. I don't know if it is the slide seal or the caulking along the slide roof seam that is falling. I agree that the topper must come off to inspect the seal. If I can control it till next month I be in a better place to deal with it. I think water is getting under the topper. To check the sealant behind the interior wood is a great challenge and I would like to know how to accomplish this.

I did check the gutters a month or so ago and they looked OK. I think my leak is slide only related.

Thanks for the input.

Rick
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Old 12-21-2013, 07:26 PM   #45
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Rick Sorry to hear about your leak.
Hopefully it is something as simple as the slide wiper (weather striping/rubber seal) curled.
A cheap inspection camera is handy for situations like that:
Whistler 9mm Inspection Camera: Automotive : Walmart.com
That is a great idea, Bill. I will look into this.

Merry Christmas,
Rick
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Old 12-21-2013, 07:48 PM   #46
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If you can live in the space remaining, close that slide until the weather passes or until you can delve deeper.

I know this will doing silly but is the slide all the way out?
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Old 12-22-2013, 05:09 AM   #47
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This may or may not work for you. But this is what my Dad does with his slide upper seal on his 2002 Journey for the same reason you are stating. When he is extending his slide out he stops it with about 4 inches of travel remaining to full extension. Then he uses a small step stool to get to the top seal from the inside of the coach & push it out to its proper position. My guess is his seal is getting stiff due to age & it doesn't flip completely on its own to be pushing out. He too has had water come in even though he has a slide topper awning. This is an idea for you to try. It could be this simple.
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Old 12-22-2013, 05:54 AM   #48
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If you can live in the space remaining, close that slide until the weather passes or until you can delve deeper.

I know this will doing silly but is the slide all the way out?
This is a valid question because they sometimes do creep under certain types of failures. The slide is where it belongs.
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Old 12-22-2013, 05:59 AM   #49
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This may or may not work for you. But this is what my Dad does with his slide upper seal on his 2002 Journey for the same reason you are stating. When he is extending his slide out he stops it with about 4 inches of travel remaining to full extension. Then he uses a small step stool to get to the top seal from the inside of the coach & push it out to its proper position. My guess is his seal is getting stiff due to age & it doesn't flip completely on its own to be pushing out. He too has had water come in even though he has a slide topper awning. This is an idea for you to try. It could be this simple.
What you suggest is why I am asking for help. I have 1 3/4" of clearance from the top of the interior trim board to the ceiling. Physically I just can't do this. Now, if I were on of the "Incredibles"... I hope the seal is not failling after just 3 years!
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Old 12-22-2013, 07:39 AM   #50
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I wasn't sure how tight it was even if the slide wasn't all the way extended. I am sure yours is the same as mine, however I am at work & can't see what it actually looks like. Wish I could be more help. For your sake & mine also, I hope that seal is still very flexible. My Dads Journey has enough room to get my hand in there.

May I suggest pulling the slide in enough that the seal should be in the "in" stowed position & spraying a lubricant for slide seals ( some people use silcone spray ) on the seal then extending it again.
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Old 12-22-2013, 08:53 AM   #51
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Close the slide. Stand on the driver's seat and look at the seal behind the interior trim board. On my 07 Vectra the rubber had "pulled away" from the back of the trim board and needed to be re-fastened with some really good double sided tape. On mine the water was getting through the rubber seal right behind the trim above the microwave, just like yours. My double sided tape did not last long and when I was at Forest City I bought a roll of "sticky tape" (they call it snot tape) to replace the double sided tape. I had to install it "blind" as you have to attack it to the back of the trim and you cannot see what you are doing but if I recall you really are just sticking the rubber in the corner between the topper and the trim. Worked for me for several years.
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:44 AM   #52
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Close the slide. Stand on the driver's seat and look at the seal behind the interior trim board. On my 07 Vectra the rubber had "pulled away" from the back of the trim board and needed to be re-fastened with some really good double sided tape. On mine the water was getting through the rubber seal right behind the trim above the microwave, just like yours. My double sided tape did not last long and when I was at Forest City I bought a roll of "sticky tape" (they call it snot tape) to replace the double sided tape. I had to install it "blind" as you have to attack it to the back of the trim and you cannot see what you are doing but if I recall you really are just sticking the rubber in the corner between the topper and the trim. Worked for me for several years.
I know of the seal you are speaking of from my '05 Vectra. I don't think the design is the same. This is on the passenger side slide. The slide does not drop down when it moves.

I just reached behind the trim at the only accessible place and I do feel a flexible rubber seal there. We are leaving for a two week vacation so this tipping of the coach will have to be the temporary fix for now. I don' know when I will be able to do any more after that because we are heading to Austin the day after we get back. In any case, your suggestion has provoked me into pondering how I will get to the gasket. When I pull the slide in I will try to get a better 'feel' for what is going on. I'll let you all know what I find.

Have a very warm and wonderful Christmas.

Rick
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:07 AM   #53
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Cabinet problems

Here we are, 9 months later. We are loving so many things about our coach. But then there are the problems.

My latest is another problem with the cabinet over the 'J' couch. The cabinet came loos from the ceiling in the area over the short wall and about 18" to 20" to the right. I did my best to raise it back into place and re attach it but I am not happy with the results.

Has anyone else had this problem? What of the base cover of the upper cabinets? In several places I have had to reattach them.
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Old 02-13-2014, 06:27 AM   #54
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jerichorick; We had a similar leak but on the drivers side slide. The water came in at the same location, the metal trim piece behind the wood face board. To seal it the dealer had to remove the slide topper and with the slide extended, reseal a seam on the slide out right close to the coach. There's about a 3" wide metal strip running the full length of the slide and that's what needed to be resealed.
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:51 AM   #55
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jerichorick; We had a similar leak but on the drivers side slide. The water came in at the same location, the metal trim piece behind the wood face board. To seal it the dealer had to remove the slide topper and with the slide extended, reseal a seam on the slide out right close to the coach. There's about a 3" wide metal strip running the full length of the slide and that's what needed to be resealed.
Thanks for this info. The drivers side and passengers side are built a bit different but the sealing of seams is still a Winnebago problem.

I found a screw backed out a bit and a bit of a crack around the sealant. I have not had a chance to address it. I like to have the roof 'cook' a while in the sun to dry it out as much as possible. We haven't had sun or warm for some time now and we are in the hill country of TX! Will keep you posted with what I find.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:03 AM   #56
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Our Coleman heat pumps seem to quit working around
40-45*. They just seem to cycle at that temp. Is this normal?
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:17 AM   #57
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Poppopc, You are right the heat pumps stop putting out heat between 40 to 50 degres that's pretty normal.
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:18 AM   #58
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Poppopc, You are right the heat pumps stop putting out heat between 40 to 50 degres that's pretty normal.
Mine actually worked at 31 degrees. But we spend the Winter in Vegas so the humidity is pretty low. That really surprised me.
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:11 AM   #59
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Mine have worked down to 30*. Yesterday morning I witnessed the limit happen. It was 30* and we were getting heat. The thermometer reading dropped to 29* as I was looking at it and the temp from the vents went cold at about the same time. It is 33* now and we have good heat from the vents. Both front units are running. Back is off for DW. She is still in bed.

My '05 Vectra basement air never worked down this low nor carried the load when temps got over 95* or so. We have not been in truly hot weather yet with this coach. I look forward to seeing how it does.

Now, if we can just get rid of the confounded jet turbine noise!
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Old 05-03-2014, 06:00 PM   #60
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I just did my annual start battery maintenance. We have had this rig since early June of '13. The terminals did not look bad but I had never checked the water in these batteries so today was a good day to do this. When I removed the terminal connections I did find a small amount of oxidation but much better than I expected. I pulled the batteries and washed them with baking soda and water solution. Not much fizzing could be seen. Another good sign. When I topped off the batteries with distilled water, the cells only needed a small amount. Next I put mineral oil in each cell. I used 16 oz in the 12 cells. Each battery read 12.88 volts out of the coach. Great reading after a couple of hours on the ground. (I had to make a trip into town.) The reconnect went smoothy. I added a 1/2" x 1 1/2 " barrel spacer to the hold down clamp rods to shorten the nut thread distance. Also, I put tape around the rods near the rod fasteners to keep them up while installing the holder bar. This was not really needed but it made hunting for them easier. I sprayed the terminals with CRC terminal protectant and did my final check, closed up and cleaned up. I did forget to turn the battery switch back on and DW found this out when she tried to move the drivers seat. All is well that ends well.
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