Winnebago Circuit Breaker Panel

[tim myers]

First, from a safety point, I had everything off, genset off, shore power unplugged and house battery switch off.


My 36SG does not have a vent, if I were to put the inverter there I would add a vent and likely a nice quiet fan.

[Morich]

When I study these drawings and compare to pictures of real RV, I get a bit more impressed withthe way winnebago does so much to help after the build!

It's a small point but having wires marked on the wire to match what is on the drawing is a biggie when we try to figure out what they have done for us!

Looking at what you found with the cover off, it is much easier to spot a number of things.
Like the hold down bracket for the breakers, is shown on the drawing and how to install it!
But then when looking/comparing their plan for RV with inverter and what you have, we can spot how their use of an inverter sub with sub breakers there affected the number of breakers they used in the main.



Small things like the tape rings on the wires matching the drawing colors for each circuit ID?
At a quick look, I spot the blue and purple but not the red and green but I bet the guy who built it had a lot better chance of getting it right than a guy who had no markers on the wires!


That should also help as you go along on planning your changes as you look at things to ID which wires do what and where you want to put them and it will be a whole lot easier than the old "hunt and peck" deal!

[bigb]

I guess they have all those colored bands on there so it can be assembled quickly at the factory by non-electricians but marking a current carrying conductor with green goes against NEC rules.

[Morich]

But then NEC rules are not involved in Automotive in many cases, so no biggie!

Maybe they figure even electricians will be aware that a wire on a breaker is likely not the ground?

Rules be rules but the smarter folks keep their head up!

[tim myers]

I was able to find the exact sub panel Wbgo used in the original built, but they want just under $100 for it and it is plastic. I found a Sq D flush mount panel that has the two full width breaker spaces needed to hold two split breakers. At $22 for the panel and $16 each for the breakers it is a better deal and still less then the original one even with being able to reuse a two of the breakers out of the existing panel. I think it is amazing how good this panel looks after 16 years.

[bigb]

Originally Posted by tim myers

I was able to find the exact sub panel Wbgo used in the original built, but they want just under $100 for it and it is plastic. I found a Sq D flush mount panel that has the two full width breaker spaces needed to hold two split breakers. At $22 for the panel and $16 each for the breakers it is a better deal and still less then the original one even with being able to reuse a two of the breakers out of the existing panel. I think it is amazing how good this panel looks after 16 years.

So in order for the Cutler hammer breakers to physically fit the Square D panel it must be a Homeline (HOM) panel, not a QO panel. Just a point of reference it is poor practice and not to NEC standards to use circuit breakers from one brand of panel in a different brand of panel, and you will find that no panel manufacturer condones it. Is it for safety/proper fitment or just that the manufacturers want you to buy their stuff? It is commonly discussed in the trade but I don't think anyone really knows.

[tim myers]

Originally Posted by bigb

So in order for the Cutler hammer breakers to physically fit the Square D panel it must be a Homeline (HOM) panel, not a QO panel. Just a point of reference it is poor practice and not to NEC standards to use circuit breakers from one brand of panel in a different brand of panel, and you will find that no panel manufacturer condones it. Is it for safety/proper fitment or just that the manufacturers want you to buy their stuff? It is commonly discussed in the trade but I don't think anyone really knows.

I am planning on purchasing new Sq D breakers. I was just saying that even if I could move the CH breakers from the old panel to the new the CH plastic panel is still more expensive.

[Morich]

I once did some work with folks who were deep into making the breakers and I found they are somewhat like batteries in that one actual builder can be found to make the breakers for a number of different brands and there may only be some small item like the label difference. From there it goes into protecting the brand and ads , more than actual difference in the item.
One may have the patent but if the next one hooks to the left instead of the right, it can be a different item even if that hook makes no difference.

I have a son who just quit as a patent attorney in the medical field. Heart stents, valves and that sort of pricey stuff?
The law is NOT to clear things up. It is to make money !

[tim myers]

Ok, I know it is hard to believe, but I have more questions. After using an extending snow scraper as a prop I opened up the electrical space at the foot of my bed to have a look. First thing I found is that I do have a vent on the Pax side of my bed compartment. With Bi-Lateral knee replacement, I really don't get on the ground/floor very often.


I actually think I have answered my question.


Picture #1 is of the ventilation grille on the pax side of the bed


Picture #4 is looking at the whole space from pax toward the drivers side


Picture #2 is of the same space looking towards the rear of the coach and showing the sleeves AC wires


Picture #3 was my question. Had no idea what this was till I looked at it on the computer, and I think this is the box that housed one of the Rams for my bedroom slide.

What do you guys think?

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Tim-

Hmm... I'd be inclined to put the inverter in an exterior bay, as Winnebago did. Less noise and heat in the bedroom. I am a sound sleeper- except for noises such as electrical humming or fans.

A look at the 2005 36G diagrams (link here) confirms that Winnebago design was to put the inverter in the same exterior bay as your 2007. Does your friend know if his coach came from the factory with the inverter under the bed?

Either way- inverter inside or out- to add the large inverter you'll need to run cables from under the coach to inside, under the bed. Do you plan on doing the work yourself, or hiring it out?

[tim myers]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

Tim-

Hmm... I'd be inclined to put the inverter in an exterior bay, as Winnebago did. Less noise and heat in the bedroom. I am a sound sleeper- except for noises such as electrical humming or fans.

A look at the 2005 36G diagrams (link here) confirms that Winnebago design was to put the inverter in the same exterior bay as your 2007. Does your friend know if his coach came from the factory with the inverter under the bed?

Either way- inverter inside or out- to add the large inverter you'll need to run cables from under the coach to inside, under the bed. Do you plan on doing the work yourself, or hiring it out?

Friend is not aware that this was a change by the PO, but I agree that Wbgo shows the 2KW Inverter/charger in the electrical bay on most of their drawings in the same location as my existing 600W Inverter.



I would do the work myself, and once I find a clear path I would only need 6' or so of cable for pos, and neg, shouldn't be to hard to run. I have young sons that can crawl around on the ground.


If I put another Inverter in the Elec bay, it would have to sit on the floor and I would have to figure out what to do with the shore power cord, and of course run dc cabling all the way across the coach, plus a run of #10 from the main panel to the inverter and back to the sub panel. My only concern would be any heat generated at idle. All this inverter would really power are a couple laptops, phone chargers and the occasion running of the microwave, so I am not sure how much actual heat I would have to deal with.


Keep ideas coming,