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Old 10-20-2015, 01:18 PM   #1
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Why Are Some 120v Outlets Blocked?

I have found a few 120v outlets where only one of the plugs are open and the other is blocked by plastic. Is this to control over using the circuit?
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:25 PM   #2
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The only place I've seen what you describe is my fridge outlet; so only one load can be plugged in and it is to prevent overloading a dedicated circuit.
Why a single outlet is not used instead of a dual with the block off is anybodies guess.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:25 PM   #3
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Some receptacles are now made " tamper resistant " or " child proof ". Is that what your talking about ?


Leviton 15-Amp Tamper-Resistant Duplex Outlet - White (10-Pack)-M22-T5320-WMP - The Home Depot
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:11 PM   #4
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Is this what you mean ?

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Old 10-20-2015, 02:24 PM   #5
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The only place I've seen what you describe is my fridge outlet; so only one load can be plugged in and it is to prevent overloading a dedicated circuit.
Why a single outlet is not used instead of a dual with the block off is anybodies guess.
What he said! I think the outlet my (diesel) engine block heater plugs into is the same as well.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:51 PM   #6
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+1 on the plug in my middle bay that handles the central vac.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:10 PM   #7
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I also found an outlet behind the bedroom wall and in the electrical area behind the space for the washer/dryer with both outlets having the outlets blocked.

These are not child resistant, they are adult resistant.

I see no way to remove it. The outlet hidden behind the wall must have been for an option not installed and they leave the outlet.

I will get a picture up by tonight.
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:18 PM   #8
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I also found an outlet behind the bedroom wall and in the electrical area behind the space for the washer/dryer with both outlets having the outlets blocked....
My guess would be that that's just a junction box. It should show up on your wiring diagrams.
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:47 PM   #9
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Winnebago often uses an outlet to splice electrical wires. They use wire quick connectors and are totally enclosed, in particular if they cap the outlets. They must be cheaper than junction boxes LOL.
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Old 10-20-2015, 08:06 PM   #10
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The outlet in the upper cabinet where the microwave/convection is plugged into is a single outlet. Vista 27N
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:00 PM   #11
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Winnebago (and others) use a type of receptacle different from your sticks and bricks stuff.

I think wirecon may be the brand.



They come single, double, and blank (as noted used for junctions).

There is no box, like "normal". Just a back that snaps on. Quick, and cheap.

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Old 10-20-2015, 09:57 PM   #12
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Quick and cheap, but also very good electrically, in particular if the RV maker uses the special tool that correctly strips the cable perfectly and inserts the wires into the clips perfectly.
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:06 PM   #13
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The reason is cost.. THese are "Single outlets" but for assorted reasons are built like a standard duplex (two outlet) device, that way the shop does everything exactly as they would for a standard duplex outlet but because it's only a single it is less expensive.

Commonly used in the Fridge (outside) comprtment when you do not have an inverter and if you have a plug in converter (As I do) in that compartment, also the engine block heater and possibly the washer/dryer and microwave outlets..

no reason to use a full duplex in those spots and due to having less copper these are cheaper.

And yes. You can replace 'em with a standard duplex if you need it. Or with a divided duplex if you need it

(What is a divided duplex? Both halves are on a DIFFERENT feed.
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Old 10-21-2015, 09:07 PM   #14
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On my coach under the fridge, I needed power for a trickle charger Xfmr. So I used a Dremmel tool to open up the blocked slots of the receptacle for the central vac. The brass contacts are there at both sockets of these receptacles so there no cost savings.

I think Winnebago is just trying to limit and control the amp loads on these circuits. Some lines like the fridge and water heater are wired into the "load shedding" circuits to limit power on 30 amp shore power.
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Old 11-16-2015, 08:39 AM   #15
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Ours had actual single outlets, a high grade outlet with single hole in places where only one thing is like microwave.

They may cost more as use is less but it limits one from placing cords through doors to use them.

We swapped out microwave single with a switch combo so instead of unplugging microwave we switch off...We had the parts and less trouble.
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Old 11-27-2015, 04:28 PM   #16
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Out '07 Dolphin has two such double/single outlets inside the outer refrig. access area. One supplies power from shore power, the other from inverter OR shore power, depending on which is being used. When on inverter power, the voltage is less that 120V, with four fully charged house batteries, which concerns me. I have not tested the voltage with the engine running and the alternator further charging the batteries. I have always preferred to run the refrig. on inverter rather than propane while driving, for the obvious safety benefits. The question: If, with the engine running I am getting 110-120 volts via the inverter, but less with the engine off, as while fueling up, taking a break, etc., am I at risk or ruining the refrig. with the temporary use of the lower voltage? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:50 PM   #17
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Fridge should not care much as it is just a heating element.
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:05 AM   #18
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TQ, That makes perfect sense! Everything else in it is 12V. Many Thanks!!
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Mike View Post
I have found a few 120v outlets where only one of the plugs are open and the other is blocked by plastic. Is this to control over using the circuit?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Mike View Post
I also found an outlet behind the bedroom wall and in the electrical area behind the space for the washer/dryer with both outlets having the outlets blocked.
These are not child resistant, they are adult resistant.
I see no way to remove it. The outlet hidden behind the wall must have been for an option not installed and they leave the outlet.
I will get a picture up by tonight.
Nomad Mike
A picture would be helpful.
(BTW it's been over a month and still no picture).
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Old 11-28-2015, 11:22 AM   #20
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I prefer to investigate the real answer rather than guess. so I spent a lot of time to find the real reason which of course has nothing to do with cost but rather codes. I go through this all time in my business (fire alarm systems) and always find the code to clarify my position or argue against the "code official" who thinks they know but sometime just might be wrong. Ahemmm.

NEC code dictates what to use and when. Contrary to OP thought of "it is cheaper", The outlets are available in both 15 and 20 amp versions. The are suited to conform to NEC standards for use with dedicated circuits and apliances only, when within 6 feet of a sink, such as microwave oven, refrigerators, air conditioners etc. REFERENCE WIRECON self contained devices part no. WDR15WTS for surface mount in out of the way locations or single gang box. for more info visit http://www.hubbell-wirecon.com/liter...on_catalog.pdf

These are used in premise wiring systems to separately derived outlets when you many not want to use a GFI circuit but want to have the protection against electrocution and keep the outlet for the intended use as a single female outlet for connection to one attachment plug.
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