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Old 09-24-2014, 07:10 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry B View Post
Flex panels don't have only upsides to them.
They are more expensive
Produce less output due to running hotter (no ventilation under panel.
The cells dimple causing road dirt collection thus reducing output.

Boat environment is different. For one there is no road dirt to contend with. Just be aware of the downside of these panels as well.
Thank you!

I am aware of the cupping (dimpling) issue, but have read it happens only with 3mm thick panels. I wasn't aware of the heat issue causing less output. Do you have a link so I can research further?

Scott
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:24 AM   #42
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You should be able to find a pure sine wave inverter with a converter and 3/4 stage charger built in. Just install it right after the transfer switch. That way when you use shore or gen power you will not need to do anything as this device will automatically use the AC power for your rv and charge the batteries. When you run off batteries the pure sine wave will automatically kick in. Run the solar separate with its own controller to prevent that loop charging.

Of course I assume you will not run the ac's as it will drain your batteries pretty fast. For coffee I will boil water or use the Kuerig. I like the Kuerig as it makes coffee fast and I can turn it off right away, works great when driving down the road and I need a second cup.
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:28 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by dunkonu23 View Post
Thank you!

I am aware of the cupping (dimpling) issue, but have read it happens only with 3mm thick panels. I wasn't aware of the heat issue causing less output. Do you have a link so I can research further?

Scott
Here a link that discusses the effect of heat on solar panels.
Standard Test Conditions (STC) vs. Normal Operating Cell temperature (NOCT)
As an example I am installing 4-130 watt STC rated panels on my MH. However, at the NOCT rating their output is only 93 watts each.

Chuck
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:16 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zman-az View Post
You should be able to find a pure sine wave inverter with a converter and 3/4 stage charger built in. Just install it right after the transfer switch. That way when you use shore or gen power you will not need to do anything as this device will automatically use the AC power for your rv and charge the batteries. When you run off batteries the pure sine wave will automatically kick in. Run the solar separate with its own controller to prevent that loop charging.

Of course I assume you will not run the ac's as it will drain your batteries pretty fast. For coffee I will boil water or use the Kuerig. I like the Kuerig as it makes coffee fast and I can turn it off right away, works great when driving down the road and I need a second cup.
I will research that. Thank you. I may run into an issue because of existing wiring, but we will see.

Scott
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:17 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chboone View Post
Here a link that discusses the effect of heat on solar panels.
Standard Test Conditions (STC) vs. Normal Operating Cell temperature (NOCT)
As an example I am installing 4-130 watt STC rated panels on my MH. However, at the NOCT rating their output is only 93 watts each.

Chuck
Thank you! I will check it out. I do not think the 5mm dropoff is excessive but I will reverify.

Scott
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