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Old 03-28-2017, 11:18 AM   #41
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The wiring diagram indicates that there is a flex wire used to power one of the outlets - I would start there and see what is moving and is it possible something got pinched in that process. Is it possible that something in the base of the dinette has moved, hit, cut, pulled out, crushed or damaged a spot on that flex wire?
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:20 PM   #42
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RTegarini, I agree with CWHTRAINS. There is actually two flex cords in that circuit one feeding the dinette slide out and one feeding the bed slide out. I think the flex cords can be unplugged, if so unplug the upstream side and test.
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Old 03-28-2017, 11:09 PM   #43
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One test method would be to disconnect the output lead from the CB you just changed. Connect it to a light bulb socket with a short piece of spare wire. Connect the wire that was removed from the CB to the other side of the socket. Put a 100 Watt bulb in the socket. Turn on power. The short will light the bulb, and you can now work on tracking down where it might be by measuring the voltage at the sockets in the string. You can use a shop light and attach wires to the male plug. Many auto parts stores have light bulb sockets with a couple wires hanging out you can wire to.

The problem will be near the outlet with the lowest voltage. Likely in the wall based on what you've already tested. Or in a hidden junction box. It could be in a junction box between two outlet boxes. I've found junction boxes added simply because they had a short piece of Romex and wanted to use it, but the schematic didn't show it.

BTW, CBs have a limited number of trips before they are out of spec. That's why it's important to avoid using a CB as a testing device.
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Old 03-29-2017, 02:47 PM   #44
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All 'good' things must come to an end... and 'bad' things too! I finally found the problem, started by what I feel is a pretty weak Winnebago design. There is a bracket under the motorhome dinette / sofa slide that is like a dogleg, with two wiring looms attached to it. This bracket opens or extends to some degree as the slide is opened and extended. The metal for the dog-leg and bracket is about as thin as can be for it's actual intended use and no way designed for the typical life-cycle of a slide. The dog-leg broke away from the bracket to the chassis, allowing the wiring looms to hang free. (The 110v wiring went to the dinette receptacle, the 12v wiring went to a storage compartment for lighting.) With the slide extended out, no problem, but when the slide is all the way in, those wires were making contact with the exhaust and burned through all the protective insulation. An easy repair but frustrating to get to that point of the diagnoses.

So, the longer version of this story is we started with the breaker and receptacles again, and all seemed normal. Before we had started with these items, I had extended the dinette / kitchen slide to search for the wiring connectors that had escaped me, as I thought people were referring to wiring that was some how located inside the motorhome, in the dinette area. I found the wiring and connections and we went to work on the inside. One of the steps we took was to reverse the two wires on the breakers, Receps 2 and Receps 3, thinking that Receps 3 would now become the problem circuit and either shut down the generator or trip the newly replaced breaker. Turning on both breakers, nothing tripped. What? A bad circuit is still a bad circuit, right, it should have only shifted over to the other breaker. Reversed them back to the original OEM breaker circuits, powered up the generator, turned on the two breakers and... nothing shuts down or trips.

Talking out loud, I asked what's different here? The slide is open, so I do a test by bringing in the slide, powering up the generator, the breaker trips. Do another test by opening up the slide, nothing trips or shuts down. Climb under the slide to 'see what we could see' and it didn't take long to see the burnt wiring and then realized the bracket had broken off, allowing the wiring to contact the exhaust.

Thanks to all that have helped me along the way, and I would say that anyone with a lower-end model Winnebago and Itasca should open the slides and inspect those dog-legs. It's definitely a weak point that can get you a dead circuit and a whole lot of frustration. I'm hoping my son-in-law will be able to fabricate and replace the cheesy dog-legs and brackets that Winnebago uses. -RT
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:07 PM   #45
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You did good..... way to stick with it.
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:44 PM   #46
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Way to go and find what was causing the problem!

That looks like quite a number of individual wires to repair. How did you effect the actual repair? Cut and reconnect each one with some type of connector?
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:47 PM   #47
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Congratulations!!!! Persistence and patience paid off. Gotta think what it could have cost if you took it to a dealer who may or may not have found it. Should be easy to rationalise a couple of cases of the cold stuff for the fridge!
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:09 PM   #48
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Congratulations on tracking down the problem!
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:42 PM   #49
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Great Job, thanks for the feedback,
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:45 PM   #50
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Great detective work.
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:06 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWHTRAINS View Post
Way to go and find what was causing the problem!

That looks like quite a number of individual wires to repair. How did you effect the actual repair? Cut and reconnect each one with some type of connector?
We cut back the insulation and clipped the bad part of the wiring, reconnecting them using butt connectors, black 'liquid tape' (very cool stuff, had never seen or used it before) and then sealing it all with electrical tape. Lastly, finished off with split wire loom and some zip-ties. To repair the broken dog-leg from the bracket, we just drilled new holes. Would like to come up with a better solution to the OEM dog-leg... terrible quality and just can't be the best gauge for repeated duty-cycling of the slide. -RT
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:09 PM   #52
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Should be easy to rationalise a couple of cases of the cold stuff for the fridge! bob
Neither I or the friend who helped me drink, so I'm allowing him his choice and taking him and his wife to sushi. He saved me a lot of money and I learned a few things in the course of doing this repair.

Thanks to all who stuck with me during this long thread and helping me out! -RT
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Old 03-29-2017, 10:31 PM   #53
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Great find!

My '02 Journey has that dogleg type flexible electrical raceway under the LR slide as well. Only mine doesn't have a hot exhaust nearby (diesel ). But it is disintegrating because it was driven up north in the winter with salt on the roads. So far, all I've done to it is inspect (passed), treated the rust damage, and tie wrap it in a couple places to hold the wiring in the channel better. It'll need replacement eventually.

Diesel owners should also consider checking theirs if they have a LR slide.
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Old 03-30-2017, 10:29 PM   #54
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To put my repair issue into context, here's a few updated photos of the dog-leg that owners of my model and vintage should inspect.


Photo #1 and #2 is the dog-leg extended due to the slide being fully open. The shiny bolts at the top-right are where the bracket / wiring channel broke off from the chassis.

Photo #2 also shows the wiring repair and when the bracket was broken, it allowed the wiring to push into the exhaust when the slide was fully closed.

Photo #3 is the dog-leg folded due to the slide being fully closed.
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Old 03-31-2017, 07:41 AM   #55
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RTegarini, Thanks again for the great follow up. I would suggest loosely putting a couple of cable ties through this tube to support the wire if the bracket broke again.
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Old 03-31-2017, 09:41 AM   #56
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RTegarini, Thanks again for the great follow up. I would suggest loosely putting a couple of cable ties through this tube to support the wire if the bracket broke again.
Great suggestion and one that I will do... thank-you. I have some giant-sized cable ties that would be perfect. -RT
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