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Old 11-01-2022, 09:44 AM   #61
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I really like my Xantrex 2000 XC. One reason is , though I seldom do, it will run my microwave while boondocking. And it passes through all 30amp from shore power. Be careful not to buy an inverter that won’t do that. However you are correct that is truly a bummer that it doesn’t talk to my Victron devices like solar charge controllers and negative shunt monitor. On top of that, the Xantrex app loses its Bluetooth connection as soon as you walk even a few feet away. I wish they would fix that with firmware upgrade. Maybe they don’t care.
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Old 11-01-2022, 10:20 AM   #62
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Yeah, the Bluetooth issue concerns me a little and I would really like to go all Victron. As far as I can tell, Xantex doesn't make any type of dongle to help extend the bluetooth range like Victron does.

The weight difference is also a concern, after all, it all adds up!

Victron 3000 - 40lbs

Xantex 3000 - 18.6 lbs

Xantex 2000 - 17.1 lbs
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Old 11-01-2022, 10:31 AM   #63
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Yeah, the Bluetooth issue concerns me a little and I would really like to go all Victron. As far as I can tell, Xantex doesn't make any type of dongle to help extend the bluetooth range like Victron does.
Yes, Xantrex makes a dongle. It’s called an optional remote panel, and it connects to the Xantrex using RJ-11 phone wire/jacks. I mounted my remote just inside the door entry. Of course, if you mount the remote panel higher where it’s easy to see, you may not be as concerned about the klitchy Bluetooth connection.

Xantrex 808-0817-02 Remote Control, Bluetooth, Freedom X/XC https://a.co/d/80Y4TWf
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Old 11-01-2022, 10:54 AM   #64
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I was looking at that but the Q&A as well as the reviews seem to be a hit or miss. I am hoping to place the inverter & batteries in the compartment under the bed (front of TT) while my control s in my TT are in an overhead cabinet near the rear of the TT. Getting a wire between the two place seems to be a real pain in the rear.

Sure wish these manufactures made a wireless control panel but I guess that is what your phone is for (I had to upgrade my phone to use some of these apps! LOL). I really like the Victron panel but getting an HDMI cable between the two place seem beyond my skill set.
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Old 11-01-2022, 11:04 AM   #65
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The truth is, I hardly ever use the panel, or the Bluetooth. The Xantrex automatically switches between grid mode, and battery mode. And I get all the info I need from my Victron shunt. So, the only time I ever use the panel/Bluetooth is when my shore power is hooked up to my generator or my home. They both top out at 15amps. I have to go on my phone and reduce battery charging amperage from 70 amps to 20 amps if I’m using my A/C or microwave.. For smaller loads, the Xantrex will automatically reduce charge amperage if it’s you set it up so charging is not preferred.
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Old 11-01-2022, 11:13 AM   #66
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That is good info to hear. I already have the Victron shunt in the mix, and it seems there was going to be a lot of redundancy in necessary info.

So, to clarify one thing. You only reduce the charging amps while hooked up to your 15amp home outlet if you are using the microwave? I assume you don't use the A/C on a 15 amp home circuit.
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Old 11-01-2022, 11:26 AM   #67
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My A/C will work on home current or generator because I installed an easy start for the A/C. It runs quite easily on that amount of amperage as long as I don’t use the microwave at the same time. In order to run both, I need to be hooked to a 30amp shore power outlet, or a generator that will put out 30amps. I don’t want a bigger generator, so I make do with what I have and just turn off the A/C when I want to use the microwave. I have run into an issue with the Xantrex which is totally my fault. If I’ve been on 30amp shore power, and the Xantrex was on, then, I pack up to leave and forget to turn off the A/C, the Xantrex will pick up that load as soon as the SP plug is pulled, and will start servicing the A/C. Then lo and behold, we get to our destination and the battery is dead. The Xantrex will drain all 170ah from our battery if it’s left to run the A/C for a while. So now, turning off the A/C is on my departure checklist before disconnecting SP or generator. This only happened after installing the easy start because the Xantrex would otherwise trip without the easy start.
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Old 11-01-2022, 11:59 AM   #68
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I pack up to leave and forget to turn off the A/C, the Xantrex will pick up that load as soon as the SP plug is pulled, and will start servicing the A/C. Then lo and behold, we get to our destination and the battery is dead.
LOL - What a surprise!!!

Do you have the microwave/convection unit in your TT? I don't have mine right now as it and all the manuals are at the dealership, 120 miles away, and I am trying to figure out the power draw it uses.
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Old 11-02-2022, 09:24 PM   #69
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Jim,

I assume your Xantrex and battery powers the 12v systems via the OEM battery cable to the 12v distribution board and the Xantrex passes the shore power to the 120v breaker panel. So, did you remove or isolate your TT converter as I don't see why you would need it considering the Xantrex charges your battery and provides 12v, if needed, when hooked up to shore power.
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Old 11-03-2022, 05:57 AM   #70
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Sorry Bob, I should have explained my setup.
I don’t have a FLX. I have a plain vanilla 2021 2108ds that we purchased in 2020 before the FLX came to market. Wish it were available when we wanted to buy.

I installed the battery and Xantrex myself in the pass-thru. Retired all 12vdc to bus bars near the battery. Battery and inverter cable is 1/0 gauge. Wired 120vac to fuse panel using 30amp cable run through the floor, back along frame rail, and up through floor under the sink. Ran remote panel wire alongside the ac cables, and mounted it inside doorway. Solar charge controller outputs are run through a fuse block. Removed the wiring for OEM converter because it was no longer needed. SP gets routed directly to the Xantrex. And of course the Xantrex will pass thru ac power from SP if there is demand in grid mode. Otherwise, in battery mode ac demand activates the Xantrex inverter mode. To avoid having the A/C on the inverter circuit, I could have installed a separate wiring circuit for it so that it only operated on SP,. But I’m lazy, and wanted to avoid complexity. After 2 years, knock on wood, everything works great.
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Old 11-03-2022, 07:51 AM   #71
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Jim,

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I knew you had "plain vanilla 2021 2108ds" from previous discussions and in my case, is great as you have been a great help in planning my system for my 2529RG. Between you and the YouTube videos/drawings by EXPLORIST life - DIY Campers (though I question some things he suggests), have a pretty good handle on my conversion.

Did your 2108DS have the black membrane underneath the frame, and if so, did you remove it and replace it to do your wiring? I would like to hear what you did on that part of the installation.

Thanks again, you have been a huge asset!
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Old 11-03-2022, 08:00 AM   #72
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Bob,
Yes my MM has the underbelly chloroplast.
I did not remove it, and tried not to disturb it.
When I drilled down through the floor of the pass through, I stayed to the curbside of the chloroplast. The just ran the cable along the frame rail. Then back up through the floor under the sink. All this is just outside of the chloroplast.
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Old 11-03-2022, 08:27 AM   #73
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Got it. Looks like you ran it alongside the propane line. When I get my TT back, the "fun" begins. My luck it will be snowing by them and -10 degrees! LOL
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Old 11-17-2022, 07:02 PM   #74
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Jim,

Did I read somewhere in one of your many posts you upgraded your 12v DC wire rather than using the exiting 6awg? Also, working from memory (TT is still at dealership), I don't remember a negative cable running from the battery to the DC distribution panel. It seems it uses the chassis. Is that true with your TT?
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Old 11-17-2022, 08:15 PM   #75
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Hi Bob,
I used existing wires. So, the 12v wiring between distribution panel to pass thru is mostly unchanged. It’s just that the battery negative is wired through a shunt to a bus bar and batt pos to a pos bus bar. I do use 6awg between charge controller and fuse block, and 6awg between fuse block and bus bar. The 1/0 awg pos cable from batt goes to pos bus bar which services all dc loads coming from the disconnect switch. So dc wiring changes were modest. Since all dc loads are connected to bus, when I turn off my battery (which has an I/O switch) everything including phantom loads gets shut down. The inverter/charger ac is the only thing that gets rewired to distribution panel. Both pos and neg through pass thru floor down along frame rail, and up under through floor under kitchen sink. I removed the stock WFCO converter/charger connection and connected inverter/charger to SP. Hope this answers your questions without too much verbosity.
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Old 11-17-2022, 08:38 PM   #76
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Thanks for the response. So, is there a negative wire going from your bus to the DC Distribution panel or just from the negative bus bar to the chassis?
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Old 11-18-2022, 03:07 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by No1Hunter View Post
Thanks for the response. So, is there a negative wire going from your bus to the DC Distribution panel or just from the negative bus bar to the chassis?
The original wires to distribution panel are connected to the disconnect switch which is the one closest to battery. So, that part is the same as it was, which routes to tongue junction/breaker box through the loom. By re-using that, I didn’t have to lengthen any wires, or do any splices. In order for shunt to give correct readings, all 12v loads must make their way to load neg on the shunt. That’s the purpose of the white wire.
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Old 11-18-2022, 07:38 AM   #78
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Got it. Unfortunately my TT is a 100 miles away, but I found a picture of what is inside the junction box on the tongue and I see there is a negative bus bar inside it. From memory, I thought my battery (currently located on the tongue) just grounded to the chassis, but now I believe it grounds to the chassis on the passenger side and the negative bus bar on the driver side (there are two white wires coming off the battery's negative post). There must be a negative wire (white) going from the junction box bus bar to the 12v distribution panel.

I am planning on swapping out my whole AC/DC panel/converter with a 30/50 amp panel w/ DC distribution (no converter). On one side of the AC section will power the AC, Frig, water heater and inverter/charger. The other side of the AC will power the microwave and outlets will be powered by the inverter/charger, be it pass-through AC or "inverted" battery power.
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Old 11-18-2022, 09:18 AM   #79
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Here’s a good pic and explanation of junction box.
BTW, if you just wire the ac output of inverter/charger to the distribution panel where the converter charger used to be, the entire rv will be serviced by the inverter. The downside of that is you must remember to turn off the A/C after disconnecting SP or generator because the inverter will continue to run it, and totally discharge the battery.
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Old 11-18-2022, 09:33 AM   #80
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BTW, if you just wire the ac output of inverter/charger to the distribution panel where the converter charger used to be, the entire rv will be serviced by the inverter. The downside of that is you must remember to turn off the A/C after disconnecting SP or generator because the inverter will continue to run it, and totally discharge the battery.
Yeah, that and my gas/electric frig. That is the reason I decided just to split it. I am running 6awg SOOW cable to and from the inverter for the AC power. That way, should I decide to upgrade to a 50 amp service, most of it will be done. But that won't happen unless I decide to install a second AC unit.

I can't remember where you mounted your inverter control panel but where did you run the control cable. I read not to run it alongside the AC & DC lines (typical for Cat/phone cables). I see it in your picture inside the split wire loam going through the floor.
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