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Old 01-15-2020, 08:43 PM   #21
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I was not aware that WGO is now installing electric-only refrigerators. That's a real shame.

I can only assume a) they're trying to save money, and b) they figure *most* owners do not dry camp or boondock and routinely have shore power.

FWIW, our nephew removed his stock LP/electric fridge and installed an ordinary compressor type top freezer fridge. He uses 2 GC batteries and a cheap inverter and says he can go a couple days with them.

I don't know the make/model of the fridge but could find out.
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Old 01-15-2020, 09:43 PM   #22
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Don't make this complicated. Electric refrigerators will draw 75 or MORE watts (about 6 amps or more) and run about 16-20 hours each day, depending on use. Unless you are driving a huge array of lead acid batteries, 6 or 12 volt makes NO significant difference, you will have a marginal electrical system at best. Running on A/C is even worse! Now you need to power an inverter AND a refrigerator, jumping from the proverbial frying pan right into the core of the fire.

Stop trying to engineer your electrical system without a proper education in this specific area. These systems are a lot more complex than they seem. It's not about getting the red and black cables connected correctly. Have a reputable, trained electrical systems design engineer do the design at least and preferably a reputable installer to do the work. Cost a lot of money? Of course! But how much are you spending to make a system that doesn't work? Last words, IMO: Go lithium or stay home or plugged in.
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Old 01-16-2020, 09:58 AM   #23
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I have a 2018 View 24J that I’ve made upgrades to; four AGM Deep Cycle batteries Group24 2;, Xantrex XC 2K/4K inverter/charger wired to Main panel; Victron SmartSolar 100|50,; BMV-712 Battery monitor; Solar panels 350watts; Propane threeway switch before two-stage regulator; plus a few more minor things. Everything runs through inverter.
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Old 01-16-2020, 01:30 PM   #24
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I thought there was only room for two batteries under the entry way steps. Where did you put the extra two batteries?
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Old 01-17-2020, 06:36 AM   #25
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In the outside storage bin to the left of the door. Along with Victron BMV-712 mounted shunt. Disconnected PD-9245 because of XC2000.
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Old 01-17-2020, 10:14 AM   #26
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Norcold N3150 threeway draws about 350-400 watts on AC connection via batteries.
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Old 01-17-2020, 10:55 AM   #27
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Ah so....by the way, what is a “XC2000”?
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Old 01-17-2020, 11:09 AM   #28
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Xantrex Inverter+Charger 2000 watt(4000 surge).
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Old 01-17-2020, 12:59 PM   #29
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Xantrex Inverter+Charger 2000 watt(4000 surge).
I accuse that means it is both an inverter AND a converter (yes?). What made you want to make the change, and where did you install it?
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Old 01-17-2020, 01:01 PM   #30
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Sorry for “accuse” vice “assume” in the above...lovely spell checker...
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:29 AM   #31
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For what it’s worth, I changed out the original four 12v batts for six 6-volt batteries, and we run our residential fridge for better part of a day on battery, have to start generator to charge up when the voltage drops. Working fine. There are old posts on the questions/answers that I went thru. Next project is adding a reasonable solar system to help extend our run time between charges.
Wow, you threw away 4 perfectly good NAPA commercial batteries? I wasn't willing to do that. The rack actually holds 6 batteries, so I just purchased 2 more from NAPA when I took delivery of the rig. IMO those NAPA's are not terrible batteries. Might as well get your money's worth from them.
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:43 AM   #32
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Don't make this complicated. Electric refrigerators will draw 75 or MORE watts (about 6 amps or more) and run about 16-20 hours each day, depending on use. Unless you are driving a huge array of lead acid batteries, 6 or 12 volt makes NO significant difference, you will have a marginal electrical system at best. Running on A/C is even worse! Now you need to power an inverter AND a refrigerator, jumping from the proverbial frying pan right into the core of the fire.

Stop trying to engineer your electrical system without a proper education in this specific area. These systems are a lot more complex than they seem. It's not about getting the red and black cables connected correctly. Have a reputable, trained electrical systems design engineer do the design at least and preferably a reputable installer to do the work. Cost a lot of money? Of course! But how much are you spending to make a system that doesn't work? Last words, IMO: Go lithium or stay home or plugged in.
Easy Joe. The rig in question (if like mine, and I think it is) already has the needed inverter, charger and wiring as a stock configuration. Personally I opted for the 2 way fridge when I ordered my RV, but it cost me an additional 2 grand.
These class A's have over 400Ah of batteries, with room for at least 2 more. They have an in house 2Kw inverter and a 105A five (yes 5) stage charger. Adding 2 more batteries does require the proper guage wires to tie them in, but it's really not rocket science.
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:57 AM   #33
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Winterbagoal I would love to know how the Lithium batteries work for you, before I make the decision to add 2 additional 6 volt batteries and all that will entail, along with losing valuable storage space.
Good advice, I have already installed the Charge Wizard Pendant for the PD9245C 45 Amp Converter/Charger to switch to Boost Mode.
Will the PD9245C work with the 2 Relion 100Ah lithiums you installed?
Hi, sorry, I must have lost my subscription to this thread somehow, probably my fault.

Yes, the PD9245C works with the Relions. Once in a while I use the pendant to boost charge them, if there's been a lot of cloudy weather to reduce the solar charging.
I still haven't had a chance to field test my new batteries, as I've been home bound for almost 4 months, since I installed them for various other priorities.
I do check them periodically, while they sit in the coach in the driveway, and so far everything seems to be functioning as desired.
I'm only drawing a few amps through the CSW1012 inverter, which has been enabled almost constantly since I bought the Navion, and whatever else draws directly off the coach battery power. Haven't tested the Norcold DC0061 yet, as it's been too cold here since November.
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Old 01-21-2020, 05:21 PM   #34
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Winterbagoal I would love to know how the Lithium batteries work for you, before I make the decision to add 2 additional 6 volt batteries and all that will entail, along with losing valuable storage space.
Good advice, I have already installed the Charge Wizard Pendant for the PD9245C 45 Amp Converter/Charger to switch to Boost Mode.
Will the PD9245C work with the 2 Relion 100Ah lithiums you installed?
Hammerhead: here is my report of LI battery testing: http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...ml#post3853083

FYI: my PD9245C works with the 2 Battle Borne 100Ah lithiums (model 10012) just fine.
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:43 PM   #35
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FYI: my PD9245C works with the 2 Battle Borne 100Ah lithiums (model 10012) just fine.
Yes, a stock lead-acid (LA) charger can work with LiFePo batteries like the Battle Born, but not optimally. LA batteries charge at a lower voltage, so the LiFePo battery won't get fully charged, as compared to a LiFePo charger. The battery won't perform as well as charging it with a LiFePo charger. Also, lead acid chargers will charge slower, when LiFePo batteries can take a charge at a much higher current rate, for a faster charge. They are rated at 1C charge rate on the Battle Born, so for the 100A 12V model, one battery can take as charge at up to 100A. That kind of charge rate would ruin a LA battery, hence the LA charger will charge at a lower AMP rate, and take longer.
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Old 01-22-2020, 08:23 AM   #36
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John Locke: yes, the PD9245 needs to be put in the boost mode to get it up to full charge.
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Old 01-27-2020, 04:31 AM   #37
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The Xantrex XC2000(Inverter+Charger Pure sine) replaced both original
equipment Xantrex XM-Pro-1000(Mod sine) and PD-9245. The unit went in
the same location as previous inverter.
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Old 01-27-2020, 08:13 AM   #38
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Just checked the price: ~$550 . Wow! Pricey. How complicated was the wiring? Seems there would be issues with the leads that went to the old converter needing to get over to the location of the old inverter (I understood you to say that is where the new XC 2000 goes.
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