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Old 12-29-2021, 03:36 PM   #1
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 28
Toad Lights / Coach Lights

Hey everyone -

I have a new issue - need some ideas for troubleshooting a problem.

Coach tail lights, turn signals, etc. - all working fine.

Hook up the toad (7 pin on rig to 6 pin on toad) - coach tail lights, signals only working 50% (right turns, right brake lights not functional).

Could it simply be a problem in my cable between the two units? Other ideas?

Thank you!
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Old 12-29-2021, 04:10 PM   #2
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Well these can be a pickle but then if we use a meter, they are pretty simple to check!
There is a standard for wiring but sometimes it is not used so approach with an open mind and see what you have.
I would start with the Rv and no cord, check that connections in the connector and see if it matches the following diagram. Nice ot have an assist but possible to do alone.
The idea is to first check the ground pin on the connector by going to the resistance setting on your meter, one lead to some part of the frame which is ground and then the other lead to the ground point in the connector. Should show very low resistance.
Then set the meter to measure some amount above 12 volts, often 20 and as you turn on each item like left turn, right turn lights, check to see that pin in the connector is getting voltage. It is correct that the turn signal voltage will "blink" in time with the turn signal but the other should be a steady voltage above 12VDC. The trusting among us will assume that it ONLY shows where it should be but the less trusting will want to touch those other points to verify that it is not crossing some way!!

You may/may not have anything on the trailer brake pin, depending on how you are set up for braking.

Once verified good at the connector, add the cord and see that the needed voltage all worksgetting to the far end. This is where installers may have done their own "special" wiring, so just check that it comes out on some pin that matches what your car needs?

If you find RV good, cord good but it doesn't work right when you connect the car, you will know to check the car, right? I might lean toward corrosion, rust being a problem but wires get mashed together and cause the issue you seem to have, so look it over for odd looking parts like connectors that got loose and drug on the ground, etc??
The lower part of the front bumper is a rough neighborhood, so expect anything!

Also a different view of how it might be? second picture is as if looking at the cord ends.
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Old 12-30-2021, 08:58 AM   #3
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Richard, thank you - that is very thorough.

I will find a tester and try it on the back of my coach. The odd thing is that the coach right tail, brake and turn signals work until I have the cable hooked. So it leads me to believe it is a short somehow when I hook up - but I think testing is a good start.
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Old 12-30-2021, 02:22 PM   #4
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To cut the chase a bit, it might be fine to start with the cable hooked to the RV if it seems to be okay to that point, rather than testing at the RV connector and then the far end of the cable.
Since you have lights to look at, just trying it with the cable connected but just on one end might be a quick way to tell it is actually in the car? One of the things, I find might be suspect is right at the point where the cablegoes into the plug as that spot gets twisted and bent making it go bad quicker than other places. But then water filling the connector on the front of the car happens too as there is a lot of water going there!
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Old 01-05-2022, 04:50 PM   #5
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look for corrosion in the plug and receptacle. clean as best possible and apply electrolite.
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Old 01-05-2022, 06:26 PM   #6
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Everything morich says is right. Ready for the but?

Everything morich says is right. Ready for the but?

But, I always check connections from a good ground (just like he said) but on a dc voltage rated above 12vdc first. Learn where, or IF your power is there first.

It’s not a good technique to connect an ohm meter to a possible 12volt source. So I’d check the plug/socket for power than check using the ohm meter for resistance on any connection except ones I found 12 volts on. Sorry morich but my electrical trainings kicking in.


“The idea is to first check the ground pin on the connector by going to the resistance setting on your meter, one lead to some part of the frame which is ground and then the other lead to the ground point in the connector. Should show very low resistance. “
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Old 01-05-2022, 06:57 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 7997redtail View Post
Everything morich says is right. Ready for the but?

But, I always check connections from a good ground (just like he said) but on a dc voltage rated above 12vdc first. Learn where, or IF your power is there first.

It’s not a good technique to connect an ohm meter to a possible 12volt source. So I’d check the plug/socket for power than check using the ohm meter for resistance on any connection except ones I found 12 volts on. Sorry morich but my electrical trainings kicking in.


“The idea is to first check the ground pin on the connector by going to the resistance setting on your meter, one lead to some part of the frame which is ground and then the other lead to the ground point in the connector. Should show very low resistance. “
Fully agree with this! Not so much that I was lacking the training to not use a resistance scale when voltage may be there but more just forgetting that what is "natural" for the guys who do it much still needs to be mentioned when telling it to others!

One of the big hazards when training new people is that I had to be very careful not to get into too many jokes because new folks don't know you ARE joking!

Training a new girl on how to do a generator run and we did an hour run and were discussing how to set it for the next use by always checking the oil and water so it is ready to go. Standing there next to a 87 KW generator that had run for an hour and she asked, "how do I check the water?" We talked about how to pull the cap (real careful!!) and looking in she asked, "how do I know if it's enough?"

Never tell new folks to stick their finger in a hot radiator----they may try to do it!
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Old 01-05-2022, 08:19 PM   #8
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I’ve seen a **** load of your replies.

As far as I’m concerned you are what I think of as a trusted source. I’d guess that around 30 or 40 percent of replies are “good”. The rest you need to really think about or consider as questionable.

Thanks for your responses I personally appreciate yours.

Jim
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Old 01-06-2022, 03:10 AM   #9
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We have had the exact same problem - left rear lights on coach and toad not working. I am not sure if your coach has the same thing as ours, but here is what we found. The coach batteries are on the driver's side and the house batteries are on the passenger side. Just aft of the coach batteries is a circuit board with a black plastic cover. We had a mobile tech out (because the Freightliner service place and our dealer were pointing the finger at each other for responsibility) and after an hour of troubleshooting he was getting up off the ground and put his hand on that plastic cover for support...the lights came on. Pulled his hand off - lights off. Pushed the cover - lights on. He checked all the fuses, but in the end tightening the board screws in the four corners did the trick. Not comforting and I still plan to call Winnebago to find out whose responsibility that circuit board is. But at least we can drive safely for now.
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Old 01-06-2022, 09:51 AM   #10
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I’m on a Freightliner chassis and have a set of fuses that protect the 7 pin outlet. It located in the right rear compartment along with a lot of other electronic components. Had to remove a snap on cover to see the fuses. 2” X 3” cover marked Buseman.
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Old 01-06-2022, 10:16 AM   #11
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light, lights, toad

Although not exactly the same problem, but a difficult wiring issue I experienced was with a short in a light socket on the toad. As soon as I connected the toad and applied the brakes, none of the lights worked on the toad. I found a blown fuse in the MH. I replaced the fuse and again I could connect, but as soon as I tried to move the coach with the car connected the fuse in the MH would blow again. I went through all of the wiring things I could find and could not find an obvious short. At some point, I took the bulb out of one of the toad sockets because cold resistance in the filament so low that it always looked like there was a short. With the bulb gone, the circuit showed and open circuit as it should. I thought it was the bulb, but when I installed another bulb, it again blew the fuse. The short only occurred when the light bult was install. These were extra sockets installed in the same housing as the tail/brake lights on the car, so it didn't affect the car light functions. Just showing the unexpected things that can go wrong in electrical circuits.
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Old 01-06-2022, 01:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie M View Post
We have had the exact same problem - left rear lights on coach and toad not working. I am not sure if your coach has the same thing as ours, but here is what we found. The coach batteries are on the driver's side and the house batteries are on the passenger side. Just aft of the coach batteries is a circuit board with a black plastic cover. We had a mobile tech out (because the Freightliner service place and our dealer were pointing the finger at each other for responsibility) and after an hour of troubleshooting he was getting up off the ground and put his hand on that plastic cover for support...the lights came on. Pulled his hand off - lights off. Pushed the cover - lights on. He checked all the fuses, but in the end tightening the board screws in the four corners did the trick. Not comforting and I still plan to call Winnebago to find out whose responsibility that circuit board is. But at least we can drive safely for now.
I wouldn't count on the circuit working all the time under your conditions, sounds to me like there is a cold solder joint on the circuit board or a broken trace on said board. The cold solder joint can be repaired by resoldering the connections and the broken trace can be repaired by soldering a jumper across the break!
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