Solar Panel Install - Page 2

Marine359 · 06-08-2022, 06:43 PM

Yeah,
Air deflector part of the plan. Hopefully can accomplish that with vinyl molding and eternabond tape.

BarryLS · 06-08-2022, 10:50 PM

As long a you keep the air from getting underneath, the airflow over should not cause a problem with a flat panel.

lenore · 06-09-2022, 07:29 AM

I used the well nuts on my T track install, with Renogy Solid panels, just did not trust the VHB tape alone. I also used bathroom tub vinyl molding to create a air dam on front of panel, the T track blocks any air movement from the sides. So far very happy with results. Funny I too was thinking of a safety cable, but feel the T track with well nuts is very secure. I still have one or two more panels to mount.

Marine359 · 06-09-2022, 08:00 AM

Thanks Lenore. Do you have any photos of your install that you can post here or on your album?

lenore · 06-10-2022, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marine359

Thanks Lenore. Do you have any photos of your install that you can post here or on your album?

Here are some pictures. Note the air dam I created on lead edge of panel, the T track stops all side air flow. The back is open. I used well nuts with the tracking along with the VHB 3m tape and sealed edges of track with Dicor, leaving a few gaps for water drainage. So far seems very secure, and the well nuts definetly better than just the screws on my older panels. The 1/8 luan just doesnot hold the screws well. Used stainless steel hardware for fastening panels to T track.

BobC · 06-10-2022, 01:02 PM

Nice install. I like the T-Track, they simplify removing/remounting or replacing the panels if necessary. Plus the single bolt holding the L bracket to the panel allows for angling it to match the curve of the roof. This is something that first time installers often overlook until they find out the roof isn't flat side to side. Sometimes it's a gentle curve but other times it's not. Being aluminum, I prefer the T-Track to some of the other installations that use galvanized Unistrut or similar products.

lenore · 06-10-2022, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

Nice install. I like the T-Track, they simplify removing/remounting or replacing the panels if necessary. Plus the single bolt holding the L bracket to the panel allows for angling it to match the curve of the roof. This is something that first time installers often overlook until they find out the roof isn't flat side to side. Sometimes it's a gentle curve but other times it's not. Being aluminum, I prefer the T-Track to some of the other installations that use galvanized Unistrut or similar products.

Exactly my thoughts, I had a sunpower flexible panel die, so I installed these two Renogy panels. performance is excellent with three panels I am getting 15amps most days. I have one external panel that I can move on the ground if necessary. Next replacing the remaining flexible with another Renogy panel.

BobC · 06-10-2022, 02:58 PM

I've been delayed in installing my two 180 watt panels on my MH so I'm glad I saw your t-track install. I also have an extra 100W panel I'm planning on using as a portable. Initially I was going to install two 100W panels on on my van but went with one since don't think I need it. My power needs in the van are modest. If I decide to mount it on the van at a later date, I can.

MicroMinnie · 06-12-2022, 04:36 PM

Ideally you would anchor this with bolts/nuts/washers on both sides of the roof

Most cases you cannot get to the bottom, so screws next option. screwed ours down 12 screws per panel

each corner plus two more on front side

Sullivanclan · 06-12-2022, 05:36 PM

We just did two, 200 watt Renogy panels and attached with 3m tape, screws and finished with Dicor.

Marine359 · 06-12-2022, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sullivanclan

We just did two, 200 watt Renogy panels and attached with 3m tape, screws and finished with Dicor.

On a rubber TT roof, or a fiberglass roof?

Sullivanclan · 06-12-2022, 05:42 PM

Fiberglass, Winnebago

bobmac · 06-12-2022, 07:41 PM

I have 400 watts (4-100watt panels) of solar since 2013. I used "3M5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant". 5200 is an extremely strong and durable adhesive. I used 1.5" angle aluminum held on the roof by the 5200. This allowed air to circulate under the panels.
There is not a better or more powerful adhesive than 5200. I used it extensively in my boating days and it is readily available at marine suppliers.
I used 4 pieces of 1.5" aluminum angle about 2" long on the roof and a second piece the same size screwed to bottom frame of the solar panel. I installed the solar in 2013 and have had absolutely no issues with the panels.
If you have never used 3M5200, you will find a new friend that will hold anything to the roof but allow 7 days for it to fully cure.

MicroMinnie · 06-12-2022, 08:29 PM

You can glue an entire boat together with 3m 5200 and it will never come apart. works great with wood and fiberglass

problem is with solar panels and rubber roofs, the rubber lining comes off real easy once you start pulling. one should never glue a raised solar panel to a rubber roof.

BobC · 06-12-2022, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MicroMinnie

You can glue an entire boat together with 3m 5200 and it will never come apart. works great with wood and fiberglass

problem is with solar panels and rubber roofs, the rubber lining comes off real easy once you start pulling. one should never glue a raised solar panel to a rubber roof.

I agree, and the same goes for Winnebago's thin Filon plus Luan roofs. In another thread, I recommended rubber well nuts for both applications. Here's a Youtube video on the them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4_QOihntPY

cruizerEd · 06-13-2022, 04:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

.... Here's a Youtube video on the them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4_QOihntPY

Pretty picture but it leaves out the very substantial foam glued to the bottom that will not let that rubber sink expand.

lenore · 06-13-2022, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruizerEd

Pretty picture but it leaves out the very substantial foam glued to the bottom that will not let that rubber sink expand.

When you drill the hole for the well nut the foam being quite soft is destroyed around the hole area. Same as when you use just a regular screw. Trust me the foam is no match for the well nut. Throughout my RV the foam is terrible at holding anything with screws, the filon, rubber TPO on wood, etc is the only surface that really grabs the fastener.

BobC · 06-13-2022, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lenore

When you drill the hole for the well nut the foam being quite soft is destroyed around the hole area. Same as when you use just a regular screw. Trust me the foam is no match for the well nut. Throughout my RV the foam is terrible at holding anything with screws, the filon, rubber TPO on wood, etc is the only surface that really grabs the fastener.

Lenore is 100% correct. The foam provides rigidity to the roof sandwich by being laminated between two layers of 1/8" Luan plywood. Although it performs this function well, it's relatively soft and it easily compresses when pressure is applied to a small area by something like a well nut.

Marine359 · 06-13-2022, 08:48 AM

So does this mean we’ll nuts are not suitable for rubber roofs? You can’t glue on panels, as up pressure could just rip the membrane off. So what’s left? Only option is to use wood screws into rafters?

BobC · 06-13-2022, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marine359

So does this mean we’ll nuts are not suitable for rubber roofs? You can’t glue on panels, as up pressure could just rip the membrane off. So what’s left? Only option is to use wood screws into rafters?

No, it means they're perfect for both rubber and Filon roofs. They penetrate through the underlying Luan plywood and expand, just like in the video. If you can screw into a rafter with conventional screws, all the better.