Sharp carousal micro

Xeroid · 03-20-2005, 04:53 PM

Any suggestions as to why a Sharp convection micro wont work on convection. seems like the temp is way off on it. Could it need calibrated or something. Works fine for microwaving. Would appreciate any suggestions or fixes.

Xeroid · 03-20-2005, 04:53 PM

Any suggestions as to why a Sharp convection micro wont work on convection. seems like the temp is way off on it. Could it need calibrated or something. Works fine for microwaving. Would appreciate any suggestions or fixes.

TJM · 03-22-2005, 06:27 PM

Our Sharp conv/microwave had the same problem last spring. Luckily it was still under warranty & Winnebago replaced it. You might try phoning an authorized Sharp repair place. If I remember correctly, there is a part that is needed to repair it.

The Shadow · 03-23-2005, 04:07 PM

TJM - is it possible to find out what part needs replacing? My DW has been on my back since we got our coach at the end of May 04. She has purchased a temperature gauge and, to take tonight as an example, she set it for 450 and it didn't get over 350. This has been driving her nuts and she is very upset with the Sharp Carousel MW/Convection unit. Further, the stainless steel is FAR from stainless. She did some salmon in it one night and it has been murder to get the stains off (have been using Bar Keepers Friend and it is the only thing that has worked - a little).

Our dealer has not shown many signs of brilliance and it would be helpful to know which part needs replacement.

Thanks

Don

Al10453 · 03-25-2005, 09:22 AM

Had mine "fixed twice", finally found my voltage was low. It needs to be 120 volts to work properly.If not it doesn't reach the correct temperature & seems to take forever to cook.

The Shadow · 03-25-2005, 09:48 AM

What is "low" voltage. We have been in the 120+ area most of the time but when it is hot and air conditioners are on all over the park it could drop. Will be watching it closely from here on.

When we arrived here in November the voltage was over 130 on a regular basis and that shut off our power since the 50 amp surge protector shuts down when voltage is over 260.

The Shadow · 03-25-2005, 11:23 AM

Well, that may have been our problem. I've just been occasionally glancing at the volt meter and just went to look at it and it is down to 118 or so. I guess with the heavy use of airconditioning in the park the past week or so that voltage has dropped off from 124 or so. We will now watch the reading whenever we need a high heat. Bev found that she could get 350 and sometimes not even that. On a couple of occasions she did get it to 450. So, I think you've daignosed our problem.

Thanks

TXiceman · 03-25-2005, 12:55 PM

The power companies have to produce power plus or minus a given percentage. Motor manufactures typically make theri motors suitable for +/- 10% of the 120 volts, so you should be able to run as low as 108 volts. Most electronic equipment is set up to the same variances.

Ken

The Shadow · 03-25-2005, 02:19 PM

FPL (Florida Power and Light) states:

What is a voltage fluctuation?

A voltage fluctuation occurs when there is a dip or spike in the electrical flow to your home. The state of Florida requires that utilities normally operate within a range of +/- 8 volts (112 - 128) from standard voltage (120), but FPL prefers to keep this range within +/-6 volts (114 - 126). Fluctuations of more than 6 volts may cause your lights to dim or brighten.

The guy that came to our Park didn't want to turn down the 131 we were getting that was shutting down my Surge Protector. He said take the Surge Protector off. We said nuts, fix it or pay for the damage if we take it off.

The problem with lower voltage seems to be what happens when a power hog cuts in - like the air conditioner/heat pump. Although a MW/Convection oven will work when the voltage drops to 115, for example, I have a feeling that what is lost is the higher temperatures.

My wife points out that when she wants the high temps is when everyone else is cooking and when air conditioners are cranked up.

I've got her tuned into watching the voltage meter and we are going to try to determine if low voltage has been causing the problem. She has been able to preheat to 450 several times, and then the other day couldn't get over 350. After seeing the comment above I realized - yes - air conditoners on everywhere.

If it is not a voltage issue then we have to have it fixed or replace.

Canuck · 03-25-2005, 04:10 PM

Hi Don,
Have you tried running the mic from your generator? That should give you a good idea of whether the problem is related to line voltage or not.
Regrads.
Canuck
PS It's still winter up here!

bobpie · 03-25-2005, 04:29 PM

Nice mid entry coach, W'll have to keep an eye out for that one! Although diesel is Very expensive now.

The Shadow · 03-25-2005, 05:12 PM

I was going to run gennie tomorrow and try it but voltage now back at 124. I think whenever Bev has wanted to use the Convection it is in prime power time and everyone's air conditioner running. Park power is handled by FTL (Florida Power and Light) and there is lots of it though - many park models have 100 amp service - but when it gets humid like it has been lately the airconditioners start sucking it up I guess. We are going to try it tomorrow and will use gennie if voltage shows low from FPL.

TJM · 03-25-2005, 08:08 PM

Dleslie -- I would also try phoning a Sharp authorized repair place. They may be able to tell you if the problem is a particular part. Luckily we live close enough to the Winnebago factory that they replaced our entire micro/convection & not just a part. The problem ours had was the micro part didn't work at all & the convection worked poorly.

The Shadow · 03-26-2005, 06:00 AM

I'll leave calling Sharp until we test it ourselves. We called them with the stains on the so called stainless steel interior and they were absolutely useless. Just said, sorry, can't help you. We certainly wouldn't go out of our way to buy a Sharp.

Clay L · 03-26-2005, 06:23 PM

We had a problem with ours at first but found that you do have to do the preheat procedure they specify.
If you are already doing that, then please disregard this.

The Shadow · 03-26-2005, 06:35 PM

Yes, we have been doing the preheating. The other day the food required 450 degrees but in preheating could only get to 350 degrees. We think it was the voltage but will know more when we test.

Tomorrow is Camping World and then Lazydays so it will likely be Monday test day.

Winnobego · 03-27-2005, 06:35 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Xeroid:
Any suggestions as to why a Sharp convection micro wont work on convection. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Basiclly the convection ovens in 120 v models are useless. They need 220 to do it right. I would suggest going to a small appliance dealer and discussing it with them.

"007" · 03-27-2005, 07:10 AM

Newmar puts in a GE micro-convection in theirs works great for us,120v all thats needed, use Gen if in doubt. We have done roasts an bake cakes wonderful results.

---"007"

CactusCampin' · 04-15-2005, 09:14 PM

We had a sharp carousel convection/microwave in our MH. I tried every thing suggested on the forum and by sharp and did pre-heat to no avail.
Never did get it to work!!!
Very happy now with a trailer AND a propane range that works GREAT!

The Shadow · 04-16-2005, 05:47 AM

Cactus, don't say that. DW wants a propane range.

Well, good thing she doesn't read these forums.