refrig power

richierich · 08-13-2005, 12:12 PM

Need help on this one. Frig runs on propane, and genset power, but will not run on shore power from Camp ground, my rv power hook up at home. Called everyone I could think of, from Winny tech line, norcold,auto transfer co. , It only affects the frig when useing AC, nothing else is affected, washer, tv, dvd,just the frig, cant explain,or anyone else ither. Thanks Rich R, for any help.

richierich · 08-13-2005, 12:12 PM

Need help on this one. Frig runs on propane, and genset power, but will not run on shore power from Camp ground, my rv power hook up at home. Called everyone I could think of, from Winny tech line, norcold,auto transfer co. , It only affects the frig when useing AC, nothing else is affected, washer, tv, dvd,just the frig, cant explain,or anyone else ither. Thanks Rich R, for any help.

DriVer · 08-13-2005, 01:26 PM

Now that's a good one!

If the refer works on generator power then it's unlikely that is won't run on pedestal power.

The generator feeds the same receptacle for the 110V connection to the fridge and it's controlled by the same breaker in the panel.

When you plug in from the pedestal can you meter 110V at the receptacle behind the fridge?

richierich · 08-13-2005, 01:46 PM

Answer to Drivers ??, yes I have 110v at the receptical behind the frig. I can remove the plug, start the genset, plug the cord in, frig works. Stop the genset, plug into shore line, frig doesnt work, LED, on frig says no AC. Tried every way to correct, nothing. Power cord works fine, cause every thing else works,TV,washer/drier,DVD player. Main power supply box in cabinet that has the power cord, removed the cover, all the lugs are tight, nothing showing that would cause the problem. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thudman · 08-13-2005, 04:06 PM

Perhaps an EMS anomoly. If your rig is 50A service, plug into less than 50A (30 or 20) and see if the fridge has been load shed by the EMS (check the green LED on the EMS). If the fridge has not been load shed, the problem is elsewhere; maybe in the fridge?

The green LED's are lit with 50A svc, and the EMS should not be active. Only an anomoly would cause any load shed action in the 50A mode, but it might be worth a try. The EMS has generally been very reliable.

Barring that, can you plug the fridge into a 110V extension cord from an alternative good known 110V AC source? This would verify that good 110V AC is getting to the fridge.

Thudman

vicsryd · 08-13-2005, 05:25 PM

RR,

The only story I've heard anything like yours was a EMS with a current sensing loop problem so it never thought it was plugged in. What 110v there was coming through the inverter while shoreline supplied the batteries. In this mode all the 110v connections except the fridge and A/C have juice. But the PowerLine EMS panel was dark as if it didn't think it was plugged in so it was obvious.

If your EMS is okay then I'm curious what the results are from plugging the fridge directly into a grounded extension cord as Thudman suggests.

richierich · 08-14-2005, 09:55 AM

Answer to seperate 110v power cord. the frig works fine with a seperate power sourse. Have power from the breaker, to were ever the ac goes to first, before the frig. Have not got a clue. Another odd things hapens to the EMS board. The 50 amp LED lights up for no apparent reason also. The only way to switch to the 30 or 20 amp postions, is the switch off the main breaker, or pull the power cord from the AC supply. Guess a winnie dealer gets a call, wish me luck.

dirko · 08-15-2005, 06:06 AM

Hi Ho: The reason you are having problems getting a solution is that the data is not complete. If the ac power is present (and at the correct voltage) the refrigerator will function regardless of the source. It can't tell where the power comes from. Get a good digital voltmeter and measure right where the refrigerator plugs in, to determine that the voltage is correct. Also don't forget to check the 12 VDC. Most refrigerators won't work if it is missing or low even if connected to ac. I would suggest that you might have a voltage waveform problem but the power line is as close to a sinusoid as you will get. Power factor on the ac line "could" be a problem, but I don't have any idea how it could be small enough to actually be a consideration. If, for some reason, you don't mesure betwenn 110 and 120 volts at the receptacle (plug) that is a different problem. Good luck.

MrTransistor · 08-15-2005, 06:47 AM

Hi RR,
You might also verify that hot is hot and neutral is neutral in the refrigerator's outlet.

"007" · 08-15-2005, 07:32 AM

RR, do you have 110 at all your ac outlets when plugin shore power

If not tranfer switch maybe faulty for 110 side for shore power. You can manually push in relay on tranfer switch to gain power from shore power until replacement. Refer may also be off a gnd fault outlet in bath or kitchen area.

"007"

richierich · 08-15-2005, 11:12 AM

Well the refer problem fixed itself. After useing a meter to check every outlet, from the rear of the refrig, to the circuit breakers, and to the auto transfer switch junction box, this is what happened. After back tracking my actions, when this problem started, we were able to correct the problem. I had the genset running, with the AC on, trying to cool down the coach. were driving at the time. The genset stopped running, with a load on it. The genset failed to reset it self, and could not recognize 110v,from shore power, from genset 50 amp power. By accident, we started the genset, ran for 10 to 15 minutes, during this time, were taking measurements with a the amp prob, along with the meters. The inverter / charger started running normal, that was also a fluke, ever notice when you dont hear a certain noise, that you were use to hearing. Anyway, shut the genset down, plugged the power cord in to the 110v outlet, and presto, every thing running normal. Forgot to mention, the washer / drier also was not getting power, thru the shore power line. The frig and washer though a double throw breaker. After 5 hrs of trouble shooting, it corrected it self. If it ever happens again, I sure know what to do. Hope this helps others, if it happens to them. Thanks to those that offered advise, and ways to correct the problem. I wonder what a dealer would have got for the time it took to correct, and the parts he would have installed, just to find a solution to fix the not a problem after all.

RKL2 · 08-15-2005, 12:00 PM

RR...had same problem....what was causing my problem was the 50 amp to 30 amp dogbone that I had to attach to my 50 amp cord. It was broken on one leg ad that was the leg for the refer.Bought a new dogbone and problem was fixed. continunity tester proved one of the legs was dead...if it is not your dogbone check the house receptacle to make sure you have power on both legs......RKL

vicsryd · 08-29-2005, 06:27 AM

RR,

You last post was a little hard to follow but I think I got it. The W/D not getting power was a key piece of missing information. To be sure, on Winnies the W/D and the fridge only get AC from the genset or shoreline, not the inverter.

Reading between the lines (getset shutdown/reset problem preceding fridge problem) it sounds like have a transfer switch problem and it may occur again.