Can someone tell me the significance of Yellow wire codes with a 2 on the end?
Specifically "JH2 and JJ2?
I asked because ...
I removed a Double gain wall switch in main hallway today preparing to install new ATC Dimmer switches. I was hoping to find a ground.
The 1st thing I saw was 3 wires hanging loose behind & separate from the switches wiring, I pulled the not connected wires out and two were yellow and one was white.
So I write down the Winnebago codes on the yellow wire 329026-001-JH2 and 329026-001-JJ2
I pull a Winnebago wiring diagram I believe sent to me from this site and I find JH2 is 12v+ Main Furnace and JJ2 is 12v- Main Furnace. Voltmeter confirmed so the white is a Ground But how can that be, My Main furnace works fine and these wires don't connect to anything
I would like to cut and tap into the white wire for ground for new dimmers but don't want to blow anything up behind that wall
Winnebago has a Wiring Identification Guide that should be on the wiring diagrams page of their website. Unfortunately at the moment they seem to have completely broken the Owner's Resources section of their website and I can't get to any of their diagrams, etc.
I would recommend giving Owner Relations a call and they may be able to send your that pdf file (or fix the website!).
Winnebago has a Wiring Identification Guide that should be on the wiring diagrams page of their website. Unfortunately at the moment they seem to have completely broken the Owner's Resources section of their website and I can't get to any of their diagrams, etc.
I would recommend giving Owner Relations a call and they may be able to send your that pdf file (or fix the website!).
Thanks. My puzzlement is that I have the wiring installation guide, but none of the wiring codes end with numeric digits? The wires are coded for the MAIN FURNACE but there is no #2 on the end of the numbers in the guy but it is on the yellow wire?
Additionally since those wires are NOT connected to anything they can't control the Furnace which works perfectly fine.
My best guess, is that it is extra wires for some kind of expansion? These wires must be incoming power from the 12vdc panel because the JH2 is hot and the JJ2 is negative. The white wire in bundfle with it is Ground.
I think I got this wire list from Morich, but maybe Cbeierl posted it in another thread and I downloaded the .pdf for future reference. So you can thank these guys not me.
See attached .pdf.
Note: I don't think it matters which year RV you own. This .pdf will give a short description for each wire code for all models. I think?
White is not ground, it’s typical a common wire. So you need three wires for SOME things, while you ALWAYS need a hot and common lead, one doesn’t always NEED also a ground.
All of the dimmers I’ve installed work better with a third ground wire, but the one I couldn’t get one too, works well too. Just needs to warm up, and then not even always...
I think I got this wire list from Morich, but maybe Cbeierl posted it in another thread and I downloaded the .pdf for future reference. So you can thank these guys not me.
See attached .pdf.
Note: I don't think it matters which year RV you own. This .pdf will give a short description for each wire code for all models. I think?
I have the wiring diagram. Now that you mention, I am 100% sure now I got it from Morich (a while back when wiring my Jet Flo Macerator).
But I am doing a bad job of asking my current question
Given the wiring diagrams and given the codes; I am saying that I have two yellow wires that have codes JH2 and another JJ2. I don't see ANY code with 2 on the end. So my question what does the 2 on the end mean?
FWIW, when looking at the diagram, I find JH is 12v+ Main Furnace (Power) and JJ is 12v- Main Furnace (Heat)
Further, I was saying since those wires are disconnected, they do not run to my Thermostat that controls heat, so they must be extra wires? I was trying to verify what they were for as I was going to use the white wire as a ground for dimmer switches.
White is not ground, it’s typical a common wire. So you need three wires for SOME things, while you ALWAYS need a hot and common lead, one doesn’t always NEED also a ground.
All of the dimmers I’ve installed work better with a third ground wire, but the one I couldn’t get one too, works well too. Just needs to warm up, and then not even always...
Based on my testing with the voltmeter the white did in fact behave as a ground. When connected in tandem with a known 12v+ wire I got 13vdc I further pulled from the wiring diagram the picture below because Winnebago also states it is a Ground. (the White wire is labeled JM7) See Wire Code for JM; it is marked as the Ground for the Main Furnace. But again; this is why I created this thread, it is NOT CONNECTED to anything? My furnace is fine; so it is getting power elsewhere not these wires. Further, I don't know what the numbers mean behind the codes? In this case see the 7 in JM7.
Also, in another area (bedroom), I found a White wire that went to the 2nd Thermostat. I don't have the code, but I looked at the AirXcel drawing and the Blue wire from Thermostat is suppose to connect to a Ground source; currently it is connected to a white wire and how Winnebago wired it.
I don't have the new dimmers yet, but I plan to connect 4 of the new dimmer switches to both of these whites wires as Ground, and a 5th dimmer (behind the sofa) will be on an island by itself with no Ground.
Does anybody have the new route to get to the electrical info? Seemed to have been changed yet again! I can't access the wire DI chart to check so some memory work, perhaps?
I think I have decide the alpha/numeric combo relates to being associated with relay or possibly reversing switches. One case is the switch on the dash for changing radio from start to coach battery power. On the 2015 Vista, there are wires on it which do not show on the list and it does lead back to a relay that can be heard but not found!
This is one way it is used in model railroad work for reversing the power to DC power HO engines. You don't actually have a -12VDC and +12VDC power system, just change the point of reference where you are measuring!
We fall into the habit of thinking voltage is always how far off ground or zero but voltage is just the DIFFERENCE in two points. The result can be easier if we want it to look like positive 12VDC we test it one way and if we want it to appear to be negative voltage we can just swap the reference point around.
The potential from "hot" to "grnd" is still the same but just a different direction if we test from grnd to hot!!!
Carefull! This can mess with your mind if you let it. You may find the wire polarity swaps depending on the switch positon or the operated, non-operated state of a relay. A wire that shows/tests ground now but power in a few minutes???? It also can blow fuses!
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
Does anybody have the new route to get to the electrical info? Seemed to have been changed yet again! I can't access the wire DI chart to check so some memory work, perhaps?...
As far as I can tell everything is broken with their latest re-org of the website!
As far as I can tell everything is broken with their latest re-org of the website!
I kind of went a round or two with customer care a few weeks ago, but the 12vdc drawings for my 2019 Sunstar 29VE were either inaccurate or incomplete.
They finally got rid of me by insisting I take the coach to a Winnebago dealer to check out what was wrong. I am still trying to work that in but it could be forever, as I am not inclined to put my RV in the shop for non critical activity such as this during summer.
12vdc issues I have open questions with.
1. How is my Inverter wired? I know it connects to the house batteries and there is 150 amp fuse in battery compartment, but once that wire leaves that compartment; where it runs and what is in between as it ends up at the Inverter is a mystery
When I turn my House Batteries OFF, it takes 30 minutes before all items on the Inverter circuit lose power. Winnebago blames Magnum Energy, but Magnum Energy engineering insist it is impossible for my 1000KW to continue to operate without source power. They say they have no capacitors holding charge or anything like that. To prove; they cite my model will auto shut down if voltage drop to a setpoint where it can no longer operate. The drawings have been useless, and Winnebago says what is online is all I can get
2. Given that Winnebago did not put dimmer switches in these coaches, why didn't they at least make it possible for a ground to be nearby every switch? Or maybe they did like the Jh2, JJ2 and JM7 switches behind wall with Thermostat & EMS as it appears to be a redundant source of power and a ground. But I happened to find it by chance with a flashlight looking in a hole If there was a good wiring diagram, perhaps there is more other wires that I could use?
All of the dimmers I’ve installed work better with a third ground wire, but the one I couldn’t get one too, works well too. Just needs to warm up, and then not even always...
I received four of the ATC dimmers today. I did a quick test and the ones connected to the ground works fine as expected , but when I put on a switch with no ground available, the light turns on / off but the dimmer had no functionality
Can you confirm how you wired the the 3 wires to the two that are available? Basically I left the Ground (black wire disconnected).
I received four of the ATC dimmers today. I did a quick test and the ones connected to the ground works fine as expected , but when I put on a switch with no ground available, the light turns on / off but the dimmer had no functionality
Can you confirm how you wired the the 3 wires to the two that are available? Basically I left the Ground (black wire disconnected).
Looks like I will only have 4 that will work
Connect the ground wire of the switch to the common wire.
But if we are now also meant to lose the Wire ID charts, we might as well just hang it up as doing anything effective on DIY repair---and that would seem to be the result they are looking for, isn't it?
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
Connect the ground wire of the switch to the common wire.
I guess that is where we are miscommunicating? There is NO Common wire.
Old Switch
2 wire spade lead
Lead 1 is for 12v+ Input
Lead 2 is for out of switch to LED Lights
New Switch
3 stranded wires
Red is for 12v+ Input
White is for out of Switch to LED Lights
Black is for Ground
I found existing Ground wires for 4 of the locations I want to put new dimmers. Those wires are all White and they connect to the black wire of new switch and thus far they all appear to work fine.
However, for locations in the RV where no Ground is available white wire or direct to chassis, the dimmer does NOT function because there is no Ground? I only have two wires to physically connect in these locations which is 12v+ coming in, and the output direct to light. The Switch does turns the light on / off but does not dim. Of course my OEM did that.
So the real question is were you able wire a dimmer that had 3 wires to a location that only had 2 wires with no ground nor a chassis ground near by?
On a side note, one of the dimmer switches I received today was defective as the the slider was missing. So it will have to be returned. But at the moment, I may not be able to use a 3 wire dimmer PERIOD unless I can find a ground, which is Game Over for me.
I do have one more Dimmer switch due tomorrow, but it is double gang with the larger slider. It will go where I do have a ground so it should work.
To do what I need, I need a 2 wire switch for LED with to accept 12v+ in and 12v+ out to the light that is controlled by dimmer.
But if we are now also meant to lose the Wire ID charts, we might as well just hang it up as doing anything effective on DIY repair---and that would seem to be the result they are looking for, isn't it?
Your plumbing link errored out on me this morning. If the links are fixed, we should download everything we might need. If the links aren't fixed I'm sure that many of us have downloaded copies we can share. I have some for my 2002 35U somewhere, I just need to find them.
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Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Workhorse Chassis
Old Switch
2 wire spade lead
Lead 1 is for 12v+ Input
Lead 2 is for out of switch to LED Lights
New Switch
3 stranded wires
Red is for 12v+ Input
White is for out of Switch to LED Lights
Black is for Ground
I found existing Ground wires for 4 of the locations I want to put new dimmers. Those wires are all White and they connect to the black wire of new switch and thus far they all appear to work fine.
However, for locations in the RV where no Ground is available white wire or direct to chassis, the dimmer does NOT function because there is no Ground? I only have two wires to physically connect in these locations which is 12v+ coming in, and the output direct to light. The Switch does turns the light on / off but does not dim. Of course my OEM did that.
So the real question is were you able wire a dimmer that had 3 wires to a location that only had 2 wires with no ground nor a chassis ground near by?
Proof that beer and a good night's sleep cures all
Last night I got to wonder that given no ground wire to the switch, or opening area of the switch, how in the world do the lights come on when circuit is closed So I go the other way, I took off the nearest LED cover and sure enough I could see a ground wire It is NC2 on Winnebago's Wiring Diagram as a White Ground wire
I will need to fish a ground wire on a short run, but I can now effectively place the dimmers anywhere in the coach I want. I have this location, and two other's in mind that are all very close in proximity to it's LED light fixture. Note: the previous 4 I was able to access ground from an extra furnace wire not being used, and a thermostat in bedroom; so I should be good to go
It may be late to mention and my mind is not currently up to figuring the answers but are you thinking/planning for some LED being dimmable, while others may\may not?
You may already have it in the plan but for others reading this later, keep in mind that led do not operate on reduced current flow to dim as incandescent do, so we need to keep it in mind when wiring.
When replacing bulbs and you want to dim the light, make sure the LED is designed to do what is needed.
Not all LED are the same?
As BobC mentions, the ifo blackout seems to be a rolling work in progress as we gradually lose more and more of the good info we have come to depend on for our repairs.
My plumbing link above doesn't work today!
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
It may be late to mention and my mind is not currently up to figuring the answers but are you thinking/planning for some LED being dimmable, while others may\may not?
Yes, but not within the same LED Switch circuit. It works fine
You may already have it in the plan but for others reading this later, keep in mind that led do not operate on reduced current flow to dim as incandescent do, so we need to keep it in mind when wiring.
When replacing bulbs and you want to dim the light, make sure the LED is designed to do what is needed.
Not all LED are the same?
I have converted 4 switches to dimmable and in the process converting up to 3 more. It is a good point to note that you must purchase a dimmer specifically designed for LED lights. We don't have any incandescent in our RV
I got a suggestion for Dimmer switch on Amazon from Wyatt I saw a few knockoffs; so I actually spoke with ATC Engineering in Elkhart who makes the switches, they not only confirmed their workability but only with a GROUND; which I have learned vi atrial and error that it is impossible to work as a dimmer without. ATC states they have been trying to get Winnebago to put those same dimmers in at the factory. From what I saw last night it is night & day difference with the lighting, pun intended
I have not cut the walls yet to mount; rather I have been running the lights on at full load and dimmed to lowest setting which has a cool warm glow affect. Thus far; the switches show no sign of even get warm no matter how long I leave on
My biggest fear now turns to when it is time to cut the openings in the walls or cabinet larger for the permanent mounting Not sure I have the right tools for that
My new favorite tool is the oscillating tool when I get anywhere around stuff that I am afraid of cutting too Much!!!
One of the big things is not how well it works but how well it DOESN'T cut the stuff I don't want cut. It's nice that it does cut things like the thin fake plywood in RV but it is even nicer when I get it stuck on my fingers, etc and it DOESN'T cut them! You know I like to cut fast and deep sometimes and different blades will do that but I'm really impressed that I can turn it on and stick it in the palm of my hand without bringing blood!
I started out with a "name brand" Dremel and wore it out so soon on so many different uses that I decided I had to have a cheap one, just to have when needed and it's lasting pretty well. I have a brick house and trading out the windows and getting caulk off brick is one way to wear out a tool!
You can't go too far wrong spending $20 for a tool that works. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tou...Grit/730516237
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
But how can that be, My Main furnace works fine and these wires don't connect to anything 
(a while back when wiring my Jet Flo Macerator).
If there was a good wiring diagram, perhaps there is more other wires that I could use?
, but when I put on a switch with no ground available, the light turns on / off but the dimmer had no functionality 
Linear Mode
