Power upgrade on 2108FBS

[randyb]

This started as "I'm just going to put in a 100Ah battery and DC/DC charger". I was just worried about loosing power while winter camping and being able to keep the heat and tank heaters going. I thought I'd scale it out next summer before we take a longer trip. But, once I got going on it I decided it'd be easier to just do it all at once.


Plans and tutorial from Nate at Explorist.life

Main Components (ordered from Battle Born):

• (4) Battle Born 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries
• Victron Multiplus Inverter Charger 3000 W 12 V
• SmartSolar MPPT 150/85 TR VE.Can Charge Controller with Bluetooth
• VE. Bus Smart Dongle
• Orion-TR Smart 12/12V-30A Isolated Charger
• Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor with Bluetooth Built-in
• Victron Lynx Distributor

Solar Panels (790w), wired in series

• (1) GoPower 190w that came with trailer
• (3) Rich Solar 200W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Panel (confirmed with vendor support that the GoPower panel is compatible)

Battery cables and lugs orderdered from BatteryCablesUSA.com (all made in USA, too many bad reviews of various imported wire and connectors from amazon)
Anderson plug for connection from tow vehicle to trailer for DC/DC charger. Ran 4awg from truck battery to back just under trailer wire connection. Then 6awg from the trailer plug back to the DC/DC charger. Could have used all 6awg but was trying to future proof the truck wire in case of larger load in the future.
Tow vehicle (F150) alternator is 200amp
All other wiring and fuses per Nate’s diagram. If you watch the video, he explains all the sizing requirements.

Batteries located under bed. I chose this location to keep the batteries warmer.

All other equipment mounted ½” plywood installed on the rear wall of the front pass-through cargo bay (Multiplus has another ¾ plywood backer behind the ½”). The front cargo bay is insulated top and aft wall with 1” foil faced foam. The inverter does generate some heat so I’ll monitor temps in the summer.

Ran 10/3 shore power wire under floor from breaker panel to Multiplus.
Run phone cable for BMV-712 under floor, up behind breaker panel, up chase next to fridge, behind microwave and through cabinet above sink to area behind switch panel by door. Mount battery gauge above switch panel.


I'm just two connectors short of finishing the solar array but it looks like we'll have fog here in the NW all week anyway so no real testing opportunities.


I can turn on the A/C if I have my 1750w generator plugged in. I have a soft start on order and that should allow it to run without the generator. The Multiplus charger/inverter will take whatever you have shore power plugged into and then if that isn't sufficient for the load, it will pull off the battery bank.

[Marine359]

Nice install Randy!

[creativepart]

Very nice Randy and the install looks great. The more you use this system the more you’ll learn it’s true value… but also it’s limits. Be aware that “winter camping and being able to keep the heat and tank heaters going” can use nearly as much power as running the air conditioner.

[randyb]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Very nice Randy and the install looks great. The more you use this system the more you’ll learn it’s true value… but also it’s limits. Be aware that “winter camping and being able to keep the heat and tank heaters going” can use nearly as much power as running the air conditioner.

Thanks. I am curious to see the limits of the system. I'll be bringing the little generator along to supplement when necessary.

[Fred 2106DS]

Very nice install Randy, thanks for sharing!

[Wyatt]

Nice job! I Cringe thinking of having to crawl in there and wire all of that…

[Marine359]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Nice job! I Cringe thinking of having to crawl in there and wire all of that…

Can’t be done by a 70yo with bad heart. If I were able to crawl in, with my girth, my dw would not be able to pull me out without a lot of Crisco. I wired everything to a plywood backer, then paid a young guy to crawl in and screw the backer to the bulkhead.

[randyb]

I got the SoftStartRV unit installed in the 15K btu air conditioner (fairly easy install, they provide everything) and the highest it hit on startup was 1245 watts, and held that after. I ordered a Champion 2500w dual fuel generator to have along and plan to only ever use propane to avoid gas smell wherever I store it.

[randyb]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Nice job! I Cringe thinking of having to crawl in there and wire all of that…

Thanks. It wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be, although there did seem to be more than a normal amount of forgetting one tool every time I went in, prompting some swearing.

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by randyb

Thanks. I am curious to see the limits of the system. I'll be bringing the little generator along to supplement when necessary.

Hi Randy,

I was curious if you have had a chance to test the solar portion of your install yet? I took a second look at your OP and it appears from your roof picture, the left rear solar panel is beneath the overhang of your antenna. If that is so, being that the panels are wired in series, the shadowing from the antenna will probably lead to a significant reduction in the power output of your solar panels.

Fred

[randyb]

Originally Posted by Fred 2106DS

Hi Randy,

I was curious if you have had a chance to test the solar portion of your install yet? I took a second look at your OP and it appears from your roof picture, the left rear solar panel is beneath the overhang of your antenna. If that is so, being that the panels are wired in series, the shadowing from the antenna will probably lead to a significant reduction in the power output of your solar panels.

Fred

Hi Fred,

We've had fog here most of the last week so haven't tested yet. You are right and good catch. I didn't notice while installing as I was trying to leave the most walkway I could down the center. I doubt we'll use the tv anntenna but perhaps a different kind or maybe I can move that panel over.


Thanks,
Randy

[geoham]

Great job. Nice clean install, with everything switched, and fused, and accessible for maintenance! Just little things like the 1"X1" wood trim screwed to the bottom of the floor in the "basement" to keep sliding tubs from sliding into your converter/inverter/solar charge controller etc. Great idea.

I have a 2017 1706FB, have bought a 100 Ah LiPO4FE battery, and am going to do the switch out this spring along with more solar panels. You have given me some great ideas.

Thank you for sharing and taking the time to take some very excellent pictures!

Mike

[randyb]

Originally Posted by geoham

Great job. Nice clean install, with everything switched, and fused, and accessible for maintenance! Just little things like the 1"X1" wood trim screwed to the bottom of the floor in the "basement" to keep sliding tubs from sliding into your converter/inverter/solar charge controller etc. Great idea.

I have a 2017 1706FB, have bought a 100 Ah LiPO4FE battery, and am going to do the switch out this spring along with more solar panels. You have given me some great ideas.

Thank you for sharing and taking the time to take some very excellent pictures!

Mike

Thanks, Mike! One thing to keep in mind when you do your battery swap is the onboard converter that comes with our trailers wont charge at a high enough voltage to get the LiPo4FE batteries to 100%. Battleborn (and I'm sure others) has a direct replacement unit though.

[geoham]

Yep. Ordered and now have the WFCO WF-8955PEC-B-LIS Power Center with Lithium-Ion Switch. I'll exchange the guts with the one in the TT, and that way I can properly charge the LiPO4FE battery.

[fringemtm]

Randy, really nice install. I'm exploring doing the same thing. I have a 2021 2108FBS and was wondering if you had to replace the wires from the roof entry gland to the solar controller? From looking at my system where they only installed a flexible 100 watt panel to a 20A solar controller, the wire is 14 gauge. Not sure if they upgraded it for the 2022 models with the 190 watt panel. If not, does anyone know if someone has and how much a pain it is.

[randyb]

Originally Posted by fringemtm

Randy, really nice install. I'm exploring doing the same thing. I have a 2021 2108FBS and was wondering if you had to replace the wires from the roof entry gland to the solar controller? From looking at my system where they only installed a flexible 100 watt panel to a 20A solar controller, the wire is 14 gauge. Not sure if they upgraded it for the 2022 models with the 190 watt panel. If not, does anyone know if someone has and how much a pain it is.

Thanks. I did not. Fortunately for me, they did upgrade to 10 gauge down to the solar controller for the '22 model.



If it were me, I'd maybe come in above the refrigerator and run the wire behind the fridge, then behind the fuse box. From there just run it with the 10-3 wire that goes up to the inverter. It would be adding another gland but once through the roof it'd be easy to run the wire (I'm assuming the frig wouldn't be hard to take out).

[fringemtm]

Randy, thanks for the quick reply. I will see what I can remove to figure out best way to get new wires through.


Matt