Park RV at Home for Winter

Nick and Sheila · 11-17-2004, 05:36 AM

We are considering keep the RV in our yard this winter so we can keep it plugged in for the winter. I am adding a 30amp plug to the outside of the house so I will have adequate power. I still need to measure the distance between the MH and the plug so I can use the wire cal I found on the site to measure the voltage drop over distance to see if I will need 10ga or 8ga cable. We have a full cover for the RV that has the zip door openings to cover her and I will cut down two trees, a pine and a sweet gum that would be next to it to keep the junk off the roof. Here are some of my questions.
Will we still need to dump all the tanks, do the blow down of the plumbing, put AF in the P traps, winterize the WD and Icemaker since we are going to keep it plugged and set the Temp to 55 deg.? I know this will cause the Furnace to lite off so I will ensure the cover is not over the furnace exhaust in the back and also make sure the AC/Heat pump area is clear since the temp rises during the day and the heat pumps will work. I will also need to start the generator at least once a week and run it for an hour under load. I am going to fill the fuel tank up, but we plan on using the MH during the winter, so I am not sure if I need to put anything into the fuel tank. Since the solar panel will be covered, I will ck the battiers once a week for levels and chg. I am also going to contact the local propane dealer to see if he can come to the house if the LP runs low and fill the coach in place. What am I forgetting? Any ideas from the group? Thank you all in advance.

Nick and Sheila · 11-17-2004, 05:36 AM

We are considering keep the RV in our yard this winter so we can keep it plugged in for the winter. I am adding a 30amp plug to the outside of the house so I will have adequate power. I still need to measure the distance between the MH and the plug so I can use the wire cal I found on the site to measure the voltage drop over distance to see if I will need 10ga or 8ga cable. We have a full cover for the RV that has the zip door openings to cover her and I will cut down two trees, a pine and a sweet gum that would be next to it to keep the junk off the roof. Here are some of my questions.
Will we still need to dump all the tanks, do the blow down of the plumbing, put AF in the P traps, winterize the WD and Icemaker since we are going to keep it plugged and set the Temp to 55 deg.? I know this will cause the Furnace to lite off so I will ensure the cover is not over the furnace exhaust in the back and also make sure the AC/Heat pump area is clear since the temp rises during the day and the heat pumps will work. I will also need to start the generator at least once a week and run it for an hour under load. I am going to fill the fuel tank up, but we plan on using the MH during the winter, so I am not sure if I need to put anything into the fuel tank. Since the solar panel will be covered, I will ck the battiers once a week for levels and chg. I am also going to contact the local propane dealer to see if he can come to the house if the LP runs low and fill the coach in place. What am I forgetting? Any ideas from the group? Thank you all in advance.

Dsouthw524 · 11-17-2004, 06:42 AM

You should be all right in your area as you say that you will be keeping the unit at 55. You could back off on the generator to about once a month. Good Luck

Captain Bud · 11-17-2004, 07:20 AM

Why are you running your furnace and trying to keep the inside temp at 55? If you are properly winterized and have removed all the foodstuffs that will freeze, you should be fine. IMHO I also noticed that you're in SE Georgia, do you get that many hard freezes over the winter. We plan on departing right after Xmas and will probably stay in Jekyl Island for a couple of days and we hope it will be at least 50 degrees in GA. BTW noticed your signature, Welcome Aboard LT

Nick and Sheila · 11-17-2004, 07:53 AM

Thanks, Captain. When did you retire and what was your last duty station? We are both originally from NJ, I was born in Hackensack and my wife was born in Flemington. We both still have family up there, but we haven't been up in a while. Sure miss the food!! We hope to use the MH during the winter and to cut down on prep time keep as much as we can in it. The freezes down here are short, normally just at night. Let us know if you need anything when you are down this way, we only live 30 miles south of JI.

Captain Bud · 11-17-2004, 11:24 AM

I was USNR for a good part of my career, some of my last duty stations were Philly, Norva, Little Creek and many DESLANT Cans. What foods are you yearning for, If they can be frozen I could bring them down and we could meet up for an UNREP. If you wish you can contact me direct on [email protected]

dirko · 11-18-2004, 07:58 AM

Hi Ho: This may be a moot point if you have already wired in your electrical outlet... But, I used 6 AWG and ran three wires with ground. I only have a 30 amp coach now, but this way I can have both a 30 and 20 amp outlets and use them at the same time. Also, if I do get a 50 amp unit, I just add a 50 amp outlet with no change of wires. The cost differential isn't very great, and the voltage drop will be less so there is less wear on the A/C--and/or--heat pump.

DriVer · 11-18-2004, 08:06 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Dirk Ostermiller:
Also, if I do get a 50 amp unit, I just add a 50 amp outlet with no change of wires. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Just a reminder, you need to have 220V in between the hot legs.

You probably are picking up opposite sides of the bus already so it shouldn't be a problem.

R Gordon · 11-23-2004, 04:24 PM

Another thing to look out for, if you keep unit connected to shore power, be sure to check battery levels. They tend to overcharge and you will run low on water. Some experiences that I have had. Sounds like you have a good plan, the heat pump should do the trick.

El Jeffe · 11-24-2004, 06:46 AM

You might want to think about a dehumidifier to keep moisture lower in the coach.

I recently read about a serious mold problem on another forum, because the MH had been shut up without air circulation.

Others with more experience, might be able to add some specifics to this thought.

tmitchell · 11-24-2004, 01:27 PM

Mine is parked next to the house plugged in full time to 30 amp. If I had realized I was going to get another MH with 50 amp. I would of had 50 amp on the side of the house. But I have not had any reason for the extra amperage so far. I leave one of the airconditioners on set at 85 to combat the humidity and heat.

Ghost · 11-24-2004, 10:46 PM

Couple of things come to mind here.

1. If you keep your coach plugged in constantly, you better check your batteries frequently. During the winter, even though you are not camping out in it, you will have to check them even more frequently. Cold dry air. Looking back, when do you usually wind up replacing your car battery? Ayup, the dead of winter. Plus, RV repair is wicked expensive by the hour, and batteries are even more expensive than that!

2. If you plan on leaving your coach plugged in at your house for any period of time, you better have a surge protector installed in your coach. Your house can sustain voltage spikes and power outages that your RV and related systems cannot. Bet you have your computer plugged into a power strip with a circuit breaker, huh? This will also save you money in the long run during the camping season - various RV parks have various voltages, and eventually, well, you will learn the hard way.

Sea story - Our coach was plugged into the 50 amp outlet at our brand new house with 200 amp service during a millisecond brown out. The brown out had no effect on the house whatsoever, but it fried the converter and both house batteries on the coach. The repair bill was right at $600.00 (search archives for full report). You can get an awesome 50 amp surge protector for less than $400.00. The 30 AMP equivalent is less than $200.00.

3. When adding anything to, or modifying the existing electrical systems in your home you better make sure that you (a) know what the heck you are doing and (b) meet code. Rule of thumb for running 30 or 50 amp wire, the voltage loss across a length of cable greater than 150 feet requires an amp. Not to mention what sort of issues might arise from that cable in relationship to the elements. Touching base with your local electrician is pretty smart. Codes change all the time. They will also tell you what gage wire is required.

4. You ought to dump your sanitary tanks, flush the system, then leave a few gallons of clear water in the system any time you will not be using it for a period greater than a few days, regardless of season. Leaving crud in the system to harden up and clog things is just not wise, regardless of the season. Think "pyramid effect". Plus, RV repair is wicked expensive by the hour, and especially annoying if all they do is flush the system for you.

5. Run your genset once a month whether it needs it or not. And when you run it, give it time to warm up, then load it up as much as you can for at least 30 minutes, sort of like when you scrammed the reactor on your submarine and had to warm up the aux diesel generator in order to snorkel before you could secure from rig for reduced electrical. If you are a skimmer puke or an Airedale and don't get that, it simply means you need to let the genset run for 5 minutes before you kick in the A/C, heat pumps, convection oven and hair dryer. Run them a bit while you watch your Oneplace to ensure you draw some serious amps. After about 15 minutes or so of serious loading, shut the loads down, then cool down the genset for 5 minutes or so, then start the reactor back up. Er, oops, I mean connect shore power

Then shut off the genset.

6. I personally would be real spooked about running the lp furnace or heat pump with a cover over the entire coach. That's just asking for all sorts of problems. I know the fellas in Forest City are cringing at the mere thought of this concept. If nothing else you are going to make a lot of mice really comfortable.

7. It is indeed very wise to keep your gas tank full in order to prevent condensation, etc. Should you opt to leave the engine and/or genset idle for greater than 90 days, first dump the correct amount of fuel stabilizer in the tank, then run the engine(s) long enough to get the stabilizer into their respective fuel systems.

8. Watch out for mice nesting in the genset compartment. What a mess.

9. Remove your wine and chocolate from the coach during periods of storage. (

) Also, shut off the fridge and leave the doors cracked, otherwise you will become all too intimate with Mister Mildew.

10. Leave one or both of your Fantastic vents cracked open. All moisture will seek the path of least resistance, whether you are exhaling moisture into the air during your sleep, or if the coach is devoid of all human life and in storage. This will also prevent condensation when you are living in the coach in the winter.

11. Have fun and check back with consistency.

12. Remember RV repair is really expensive.

DriVer · 11-25-2004, 04:10 AM

Kent, Thank you for your recommendations on winterizing on this fine Thanksgiving Day. As usual your incite on the issues is complete and very helpful.

Ghost · 11-25-2004, 11:03 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by DriVer:
Kent, Thank you for your recommendations on winterizing on this fine Thanksgiving Day. As usual your incite on the issues is complete and very helpful. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Mike. Always my pleasure to elaborate at length on most any subject at all.

Captain Bud · 11-26-2004, 03:13 AM

That report was very well written except for the part that says "skimmer pukes". .. LOL

Nick and Sheila · 11-26-2004, 03:12 PM

Capt Bud, I started out as a Bubblehead and made the long slide down to a skimmer puke, even lower, a tincan skimmer puke...LOL. Thanks Ghost for the input, we are thinking now of doing the winterizing using the blowdown method vice the full pump thru. Still will install the 30amp service to plug up the coach before we travel, using the 15amp house ckt we can only turn on one thing without popping a breaker.

Ghost · 11-27-2004, 03:38 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Captain Bud:
That report was very well written except for the part that says "skimmer pukes". .. LOL <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

DriVer · 11-27-2004, 04:43 AM

I'd rather be a skimmer puke that be in the gator Navy.

Ghost · 11-27-2004, 05:25 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by DriVer:
I'd rather be a skimmer puke that be in the gator Navy.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Targets. Just targets. Match bearings and shoot. Torpedo away!

Captain Bud · 11-28-2004, 02:31 AM

Aaaah Gentlemen, you're all forgetting one thing the great liberty that we skimmer pukes enjoy. Foreign ports, sun drenched beaches, parties, dressed in are finest uniforms.
and not this: Underway, make preparations to dive, "Dive Dive", put on Boomer suits then surface 6 months later back in the same port. Thrilling real thrilling. ROGLMAO BTW Driver, I thought you were a Grunt.