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Old 05-10-2020, 11:08 PM   #1
1995 Itasca Sunrise "Jed"
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 30
No Power to/from Onan Gen- Intellitec Solenoid issue also

I have tried many threads and cannot get an answer to work. Please read the entire long post of everything attempted and tell me what I am missing.

Thanks!

1995 Itasca Sunrise, 3rd owner....2nd owner did some crazy things and I am reverse fixing.....

This is all work I have done below:

Brand new house battery--battery fully charged
Brand new Intellitec Solenoid---not stuck
Brand New Aux/Battery 6pin switch

Here is my process and issues:

Aux/Battery will not engage the Intellitec. I have tried to follow the wiring diagram. Exactly what wires go on the right, what wires go on the left???

I think this has extra wires I cannot find in a diagram. Also, the 5 amp fuse....should that be engaged on the left or right side of the solenoid?

Can you run a line to the post with an inline fuse instead of using that 5 amp? The blade keeps sliding out and it looks like the hook goes on the post. I currently have an inline fuse (5amp) running in the place of the blade into the 5 amp. Could this inline fuse and line cause a drop off?

I have jumped the Intellitec....I can turn on house lights but no power to the Gen Switch and I can't crank Gen. The intellitec shows power on both sides and the middle when jumped with my voltmeter and my test light


When not jumped......the Intellitec does not show power on the right, but does show power on the left with voltmeter and test light.

Yes the switch at the stairs is engaged.

Onan 4000 makes clicking noise when pressing any start button and will not turn over

I have replaced on the Onan 4000.....Solenoid, Fuel filter, Air Filter,Spark Plug....oil change with premium oil....flushed Carb with seafoam

I can manually jump the Onan solenoid with my battery charger and a Snap On Tools Push button starter bypass and crank

It runs like a top.....but no power to the house.

I have checked the breaker and yes it is where it is supposed to be
Yes the shoreline is plugged into it's own outlet

Yes, the 5 amp fuse on the Onan is fine

When I connect jumper cables to the Onan, the house lights come on. The Gen Switch on the dash lights up. I can't crank using it. Oddly, I can turn the generator off from this switch

I can't crank from the gen switch at the generator. I can turn it off from the generator using that switch....just can't crank it.


The intellitec solenoid has to be jumped for me to jump the Onan generator Solenoid. Without the intellitec Solenoid jumped, the fuel pump doesn't engage. Fuel pump works great when the intellitec is jumped


The aux/battery switch on the test light will light up my test light in the opposite corners as positive. I believe that is 1 and 6. When I push the button either way, 3 and 4 on the switch engage and light up my test light.
Nothing happens....no power to the cab. I cannot find correct information on how this should be wired. The original wire holder is still in place and I believe these are factory wires leading to it.

When the intellitec is jumped, the 40 amp button fuse in the dash will show positive on both post. When it is not jumped, neither show positive. I am not sure what this fuse does.

All fuses in the dash are working. All fuses in the back and circuit breakers are working.

Yes I touched them. Yes I flipped them all. Yes they are all firm. Yes I have tested them. All are fine. All work fine on shoreline

No, there is not an automatic transfer switch on a 1995---it plugs into itself

Yes--from shoreline everything works perfect. No issues on shoreline.

I want to be able to run my generator when I am driving so I can run my rooftop AC. My dash AC runs nicely, but it is not cool enough for passengers in the back and Alabama gets really hot!

Last season I hooked a rocker toggle up to the intellitec and just used it as a breaker for the lights. We could not power the generator and therefore did not have AC, but we did have lights when we needed them at stops during when it was dark (gas station, Walmart, etc) when we needed to go back to the back for something.

Can someone help me get the generator back and the aux/battery Intellitec working.

I have the diagram here, but like I said...there are a few extra wires. Yes, the unit did have an alarm at one time. Could that be a wire?


My goals are to:

1. Be able to power my house lights from the cab using the aux/battery switch (or converting to a on off toggle style rocker)

2. Crank my generator from inside the house and turn it off

3. Run my roof AC while driving

If this intellitec will not work.....can I bypass it with some sort of disconnect or a continuous solenoid like the one below it? I do have blade style cut offs added on my battery to make sure nothing draws when it is stored,

How can I solve the generator issue?


Any help appreciated!!!!

JedtheCamper
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Old 05-11-2020, 07:40 AM   #2
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Wow, Jed! I’m not sure any of us can help on this issue it seems so specific to your RV. Plus not too many of us are well versed on 25-year old motorhomes, let alone ones modified by a previous owner.

From all you’ve tried, it sounds like you’d be better off reverting the wiring to stock as much as possible. Removing any new wiring. Maybe start at the generator and work back towards the battery compartment. Certainly start over at the Intellitec solenoid and consider that it’s either not wired correctly, not the correct part or not operating properly.

If there is a knowledgeable independent RV tech in the Birmingham area, maybe consult with him on the project.

Sorry I can’t be more help. Have you tried posting a shorter more condensed version of this at irv2.com? There are a grater number of folks over there and you might find someone with more specific knowledge on this topic there.
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Old 05-17-2020, 11:19 AM   #3
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My guess is you may have a soleniod issue...there may be a separate solenoid for the generator. I'm always amazed at the crazy wiring in Motorhomes. Mine took a lot of work to sort out the house Battery and the generator.
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Old 05-17-2020, 04:20 PM   #4
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Jed

Welcome to iRV2
If you don't come back and reply to the thread, nobody can help you,
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:35 PM   #5
1995 Itasca Sunrise "Jed"
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Hoover, AL
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Thank you for the help! Covid took over some priorities, but I am back to working on the Onan. We took successful trips last summer without usings the Onan, but I am back on the case this season!

I was able to get the Intellitec Solenoid wired correctly and working. That is no longer an issue. I can jump the generator, but it does not return power back to the cab.

Here's my thoughts now that I had time to flip through this during the off season. I am going to look at two main culprits:

There is an inline fuse according to the Onan book that is somewhere from the battery to the generator. I am going to look for it and test it.

I am going to check the main ground to the generator, take it off, clean it, use a wire brush, and see if that makes a difference.

One last thing, I am going to check all pins and see if that makes a difference.

I am sorry for the absence. This year was all over the place with all the regulations, rules, etc....and I could not put my focus on my camper the way I wish I could!

Thanks for the help!
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Old 05-10-2021, 07:10 AM   #6
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Something not asked previously... what about your auto transfer switch? Perhaps the Gen side contacter is faulty? Has that been checked/ruled out?
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Old 05-10-2021, 08:44 AM   #7
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There is a lot of good info on your model of RV and it can be figured but the first problem is to decide what it is you are wanting to fix first! Are you wanting to get the generator to start from some location as a first?
That would seem to be what I would do as getting it started would seem to be step one before getting the power it produces to the rest of the RV.

There seems to be confusion about the purpose of the aux/boost switch, so I suggest forgetting about it for now as it is only intended to connect the tow battery strings together temporarily as a "boost" to start the RV engine, not anything to do with the generator. Pushing it can do things to confuse us but it should not involve starting the genset.

Sometimes we need to ignore lots of stuff and just look at what we need to fix the problem we are working on at the time as it cuts the confusion.

So I have made this snip of the drawing and how the power from the coach batteries gets to the generator starter solenoid. I like to start with the things we know and work along a route to get to the other end.

I suggest starting at the coach batteries and making sure they are right as an easy spot to find and check.
Once you know power and connections are good leaving the batteries, move to the "mode solenoid". That will be the silver metal one in most cases but you can find it by the big finger size red battery cables as there should be two on one of the big side lugs! Don't sweat what that solenoid does right now as the power only goes there to meet the other cable going to the disconnect relay which is normally right along side the solenoid. Often a more black plastic gizmo!

I would suggest tanking all three cables off the right side (at least on the drawing!) and check that the power is getting through this relay from the left side to lug on the right. That will tell you that the disconnect switch is right and the relay is actually working to pass the power through. If not, that is a place to stop and find why???

But assuming the power does get through okay, reconnect the three wires and move to the generator. At the generator, there should be a switch for starting it, so see if it cranks, only clicks or what it does.

It should start and run, but if it only clicks, you need to check for good clean connections along the path from the disconnect switch. There may be big fuses which are hard to spot if you are not used to them but we can look for those IF YOU NEED to but they are all over and hard to find at times. But if it cranks good, don't bother!!

See if that gets it started and then we can chase other problems if you have them. Start it first and then worry about where the power goes from it to the RV?

Click this picture to get a better view.
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Old 05-10-2021, 01:08 PM   #8
1995 Itasca Sunrise "Jed"
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
Something not asked previously... what about your auto transfer switch? Perhaps the Gen side contacter is faulty? Has that been checked/ruled out?
Thanks for the help! In the older models, they do not have a transfer switch. It is a manual system that plugs into itself. I did check those and was not having correct voltage....once again leading to a possible grounding issue. I am still working on it!
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Old 05-10-2021, 01:16 PM   #9
1995 Itasca Sunrise "Jed"
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
There is a lot of good info on your model of RV and it can be figured but the first problem is to decide what it is you are wanting to fix first! Are you wanting to get the generator to start from some location as a first?
That would seem to be what I would do as getting it started would seem to be step one before getting the power it produces to the rest of the RV.

There seems to be confusion about the purpose of the aux/boost switch, so I suggest forgetting about it for now as it is only intended to connect the tow battery strings together temporarily as a "boost" to start the RV engine, not anything to do with the generator. Pushing it can do things to confuse us but it should not involve starting the genset.

Sometimes we need to ignore lots of stuff and just look at what we need to fix the problem we are working on at the time as it cuts the confusion.

So I have made this snip of the drawing and how the power from the coach batteries gets to the generator starter solenoid. I like to start with the things we know and work along a route to get to the other end.

I suggest starting at the coach batteries and making sure they are right as an easy spot to find and check.
Once you know power and connections are good leaving the batteries, move to the "mode solenoid". That will be the silver metal one in most cases but you can find it by the big finger size red battery cables as there should be two on one of the big side lugs! Don't sweat what that solenoid does right now as the power only goes there to meet the other cable going to the disconnect relay which is normally right along side the solenoid. Often a more black plastic gizmo!

I would suggest tanking all three cables off the right side (at least on the drawing!) and check that the power is getting through this relay from the left side to lug on the right. That will tell you that the disconnect switch is right and the relay is actually working to pass the power through. If not, that is a place to stop and find why???

But assuming the power does get through okay, reconnect the three wires and move to the generator. At the generator, there should be a switch for starting it, so see if it cranks, only clicks or what it does.

It should start and run, but if it only clicks, you need to check for good clean connections along the path from the disconnect switch. There may be big fuses which are hard to spot if you are not used to them but we can look for those IF YOU NEED to but they are all over and hard to find at times. But if it cranks good, don't bother!!

See if that gets it started and then we can chase other problems if you have them. Start it first and then worry about where the power goes from it to the RV?

Click this picture to get a better view.
Thanks for the post!

Once I was able to get back to work on the RV last fall, I was able to get that Intellitec issue solved using the method you talked about here.

Update on the Intellitec:
1. I was sent a defective Intellitec. It would not bench test.
2. I replaced it with another new Intellitec, bench tested it first.
3. I hooked up and was able to get power using the correct rocker switch
4. I disconnected the rocker switch that I had installed that was basically a jumper on the intellitec that I had when the intellitec was not working.

Since doing this, I have not gone back to work on the generator. I am going to take a wire brush to the main ground on the frame because my gut tells me there is an issue there.

So question....if the generator cranks, what role does the rocker switch play with the Intellitec? Will it "automatic" like when I plug into shore power? When I plug into shore power, the rocker switch obviously does nothing.

When the generator cranks and works properly, will I need to hit the rocker switch on the dash or will it engage automatically? How do I know the rocker switch is running the electronics from the generator and not the battery? How do I know if the generator is charging the battery?

Will the Air Conditioner be the "tell-tell" of this and if turns on does that mean everything is working?

Thanks for helping! I am a third season, first time RV owner. I have not had the generator for the previous two seasons and that is OK. We do not boondock and all the campsites here in the southeast we visit have full connections.

My main concern with the generator has always been to run the rooftop AC while driving. I repaired the dash AC, put a new compressor, charged with R134, and it is cold.....but not enough airflow to cool the entire RV when driving in Alabama July Heat.

We put a slide curtain between the kitchen and the seats to help, but the cab is warm....not hot....but not cool....but the dash AC is pumping Cold Air.

I would like to run the rooftop AC while driving and have the Onan engaged.

Thanks for all the help!!!!!

JedtheCamper
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Old 05-10-2021, 02:57 PM   #10
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Sounds like a good reason for running the gen. while driving and lots do it.
new stuff often takes some time to get the details down, so maybe a "walk-through" of some of them will help.
Let me start with the generator and go up from there. There may be some confusion about the genset and Intelitech so I need to make sure we are both thinking/saying the same.
By Intelitech, do you mean the thing called mode solenoid (silver thing?) that has wires to the dash and a switch often labeled AUX or BOOST?
Or are you speaking of the "battery disconnect relay" , so top item or bottom in the drawing?
Generally neither of these are too involved in the generator, except for when the battery cutoff switch is "OFF" the relay should be open and it is possible you don't get power to start the generator. I've not traced all that out but if you are getting power to things like the inside lights, that power comes from the coach batteries and does come through this relay. So if the inside lights, vent fans and water pump work, the relay is passing the power though okay.

Brief points on the 110vac from either plugged in or generator running? You likely have a box in a compartment where you have the power cord. When the gen is running that plug is where you plug the cord in to get power to the RV instead of from a pole. So that part is manual rather than newer which some big ones have an auto transfer, but I kind of like doing it manual as I KNOW when I plug it in, it got there! Auto is okay but it can be a pain when it fails.

So when plugged into pole or generator output box, that 110AC power goes to a converter, which uses it to make 12VDC which goes to the coach batteries which are feeding all the lights, fans, etc.
When plugged in you are still using 12VDC for powering those things technically but it is being made/charged at the same time by the converter using the power from the cord! But when you unplug, the lights, etc keep working from the batteries but do begin to run down.

This is where the mode solenoid comes in as we want to charge the coach batteries back up as much as we can while driving, so you have a big old alternator on the RV engine and it puts out far more power than needed for car lights, horn, etc that the normal truck/car has. There is a wire from the ignition that makes the mode solenoid operate and tie the left side big lug through to the right side big lug.

See on the drawing there is a wire labeled LR (14 gauge purple wire) and it comes off the ignition to make the solenoid operate automatic when the engine runs and that connects the coach batteries to the start battery. They don't show it on this drawing but it is out there on the right side of the this drawing where the "1" in the triangle is!

So when engine is running the two coach batteries are connected to the start battery and they all get charging from the alternator.

But then there is a second use for the mode solenoid and there is a momentary switch on the dash, sometimes labeled boost, and when we find the start battery may be too weak to start the engine, we can push the boost switch to give it a "boost/jump start" by connecting the two battery groups together at this solenoid!! But when you let loose of the switch it flips back up and the connection is not made from the switch but should be made because the engine is running!

Tricky and can be totally confusing but really just connects the batteries together at some times when we want it. Idea is that it charges both when we have power or need more power but not connected when we are camped so that both coach and start battery wind up dead and we are stranded.

So to the tougher parts of your question! The air cond. will only run on 110VAC, so only if you are plugged in or getting it from the generator. But the controls to the air, like the thermostat need the 12VDC from the coach batteries. So bad coach batteries can keep the air from coming on, even if you have the 110VAC there.

So I suggest this.
First get the switch that controls the battery disconnect relay switched to make the inside lights come on. easy way to tell the disconnect is right is to see the lights come on!
Then to give the best chance at cranking and starting the generator, start the RV engine. This ties both sets of batteries and the engine alternator all together and really gives you a better chance at starting the generator, just like jump starting a car.

How to tell the gen is providing the power? Lead/ acid(normal) Batteries that are not being charged and have rested /settled for a couple hours will never be higher than about 12.8volts, so if you measure the voltage and see12.8 or less and then start the generator and turn the RV engine off again, check the voltage again and if it shows like 13 volts or more, it is being charged from the converter getting power from the gen.

The battery is just storage where we put power until we need it and when we run the lights, things are all connected together, so we can't say the power is from the battery or from the converter. Lights are taking power out of storage and the converter is putting it n at the same time, so where is it coming from? Kind of like drinking out of a bucket with a hose filling the bucket? You can't say if you are drinking water out of the bucket or out of the hose!

WAY too much answer and I'll give you time to think that batch through!
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Old 05-10-2021, 10:04 PM   #11
1995 Itasca Sunrise "Jed"
 
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Location: Hoover, AL
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Thanks every one for the help!

Here's today's update May 10.

Solenoid (Intellitec) is connected and works properly. The lights, pump, etc all receive power.

The "Mom" momentary boost is the second rocker. The third rocker is the disconnect where you can hear they "clunk" engaging the Intellitec to turn the power off and on.

Both batteries are new and are charged. They are grounded properly.

The Onan frame ground- I cleaned it today at the contacts with a wire brush.

The Onan engaged the fuel pump when I switched it on, but did not turn over. I just hear clicks.

If I jump the Onan brand (ford style frame ground) Solenoid on the generator, it will crank and run like a top. However, it will not send power back to the cab. It has a manual plug that plugs into itself.

All electric on shore power works perfect.

Any thoughts or help before I drop $$$$ at Onan is appreciated.

I am looking for where extra fuses could be possibly inline.

Is this an On an issue? Is this a wiring issue to the Onan?

Is this a board issue? What kind of board does a 1995 have?

onan 4kyfa26100k

Thanks!!!!
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Old 05-10-2021, 11:18 PM   #12
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Midnight here so short answer but have you found the breaker hidden on the gen itself?
May be down and behine switch for starting gen. Mine has a fuzzy brush type dust cover/seal kind of hiding the breaker. It kills all output from gen to box for plugging cord.
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Old 05-10-2021, 11:24 PM   #13
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If all works when plugged to shore but not logged to gen no fuse or breaker other than. On gen to be bad. Just not getting from gen to box for plug. Trouble is close by it.
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Old 05-11-2021, 06:42 AM   #14
1995 Itasca Sunrise "Jed"
 
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Location: Hoover, AL
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Isn't this just a weird case? Yes the breaker is also in the right position.

The not cranking....everything I am researching and reading is leading to some sort of drop in voltage. The next day that I get to work on this, I am going to maybe try and look at the battery connections running underneath the camper. I know it says I am getting the correct voltage at the solenoid, but I want to check that wire for any kind of knicks or such.

I am also considering taking out the Onan solenoid, roughing up the metal where it attaches and see if it grounds out to the frame better. The ford style Onan solenoid is designed to ground out to the frame and maybe that is where the connection drop is.

There has to be a drop in voltage somewhere to lead to the not cranking issue.

What I do not know is if the not cranking issue is related to the no power back to the cab issue. I am not sure if this is two separate problems or if it is one related problem

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Old 05-11-2021, 09:05 AM   #15
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Attachment 178801Getting closer! Sounds like two different problems, so I drew this of how the power to start the generator runs and then how the power FROM the generator runs. Kinda.sorta related as they both go to and from the battery but use different cables in different directions.

If your cables still have the tape wrapped on them just by the ends, this code will help to sort which to follow, maybe?

But the thing is that there is often a big fuse, pretty close to the battery but it may not look like a fuse if not used to them as it looks more like a cable going to a bolt and then another cable coming off a second bolt. But between those things that look like bolts (isolated studs, really!) is a big fuse like 60-100 amp or more. Since you can get the gen to turn over by jumping the solenoid, the fuse is not totally open because you are getting power, just maybe not enough power because the connections on the fuse are corroded/dirty? One way to "maybe" get around having to jump the solenoid to start the gen is to have the engine running before trying to start it as that may give just enough more power through a dirty connection to work???
Mine looks like a really bad place to put a fuse because it is on the frame right inside and behind the tight front wheel where water is certain to splash every rain!

But once the gen is running, there should be power from the gen going back to the batteries to charge them and run things inside like lights. So that box where you plug the cord in should always be hot and have power when the gen is running and that breaker on the gen itself is good. The idea is that when you plug the cord into shore power, it is working things inside okay, so you should be able to plug that same cord into the box from the generator and things inside work just the same as when plugged to shore power!
So if it works plugged to shore power but not when plugged to a running gen, the problem is right there. Either the gen is not working right which they seems to be almost bulletproof or the breaker or wire right there is not good.

Getting power from battery to gen to start can be along the long path somewhere and I would guess at a corroded fuse connection as that type fuse is bolted in, so I would check them carefully. But do use care doing that as it is straight off the battery and keeps lots of sparks and melts things if you touch a wrench to it and the frame, etc.
Try not to blow your fingers up!!!
But the gen output problem when running has to be real close there.

But then
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Old 05-11-2021, 06:19 PM   #16
1995 Itasca Sunrise "Jed"
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 30
I think I know where the lug fuse is. In my battery tray behind where the two batteries sit, there are two posts that red wires run to. Is this some sort of fuse? I will check this out tomorrow and send a pic to you on this. I will clean these off and see the connection. What kind of fuse will this be? I was thinking there would be some sort of inline glass fuse or something that I could not see.

For the Intellitec Solenoid. This is exactly how mine is hooked up now. What's weird is that my Intelletic Solenoid is on top and the silver one is on bottom with this Winnebago. The original Intellitec new solenoid I had ordered was just a dud. It did not pass a bench test. The new one they sent me to replace it went right in and worked. So am I guessing that these ground against the metal wall?

I will go and clean the contacts to the Intellitec Solenoid and also the wire loops that go to them.

They have a weird top with 5 amp fuses. The wires kept sliding out of the five amp fuses. I wired it direct with an inline fuse to the lug. Would this matter? The inline is the same amp. My thought though....could the wire be too small of a guage and affect the flow?

At the generator level, I get 12. 6 amps on the positive of the battery terminal on the Onan Solenoid. I need to test it when I crank to see if I have a drop in voltage.

Right now, the RV is at the shop getting a new Hydroboost and master Cylinder. I was not comfortable replacing those and it had a slow leak. I will be able to get back to the generator issue tomorrow afternoon.

Here's my thought process:
1. Check the Intellitec Solenoid connections again and make sure that inline fuse does not hurt battery flow.

2. Check the bolt fuse next to the battery

3. Check the voltage on the Onan Solenoid when cranking to see if I have a voltage drop

4. Check the the Onan Solenoid to see if it is properly grounding to the frame.

5. Check the two front connections on the Onan Solenoid to make sure it is getting proper voltage and proper ground.


Thanks!

TJ Zito, Jr
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Old 05-11-2021, 07:04 PM   #17
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Sounds like a plan, so some more info on what each wire does. There is a code for the markings on the wires if you can read them as they are printed along the wire side.
This is the magic decoder list:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

Looking at the drawing above, there are three small "control" wires to the relay, LG, LH, and LJ. Looking at the list, we see where those wires connect and a hint at what they each do.
This is a different relay than most because it we want it to move when we push the button but if we connect the coach power, we don't want it setting there drawing power all the time. So instead of full time, we have a momentary push button switch which sends power down to the relay, makes it move but then when we let off on the switch, there is a magnet inside the relay which keeps it in that position. Called a latching relay! So we push the button one way, it moves and latches open but when we push the button the other way it moves and latches closed.
That makes me think the power comes down to the relay on LG to engage and goes to ground on LJ, or it comes down on LH to disengage and goes to ground on LJ. So if you hold a hand on the relay while somebody pushes the button, you may feel/hear it move and the inside lights and stuff go on or off.
Most of the time we want to leave it on unless we want to cut off most of the power while the RV is stored.

The fuse on the small wires should not be any problem as it just takes a little bit to move the relay. This is sometimes called a "slave relay" because the little weak wires makes the big wires do all the work!!

On the big fuse on the bolt looking things, there are several and the one for the generator cable may not be right in the box with the battery but like mine might be further out. That's where having the color code would be nice if the colored tape is still on the cables. If you find one with green tape, that is the one to follow as it goes to the gen. Make sure it is clean but I've never found one of those big fuses blown as they are really big ones to carry the high current it takes to crank and engine. No get the wrenches on the lugs and ground!!
I might want to work on getting the gen to start and run first, second check there is power coming from the gen to the plug in on the box and then when the cord is plugged into the box, the microwave, air cond. and outlets will be working on the generator.

You can test for the generator output on the plug in the box by putting one probe in the round hole and probing in the other two holes to find one of them hot with 110 VAC.
Carefull!
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Old 05-12-2021, 09:33 AM   #18
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
Posts: 4,791
Probing/looking around the drawings, I found a point that may help.
This drawing:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...995/114594.pdf

This seems to show two big things to know. One is that it "looks" like the ground cable from the gen cuts straight across to the ground bus bar at the batteries but the positive cable seems to go all the way to the front and around the whole thing to get there!
AND it does not show any of the fuses that I had expected.

So don't beat your brains out looking for something that is NOT shown on the drawings!! I was going to try to spot them but now it looks like I made them all up. maybe??? Sorry if that is true!
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Old 05-13-2021, 03:17 PM   #19
1995 Itasca Sunrise "Jed"
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 30
Thanks for all the great info-

So here's some other questions here:

1. The remote switch at the stove does not work and the hour meter that is there does not work. It is located on the stove hood.

2. The remote switch at the front lights up green, but does not do anything when cranking.

3. The start switch on the generator allowed it to make the clicking noise.

Would it help to disable the remote switches right now while I work on it?

Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2021, 03:24 PM   #20
1995 Itasca Sunrise "Jed"
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Hoover, AL
Posts: 30
So there is an additional ground running from the battery? I am trying to understand this.

1. There was a ground running from the generator to the frame directly underneath the generator. I cleaned and scuffed those contacts.

2. I am going to bench test that solenoid one more time after watching a video of how solenoids work. It is possible my issue lies in the two spade contacts. I need to also check the spade contacts to see if they are losing voltage.

3. What is the order of the spade contact? Could they be reversed? What would happen if they were reversed? What should be on the spade closest to me and then the spade closest to the starter?

4. I will be in the driveway to tomorrow working on this and was trying to load myself with as much info as possible

Thanks for all your help!!!!!

I also have a new master cylinder and Powerboost to put on. Luckily, that is not as complicated for me as wiring!
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