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Old 07-06-2020, 09:40 PM   #1
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No power at dashboard won't start

We just got a 2006 adventurer and are having some electrical issues. First of as of yesterday it won't start. No dash lights, no radio, and if course won't start. 12.8 volts at battery, starter, and fuse box under hood. Only thing in the cab that works are the electric seats? We are also having trouble with shift power. Had 120 volt 30 amp per connected and after awhile there lights began to do and AC plus everything else shutoff. Didn't even charge the coach batteries. I've checked every fuse I can find, under the hood, at the drivers kick panel. And yes the battery disconnect is on for both engineer and coach batteries. Please Help! Mike
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Old 07-07-2020, 06:25 AM   #2
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This is a quite common problem when folks have stored the RV without making arrangements for charging the battery. Is this your case? Likely the start battery is not charged or good.
If a rundown battery set, it may take a good time like six hours to actually charge even though voltage may show 12 volts. If the battery is fully charged, suggest check the cables at both ends for corrosion or loose.
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Old 07-07-2020, 08:21 PM   #3
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So I charged the house batteries and was able to start the generator. Now I get a low DC control voltage warning on the fridge and the house batteries aren't charging. I'm pretty sure my converter has the issue. First I have to find where it is. I still have no power to the dash and it won't turnover or anything, not sure if this could be because of the converter?
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Old 07-08-2020, 03:17 AM   #4
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Did you turn the battery "store" switch on or is it in the off position? I do not believe (could be wrong) but the system that charges the house batteries does not charge the engine batteries. To charge engine batteries you have to have a separate charger.
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Old 07-08-2020, 06:53 AM   #5
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Sure sounds like a dead chassis battery, and what were dead house batteries. Many RVs don’t charge the house battery when plugged into shore power.

Have you looked at your two battery banks? Are the connections good and tight? Do the cells need water?

It could be a converter, but it’s not the first place to check.

Charging the batteries with an external charger could take a very long time, like 24 to 36 hours depending on their condition. And it’s always possible that even after that period of time that they are so damaged that they can’t hold the charge for any period of time.

If the coach is new to you, then it’s possible that those batteries have been abused previously and are ready for replacement.
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Old 07-08-2020, 07:17 AM   #6
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If it was a car that would not turn over, what would be the first thing to check?
Sometimes we try to make things too difficult. Charging the coach battery string does not charge the start battery. When facing things I don't fully understand, I often start with fixing the things I am more used to doing. So I would try to start the car since it is just a car in a bigger box. The other systems are different systems which use parts of the car to do their thing.
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Old 07-08-2020, 07:59 AM   #7
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So the converter outlet was bad so that cause the DC voltage to drop on generator or shore. Temporarily plugged it into a different outlet and that works. I did find out the 30a **** power was wired for 120/240, I think this is what fried the outlet, that's been corrected. But still no 12vdc to the under dash fuse panel. Most of the under hood fuses have power (the larger ones) but most of the the smaller ones don't. Some so. Still nothing when I put the key in the ignition.
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Old 07-08-2020, 11:00 AM   #8
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The engine doesn't start so you've changed the 110 connections? This should get interesting!
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Old 07-09-2020, 07:47 AM   #9
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Ok got things figured out. No DC was because the outlet to the converter was bad. No dash power was due to a bad starter solenoid connection post corroded. Replaced starter/solenoid and plugged converter into different plug until I have time to replace.
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Old 07-12-2020, 04:15 PM   #10
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Well done

I got to say I thought you where barking up the wrong tree but you obviously have know how. Well done.
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Old 07-12-2020, 06:12 PM   #11
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Ok got things figured out. No DC was because the outlet to the converter was bad. No dash power was due to a bad starter solenoid connection post corroded. Replaced starter/solenoid and plugged converter into different plug until I have time to replace.
Plugging into a 30A socket wired for a 240 dryer is a good way to FRY your converter and even damage other electrical components. Good luck with this one. Many a electrician has had to pay for the fixing of a RV for forgetting that they are wiring 120 and not 240 on that 30A outlet. Bummer.
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Old 07-12-2020, 10:37 PM   #12
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Can you explain that?

A 30 amp dryer has two legs of 120 volts
Each supplying 30 amps. As a three wire no neutral therefore no lighting but one ground.

How can this be screwed up?
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:50 AM   #13
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I had an '07 Adventurer and from the factory, and chassis battery was not charged from the genny or shore power. Of course if the chassis battery is dead, dead, the steps won't operate either. We added a unit that would charge the chassis battery from the house batteries. Unfortunately I don't remember the brand, but it had safeties in it that kept the batteries separated and would stop when the house batteries got below a certain voltage. It eliminated that problem. Our problem usually occurred on long stays at a campground and long term storage. If I remember correctly, that unit didn't not have an engine battery disconnect switch.
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Old 07-13-2020, 08:54 AM   #14
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Ahhhh. Just looked it up. After writing I was thinking there is a neutral so it’s a single 120vac line a neutral and a ground. Giving you 120vac at 30a

A dryer is 2 120vac lines and a ground or if a four plug there is a neutral for lights. Giving you 240vac at 30a
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Old 07-13-2020, 09:53 AM   #15
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Ahhhh. Just looked it up. After writing I was thinking there is a neutral so it’s a single 120vac line a neutral and a ground. Giving you 120vac at 30a

A dryer is 2 120vac lines and a ground or if a four plug there is a neutral for lights. Giving you 240vac at 30a
When they mentioned 120/240 was a good time for me to drop out of the conversation as it sounds like somebody set to hurt themself!
Seemed to be a case of asking random questions on unrelated problems but not reading answers.
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Old 07-13-2020, 10:59 AM   #16
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A 30 amp dryer has two legs of 120 volts
Each supplying 30 amps. As a three wire no neutral therefore no lighting but one ground.

How can this be screwed up?
A RV 30A outlet is 120VAC. Facing the outlet, the hot is on the left. It is not good to reverse polarity. Neutral should never be hot. Take a look at this article. It does a great job telling the story about RV power options:https://stickerdeals.net/wiring-diag...iring-diagram/
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Old 07-13-2020, 03:41 PM   #17
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Did you turn the battery "store" switch on or is it in the off position? I do not believe (could be wrong) but the system that charges the house batteries does not charge the engine batteries. To charge engine batteries you have to have a separate charger.
We all have different rigs, but ours does charge the engine battery as well, so long as I turn the ignition key to the FIRST position, and I’m on shoreline power. Not sure if the generator would do the same as shoreline? Haven’t tried that yet...
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Old 08-03-2020, 04:03 PM   #18
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'09 Aspect 28B

I'm not sure if my 2009 Aspect has a Trik-L-Start because my starter battery won't charge when I plug in 120 volts.Does anyone know how we can check if there is one installed and where it would be?
Thanks

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Old 08-03-2020, 06:34 PM   #19
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Did you turn the battery "store" switch on or is it in the off position? I do not believe (could be wrong) but the system that charges the house batteries does not charge the engine batteries. To charge engine batteries you have to have a separate charger.
Well, that’s true and not true, depending on one’s particular RV.

But it takes some knowing how things work. In ours, when plugged into shoreline power, the converter/charger will charge only the coach batteries. But if I turn the ignition key to the FIRST position (all dash light remain off), it will also charge the starter battery.
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