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Old 05-07-2022, 04:00 AM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2018
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No 12V to coach 2020 View 24D

2020 Winn View 24D
Getting a code “b01”on Xantrex panel.
Batteries read 12.67% with multimeter.
Genset also dead.
Shore power does work thru coach wall receptacles.
Winnabago suggests bad house battery rocker switch( one just inside coach door) or one of button looking breakers(?) beneath passenger front seat.

Anything else a layman can check easily?
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Old 05-07-2022, 07:52 AM   #2
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Are you sure that error code isn’t E01? Looking up Xantrex error codes they all seem to start with “E”, but I don’t know what specific model of inverter you have. E01 is low battery voltage.

99% of the time this is caused by dead or near dead batteries. So, start with the easy answer first.

If you’re taking your battery voltage reading while plugged into shore power then the voltage you are likely seeing is the charging voltage being applied.

Physically Disconnect your house battery by removing the main negative to chassis ground. Let them sit overnight and check their voltage with a multimeter. Now what voltage do you get?
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Old 05-07-2022, 10:28 AM   #3
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Other ideas that you may want to try?
The genset often will not start if the coach batteries are weak, but if things are working normal, one can get hat coach battery power up by starting the RV engine!

Takes some time to get it clear but when we are running the RV engine, there are gizmos to connect the power from the engine alternator through to BOTH the start and coach battery to get both recharged -if we drive long enough! Like six hours?

But for your case, if you rev the engine kind of high it puts out about 14 volts and that should show up on both sets of batteries. If somebody revs the engine while you are looking at the batteries, you can often see the voltage go up and down with the engine speed! If they are connected together as they should be at that time, after a few minutes you will likely see the same voltage reading and up and down on each of the batteries. Seeing this charge voltage coming in doesn't mean the battery is charged! Only that the voltage is getting there to charge them----given time!
Whether that voltage stays good after you stop charging is often the fault as that surface charge can settle and not be nearly good enough if the batteries are not good.

I suspect that you can start the RV engine and wait a bit for things to get "some" charge and then when it is all a bit more ready, you can crank the generator and it may start as it does need coach battery to do that.
Part of the problem is that many things do need battery power to operate. One of those things is the relay connected to the battery disconnect switch!
You may be pushing the disconnect switch the right way to close but if there is no power to the relay it operates, that relay doesn't move! So you can be pushing the switch right to reconnect the battery but the relay is still sleeping!

The interior lights and vent fans are all working off the 12VDC coach , so if they are not working, I think the relay is not connecting the battery, even thought you may be pushing the disconnect to tell it do it that!
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Old 05-07-2022, 10:40 AM   #4
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Good suggestion thanks.
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Old 05-07-2022, 10:47 AM   #5
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Thanks for your input. But if there is a bad switch/relay or fuse doing battery thing will not help other than start the genset. All lights for genset and controller are dark.
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Old 05-07-2022, 11:06 AM   #6
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Does this make any sense? If I remove the switch from wall to access wires can I bypass switch by connecting wires together?
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Old 05-07-2022, 12:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbettyl View Post
Does this make any sense? If I remove the switch from wall to access wires can I bypass switch by connecting wires together?
Is it a momentary switch? Mine is a momentary 3 way, you press it one way or the other and it closes or open the relay for on or off then it returns to the center position. This is a tad more complicated than just connecting 2 wires together, there will be 3 and you will need to know which is which and only touch them together momentarily to engage/disengage the relay. My switch also has a green light when the batteries are "ON", does yours have that? It's hard to see in daylight.
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Old 05-07-2022, 02:11 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Bobbettyl View Post
Does this make any sense? If I remove the switch from wall to access wires can I bypass switch by connecting wires together?
Yes, possibly but it also will take a bit of gritand boldness but since you have the idea, I can try to share some info on the wiring and the switch but the info for the newer models after 2010 is not built like the older. Older we get wire by wire schematic drawings which we can trace, while new we get more a cable path and then wires which should be stamped/labeled for use of a chart to "decode" the ID!

List is here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

Drawing possibly here?
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File.../000164166.pdf

Sheet three possibly correct switch?
Click this snip to get a better view or go direct todrawing.
Click image for larger version

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I say possibly before checking if this appears to be the correct location foryour specific battery disconnect switch. Drawings are easy to misread, so need to verify I'm correct before going too far??? Looks like it is on the cabinet end as you enter door?

What I see is that the circuits for the battery disconnect switch are LH, LG, and LJ and those seem to match this portion of the drawing!
The normal disconnect switch is controlling a "latching relay" on many models and this wire code seems to match that as LG is for engage and LH for disengage, LJ battery to the switch! NE and JF seem to be involved with lighting, so possibly not involved ?
This latching type relay uses power only while we push the button and when we rock the momentary switch one way or the other, a burst of power is sent to the relay which moves it to engage or disengage and then as we release the switch, the relay has a magnet type function which holds it in the last position while we stop using power to hold it there.

With a bit of knowledge (dangerous?) and a bit of boldness one might pull the switch, find the wire labels and try tapping a connection between the power and engage or disengage wires?

Sorry but that seems to be my "best guess" with info on hand! See if it makes sense in person?? Good luck.
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