Quote:
Originally Posted by Kg4izw
I have been reading other postings on older Atwood water heaters (mine is a 2004) and i read that older Atwood units had the propane Eco and tstat on the front and electric Eco and tstat on the back.
This would explain a lot though.
There has to be a way to find out without removing the entire unit.
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Simple......just access backside and LOOK
But all you will see is a protective cover over electric element and relay
2003 and prior version had separate t-stat & ECo for electric (on backside) and propane (on frontside)
This is a GC10A-3E.....simple connections on circuit board as it only controls propane
You have a 2004 version. GC10A-4E
Electric and propane use SAME front mounted t-stat and ECO, DC controls and combined circuit board
This is what your Atwood 10 gal looks like.....dual connectors on circuit board...bundle of wires (white, orange, yellow, blue, brown, green, red)
As I mentioned in earlier post......
The RED wire from circuit board gets a MILIVOLT signal to ECO, Thru ECO to gas valve solenoid and to ground when using Electric heating.
This is so the ECO is a functioning part of the circuit.....safety feature
so that ECO can shut down heating should the t-stat NOT control as designed.
T-stat should OPEN at 140*F and CLOSE at 110*F to control heating cycle
ECO OPENS at 180*F to STOP heating cycle before temp goes to high
(T&P Relief Valve is final backup---Opens at 210*F/150 psi)
Propane using FULL 12V DC Voltage while heating.
12V DC from ON/OFF (orange) to circuit board, on BROWN wires (thermal fuse, t-stat) RED wire to ECO, to gas valve solenoid (Opening gas valve)
Electric only uses FULL 12V DC from ON/Off (white) to circuit board, on BROWN (thermal fuse & t-stat) and on the YELLOW wire to relay.
(IF 'relay' was issue you would not get FAULT Light....all that would happen is NO electric heating)
Then it is MILIVOLT signal to ECO/gas valve----just enough to function but not enough to open gas valve
IF that MILIVOLT signal is NOT coming from circuit board, NOT going to/thru ECO then FAULT
Even IF ECO is NOT opening (t-stat not opening) you will get FAULT Light if MILIVOLT signal is not leaving circuit board.
Normally the issue would be t-stat not opening and water getting TOO hot
Doesn't sound like that is the issue
So that points back to connections on circuit board OR electric circuit on board that triggers the Milivolt signal to RED wire
Measure water heater temp at end of heating cycle (propane AND electric)
and see IF different temps are happening OR if temp is going to high???
Best replacement board is a Dinosaur Electronics .....better quality and good pricing
Your Atwood board 93851 would be replaced with a Dino UIB 64 board
UIB 64 page
E-bay has it for $102.75....new board and protective cover
Dinosaur Electronics UIB 64 PC Board for the Atwood Water heater | eBay