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Old 07-03-2020, 11:02 AM   #1
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New Hike, battery not working

Just took delivery of a new Hike 17DB, planning on hitting the road on Monday. Dealer is an hour's drive away and I have some 12V experience, so hoping to sort this out without a drive.

When disconnected, no lights work, awning power light and motor don't work, bathroom fan doesn't work. But the slide-out power light comes on and it operates, as does the motor and light at the hitch.

I hooked up a generator, but it's only taking about 25 watts, and the battery shows 12.8V with the generator attached and detached. With the generator on, everything inside works as it should - lights, fan, power indicators.

It's like the battery is properly charged, the charger is supplying 12V when connected to external power, but something is preventing the battery from supplying most of the 12 circuits.

I haven't started checking fuses since everything works with external power. Any suggestions? (Also, is there any Winnebago support available today, and if so, what phone number?)

[Edit: Looking underneath for the circuit breaker. There are two small red rubber housings that appear to just cover a connection, and a larger metal box (3x5" maybe) closed with two screws in a metal plate, just behind the A-frame's cross brace. Is the circuit breaker inside that box?]
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Old 07-03-2020, 11:11 AM   #2
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Is there a coach/house battery disconnect switch, usually near the entrance door? Also known as a salesman switch. Might be labelled enable/disable?
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Old 07-03-2020, 11:15 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winterbagoal View Post
Is there a coach/house battery disconnect switch, usually near the entrance door? Also known as a salesman switch. Might be labelled enable/disable?
Not that I'm aware of, and I even asked the orientation person if one existed. (Would prefer to have one just to be sure all 12V loads are disconnected.)
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Old 07-03-2020, 11:47 AM   #4
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In a Goggle search, I'm not finding a Hike 17DB! I do see a 17DB model but it is Forest River Vibe so assume that is not it. Can you be more specific on some points, as new is a relative term and then what brand, make, and model might get us closer to the answers as each RV will have different options available. .
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Old 07-03-2020, 11:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
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In a Goggle search, I'm not finding a Hike 17DB! I do see a 17DB model but it is Forest River Vibe so assume that is not it. Can you be more specific on some points, as new is a relative term and then what brand, make, and model might get us closer to the answers as each RV will have different options available. .
Sorry, Hike 171 DB.

I've checked both 40A fuses, and turned all the fuze panel circuit breakers off and on. Even checked most of the fuses, but since it's affecting everything I don't think that's the problem.

In the propane locker, there's a 30A fuse but that runs only to the hitch motor.

Underneath, the two rubber-covered things appear to be connections only (no fuses). The metal box held the connections for all the trailer wiring, no fuses.

And new means 2021 model, took delivery 6/30/2020.
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Old 07-03-2020, 02:05 PM   #6
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Maybe something's unplugged between the battery and the converter charger.
I'm stumped, so I'll pass this one to Morich for further Q&A.
You can email Winnebago support with your year/make/model and VIN or WGO serial numbers @
[email protected]
or try their contact us page
https://winnebagoind.com/contact
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Old 07-03-2020, 02:23 PM   #7
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Thanks, I'm stumped, too. Will do on the email.
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Old 07-03-2020, 02:30 PM   #8
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They aren't the fastest getting back to you, but they will. Just give them as much identifying info in the email as you can, plus your problem details. They can look up schematics and blueprints of your actual unit, if they have to.
Good luck.
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Old 07-03-2020, 03:20 PM   #9
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Not likely to get tech support today for the holiday but suggest using the serial number if you have it as that covers for things that may change mid year at times.
So it works on AC power but nothing like lights when just battery? Do you have an inverter that should change battery power to make AC for some outlets and critical stuff? Any type of automatic switching that is passing power through when plugged in but not putting power on when not plugged?
A thought might be to check at the battery itself for anything that is not connected well. Check both positive and ground cables and check the ground at the frame or other end from the battery.
I might question the voltage readings with the generator running or not being the same. I would expect the output of the generator to change the battery reading from just the battery alone??? More about how the generator is thought to charge the battery? Is there a battery charger somewhere? I'm missing a link between the generator putting out 110Ac and the 12VDC battery?
Sorry more questions than answers but I might look at some of that .
Sorry not at all up on what equipment the newer trailers have and they are also not online for the wiring and details.
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Old 07-03-2020, 10:10 PM   #10
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Thanks, Morich.

No DC->AC inverter involved at all, just whatever stock AC->DC charge controller is installed.

I'm coming to the conclusion that there's a broken circuit between the battery and the charger/control panel.

That would explain why the jack and light work without shore power, they have their own lines from the battery.

I'm wondering if that explains why the slide works, and its power switch illuminates while the awning doesn't. Does the slide have its own line like the jack does?

That would also explain why shore power doesn't change the battery voltage at all, it just sits there at 12.8V because no charging current can reach it. Otherwise I would expect 14V+ when shore power is on.
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Old 07-04-2020, 06:13 AM   #11
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Yes, all that does make sense. The indicator lights actually will often have a different source/wires that the actual motor to move things as the wires for motors take more power/larger wires than they want to run to tiny toggle switches. You might check carefully that there is not a large breaker which then feeds smaller breakers, one to the things that work but one that is not right to feed things that don't work. Some of the automotive type fuses don't always show up that they are blown really well. Or if it is breakers that trip, sometimes they don't fully throw so that throwing them off and then on again gets them working again.
Best of luck in the chase.
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Old 07-04-2020, 10:49 AM   #12
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Winnebago is pretty sparse with their online info for towables.

Here's about the only thing I can point out within your manual..

Travel trailers circuit breakers will be located
inside a covered junction box attached inside the
front cross member of the A-frame. Additional
circuit breakers may be used for slideout switch
protection.
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Old 07-04-2020, 11:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davismills View Post
Winnebago is pretty sparse with their online info for towables.

Here's about the only thing I can point out within your manual..

Travel trailers circuit breakers will be located
inside a covered junction box attached inside the
front cross member of the A-frame. Additional
circuit breakers may be used for slideout switch
protection.
The OP referenced the "box" in the A frame rail in post #1.
You may have nailed it, I hope?
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Old 07-04-2020, 01:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winterbagoal View Post
The OP referenced the "box" in the A frame rail in post #1.
You may have nailed it, I hope?
Me too. We've all been in these "desperate" situations and we all always want to help.
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Old 07-08-2020, 07:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptnKidd View Post

[Edit: Looking underneath for the circuit breaker. There are two small red rubber housings that appear to just cover a connection, and a larger metal box (3x5" maybe) closed with two screws in a metal plate, just behind the A-frame's cross brace. Is the circuit breaker inside that box?]
Does the item with the red rubber plugs look like this: https://www.fredwarner.net/product/b...QaAoQVEALw_wcB

If so, that is a circuit breaker and some styles are manual resettable. This serves as a main over-current protection for the battery.

I would also check your battery negative connection. Sometimes the negative wire from the battery is connected to the frame with a self tap screw and they don't serve well as a conductor.

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Old 07-08-2020, 08:25 PM   #16
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I have a Mini Drop very similar to your trailer.
Front right cargo door back inside is a battery cutoff switch.
With it off I can still operate slideout and power jack.
Have a look around storage compartments inside (hard to see) for cutoff switch.
Tim
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Old 07-11-2020, 09:52 AM   #17
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Tsperry was exactly right.

I had even asked the dealer about a battery cutoff and was told there isn't one on this model. But yeah, you have to actually shove your head into the starboard pass-thru door to see it on the inside wall. It disconnects all but the slide and jack.
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Old 07-19-2020, 10:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptnKidd View Post
Tsperry was exactly right.

I had even asked the dealer about a battery cutoff and was told there isn't one on this model. But yeah, you have to actually shove your head into the starboard pass-thru door to see it on the inside wall. It disconnects all but the slide and jack.
Darn it, I'm having the exact same problem with my 2019 2108FBS, and this post got my hopes up, but no luck. The only electrical I can see inside the passthrough are wires to two side towing lights and a 12v led dome similar to the interior lights. Used the trailer as a glorified tent last night, with no 12v power. Batteries are down to 11.5V due to using the tongue jack a few times and presumably not having charged in awhile. Have a trip planned in 5 days that I'd really like to take the trailer on rather than hotelling.
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