Need Electrical help

[Indy Bob]

Please help. Generator is dead, Elec panel went blank. Power to outlets. No AC. No ceiling lights

[dbord]

If you want help your going to have to provide more info.

[charlescho]

Can someone explain how to wire the Cole Hersee 24213 for someone replacing at Trombetta? Pin 1 and 4 connect to the house and chassis positive respectively? And the yellow connect to pin 2? And jump pin 3 to pin 4?

A photo of their Cole Hersee installed would be appreciated.

[Morich]

Originally Posted by charlescho

Can someone explain how to wire the Cole Hersee 24213 for someone replacing at Trombetta? Pin 1 and 4 connect to the house and chassis positive respectively? And the yellow connect to pin 2? And jump pin 3 to pin 4?

A photo of their Cole Hersee installed would be appreciated.

While it seems easy to short cut things, it often leads to lots more confusion as many of us do not know what it is you need and part of that is not knowing what the Trombetta is. Can we assume it is the solenoid you are wanting to replace? Solenoids are a pretty simple item but they get used for lots of different things and on lots of different RV, so giving more information is going to make it lots easier to get the right answers.

[charlescho]

Originally Posted by Morich

While it seems easy to short cut things, it often leads to lots more confusion as many of us do not know what it is you need and part of that is not knowing what the Trombetta is. Can we assume it is the solenoid you are wanting to replace? Solenoids are a pretty simple item but they get used for lots of different things and on lots of different RV, so giving more information is going to make it lots easier to get the right answers.

I have a 2020 Intent 26M that stopped charging the house battery while driving.

Looking on the internet led me to determine that it could be the Trombetta 936-1215-011 battery isolating solenoid that has failed.

I do not hear a click when the battery booster switch at the dashboard is engaged, nor when the engine is turned on.

*PLOT TWIST!!!*

I took out the solenoid to troubleshoot it while disconnected from the MH. When I applied 12v to the ground and middle post, I hear a click, and there is indeed perfect continuity between the left and right post, as verified with my multimeter.

So ultimately what is happening is, the yellow wire that is connected to the middle post is not sending out a 12v signal when either the Battery Boost switch is on and when the ignition is turned on.

Now that I've isolated the problem, where should I go look? I've looked under the fuse box under the steering wheel and all the fuses are good. Is there possibly an inline fuse between the Battery Boost switch and the solenoid?

*Additional info*

I just went and check all the fuses in the converter box and they all tested good too.

[Morich]

Got the drawings out and did some looking. drawing here:
https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2018/000038111.pdf
sheet three seems to be the better picture with the wire ID you will need to find. Winnebago labels the wires along the side as a string of numbers, etc and the last tow or three being the one to look for in this chart:
https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram...ical_guide.pdf

Wire FM is ground coming in on a bundle of wires and laid under a mounting screw of the solenoid, so worth making sure the solenoid is grounded at that point. Normally I think of the mounting screw in metal as ground but they bring one in,so good to check?
Then there is wire LR which comes from the boost switch to the solenoid and I would assume it has to bring the battery to operate the solenoid.
I think you have the main idea but it is that there is a start battery cable on one side (maybe left?) and coach battery cable on the other side and the solenoid just ties them together when operated!
To make it tough, they do not give us the real schematic drawings for the later model rV! But it may help to compare with other RV which we can get the drawings on and a recent post is here:
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ne-359378.html
Down about post 11, there is info on the wires used on their rV and may be the same on your's???
I am guessing that battery comes from a start battery buss bar, to the switch where it passes through to one wire when switch is normal and then LR when the switch is pushed to make the solenoid work. A wire KE on the boost/ aux switch may be the right one to bring power to the switch???
This is the parts catalog and can be a big help to locate things like breakers and bus bars:
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
But that is pretty clearly a guess without having drawings to sort!!

[JimMcG]

I went this whole route last month. Only to find fuse #12 blown. I had visually confirmed it was ok!!! DO NOT EVER EVER EVER look at a fuse and assume it's ok. Ohm meter test it.
Mine had a hair line fracture at the tab connection . 60 years of this crap and I make that stupid mistake!!!!!!!!!!

[charlescho]

Originally Posted by JimMcG

I went this whole route last month. Only to find fuse #12 blown. I had visually confirmed it was ok!!! DO NOT EVER EVER EVER look at a fuse and assume it's ok. Ohm meter test it.
Mine had a hair line fracture at the tab connection . 60 years of this crap and I make that stupid mistake!!!!!!!!!!

I'd like to further add that everyone should invest in a good multimeter. Also, you can do an Ohm or continuity test from the top of the fuse. It's accurate and very fast that way.

[Morich]

Originally Posted by JimMcG

I went this whole route last month. Only to find fuse #12 blown. I had visually confirmed it was ok!!! DO NOT EVER EVER EVER look at a fuse and assume it's ok. Ohm meter test it.
Mine had a hair line fracture at the tab connection . 60 years of this crap and I make that stupid mistake!!!!!!!!!!

YUP! we keep making the same old mistakes. Have you tried the one where you keep testing things and beat it to death only to find the lead fell out of the meter?
Keep in mind that the only folks making mistakes are the ones who are working!

[BobC]

In addition to a multimeter, another good investment is a wire tracer. They're not too expensive at about $25:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And, if you get a multimeter that has a clamp-on DC amp probe, all the better. That way you don't have to disconnect anything to measure the amps flowing through a wire. Most that have DC capability also have AC capability, but double check to make sure.