Monitor Panel Info Needed

dschaney · 12-06-2021, 08:58 AM

New here and just finished my first year with a motorhome, and can't wait until spring. Unfortunately my monitor panel is out on my 2002 Sightseer, and they are no longer available anywhere. I have found the problem on the circuit board (L5118-00 Rev G) and could potentially fix if I could find a schematic for the board. I have searched everywhere with no luck, anyone have a schematic that shows which diodes are in which locations. Thanks in advance

**creativepart** · 12-06-2021, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dschaney

New here and just finished my first year with a motorhome, and can't wait until spring. Unfortunately my monitor panel is out on my 2002 Sightseer, and they are no longer available anywhere.

I would guess you have 3 or more "monitor panels" on your RV.

We need the exact panel you are speaking of - a photo will be even better.

It also helps to know what model Sightseer you have.

In short, specifics. We need specifics.

Welcome!

PS. Here's how to add your info to your Signature in your Profile:

dschaney · 12-06-2021, 09:43 AM

Specifics are good, I probably should have started with those lol. This is off of a 2002 Winnebago Sightseer 30B

**creativepart** · 12-06-2021, 09:51 AM

OK, on later models they put a "OnePlace" logo on those monitors and merged them into fewer sections.

I seriously doubt you'll ever find a schematic for that circuit board. But you may be able to find a part number or a used part.

I assume you've done some extensive testing of the power and grounding going into and out of the board???

Does anything work? The water heater switch? The gen start?

Is there a manufacturer name on the circuit board? I see it right there. I can't read above the "Adjustaboard" writing.

dschaney · 12-06-2021, 09:57 AM

I have the part number and have been looking for months with no luck. The switches all work and the lights light up but don't actually give a true indication of how full the tanks are. My inverter went bad and let the batteries overcharge burning out that first diode

**creativepart** · 12-06-2021, 10:06 AM

Oh, there's lots of info there.

Winnebago Industries part number 133940-01-700

Ventline Adjustaboard L5118-00

It used to be on Amazon:

https://uedata.amazon.com/Ventline-L.../dp/B00TFNT72K

Here's a troubleshooting manual:

https://www.nroa2003.com/download/Ow...tor-Manual.pdf

Here's a Contact Us page from the manufacturer's website:

https://www.ventline.com/contact_us

tim myers · 12-10-2021, 02:25 PM

Sorry, this is a little off topic ...... Looks like there are adjustment potentiometers on that board for the Black, Grey and Fresh Water tanks, I did not know those existed, too bad there isn't a hold in the panel to give access.

RV Tinker · 12-30-2021, 05:48 PM

I would be interested if you do find a schematic for that board. I have the same monitor panel in my 2003 Minni. Wondering why you think it is a diode? Looking at the picture of the board the only component that looks funny is resistor R2, but that could be the lighting. Checked online and the board does not appear to be available. Best bet is to contact the company and ask for a schematic or help. In any case it is a fairly simple board and if you can identify the part numbers from the components on board You can replace them. My bets are that resistor R2, or the voltage regulator, LM7808CT (U1), has failed.

Morich · 12-30-2021, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Tinker

I would be interested if you do find a schematic for that board. I have the same monitor panel in my 2003 Minni. Wondering why you think it is a diode? Looking at the picture of the board the only component that looks funny is resistor R2, but that could be the lighting. Checked online and the board does not appear to be available. Best bet is to contact the company and ask for a schematic or help. In any case it is a fairly simple board and if you can identify the part numbers from the components on board You can replace them. My bets are that resistor R2, or the voltage regulator, LM7808CT (U1), has failed.

Good eyes, there to spot the odd fellow!
I agree that it looks really strange as they come in lots of cute colors but never black with a white center stripe.

But that making it easy to spot is also part of the problem as it is so burned that one can't guess what to replace it with!

Life's like that. Just when you think you've found a winner, it breaks a leg!

But on the search for a board or repair, if one of you folks who have this board could look at the colors of this resister, it WOULD make repair a much better shot!
Or if somebody with better memory who pays more attention happens to remember other posts about this board, does anybody remember about there being a red and a green board and one replaced the other?
Vague memory but it seems like was a fellow on here that liked to hang out in Mexico and had done quite a search/research on his board situation? Even to the point of drilling access holes in the faceplate over the pots to adjust??

Or did I just make that up while dozing off??

Any chance a search for a red or green board would turn up the info on a replacement that Ventline made?

EDIT:
Found one post from a series that have gone across the screen, this is the poster I was thinking of but not the right post on the red/green board:
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...an-361721.html

Morich · 12-30-2021, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dschaney

I have the part number and have been looking for months with no luck. The switches all work and the lights light up but don't actually give a true indication of how full the tanks are. My inverter went bad and let the batteries overcharge burning out that first diode

Big question? What is your status on this? Are you don't to chasing "possible" alternate boards on th evague memory of a guy posting on a forum?

I have not done a good enough search of the forum to find the red/green board discussion but I have turned up a red board for sale! I havetrouble most of the time when I do that search.
Does that have any info on it being the correct board? NO! Just a board that might do for the replacement that I "seem to remember"

I thought I might throw in the idea and let you folks who need repair do the big decisions of the value!

https://autosparty.com/ventline-l513...tor-panel-red/

cbeierl · 12-30-2021, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morich

Good eyes, there to spot the odd fellow!
I agree that it looks really strange as they come in lots of cute colors but never black with a white center stripe.

But that making it easy to spot is also part of the problem as it is so burned that one can't guess what to replace it with!

Life's like that. Just when you think you've found a winner, it breaks a leg!

But on the search for a board or repair, if one of you folks who have this board could look at the colors of this resister, it WOULD make repair a much better shot! ...l

The earlier link to the board on Amazon has a good picture of the board with R2 and its color codes visible in the lower left corner.

RV Tinker · 01-02-2022, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbeierl

The earlier link to the board on Amazon has a good picture of the board with R2 and its color codes visible in the lower left corner.

OK, went out to MH and pulled panel. I have exact same board (same model but revision J, yours is G). Resistor R2 is a 140 ohm 1% resistor. Color code is Brn Yel Blk Blk , Brn (140-1%). Is also same value on later revision boards that I was able to find pictures of. Resistor appears to be in input circuit for battery voltage going to comparator I.C. Hope it helps

Morich · 01-02-2022, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Tinker

OK, went out to MH and pulled panel. I have exact same board (same model but revision J, yours is G). Resistor R2 is a 140 ohm 1% resistor. Color code is Brn Yel Blk Blk , Brn (140-1%). Is also same value on later revision boards that I was able to find pictures of. Resistor appears to be in input circuit for battery voltage going to comparator I.C. Hope it helps

This sound shopefull but then it may be just part of the chase as I don't often think of th eresister being the more "fragile" of things when a chip is involved. Certainly worth a shot to replace something that cheap but then it may not be the only thing involved??
My thought is that if there were enough current flowing to burn a resiter, where else was that current going?

Another way to go for more info might be a call to ventline and just ask if there is a newer isee board that this as it may be a known problem board that one might want to bite the bullet now rather than do some work to fix this one only to find it has builtin problems. Hard to tell which way to jump until you get good info!

RV Tinker · 01-02-2022, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morich

This sound shopefull but then it may be just part of the chase as I don't often think of th eresister being the more "fragile" of things when a chip is involved. Certainly worth a shot to replace something that cheap but then it may not be the only thing involved??
My thought is that if there were enough current flowing to burn a resiter, where else was that current going?

Another way to go for more info might be a call to ventline and just ask if there is a newer isee board that this as it may be a known problem board that one might want to bite the bullet now rather than do some work to fix this one only to find it has builtin problems. Hard to tell which way to jump until you get good info!

True. I would suspect any componet that was connected to the same trace. That's why I would also suspect the 8 volt regulator. Ventline would be best source to contact for information. I suspect that they no longer support that board as it is 18 years old. However I have troubleshot and repaired electronics where a resistor failed and that was the only problem. In any case none of the components on that board are very expensive.

Morich · 01-03-2022, 07:51 AM

I DO KNOW there is a red board and a green board but why and which is the newer is not something I remember, just that there are two boards and one was to replace the other!

RV Tinker · 01-03-2022, 11:16 PM

Pictures of red board I have seen on internet all have later date codes on them than the green boards. Also ventline PCB L5131-00 appears to be very similar. This company claims to be able to repair Ventline PCBs. https://www.controlrepair.com/produc...it-board/54234. Looks like they may have replacement panels as well.

BobC · 01-04-2022, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dschaney

I have the part number and have been looking for months with no luck. The switches all work and the lights light up but don't actually give a true indication of how full the tanks are. My inverter went bad and let the batteries overcharge burning out that first diode

Do the lights (LEDs) give any indication of how full the tanks are even if they're inaccurate? Most of these units are woefully inaccurate for a number of reasons, dirty or bad sensors, etc. For example, my black water tank never shows less than 1/3 full. My LPG levels and clean water levels seem to be the most accurate. On the other hand, the top part of the board and possibly R2 appear to be a power supply and could cause an across the board failure.

By "first diode", do you mean CR1? You probably already know this but diodes can be tested "in circuit" with a multimeter so I assume you've tested it. A failed diode is either going to be short in both directions or open in both directions.

Another part I would add to the suspect list is the large electrolytic capacitor. They are one of the most common reasons for failure in old circuit boards. Like resistors, they can't be tested in-circuit and the damage isn't always apparent via swelling or leakage. I once talked to a guy who worked for a company that repaired small office telephone systems and he said failed electrolytic capacitors were the most common problem. In repairing old amplifiers and Ham radios, it's common to "re-cap" them as a matter of course.

The suspect parts, the diode (or diodes), the voltage regulator, the capacitor and the resistor are all inexpensive and easy to replace. Since the capacitor, resistor and voltage regulator have to be removed to check to see if they're good or not, it's just as easy to replace them. Since Radio Shack and Fry's along with many local electronics stores have closed, finding the parts locally might be a challenge. Mouser Electronics is a good online source and many parts, like your voltage regulator, are available from Amazon (5 for $2.11).

Although not ideal, if you don't think your de-soldering skills are up to completely removing the parts from the mounting holes, you can clip them out and solder the new parts to the remaining wire stubs. This can reduce the risk of damaging the PCB board.