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Old 05-29-2021, 08:58 AM   #1
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Issue: Pure3 Lithium Ions Won’t Charge While Driving?

I have a Travato 2019 that I recently puchased used. Seems like everything works except for the fact that the Lithium ion batteries won’t charge while driving. Has anyone else had this issue? Any suggested fixes?
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Old 05-29-2021, 12:03 PM   #2
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What type of battery isolator system do you have between the coach batteries and the chassis battery/alternator. If it is the Precision Circuits BIM 160, it may have been wired incorrectly. If you have one, check the terminals. Terminal A should be connected to the chassis alternator/battery and terminal B should be connected to the coach batteries.

Thor for one, wires them backwards and they won't charge from the chassis alternator that way.

David
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Old 06-14-2021, 02:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainEndo View Post
I have a Travato 2019 that I recently puchased used. Seems like everything works except for the fact that the Lithium ion batteries won’t charge while driving. Has anyone else had this issue? Any suggested fixes?
Hey Captain, did you get it charging? When I do a autostart charge I only move the gauge from 0 to 10 after 75 minutes. And driving I don't think I get a charge either.

Thanks,
Keith
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Old 06-14-2021, 04:23 PM   #4
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We've been having the same problem with our 2021 View 24D - lithium batteries don't seem to be charging while driving. They charge from solar, shore power and generator - but don't appear to chare from the engine.

Lichtsinn already replaced the Chargemate Pro - and it seemed to fix the issue after the repair - but we're back to no charging while driving.
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Old 06-14-2021, 06:10 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by rprochnow View Post
We've been having the same problem with our 2021 View 24D - lithium batteries don't seem to be charging while driving. They charge from solar, shore power and generator - but don't appear to chare from the engine.

Lichtsinn already replaced the Chargemate Pro - and it seemed to fix the issue after the repair - but we're back to no charging while driving.
This is a point where I would want to do some testing or have somebody do it for me as I watched. The new electronics seem to have folks terribly confused but they are much the same as the older systems which used a mode solenoid--- except they are now solid state and we can't hear or see them work, so we have to test. RV techs come in all levels of training and some do not like meters!

My first step would be to verify there is an actual problem by testing the battery voltages. One place to do that is the solid state "box" which has replaced the solenoid of older RV as all the things we need are right there together.

My method would be:
Step one, check the voltage of the start battery where I marked in red and then the voltage of the chassis battery as marked in yellow. This should be done when all things are normal on cutoff switches and no charging for an hour or more so that the batteries are stable. Kind of note the two readings as we want to compare later. If there is not enough difference in voltages to tell, perhaps turn on some coach lights, fans, etc to drag that one a bit lower so we can spot changes.

Step two, start the RV engine and note how it changes the start voltage. At first a drop as we crank, then a sudden increase as we rev the engine a bit to make the alternator put out higher voltage. While there, then test the coach battery level at the yellow mark and it should be higher than when we first read it as it is expected to be connected through and getting the power from the alternator on the other cable. If they are connecting together, the voltage on both should be near the same and go up a bit as we rev the engine or down as we let off to idle. If you get that, the charge system is good and if the coach batteries are not getting or holding the charge, look on toward the batteries as it is okay here!

But if you DO NOT get that answer, more checking is needed, so shut down the engine and pull the two small wires, labeled LR and FM as these are the control battery and ground from the dash area and we need to check them for faults.

When all is normal, engine not running but all disconnect switches on, there should be no voltage on LR but I think FM will show ground. Then have somebody push the boost or aux start switch on the dash and you expect to see voltage on LR! This is what connects the two batteries together to boost start the engine if needed.
But this wire also does the same when we start the engine, it connects batteries together to charge them, so look at the voltage with the engine running and there should be 12 volts or more between LR and FM!
If not, chase the problem back toward the dash but if the voltage is there but the solid state box is not connecting them, the box may be faulty and more in depth testing is needed to find why!
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Old 06-14-2021, 08:59 PM   #6
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Keith,

Yes. I’m back to charging. I called Volta, and they led me through some relatively easy troubleshooting on the phone. We found a blown fuse and a faulty alternator power control box. I’m back up and running. I’m pretty much a disaster with tools, but this was easy even for me. I woul suggest giving the Volta Power systems a call. 616-226-4222
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