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Old 05-01-2022, 04:40 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jokaj View Post
Thanks. I bought the 3000w during black friday/lightning deal which was the same cost as the 2000w. I didn't have much time to think about it and pushed the button .
Do you happen to know what fuse I will need? I can't seem to find anything online except for a goPower class t 400amp. The ANL don't seem to be able to handle 4/0 wires and the circuit breakers are only rated for 300 amps.
Try thinking this through in another way.
What would be the maximum DC current you expect the draw at any one time? Let's say your major current draw will be the microwave. IF it uses 185A than you will use 12Vx185A=2220W. Your inverter size is okay. Just a little oversize. You will need 4/0 AWG cable in any case a 300A fuse will work. I would not go larger. At 12V that is 3600W rating.
The problem here is not the inverter size. Yes, it is a big, robust inverter. You will limit it's output by what fussing and cable you attach to it and your battery bank size. You will have to consider the size of the LiPo4 battery. That is a big inverter for such a small (relative) battery. It will charge it just fine.
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Old 05-01-2022, 08:56 PM   #22
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Inverter set-up

Here are photos of my install with some labels. I have a Victron 3000 inverter/charger and 3 100AH Battle Born lithium batteries. I used 4/0 cable and did it all myself. I built my own busbars out of 1/4" by 1" copper bar that I ordered online and made up all my cables as well. I grounded the negative busbar to the chassis.

I have the space and solar panel capacity to add another 100AH battery should I choose to do so. We frequently run the microwave on our system and my wife can run her hair dryer as well, but not at the same time.

Jon
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Old 05-02-2022, 10:10 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by moabdds View Post
Here are photos of my install with some labels. I have a Victron 3000 inverter/charger and 3 100AH Battle Born lithium batteries. I used 4/0 cable and did it all myself. I built my own busbars out of 1/4" by 1" copper bar that I ordered online and made up all my cables as well. I grounded the negative busbar to the chassis.

I have the space and solar panel capacity to add another 100AH battery should I choose to do so. We frequently run the microwave on our system and my wife can run her hair dryer as well, but not at the same time.

Jon
That is a work of art! Beautiful and so professional looking. Thanks for sharing your great success with us.
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Old 05-02-2022, 11:24 AM   #24
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It's been said a number of times, but it can't be stressed enough. ALL negatives (charge and loads) go to the shunt. The ONLY connection on the other side of the shunt is to ultimate ground. Anything which goes around the shunt will be ignored by the monitoring system.
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Old 05-03-2022, 08:20 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by MadMaxWinny View Post
It's been said a number of times, but it can't be stressed enough. ALL negatives (charge and loads) go to the shunt. The ONLY connection on the other side of the shunt is to ultimate ground. Anything which goes around the shunt will be ignored by the monitoring system.
That is a great way to explain the "why" of the shunt and load monitoring.
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