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Old 06-27-2014, 10:59 AM   #1
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Question Ignition switch on for coach lights

Is it normal to have to have the ignition switch in the run position in order for the 12V coach lights to work? This is only on battery power. Dosn't happen when plugged into an AC source.

1987, Winnebago Cheiftan, 27ft.

Thanks.
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:49 AM   #2
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No, your 12v lights should work without the ignition on. You should have a battery disconnect switch in your rig, it may be turned off. If it is you will have no 12v.
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:01 PM   #3
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On my 1990 Superchief my disconnect switch is next to the ignition switch. When on its green.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:57 AM   #4
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I suspected that the switch should not have to be on. I'll need to teat the dash apart and try to rewire things. Anyone know of a source for the wiring diagrams for an 87 Winnie Chieftain?
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:54 AM   #5
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You can download a 1990 diagram HERE
Winnebago doesn't usually change much year to year so the 1990 diagram will probably give you a good idea of the wiring.
Do you have a battery disconnect switch? If so make sure it is not in the disconnect position. Are your house batteries/battery charged? Are the cable connections good?
I would do some troubleshooting before tearing the dash apart.

Winnebago has for years used a wire from the run terminal on the ignition switch to activate a continuous duty solenoid to connect the engine battery/alternator to the house batteries so they are charged when the engine is running. If the house batteries are not in the circuit that would explain why you only have dc voltage when the ignition switch is on. That fact that you have dc when connected to shore power shows that your converter is working.
It sure sounds like your house battery is not connected for some reason.
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Old 06-30-2014, 10:19 AM   #6
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Thanks for the info and download location. I'll check the RV over and let you all know.
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Old 06-30-2014, 10:48 AM   #7
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On most RV's there is some kind of battery control system.. On mine it is an Intelletec BCC for Gassers.

I have two (well 3 but let's ignore the 3rd) Battery banks (2 from factory). the BCC isolates them when Im parked
It also disconnects teh house batteries if I operate the switch which in this rig is in the step well but they scatter them about in other rigs, Dash, Overhead panel, And so on.

The hook up is something like this

Chassis battery-----Bcc and other stuff----House battery

Other stuff includes the engine and chassis systems, Some of these (2) are connected directly to the battery, some (rest) via the BCC but they connect to the chassis battery when you turn ignition on.

HOUSE systems connect, normally, to the house battery unless you disconnecte

The ISOLATOR is between the two

Kind of like this

B Isolator CC

When you start the engine, after a few seconds, the isolator closes and chassis power is provided to the house EVEN IF THE HOUSE BATTERIES ARE IN STORE (Off/Disconnected) MODE.

So the disconnect is clearly your problem

I might add, the converter is a "House" Device so it too is not connected to the batteries.
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:36 AM   #8
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Thanks for the info. I was able to "bench test" the INTELLITECH battery disconnect relay yesterday. Thanks to this page

http://www.flemingsalesoem.com/intel...5322019100.pdf

I was able to determine that the 2 wires that operate the relay are not "hot/12V" and ground, but were both. The dashboard switch that I have to connect and disconnect (turn on and turn off) the relay applies 12v to one terminal and ground to the other for off and reverses that for on. So, I removed the relay, applied both ground and 12V sequences and the relay clicked. So, I am assuming that the switch is bad or not getting power for some reason. The wiring diagram found here http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/1990/099082.pdf shows me the switch and related stuff, but I can't see where the 12V would come from. The relevant info is found on the third page, left part of the page. I don't know what the thing is called, or where it is at, where all the wires to the switch are connected.
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:05 AM   #9
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Below is a drawing I made of mine showing the switch wiring and the solenoid. From your description it sounds like yours might be the same. !2 volts comes in on the wire labeled LI that connects to the solenoid terminal that connects to the house battery. Yours may (probably has?) have a different label.

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Old 07-02-2014, 07:07 AM   #10
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Thanks Clay. My setup is different than yours. For my generator to power the RV, I have to plug in the shore power cord into an outlet. My house battery's positive cable connects where your generator is at. On the other side, I have a short cable going to the other solenoid. I also have 2 fuses on the top of my solenoid with wire going to an unknown point. The fuses are good. Is your LI line connected to the same place as the cable terminal or is it from a fuse?
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:19 AM   #11
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Picture of my battery disconnect relay

Hope the picture uploads correctly.

I am not sure where the yellow and red wires go that are connected to the fuses. Do they run to the in-dash disconnect switch?

Today, I'm going to clean all terminal/battery connections, make sure all coach batteries are fully charged and see if that will help.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:27 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by rbinkerd View Post
Thanks Clay. My setup is different than yours. For my generator to power the RV, I have to plug in the shore power cord into an outlet. My house battery's positive cable connects where your generator is at. On the other side, I have a short cable going to the other solenoid. I also have 2 fuses on the top of my solenoid with wire going to an unknown point. The fuses are good. Is your LI line connected to the same place as the cable terminal or is it from a fuse?
I have to plug my shore power cable into an outlet also. In the diagram the line going from the solenoid to the generator is DC power for the generator starter. That terminal also connects to the converter.
LI is not fused.
Winnebago dropped the fused solenoid somewhere along the way but as I recall a picture in some of the stuff I downloaded for my coach still showed them.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbinkerd View Post
Hope the picture uploads correctly.

I am not sure where the yellow and red wires go that are connected to the fuses. Do they run to the in-dash disconnect switch?

Today, I'm going to clean all terminal/battery connections, make sure all coach batteries are fully charged and see if that will help.
You might want to go to Manuals & Diagrams and download a 1990 model year set of wiring diagrams for the Adventurer. The fused solenoid wiring might be shown. They don't change much year to year as a rule.
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbinkerd View Post
I removed the relay, applied both ground and 12V sequences and the relay clicked. So, I am assuming that the switch is bad or not getting power for some reason.
In the BCC (Battery control center) along the bottom row is a 5 amp fuse.. It may be blown,, OR... Let me tell you a short story

Mine failed, like yours, Bad "USE/STORE" switch.. now I have some training in electronics so I tried switch cleaning method 1.

Remove the switch and cycle like 50-100 times, both directions, re-install and test.

or B: Remove aforementioned 5 amp fuse, and cycle switch 50-100 times, and replace.

Then re-test

Turns out the switch was dirty and it's a self cleaning model, So that cleans it (Cycling w/o power)
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:21 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbinkerd View Post
Hope the picture uploads correctly.

I am not sure where the yellow and red wires go that are connected to the fuses. Do they run to the in-dash disconnect switch?

Today, I'm going to clean all terminal/battery connections, make sure all coach batteries are fully charged and see if that will help.
I have not participated in this thread but I found it interesting. Did you solve your problem? If so, what was the fix?

Thanks,

Rick Y
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Old 07-05-2014, 04:43 PM   #16
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Problem not solved yet. I'm replacing the 2 coach batteries as they are bad.
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:44 PM   #17
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Solved!

Turns out, it was just totally dead/shot batteries. Hooked everything up and all is well now. Apparently, you need good power from the coach batteries to make the relays work. Sure glad it wasn't the switch.
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:45 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by rbinkerd View Post
Turns out, it was just totally dead/shot batteries. Hooked everything up and all is well now. Apparently, you need good power from the coach batteries to make the relays work. Sure glad it wasn't the switch.
Glad to hear the great news! FYI: This same relay is used for charging each battery bank as needed and is a great source of frustration when one string begins to fail for no good reason. Though the relay may be working mechanically, it may have bad charging contacts. Please keep this in mind if your batteries start to loose charge for no apparent reason.

Happy trails,
Rick Y
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:18 PM   #19
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I have not participated in this thread but I found it interesting. Did you solve your problem? If so, what was the fix?

Thanks,

Rick Y
Turns out that even though the batteries were shot, that was not the real cause of the problem. It was the switch in the dash. I couldn't find an exact replacement anywhere, so I bought a double pole, double throw, self centering switch from Radio Shack. Installed that and a green led light to show the state of the relay and all is well. The original red led was also burnt out.
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Old 12-14-2014, 07:52 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbinkerd View Post
Turns out that even though the batteries were shot, that was not the real cause of the problem. It was the switch in the dash. I couldn't find an exact replacement anywhere, so I bought a double pole, double throw, self centering switch from Radio Shack. Installed that and a green led light to show the state of the relay and all is well. The original red led was also burnt out.
The switch was in the wrong position? No indicator to tell you? Or was the sw bad to boot?

As you can see from my signature I am providing information to all so that they know what I am talking about specific to my rig. What do you have for a coach? Posting your fix is very good. Posting it to a coach specific problem is even better for the one who is in the same boat. Besides that, you are on a forum with folks who 'know' where to get the part you are looking for. Again, all positive.

Thanks for what you have shared.

Happy trails.

Rick Y
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