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Old 03-24-2022, 07:37 AM   #1
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How to replace wire in wall of motorhome

My electric wire going to the microwave as shorted out. How do you replace it?
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Old 03-24-2022, 09:26 AM   #2
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Not to be a smart-Alec, but are you sure the wire is bad. Did you disconnect from both ends to check it. Could be a bad outlet or breaker. Has a previous owner added something to the circuit that is causing the problem?
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Old 03-24-2022, 10:34 AM   #3
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I'm with mikf, it's highly unlikely that a wire is going to fail mid-circuit. Your profile says you have a 40' Vectra but there are several 40' models depending on the year, all of which is important in sorting out your problem.

Here's a link to Winnebago's wiring diagrams. Note there are installation diagrams, which show locations and traditional wiring schematics. There's also a wiring identification guide that identifies the wires based on the number codes printed on them. All three of these resources should be of assistance.

I don't have any experience with Vectras but, based on my reading of many similar posts, often these problems can be traced back to a tripped or defective GCFI (ground fault circuit interrupter). These GCFIs can be in unexpected locations, controlling several, seemingly unrelated "downstream" outlets.

I assume you've plugged something else into the microwave's outlet to make sure it's not working.
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Old 03-25-2022, 05:08 AM   #4
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The wire at the microwave has power showing when the probes are on the black wire and the ground (bare copper) so yes the wire is the problem.
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Old 03-25-2022, 06:59 AM   #5
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The wire at the microwave has power showing when the probes are on the black wire and the ground (bare copper) so yes the wire is the problem.
I would still go to the circuit breaker and wiggle the white wire. Maybe it is broken and just sitting close to the neutral bar. Sometimes the wire gets nicked when removing the insulation and over time it will eventually break. It just doesn’t make sense that one wire would break in the middle.
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Old 03-25-2022, 07:33 AM   #6
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The wire at the microwave has power showing when the probes are on the black wire and the ground (bare copper) so yes the wire is the problem.
Do you mean, power between the black and ground but not between the black and white? I assume you mean at the microwave receptacle and not literally "at the microwave", which wouldn't eliminate the microwave cord itself.

Assuming you mean at the receptacle, this doesn't definitely mean the wire itself is bad, it could mean that the white wire connection at the other end is bad or something is bad upstream from it. To be sure, you need to test all along the pathway, wherever there's a connection.

You still haven't identified the year and exact model so we can take a look at the applicable wiring diagrams for the details.

As an example, I took a look at the diagrams for the 2006 40' Vectras (S40KD and S40FD) and see that the microwave's receptacle is wired to the inverter and there are two connections between it and the microwave receptacle. In addition to the two connections, the diagram for the S40KD shows a "blank receptacle" also in the line.

Here's the link to the 2006 S40KD diagram. You can see the connections, along with their locations in the middle of the diagram, the microwave is connected to inverter breaker labeled BLK:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_152891.pdf

Once you ID your exact year and model's diagram and determine its specifics. You'll need to check for continuity all along the path at each connection site or inline receptacle.

Here's the link to all the diagrams:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ram/Wiring.htm
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Old 03-25-2022, 08:52 AM   #7
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The wire at the microwave has power showing when the probes are on the black wire and the ground (bare copper) so yes the wire is the problem.
So you don't have a short which would have tripped the breaker but you have an open neutral. Like Bob says, unless a screw or something cut the neutral it is likely a connection, either at the outlet, at the neutral bus in the panel or at any junction if there are any. If anything else shares the circuit with the microwave check the junction which could be in another outlet or in the panel itself with wire nuts. For example my microwave shares with the electric heating element in the water heater. I can say that in my career in the electrical business I can never recall a conductor become open in the middle of a wall unless it was a screw or a sawzall, even rodents only eat the insulation resulting in a short but not an open conductor. It's always at a junction. Be especially wary of where the jacket was stripped off the Romex, I have seen the wire get nicked during installation and eventually break inside the insulation where you can't see it.
If you do end up having to run a new wire it is not necessary to follow the same route as the old one, you may have to run it underneath the rig (with protection) and punch back in where you can come up to the microwave. Coming thru closets, cabinets and pantry is an option but again the wire should be in a protective conduit when outside the walls.
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Old 03-30-2022, 07:53 PM   #8
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I have a 05 vectra 36 RD with the kitchen on the drivers side over the oven in the side. I had the exact problem to my microwave. The short was/is somewhere between the breaker and where the wire came out from the frame before it went to the coil bundle for the slide. I abandoned that wire and routed a new one along a different path that was easier to get to than the center of the chassis. If your kitchen floor plan is like mine, there is a junction box for that circuit under the stove, which is easily removed. If you have a drawer under your stove you can remove it and towards the back you'll see two plastic junctiins. One for the microwave and one for the outlet. The wire in the wall was fine and it working as I type this.
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