Is my boost solenoid "on" all the time? ...I'm not sure.
... Now I think it maybe "on" when I turn on the BDS by flipping up the Saleman Switch at the door.
I can't measure the voltage at the boost solenoid since my coach is in storage. However, I think it is possible that you guys are right!
I looked at a few pictures I took of my Boost solenoid, and maybe I color coded my wire diagram wrong:
* I assumed the boost switch was "hot" at the dash, but the more I think about it... the boost switches ground. (See white wire "MG" in my schematic.)
* If this is correct then the boost hot wire "LR" may be connected to the BDS "hot" post where "LG" connects.
==> Since the BDS is a latching solenoid, that may mean when "latched-on" the coil post "LG" is hot all the time... and if the yellow "LR" wire is connect at this point, then the BDS also turns on and off the BOOST solenoid.
==> So the Boost dash switch is a a switch to ground! Is that right?
==> If so, then you all are right and my BOOST solenoid is on all the time when I am driving and when I am camping, because the Salesman Switch at the door is "on" all the time to keep my BDS "on."
"WOOPS" ...I apologize for getting this wrong! ...But thank you pointing this out to me.
===== MORE SOLENOIDS MYSTERYS TO SOLVE ===
Cbeirel: I reviewed all 6 pages of that old (2008-2010) thread you referred us to, and now I can see you and other notable forum members like John Cantfield and MrTransistor tackled this same subject... sort of.
Back then, as I understand it... Trombetta was shipping 12V coils in their Boost Solenoids and everyone was burning them up because the alternator was putting out 14V+.
RESISTOR FIX
Then you came along and used a few resistors to drop the battery/alternator voltage by -2 volts and today you are saying that extended the life of your BOOST solenoid. Is this correct?
Then in ~2010, Trombetta redesigned their "Bear" Boost Solenoid and raised the coil voltage to 15V and are now shipping silver contacts.
The Trombetta Part# 14-1211-020 and the "20" denotes silver contacts.
However, I see in the picture you posted that your 2008 Edition Trombetta uses the same part number. So can you elaborate a bit on the need to drop voltage? ...Did Trombetta redesign this part but keep the same part number?
Specifically, I can see where the point of adding a few resistors was great fix for the older Trombetta's, but does this fix still apply to newer Trombetta's?
Note: MrTransistor used 3 diodes to accomplish the same thing. (See picture below.)
WHAT ABOUT USING Ignition Condensers/Capacitors which only cost $5-$7?
==> I think this is overkill at this point, because one can argue adding diodes to the coil posts are overkill, but if they provide a few more years of service, and they are so cheap, then what's the downside?
ADDING REVERSE BIAS DIODES ACROSS THE COIL POSTS
So what's left to improve? I guess I would have to say adding a reverse bias diodes to the coil posts are a good idea -- if in fact these diodes to reduce the wear on the coil burning out inside. Does it is the question?
Here's the link to a $7 pack of thirty SR560 (DO-201AD) Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes, 5A 60V.
https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-Schott..._t3_B007Z7OQ5G
And because my BDS has one hot and 2 switched negative leads (at the Salesmand Switch) I will need to add 1 diode between "LJ" and "LG"... and 1 diode between "LJ" and "LH".
Note: My wiring diagram is probably not the same as your RV if your coach came with a BIRD System and/or has more than 2 solenoids.