F-53 Headlight Warning Buzzer (lack of)

[dkoldman]

I have always been annoyed that my 2019 29VE on F-53 did not have a buzzer in the event I left the headlights on and turned the headlights off.

The other day while in the garage I found this old headlight alarm that I must have had for a old car a long time ago. I verified it works.

I am looking for advice on best ( I should say simplest) way to install?

As I understand it, it needs the same 12v that the headlights have when ON and also somehow 12v from ignition? So when ignition is OFF and headlights are on it will buzz.

But I don't know which wires in a F-53 should connect to. Or even if I should use a Fuse box? Since this is all with Chassis, I don't believe the WBGO drawing are going to help.

[Morich]

Remember the way the mode solenoid or BIM are wired to a point called "ignition hot" ?
I have never gotten to the point of tracing that wire down from the Winnebago wiring to the chassis but there IS such a thing.!
The wire LR from the setup for using the solenoid or from the dash switch to "jump start" a weak chassis battery will go to one of those ignition hot connections!
Things that work only when the ignition is on will be connected and suspect points you might want to think about? Horn, wipers, radio?

Just random thoughts on finding it?
If you find a fuse box under the hood, that would seem to be a point that might be easy enough to sort out. If one found labels, that would be good but then if you put a voltmeter on some fuses and found there was no voltage there when ignition is off, could one find ignition hot by watching the meter to find one which goes hot when the key is turned to first step?

Pretty lame and admittedly home made!
But finding that point in a chassis manual might not be much easier either?
Did you get a chassis manual with the RV and might it have a layout for chassis fuses?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

Remember the way the mode solenoid or BIM are wired to a point called "ignition hot" ?
I have never gotten to the point of tracing that wire down from the Winnebago wiring to the chassis but there IS such a thing.!
The wire LR from the setup for using the solenoid or from the dash switch to "jump start" a weak chassis battery will go to one of those ignition hot connections!
Things that work only when the ignition is on will be connected and suspect points you might want to think about? Horn, wipers, radio?

Just random thoughts on finding it?
If you find a fuse box under the hood, that would seem to be a point that might be easy enough to sort out. If one found labels, that would be good but then if you put a voltmeter on some fuses and found there was no voltage there when ignition is off, could one find ignition hot by watching the meter to find one which goes hot when the key is turned to first step?

Pretty lame and admittedly home made!
But finding that point in a chassis manual might not be much easier either?
Did you get a chassis manual with the RV and might it have a layout for chassis fuses?

Yes, my RV came with 2019 F-53 Ford Chassis manual, but I believe the Dealer made a mistake and gave me the wrong one. I have 2019 29VE but I am pretty sure my Chassis is 2018.

The Fuse box underneath the steering wheel may feed the headlight switch, but thus far I have not been able to tell which fuse feeds that switch. Fuse #19 per 2019 diagram feed the daytime running lights but it shows no power when switch is OFF or ON.

I am attaching a picture of the Light alarm I have.

I think I need to find a wire coming out of the switch that will be Hot with 12v if the switch is set for Headlights to be ON.

If I can get that, I then need to do similar for accessory, but I think you are right I may find more options for 12v that turn ON/OFF with Accessory.

So frustrating that something that may cost WBGO $5 to do that it is not part of the coach. I promise if my stock fortunes ever reverse, I will buy WBGO and make it mandatory to have a Headlight alarm buzzer on every coach. Free retrofit kits for all RV owners registered with accurate information of WGBO Ownership.

[dkoldman]

Also to simplify my goal or quest...

I want the above pictured alarm to chime when headlights are ON and Ignition key is OFF.

I have never drained the battery but my chassis battery is 6 years old now. I could just leave my lights on Automatic, but there are times when I will manually turn safety etc. But if it is daylight outside, I may forget they are ON and walk away. I would prefer the alarm / chime go off as soon as I turn off the key because I may still be sitting and easy to turn lights off.

Update:
I was able to find the below...

Fuse #41 Instrument Cluster for Lights

Fuse #5 Accessory On/Off

I verified both showed 12v when Lights were manually turned to Park or On positions and when Key Also was OFF there was no voltage.

[dkoldman]

This problem is solved.

I have it working as I want. I was able to tap into Fuse #41 12v hot to the headlight alarm, Fuse #5 12v hot/ground. When #5 is Off 0vdc ( accessory switch off) and #41 is On 12vdc, it will buzz. Due to the diode the voltage only flows one way, so when both are hot 12vdc nothing happens.

I may get around to installing it professionally with it's own fuse such as below. I would need two of those wiring kits so it may be overkill for what I am doing. I may just leave well enough along.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bussmann-...oaArg1EALw_wcB

[Morich]

I might look at NOT adding new fuses but just let the existing fuse fo the item now work for both it and the alarm.
This is based on the idea that most fuses are not running that close to overload and blowing. That lets us add any small item like I might think this alarm, to the existing fuse without it blowing.

Maybe a bit of trying it for a bit to test that it doesn't blow the existing fuse with the new added load, before we totally trust it, but I think it worth the try for saving added potential for blown fuses and open, etc.

Suggest try it but keep in mind where and which circuit you added load to. Just in case something does blow you will remember to redo and add the extra fuse holders?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

I might look at NOT adding new fuses but just let the existing fuse fo the item now work for both it and the alarm.
This is based on the idea that most fuses are not running that close to overload and blowing. That lets us add any small item like I might think this alarm, to the existing fuse without it blowing.

Maybe a bit of trying it for a bit to test that it doesn't blow the existing fuse with the new added load, before we totally trust it, but I think it worth the try for saving added potential for blown fuses and open, etc.

Suggest try it but keep in mind where and which circuit you added load to. Just in case something does blow you will remember to redo and add the extra fuse holders?
Attachment 190394

Your drawing gives me pause because I did NOT verify exactly with the voltmeter which side was protected versus which was hot

I was so fixated on just finding the right fuses for the headlight / parking & the accessory On/Off? But if I recall it seems like both contacts on the leads would only show 12vdc when the switch was on? Same for accessory?

Is it possible that another fuse for both be upstream closer to the battery? i.e. under the hood?

With that said the wires I added; I chose the right side of the fuse, primarily because the female seat for the right side seem to be a little wider to support the wire and spade. The right side aligns with your drawing if there is such a standard for such things.

It really should never draw any current unless I leave the lights on, to which I will will always turn off in a few seconds.

I found fuse tap holders for a lot cheaper than what I saw at Wal Mart. I have in my Amazon cart for a possible future purchase when I order again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1NVVF7ZN&psc=1

I may do later just for neatness and to impress the Electrical Engineers. Some of us DIY'ers at least try If I do, I would put a 5 amp fuse on line to my Alarm / chime while retaining the same 10 amp fuse for the main incoming line from battery. I would do so on both fuse blocks although I believe the actual chime draw is only from the headlights block Fuse the #41.

[Morich]

The big idea is to make any excess current flow go through a fuse at some point. It may be fine for years when all goes well if we connect to the wrong side of the fuse.
But when we want it connected to the correct side is when something goes wrong. Maybe many years later but if the wire gets rubbed or pinched and lots of current flows through the wire we want the fuse to blow before the insulation melts on the wire!

In a house that can lead to burning down the house but in a car it can be less dramatic but if it melts down a bundle of other wires, that is bad enough!

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

The big idea is to make any excess current flow go through a fuse at some point. It may be fine for years when all goes well if we connect to the wrong side of the fuse.
But when we want it connected to the correct side is when something goes wrong. Maybe many years later but if the wire gets rubbed or pinched and lots of current flows through the wire we want the fuse to blow before the insulation melts on the wire!

In a house that can lead to burning down the house but in a car it can be less dramatic but if it melts down a bundle of other wires, that is bad enough!

Yeah, in hindsight, once I realized which fuses were hot with the switches, I should have took the fuse out to confirm which side was the hot side. In my case I assumed the left side as your drawing. I may be able to remove another fuse on that block that is hot, to see if it is hot on the left or the right leg of the fuse. I don't wish to remove the wire from fuse on chiming unless I know it is wrong or when / if I get the new Fuse Taps to make it professional.

The other thing that I could do, is simply add a fuse holder, or create my own fuse holder for the wires.

I still think there is a 2nd Fuse Block under the hood, so if current was on the back side of the fuse under the dash, it would blow the fuse that is closr to the actual battery.

[Morich]

Guessing but I would guess there is a fuse box under the hood which has only the automotive fuses with none of the RV fuses?
On the Ford chassis, it is often the easy box to spot but with a cover that is almost impossible to figure how to open it.
They put an arrow on the lid but it told me nothing about how to open the lid.
We had a saying about folks who could not get the lid open!

If you can't open the lid, maybe you shouldn't get inside?

[dkoldman]

As an abundance of precaution, I took the inside the RV Ford Chassis fuse box apart again where I had connected my Headlight chime. I verified my assumption and your drawing that the input 12vdc is coming in on the left side of the mounted fuse. My contact wires for both Fuse #41 and Fuse #5 were only touching the right pin of the fuse, so if Fuse is ever blown, there will be no power for the chime.

I did not bother with the Ford Fuse box under the Hood, although I am pretty sure sure that Fuse box feeds the one inside in some fashion.

FWIW,

I remember having a failed microwave. I was determined to get it opened to just see what was inside. Not only where they many no open on user serviceable parts inside labels all over the place, special tools were required, I had to tear it up but I finally got it opened

I bought a new microwave, but I did get a chance to eyeball that capacitor in the old unit that they were trying to protect me from myself from.