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Old 05-30-2021, 12:48 PM   #1
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Does alternator charge house batteries

2000 Suncruiser 35U, does anyone know if the engine alternator charges my house batteries while driving?
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Old 05-30-2021, 02:30 PM   #2
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Assuming all is working well, yes, the engine/start battery and alternator are connected to the coach batteries when the engine runs or the "boost" switch is pushed.

For a bit of background, this drawing shows what you should have. The green is the start battery and how it gets to the mode solenoid, when the blue lead is hot from the ignition or the boost switch, the solenoid is operated and the contacts inside close the big lugs on each side together, so that the coach and start power are connected.

One semi-easy way to verify it is working is to use a meter on the coach battery when it has been setting for a few hours and stable.
Do this test with the RV not connected to power to avoid confusion of seeing the power from the converter and shore power charging the coach batteries.

It should read something around 12.5 or more but then when you start the RV engine, that voltage should jump higher as the alternator power is connected. If somebody revs the engine while you watch the meter you can often see the reading go higher and lower as the engine speed changes.
Best to have the coach battery disconnect closed as it can change things on some RV.
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Old 05-30-2021, 02:40 PM   #3
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Thanks. I'll check it tomorrow.
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Old 06-01-2021, 07:45 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Morich View Post
Assuming all is working well, yes, the engine/start battery and alternator are connected to the coach batteries when the engine runs or the "boost" switch is pushed.

For a bit of background, this drawing shows what you should have. The green is the start battery and how it gets to the mode solenoid, when the blue lead is hot from the ignition or the boost switch, the solenoid is operated and the contacts inside close the big lugs on each side together, so that the coach and start power are connected.

One semi-easy way to verify it is working is to use a meter on the coach battery when it has been setting for a few hours and stable.
Do this test with the RV not connected to power to avoid confusion of seeing the power from the converter and shore power charging the coach batteries.

It should read something around 12.5 or more but then when you start the RV engine, that voltage should jump higher as the alternator power is connected. If somebody revs the engine while you watch the meter you can often see the reading go higher and lower as the engine speed changes.
Best to have the coach battery disconnect closed as it can change things on some RV.
Checked today, generator running charges house batteries, engine running does not
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Old 06-01-2021, 10:38 PM   #5
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Contrary to what most will tell you, not all Winnebago's came with a BIRD charging relay and IMO it's a good thing they did not, because it probably would have failed by now.

The solution to your alternator not charging your house batteries is to install a Keyline Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) that connects the positive battery terminal of the engine battery to the positive terminal of the house batttery... and that's it.

Of course it helps if your house batteries are in close proximity to your engine batteries. ...And I have been using the KeyLine VSR for over 5 years without any problems. I highly recommend it. Just order on Amazon from KeyLine and don't buy the knockoffs. ($85)

Note: You may want to use your own battery connections using 6-10 AWG.

Note: I also added a Victron Smart Battery Charger & Battery Maintainer and I use this as my main battery charger when I have shore power and when I put my RV in storage. Then I use the Dimensions 100A battery charger when I am using my generator for maximum/fast charges. Plus it is bluetooth capable so I can use my cell phone to monitor the power usage.
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Old 06-02-2021, 08:10 AM   #6
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When shore or genset AC power is there, the converter should charge the coach batteries but not the start battery. That sounds good!

Then there is the second system that most cars/trucks have where the engine running makes the alternator charge the start battery. I will assume that good as no complaints on starting?

But RV have two different methods to do two things with the batteries.

One is a switch on the dash often labeled either AUX or BOOST, which is a momentary switch which sends a signal down the small purple wire called LR. This 12VDC signal makes the mode solenoid pull the contacts together and connects the big lugs on each side together. When we look at the drawing, there is start battery on one side and coach battery on the other, so this solenoid is designed so we can "jump start" the engine using the coach batteries as temporary power until we let go of the switch!

A second method of using this solenoid is when we have the RV engine running, there is a circuit called "run only" which has 12VDC power on it and it sends the signal down to the solenoid and connects the two batteries together to get some charge back into the coach batteries while we drive! This one is in doubt so we need to test it!

One quick test is to hold a hand on the solenoid or listen carefully for the solenoid to move/thump/click when somebody pushes the aux Switch. Hearing this proves out the switch, wire, and that the solenoid is moving to close the contacts.
We can also do the same by feeling/listening as we start the engine but it is harder to hear/feel with all the big engine noise! Same type operation but we may not hear or feel it!

But we also have to be aware that the solenoid contacts moving to close doesn't always work as they take a real beating and often do get corroded or burned too much to actually make good contact. They can slap together but not actually make good contact?

I suggest trying to feel for movement using the switch or starting and then if we feel that, putting a meter on the battery cable going to the coach batteries should show a jump in voltage if the power is actually making good contact from one big lug to the other.

This is a chart to help ID the cables, handy IF the tape is still on the cables!
Basic idea is that you want the purple marked to connect through the solenoid to the yellow and then if that power doesn't get to the coach batteries, you need to check for good clean connections, etc.

If this is the first time this solenoid has failed on a 20 year old coach, I do not go far to improve on that lifespan! I'm okay with having to change a part every twenty years or so.
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Old 06-02-2021, 11:55 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
When shore or genset AC power is there, the converter should charge the coach batteries but not the start battery. That sounds good!


That works as it should


Then there is the second system that most cars/trucks have where the engine running makes the alternator charge the start battery. I will assume that good as no complaints on starting?



Never had any problems


But RV have two different methods to do two things with the batteries.

One is a switch on the dash often labeled either AUX or BOOST, which is a momentary switch which sends a signal down the small purple wire called LR. This 12VDC signal makes the mode solenoid pull the contacts together and connects the big lugs on each side together. When we look at the drawing, there is start battery on one side and coach battery on the other, so this solenoid is designed so we can "jump start" the engine using the coach batteries as temporary power until we let go of the switch!



Works as described.



A second method of using this solenoid is when we have the RV engine running, there is a circuit called "run only" which has 12VDC power on it and it sends the signal down to the solenoid and connects the two batteries together to get some charge back into the coach batteries while we drive! This one is in doubt so we need to test it!

One quick test is to hold a hand on the solenoid or listen carefully for the solenoid to move/thump/click when somebody pushes the aux Switch. Hearing this proves out the switch, wire, and that the solenoid is moving to close the contacts.
We can also do the same by feeling/listening as we start the engine but it is harder to hear/feel with all the big engine noise! Same type operation but we may not hear or feel it!

But we also have to be aware that the solenoid contacts moving to close doesn't always work as they take a real beating and often do get corroded or burned too much to actually make good contact. They can slap together but not actually make good contact?

I suggest trying to feel for movement using the switch or starting and then if we feel that, putting a meter on the battery cable going to the coach batteries should show a jump in voltage if the power is actually making good contact from one big lug to the other.

This is a chart to help ID the cables, handy IF the tape is still on the cables!
Basic idea is that you want the purple marked to connect through the solenoid to the yellow and then if that power doesn't get to the coach batteries, you need to check for good clean connections, etc.

If this is the first time this solenoid has failed on a 20 year old coach, I do not go far to improve on that lifespan! I'm okay with having to change a part every twenty years or so.
My mechanic is checking everything tomorrow while doing annual engine/trans/brake check. He's an experienced RV mechanic, been using him for past 15 years.
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Old 06-03-2021, 12:26 PM   #8
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This issue keeps coming up.

I know my 2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD was not wired so the engine alternator would charge my house batteries. This is well known, but maybe not all Winnebago circuit diagrams show enough detail so it's confusing.

The controversy seems to center around the "Boost Solenoid". Most owners seem to report, in their model RV, that the Boost Solenoid is "on" all the time.

And by "on" I mean the trigger comes from the BDS Solenoid (Salesman Switch), such that if the BDS is "on" then the Boost Solenoid coil is energized and "on" all the time. However, I don't believe that is the case in my 2004 Horizon. TBD.

Of course, like all solenoids, the high current side is only active "on" if the low current coil wires are connected to 12V and are grounded... so the coil pull on the magnet inside the solenoid (switch) and makes a high current connection.

To find out if my Boost Solenoid is "on" all the time, I plan to probe for voltage this week, and then I will let you know what I find, and if necessary I will update this schematic if need be. However, I think it is correct as-is for my 2004 Itasca Horizon 40AD.

Specifically, I will looking at "LR" and "MG" wires in the diagram below.

Moreover, it is my belief, my Boost solenoid is only "on" when I press my boost button on the dash to make a ground connection. Consequently, at this point, I believe my Boost solenoid is normally "off" and therefore there is no way the alternator can charge the house batteries when the engine is running... that is until I added the Keyline VSR to connect the engine battery to the house battery as shown in the threads above.

Note: Your RV wiring is probably different. I understand there were a few years 2003-2004 (mid-year) that did not come from the factory with the ability for the alternator to charge the house batteries; and I have no idea how many Winnebago coach models were affected.

PS
I believe Morich helped me understand how my BDS works, so if I am not diagraming it right below, please let me know.
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Old 06-03-2021, 02:02 PM   #9
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This issue keeps coming up.

I know my 2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD was not wired so the engine alternator would charge my house batteries. This is well known, but maybe not all Winnebago circuit diagrams show enough detail so it's confusing.

The controversy seems to center around the "Boost Solenoid". Most owners seem to report, in their model RV, that the Boost Solenoid is "on" all the time.

And by "on" I mean the trigger comes from the BDS Solenoid (Salesman Switch), such that if the BDS is "on" then the Boost Solenoid coil is energized and "on" all the time. However, I don't believe that is the case in my 2004 Horizon. TBD.

Of course, like all solenoids, the high current side is only active "on" if the low current coil wires are connected to 12V and are grounded... so the coil pull on the magnet inside the solenoid (switch) and makes a high current connection.

To find out if my Boost Solenoid is "on" all the time, I plan to probe for voltage this week, and then I will let you know what I find, and if necessary I will update this schematic if need be. However, I think it is correct as-is for my 2004 Itasca Horizon 40AD.

Specifically, I will looking at "LR" and "MG" wires in the diagram below.

Moreover, it is my belief, my Boost solenoid is only "on" when I press my boost button on the dash to make a ground connection. Consequently, at this point, I believe my Boost solenoid is normally "off" and therefore there is no way the alternator can charge the house batteries when the engine is running... that is until I added the Keyline VSR to connect the engine battery to the house battery as shown in the threads above.

Note: Your RV wiring is probably different. I understand there were a few years 2003-2004 (mid-year) that did not come from the factory with the ability for the alternator to charge the house batteries; and I have no idea how many Winnebago coach models were affected.

PS
I believe Morich helped me understand how my BDS works, so if I am not diagraming it right below, please let me know.
The problem I see with this diagram is that it may have too many shortcuts in the term Winnebago uses and they use different terms at different times and places. What they may use on labels on the RV may not match what is shown on drawings and then if we throw in a bit more confusion with terms the Rv users may have made up, things can get messy in a hurry!
The switch on the dash is labeled various ways as "boost, Aux, or other" , then the mode solenoid is often called by different names for different make, model and years.

That is where I like to follow the Winnebago info as much as possible so that we are able to speak of the same parts and know which we actually mean. Listing, showing or describing a different RV is not always going to be correct and then if we get into a few mistakes in what we call an item, it can snowball into real confusion.

A point to start it the LR wire which we can look on the wire ID chart to see the "from" and "to" locations. The ID chart says it goes from the battery mode switch or aux start switch( Depending on year, make, model, and how they were currently using the terms) but we know aux or boost labels were used at times. And the far end is listed as the battery mode or aux start solenoid.

As I understand it, this wire (LR) goes from the dash switch to the solenoid, not the disconnect switch! That leaves the coach battery disconnect switch not involved at all with operating the mode solenoid.

But it is also important to note that what we find on one RV is often not the same we find on others, so just no value in adding confusion when we look at two different RV.

Just as a point to question, why would there be a solenoid used if it is "on" all the time? Why not just drop the expense of a solenoid if we want it on full time?

I think a better idea is that the solenoid is used to connect the two battery strings together but only at specific times when we want them connected to do certain functions. If we want to give the start battery a boost, we use the dash switch, If we want the coach batteries to get a bit of charge while we drive, we let the ignition run circuit pull the solenoid and do it automatically!

Click this snip to get a better view to read? The Wire ID chart is here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

The last snip is what I find for the wiring at the solenoid on a 2004 Horizon 40AD and it doesn't show a connection of LR with the disconnect relay.
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Old 06-03-2021, 07:49 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
This issue keeps coming up.
...
The controversy seems to center around the "Boost Solenoid". Most owners seem to report, in their model RV, that the Boost Solenoid is "on" all the time.

And by "on" I mean the trigger comes from the BDS Solenoid (Salesman Switch), such that if the BDS is "on" then the Boost Solenoid coil is energized and "on" all the time. However, I don't believe that is the case in my 2004 Horizon. TBD.
....
I'm afraid you've still got this twisted around in your mind. The 'BDS Solenoid (Salesman Switch)' aka House Battery Disconnect Switch has NOTHING to do with the Boost Solenoid or the charging of the house batteries by the alternator! It connects/disconnects the house batteries from the house battery loads (or at least most of them).

The Boost Solenoid connects the house batteries with the chassis batteries when activated. It is activated momentarily by the dash 'Battery Boost' (or 'Aux Battery') switch via the wire labelled 'LR' which it connects to an always-on source of chassis power. When the dash switch is NOT being pressed it connects 'LR' to a source of run-only chassis power, thus causing the solenoid to be activated WHENEVER THE ENGINE IS RUNNING and therefore allowing the alternator to charge both banks of batteries. So the solenoid is NOT always ON, but only when the dash switch is pressed OR the engine is running.
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Old 06-03-2021, 10:04 PM   #11
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First I would like to thank both Morich and Cbeierl for all their efforts to help me understand my 12V Power Grid. And IMHO, I think I did creat a more complex and yet easier to understand 12V Power Grid vs. what Winnebago gives us to look at.

I mean, up to this point all we had to go on were wires that are labeled... and connect to... what exactly? So that is what I set out to fix.

However, if I labeled anything wrong then let's call my 12V Power Grid a "work in progress" and maybe by next week I will have a final draft that passes mustard with Morich and Cbeierl help? TBD.

I guess that depends on if you guys object to me trading on your good name? I hope you don't. I want to be accurate and I want to give credit where credit is due.

I also, have reviewed 10s, maybe 100's, of posts on this subject and no one ties everything together. And most certainly, this is the most complete diagram found on this forum and IRV2.com.

Therefore, I have to disagree that it adds more confusion to Winnebago's "mostly complete" diagrams that leave us all hanging and dependent, which does not fly for this DIYer.

To be certain, this diagram is only meant to accurately diagram my 2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD 12V Power Grid, but I hope it helps other people figure out their 12V power grid too. And frankly I think it is applicable to 90% of all Winnebago DP coaches from 2002-2011. (I would guess.)

=== Sharing Is Caring ===

So which one of you remember sharing the BDS diagram below I edited? And did I get the function of my BDS correct as best you can tell by comparing it to the Winnebago Diagrams and your knowledge on how the BDS is stwitched "on" and "off?"

Next week I will be verifying the wire connections when I start probing my solenoids for voltage and what happens when I turn "on" and "off" my BDS and push the "AUX BOOST" button on the dash.

Note: I already traced as best I could using the Winnebago Wire Labels Morich provided above, but all this is real confusing from Winnebago to begin with.

===

Cbeierl: Aren't you the one who installed two 1-ohm resistors on your Boost Solenoid Switch? ...Can you explain why you did this again? ...And if my edits are not correct can you set me straight? (See picture below.)
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Old 06-03-2021, 10:36 PM   #12
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...
Cbeierl: Aren't you the one who installed two 1-ohm resistors on your Boost Solenoid Switch? ...Can you explain why you did this again? ...And if my edits are not correct can you set me straight? (See picture below.)
Yes, that's my photo. The idea is that the solenoid isn't really happy with ~14.5V across its activation coil and the resistors (or diodes--see thread referenced below) will drop it back down closer to 12V and hopefully a longer life. (See this old thread: Yet another solenoid bites the dust!) After having two solenoids fail on me in the first three years of ownership (from new) the third time (in 2008) I replaced the solenoid with the silver contact version and added the dropping resistors in the coil circuit at the same time. That 3rd solenoid with the resistors is still working fine today, 13 years later.
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Old 06-03-2021, 11:00 PM   #13
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In your picture (above) of the two solenoids the wire labelled 'LR' does not (at least should not) go to the battery disconnect solenoid (on the right), but ONLY to the battery boost solenoid (on the left). The other end of that wire is connected to the Battery Boost switch on the dash. See the attached excerpt from the Chassis Wiring Installation diagram for your coach.
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Old 06-03-2021, 11:23 PM   #14
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Btw, the Body, 12 Volt Wiring Diagram for your coach also shows the wiring of these two solenoids.

This excerpt from the Automotive Wiring Diagram for your coach shows the wiring of the Battery Boost Switch on the dash. From the Wiring Identification Guide the three wires are:
LR / 14 YEL BATTERY MODE SWITCH (AUX START SWITCH) BATTERY MODE SOLENOID (AUX START SOLENOID)

LS / 12 YEL OVERCURRENT PROTECTION 20A BREAKER TYPICAL,COACH FEED GENERAL PURPOSE(BATTERY MODE, RADIO POWER,BATTERY CONDITION

JJX / 14 YEL RUN ONLY POWER RELAY GENERAL PURPOSE (RUN ONLY FEED)
In its resting state the switch connects JJX to LR. When momentarily depressed the switch connects LS to LR.
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Old 06-04-2021, 02:14 AM   #15
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Excellent. Thank you!

This information will help me verify things when I pull the cover off my solenoids next week and start probing around.

So you are not of the opinion your Boost Solenoid is "on" when the engine is running? ...Or do you think your Boost Solenoid is "on" when the engine is running?

I'm saying it's "off" all the time until you press the "Aux-Boost Switch" on the dash, which I think grounds the solenoid and activates the coil... momentarily... to connect the engine battery to the house battery.

That is the function after all. And if the Boost Solenoid is "off" when the engine is running there is no way for the alternator to charge the house batteries in my RV with the addition of a BIRD or in my case I used a Keyline VSR.

Note: I don't think I would be very happy with the BIRD or it's big brother or the TRIK-L-START device. But I can tell you I am very happy with the KeyLine VSR.
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Old 06-04-2021, 08:21 AM   #16
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Part of where I feel we get into confusion is when we try to look at too many functions at once. I'm experienced with looking at really complex equipment and one of the first things I have to do is sort out the real, main question that I want to figure---at that moment. Too much, too complex to grasp all at once but if I break the problem down into small segments and trace that one segment, I can handle it better.

That leaves me looking at this operation of the mode solenoid and battery disconnect switch as being two different segments and I want to figure one out before moving to looking/study of the other.

I find the mode solenoid is operated/on when the engine is running and evidence of this is the connect to the run part of the ignition. If it was not intended to be operated when the engine is running, what would be the purpose of that connection? No purpose in bringing a 12V power connection the the solenoid if not to operate it!

I'm sure the drawings do give lots of room for confusion as they are drawn in a way that I find confusing due to the way they separate chassis and coach wiring without giving us a handy way to refer from one to the other. I'm used to the big old paper charts that had to be laid out end to end on the floor at times, so we could see where one trace met the other! Computers are not good for understanding the big picture, whether it is a circuit or your doctor's appointments! If you can't see the next page you may not know about it?

The way we get the info on Wire LR is not clear that it has two connections near the dash and off the drawing where we often look, one to the boost/aux switch and also another to the engine run circuit! Two sources of power for the two different times we want the solenoid operated. The boost switch being a momentary operation only while we are pushing the switch, the other being more full time all the time the engine is running but not operated when we stop the engine.

But when we get into looking at different wiring on different RV, the mode solenoid is different on some. Many have only three wires connected, the two large wires to the batteries and one control or power feed from the dash area and then that power going through the internal coil of the solenoid gets to ground to operate as they have connected it internally to the metal body of the solenoid which is screwed to the metal RV frame! On these when we look for why the solenoid is not operating, we need to check the screw mount for good contact as it is part of the circuit!

BUT that is where your RV is different as it appears to have both a control power wire coming in as well as a ground wire going out to make the full circuit. So on looking at your RV, we would need to verify that the second wire is actually getting to a good ground as it replaces the function of the mounting screw.

A small but important point on the separate issue of how the battery disconnect switch works is that the relay the switch operates is of a different type than we see more often.
Since the purpose is to stop using battery power when the turn the switch off, we do not want it to be of the type which has to be powered to operate! So it is a "latching relay" as it uses momentary power to move the contact open or closed but then we turn loose of the switch and there is no power used to hold the contacts in the last position as there is a magnet setup to "latch" the operation.

You are correct in your drawing that there is no power to LG or LH when not pressing the disconnect switch, but that is what we want to avoid using battery full time while we used the disconnect switch to reduce the power load and we do need to be aware that the relay should stay latched.

I would not put tooooo much value on the drawing I made of the two coils for doing engage/disengage of the latching relay as I have not seen one and it that drawing is more theory on one way it could be done, more than actual eyes on. Basic idea is that one circuit moves the contacts to on, while another moves them off, whether it is on magnet on one center shaft or two, etc. is not something I've looked at to see. The important thing for us to know is that one circuit closes and lathes while the other opens and latches so that power is not used full time by this setup.
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Old 06-04-2021, 10:19 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
...
So you are not of the opinion your Boost Solenoid is "on" when the engine is running? ...Or do you think your Boost Solenoid is "on" when the engine is running?
...
The Boost Solenoid is 'on' when the engine is running because the Battery Boost switch on the dash in its resting state connects the solenoid activation line 'LR' with run-only power. When the engine is not running the solenoid is 'off' unless the Battery Boost switch is momentarily depressed.

If the the Battery Boost switch successfully activates the solenoid when depressed, but doesn't seem to be activating it when the engine is running you should check the run-only power lead to the switch ('JJX') and make sure that it is in fact supplying power when the engine is running and that it is connected to the switch.
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Old 06-04-2021, 11:01 PM   #18
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cbeierl: That's a very good summary. And I would like to think I finally understand how the trigger mechanism for the "Aux - Boost Solenoid" is supposed to work.

However, if as you say the boost solenoid is "active" or "on" when the engine is running, then the engine battery would be connected to my house battery... and the alternator would be charging both battery banks at the same time.

...But this is not the case in my 2004 Itasca Horizon 40AD. Therefore, I'm not 100% sure my solenoid wiring diagram in my RV is the same as your RV wiring diagram. TBD.

* And I'm not sure the Winnebago wiring diagram is correct for my 2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD? ...But I will verify it soon.

PLAN: Next week I will build a table and capture some Boost Solenoid and BDS coil voltage measurements with the engine off and with the engine running. Then everything will be more clear to me. So I will get back to you when I complete this test.

=== WHAT ABOUT THOSE TWO 1-OHM RESISTORS ===

Your explanation of the Aux-Boost-Solenoid being "on" when the engine is running explains why you used two 1-ohm resisters to lower the voltage by ~2V though the Boost Solenoid. I.e., the goal is to extend the life of the Trombetta Boost Solenoid which prior to ~2012 was burning up prematurely. So I do accept your reasoning.

Note: After ~2012 Trombetta redesigned the "Bear" Aux-Boost-Solenoid to withstand higher currents that were previously overheating the internal coil wires. ...But less current thru the coil is always a good thing and it reduces "fly back" voltage spikes to the Aux-Boost-Switch on the dash. So in theory adding two 1-ohm resistors in not really necessary anymore, but it still sounds like a good idea.

In fact, I picked up a package of 1-ohm resistors 2 months ago to duplicate your approach; and if in fact I find my Aux-Boost-Solenoid is "on" when the engine is running then I will add them.

However, as I have been saying, I will be surprised to find my Aux-Boost-Solenoid "on," because until I added the KeyLine VSR my house batteries were not getting charged by the alternator.

So I will post an update soon with my test results and verify Winnebago has correctly diagramed my two house solenoids. (TBD)
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Old 06-06-2021, 08:28 PM   #19
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Problems with charging house batteries from the alternator

Thanks for all the helpful info on the charging process. My 2011 Via 25Q quit charging from the alternator causing the house batteries to drain while traveling. The low voltage alarm panel created quite a scare until we finally figured out what was going on.
I wrote to Winnebago asking for a wiring diagram to trace out the circuits and have not had a response for over a month. Does anyone have a diagram for the Early Via's they can share? It would be great to know where to find the relays and to trace the wiring. I suspect it could be a bad relay because I also discovered the battery boost switch/relay is not working. I suspect this is all inter-related.
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Old 06-06-2021, 08:57 PM   #20
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We do not get the full blown schematics after the 2010 year so have to puzzle it together from various spots.
This is what they call the wiring "installation drawing for the 12 volt coach wiring.
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_175477.pdf

Combining this info on wire from it with the wire ID chart here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

We can see the standard issue of the control input voltage comes down from the dash area, either ignition run circuit or boost switch on wire LR to meet the ground which in this case is brought down on wire KKG from the bus bar.
This coil in the solenoid closed make the contact from large lug on each side where the two battery groups are connected.

Handy to note the tape on the battery cables to mark/ID which cable is which going to chassis or coach battery! Ignore my blue marking on the cable ID chart as it is left from a different post!

Also this drawing has the coach battery disconnect switch next to the solenoid but really has little to do with connecting the coach battery to alternator as it only functions to cut off part of the coach equipment from the coach battery supply.

Not the best drawings for wire trace but the best they give us for the 2012 year.
Click these snips to get a better view or go direct to the online drawing.
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