Do thermal 110/w waterhosess work in the winter?

Winnabango · 10-09-2011, 03:41 PM

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...Hose&x=15&y=12

Here is a link to what I'm fixing to buy. I would like to know if anyone has owned one, and if they have ever had problems with it. And also would wrapping insulation around it help at all?

dirko · 10-09-2011, 06:37 PM

Hi Ho: This would certainly keep the hose from freezing. The problem is that the hose bib where the hose is connected would still be unheated and would likely freeze. That is actually worse than the hose because being metal it would likely break and when it thaws would leak and require replacement. In cold weather it is necessary to remove the hose from the hose bib to avoid this problem. Many RV parks that get below freezing will hold the RV owner responsible if the hose is left connected overnight.

The best solution is just to fill the fresh water tank and then remove and drain the hose until it is needed again. An RV with heated basement and tanks will do ok to about 10 degrees or so if the heat is turned on. You may need a light globe or something similar in the water connection compartment.

Dirk

Dsouthw524 · 10-10-2011, 04:59 AM

Depending on the temps you are anticipating and the time period you anticipate, you could just buy some thermostaticaally controlled cable that wraps around the hose much cheaper.

Many trailer homes use them and twist tye the cable to their hookups and then put cheap foam pipe insulation over both to reduce electrical use and be more efficient. The heat tape can also be wrapped around the bib if that is a concern.

BCooke · 10-10-2011, 04:59 AM

I am in PA and most of the year round CGs around here have heat tape around the hose bins. People that camp in the 'off' season will also use larger household water pipe insulation around their water hose, along with heat tape.

wa8yxm · 10-10-2011, 09:37 AM

Do they work: YES,, to a point,, what that point is I don't know. There are several "Schemes" for doing basically the same thing. if that hose is what I think it is (Page not found in my case) it is very expensive.. you can take a common fresh water hose, and shove it through a "Fun noodle" From your favorite major or dollar store, and shove a single strand of heat tape in with it (if you have extra heat tape pull it out near the female end of the hose and wrap it around the park pipe) NOTE: do not wrap the hose, just pull straight through.

What I did: Temps where I over winter do not often drop below 20, in fact I've never seen 20, (25 yes) I took a string or ROPE lights, you know, like some folks lay around their rig to show off, duct taped it to a fresh water hose with Tye-Dye duct tape (Colorful) and plug it in.. Kept the hose from freezing,, Did nothing for the park however.

Finally, for other reasons, I hit on an even better plan.. I still use the light up hose in the winter but in addition I fill the fresh tank on the RV.. This lets the excess cholorine the city puts in the water there fade away before I drink it (YIPPIE) and, of course, heated tanks on the coach do not freeze above 20 either.

OF course at -six.. They freeze. quite solid I might add (That was a few years back when I went somewhere .... Else... for the winter.. Weather guessor man said "19 tonight" forgot the minus sign he did)

Winnabango · 10-10-2011, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

Do they work: YES,, to a point,, what that point is I don't know. There are several "Schemes" for doing basically the same thing. if that hose is what I think it is (Page not found in my case) it is very expensive.. you can take a common fresh water hose, and shove it through a "Fun noodle" From your favorite major or dollar store, and shove a single strand of heat tape in with it (if you have extra heat tape pull it out near the female end of the hose and wrap it around the park pipe) NOTE: do not wrap the hose, just pull straight through.

What I did: Temps where I over winter do not often drop below 20, in fact I've never seen 20, (25 yes) I took a string or ROPE lights, you know, like some folks lay around their rig to show off, duct taped it to a fresh water hose with Tye-Dye duct tape (Colorful) and plug it in.. Kept the hose from freezing,, Did nothing for the park however.

Finally, for other reasons, I hit on an even better plan.. I still use the light up hose in the winter but in addition I fill the fresh tank on the RV.. This lets the excess cholorine the city puts in the water there fade away before I drink it (YIPPIE) and, of course, heated tanks on the coach do not freeze above 20 either.

OF course at -six.. They freeze. quite solid I might add (That was a few years back when I went somewhere .... Else... for the winter.. Weather guessor man said "19 tonight" forgot the minus sign he did)

In order to see the link, you have to click on where it says "continue with external link."

Winnabango · 10-10-2011, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirko

Hi Ho: This would certainly keep the hose from freezing. The problem is that the hose bib where the hose is connected would still be unheated and would likely freeze. That is actually worse than the hose because being metal it would likely break and when it thaws would leak and require replacement. In cold weather it is necessary to remove the hose from the hose bib to avoid this problem. Many RV parks that get below freezing will hold the RV owner responsible if the hose is left connected overnight.

The best solution is just to fill the fresh water tank and then remove and drain the hose until it is needed again. An RV with heated basement and tanks will do ok to about 10 degrees or so if the heat is turned on. You may need a light globe or something similar in the water connection compartment.

Dirk

Well as you can see from the reviews the customers, that's exactly what they did. They removed it once they've done so. But then they say, "Well if that's the case then why do I need to buy this at all when a regular one can do the same?"

As for the bib, won't wrapping insulation around that work too?

John Hilley · 10-10-2011, 08:04 PM

Be very careful and install per directions. I have never seen any heating tape that you could put directly on hose, most are rated only for metal and plastic pipe. Plastic pipe usually require wrapping with fiberglass insulation and aluminum tape before applying the heating tape. Make sure you don't wrap more turns per foot than specified and make sure not to over lap the heat tape. Many fires are caused by misuse of heat tape where I live in North Dakota.

dirko · 10-12-2011, 11:19 AM

Hi Ho: Wrapping insulation around the hose bib will help IF: the average temperature isn't too cold. Insulation doesn't add heat, but it does increase the time required for a temperature change to occur. I have found it convenient to consider the average temperature. If the average temperature is below freezing, no amount of insulation will help....The temperature of whatever is insulated will ultimately also be below freezing.

Paractically speaking, for temperatures a few degrees below freezing insulation will probably do the job. If daytime temperatures are 40 deg. and nighttime temperatures are 20 degrees, forget it.

Always-RVing · 10-12-2011, 11:45 AM

Check this thread: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f59/rv-wa...ng-102642.html

RJay · 10-12-2011, 12:07 PM

I use this water pipe heating cable with good results and I'll be using it again this winter. It's available at either Lowes or Home Depot and of course Ace.

ArmyEOD · 10-12-2011, 12:10 PM

I went the cheap way myself. I purchased a heat tape at Lowes (15 Footer with 24 inch plug in cord) I have a 12 Ft water hose that works in most every park I have stayed in. I used high temp electrical tape (lowes) and working from the male connector I began laying the heat tape and taping it at 1 ft intervals down the length of the hose working to the female end. This left me 3+/- feet of heat tape. I then used 3/4 split form pipe insulation and taped it in place with duct tape. I use the left over 3 ft of heat strip to put on the camp ground faucet/pipe. I then run an ext cord from the camp ground (GFIC) 110v plug in the power box to inside my water bay where I have the heat strip plug in located. I have a hook in the top of the bay to secure the plug connection up high in the bay in case of any leaks. I have used the same set up for three years now coldest was last winter in VA where it got into the single digits a time or two and I have had no problems. By the way it only comes on when the temp gets around 30 or so. Hope this helps you out. Total set-up 30.00 bucks. The strips also come in 20 and 25 ft maybe longer.