Disappearing TV removal

[Mtn Charlie]

I own a 2012 Itasca Suncruiser 37F. The front 40" TV is mounted on an elevator systems that stores the TV in the hutch behind the dining room table. My TV is a Samsung, with an intermittent problem. I would like to remove it to make repairs. It is mounted to the elevator mechanism bracket with 4 screws. There is not sufficient room to get any type of screwdriver in there to remove the screws. If they were hex head bolts instead of Philips head screws, a small ratchet might work. (I might have just answered my own question) I'll try a screwdriver bit in a 1/4" socket.
I would still appreciate comments from anyone who might have dealt with this in the past.

[Morich]

I've not done it there but several other places, this little gizmo has been worth a million several times!

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...RoCkkcQAvD_BwE

[Mtn Charlie]

Thanks! That looks like exactly what I need. Better than a regular ratchet because the little wheel on the back allows you to start the screw.

[Morich]

Harbor Freight is good for things that may be cheap enough to use one time and then throw away but they do save a bunch if they work, even one time!

I had a screw that was behind a sidewall and I got it started out with this but then it was too long to come fully out, so I just quit and found the problem in another spot!

[Mtn Charlie]

I've managed to solve my problem and will post it here to help others. When the TV is in the full up position, it is impossible to look down on it from the top. However if the TV is only raised 1/2 way, you can look down on it from the top. From the side, you can see that the TV is hung on 2 fingers. (One circled in red.) But in cannot simply be lifted off of the fingers. Looking down from the top, you can see two screws that are screwed into 2 horizontal plates. (Circled in yellow.) So, raise TV half way, remove the 2 screws and then raise the TV completely and lift it off of the fingers.
Edit: The bracket can be easily removed from the TV once it is dismounted.

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Mtn Charlie

I've managed to solve my problem and will post it here to help others.

Thank you!

I’ve not really needed to remove mine yet, but two years ago it was squeaking terribly when driving (in down position) and it took me many attempts to figure out what exactly was the culprit. At that time I wanted to remove it but couldn’t see how to do it.

I stopped the squeak by wedging a piece of plastic between the two things you’ve circled in red.

But it’s only a matter of time before I will need to change out that TV, no doubt. It’s a bottom of the line Samsung and over 5-yrs old at that.

[Mtn Charlie]

If yours was squeaking, I would suspect that the two screws might have come loose. You might try raising the TV half way up and tightening the screws.

[Mtn Charlie]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Thank you!

But it’s only a matter of time before I will need to change out that TV, no doubt. It’s a bottom of the line Samsung and over 5-yrs old at that.

If you ever have to replace the TV, don't expect a plug and play. I'm having to replace mine and I found out that ALL 43 inch TVs manufactured in the past 2 years are 4k resolution. 4k TVs no longer use AV/RCA connectors. They only use HDMI because AV/RCA won't support 4k.

Another problem is that the mounting bracket is designed specifically for that Samsung TV. It has the standard 200mm mounting screw spacing but covers most of the back of the TV. The screw spacing is standardized but there is no standard to cable connection locations. As a result the bracket will cover the locations of most other TVs connectors. The photo shows the modifications that I had to make to the bracket to work with my new TV. Another problem is that new 43 inch TVs are so much lighter that some manufacturers have changed to the 100 mm mounting standard, which the bracket doesn't support, although it could be drill to the 100 mm standard.

[creativepart]

No worries there. Everything in my system is HDMI cabled. In fact, I don't have any component connections in any of my gear - thank goodness.

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Mtn Charlie

If yours was squeaking, I would suspect that the two screws might have come loose. You might try raising the TV half way up and tightening the screws.

You nailed it exactly. After I saw your post above I checked and both of those screws were very loose. I didn't remove the shims I put in place to stop the squeaking - no need to risk that - but I don't doubt that was the issue from the beginning.

Thanks!

[Jakm]

Guess I’m a little late to the party as I imagine you’ve already accomplished your change over, but I’ll add my 2 cents for future reference.
My 2011 had the original heavy weight Jensen with RCA connectors. I found and replaced it with a much lighter and thinner 43” Phillips Smart tv. I just used strapping bent to move the tv forward for adequate clearance in the opening.The tv had composite video and audio inputs that allowed me to input the feed Component cables from the switch multiplexer above the passenger seat. The only output choice was either hdmi or optical. I found a converter to use the optical output of the tv to the existing rca connectors feeding the speaker system. I also added a Bluetooth transmitter inline on the optical output.
The problem I encountered was due to the lighter weight of the tv, the lift would bind when retracting. I assume you have the same 3 stage lift, at the time I’d found very limited information on the lift and manufacturer. On mine the first stage mounted to the floor uses twin motors and jack screws to lift the second stage. The third stage that the tv mounts to is lifted by a strap fastened to the first stage and runs over a set rollers mounted on the second stage and then attached to the 3rd stage lifting it as the 2nd stage rises. When retracting the screws retract the 2nd stage and the 3rd just uses gravity to fall. Due to the lighter weight of the new TV the 3rd stage would bind at about 4” of full retraction and the strap would push up past the rollers on the second stage adding to the problem. There are little plastic inserts that are used to separate the stages from being metal on metal. Unable to adjust those little guides I just keep a good coat of silicone on things to keep things running smoothly. I’d read a couple posts of guys who had that riser strap fray and break on them so I don’t want to deal with that.

[fyreplug]

If I may ask here, not regarding the removal, but the connection from the King Jack antenna to the TV. Never having to deal with this setup before, I turned on the King Jack and got all the bars to light green. Turned on the TV and put the channel setup on antenna. Ran the search and received nothing. There are cables connected on back of TV but no incoming signal. What am I missing that I need to find, change or connect. And yes, not very much room behind TV to accomplish anything.
Forgot ... 2014 Itasca Suncruiser 37F
Thanks

[Mtn Charlie]

The number of connections behind that TV is rediculous. If you are referring to your satellite dish, it setup/connection is probably aux/cable and not antenna.

[fyreplug]

No, I'm referring to the actual connection from the King Jack antenna on top of the motorhome to the TV.

[Jakm]

I’m guessing you’re trying to receive over the air tv signal? If that’s the case, mine has the antenna amplifier in the overhead above the passenger seat. It resembles a switch plate with a little button and a light on it. Try that.

[fyreplug]

The antenna amplifier actually turns on the King Jack antenna. So it was on also. Next???

[fyreplug]

Well, got the TV in the living area to finally work. I fiddled with the King Jack antenna and the TV was able to scan channels.

Yippee - another mystery solved.

[Morich]

Originally Posted by fyreplug

Well, got the TV in the living area to finally work. I fiddled with the King Jack antenna and the TV was able to scan channels.

Yippee - another mystery solved.

Sounds like I'm late with this but there is some info which may help to sort Tv connections here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_110138.pdf

It is a generic list of various ways different Rv that have different numbers of items canbe wired for coax. By looking through the various diagrams to sort down to which closest matches your Rv, you can get some good info.

Example?
Click to get a better view or go direct.


IF this were the way your specifc RV was built, there are tape markers on the ends of coax to match the drawing. That can help sort which goes to what next item?
Also this may give you a shot at finding those items like splitters which may hide in all kinds of places:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_181229.pdf

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Mtn Charlie

If you ever have to replace the TV, don't expect a plug and play. I'm having to replace mine and I found out that ALL 43 inch TVs manufactured in the past 2 years are 4k resolution. 4k TVs no longer use AV/RCA connectors. They only use HDMI because AV/RCA won't support 4k.

Another problem is that the mounting bracket is designed specifically for that Samsung TV. It has the standard 200mm mounting screw spacing but covers most of the back of the TV. The screw spacing is standardized but there is no standard to cable connection locations. As a result the bracket will cover the locations of most other TVs connectors. The photo shows the modifications that I had to make to the bracket to work with my new TV. Another problem is that new 43 inch TVs are so much lighter that some manufacturers have changed to the 100 mm mounting standard, which the bracket doesn't support, although it could be drill to the 100 mm standard.

I just purchased a Toshiba 43" fire tv to replace the original Samsung living room tv. FWIW, it is 4K, UHD and has AV input connections. The problems I found are that the existing backplate for the cabinet lift does not bolt up as with the Samsung. It appears to be built specifically for the Samsung and has no provision to adapt to anything else. I was only able to get two screws to align.

It also covers the entire back of the new tv with no access to the AV inputs and very limited access to the power source and HDMI ports. I had to remove the plate, install the cords and reinstall the plate. I think it's fine as is for now, but I want to get this all corrected and bolted properly before traveling next month.

I don't see a manufacturer label on the lift, so I guess I will check with WBGO if no one here knows who it might be. I'd like to check with them to see if they make adapters that would work with the existing plate or preferably, a new adjustable backplate. Otherwise, I guess I'll have to make a template of the new tv and have the existing backplate modified.

Thanks for any input!

[R2D2]

I found out that Winnebago makes there own lift. The only plates they make are specific to the tv's they use. So I will have to modify the plate to fit the new tv, since there doesn't appear to be a universal mount that I can find online.