Dead Zamp? after house battery replacement

Americanrascal · 12-29-2020, 05:04 PM

Just installed 4 new house batteries on our 2016 Adventurer 38Q. All went well and marked cables to assure proper reinstallation. All fired up and works well after the install except the Zamp Solar Charge Controller. Panel started with a read showing b01 code which implies no connection to batteries. I never found a connection to the batteries for the Zamp. I went back over everything and now the controller is dead with no reading.

Need help -- I'm dumb as a brick on this lectrik stuff. Thanks

Joe

signet63 · 12-29-2020, 05:35 PM

Get a multi meter and check each connection. I have had problems with the zamp solar connections not making a connection. I am slow and took me awhile to figure this out.

Bill

Winterbagoal · 12-29-2020, 07:23 PM

If that fails to resolve the problem, you could try the reset procedure for the solar charge controller, described in this thread.
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...er-356239.html
It does sound like a wiring or fuse/breaker problem, though. When you replaced the batteries, did you short them accidentally at all? Even just for a second might have blown a fuse or tripped a breaker. It happens.

Americanrascal · 12-30-2020, 05:50 AM

Good info shared here! Many thanks. I probably knocked the Zamp off line somehow and then contributed to the problem by having a rag top cover over the rig and the solar panels so no juice is coming down the line.

Looks like I need to check the fuses and go through a reset after I pull the cover off so some light can hit the panel.

I was worried that I had missed some connection when I set the new batteries, but I could not find any connections that I missed. I still can't for the life of me trace down where the Zamp contributes charge power to the battery bank-- unless somehow its wired into the Magnum inverter. The schematics on the 'bago site didn't help me (plus I am dumb as a brick on eeelektrik stuff)

Many thanks for the good info here!!!

DavidM · 12-30-2020, 07:35 AM

Most, maybe all solar controllers are powered by the batteries, not the solar panels. Take the Zamp off of the panel and measure the voltage at the back terminals. You probably have none and that is why you are getting that error.

Then trace it back to the batteries and see where you have an open connection. FWIW as you surmise the solar controller could be wired to the inverter DC input, so check the voltage there. Does the inverter work?

David

**creativepart** · 12-30-2020, 08:38 AM

Your Zamp controller was directly connected to your batteries. There should be two 8 ga wires, one black (pos) and one green (neg) running directly from the Zamp Controller to the batteries with no fuse or anything in between.

I have a year newer Adventurer but the 37F model. On my RV the Zamp Controller is in the basement compartment in front of the entry steps. The batteries are located directly across the coach from that compartment. The wiring just runs from the controller across the coach to the batteries. The wiring is in a black plastic sheath.

DavidM · 12-30-2020, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

Your Zamp controller was directly connected to your batteries. There should be two 8 ga wires, one black (pos) and one green (neg) running directly from the Zamp Controller to the batteries with no fuse or anything in between.

That being the case, when you get it sorted out, put a fuse in the pos wire near the battery. It is unconscionable that Thor installed it unfused.

David

**creativepart** · 12-30-2020, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidM

It is unconscionable that Thor installed it unfused.

Errrrr... David, this is the Winnebago website.

I could be wrong about the fusing. The wiring from the solar controller is behind a panel behind the controller. Inside that panel are all of the battery cutoff and charging solenoids and a circuit breaker subpanel. That subpanel does have a Solar circuit breaker (WBGO uses push button resettable circuit breakers not individual automotive fuses). The black and green wires come out of the controller.... AND identical black and green wires cross under the chassis to the battery compartment. But I have not verified that they don't first stop at a circuit breaker in that subpanel.

The subpanel has about fortyeleven million wires and tracing them in all that mess is pretty daunting to near impossible.

DavidM · 12-30-2020, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

Errrrr... David, this is the Winnebago website.

S*&%.

I follow three RV sites: Thor (since I am expecting delivery in a few months of an Axis 24.1), this one, because of all of the great people who post here, and IRV2, which covers a lot of sins.

Sorry, I forgot where I was!!!

FWIW that breaker if it exists needs to be very close (the boating standards say 6") to the battery to be effective at preventing fires due to a shorted wire.

David

Americanrascal · 12-30-2020, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

Errrrr... David, this is the Winnebago website.

I could be wrong about the fusing. The wiring from the solar controller is behind a panel behind the controller. Inside that panel are all of the battery cutoff and charging solenoids and a circuit breaker subpanel. That subpanel does have a Solar circuit breaker (WBGO uses push button resettable circuit breakers not individual automotive fuses). The black and green wires come out of the controller.... AND identical black and green wires cross under the chassis to the battery compartment. But I have not verified that they don't first stop at a circuit breaker in that subpanel.

The subpanel has about fortyeleven million wires and tracing them in all that mess is pretty daunting to near impossible.

Thanks for the follow up Creativepart. The panel on the '16 38Q is pass side second compartment wall . All electric systems are located there (inverter, Zamp Controller, breaker panel, cut off master switch) The battery box is the next compartment back on the pass side. I was just out at the rig and it was displaying nothing on the screen, but I had a yellow and red led on the battery side that indicated low voltage. The b06 signal no longer appears but neither does anything else on the Zamp display. Then it would stop the display altogether. And to make it more interesting its whistling.

I have looked all over and there are no unconnected wires i missed in the re-install of the batteries. The only odd wire seemed to be associated with the Magnum inverter and I re-installed and marked that properly

All other internal meter displays show the inverter is working applying the proper level of charge. Batteries are at 13.6 V on float.

I attempted to disengage the circuit breaker labeled for the solar panels (and Zamp I presume?) but its not budging as its pushed in and holding.

I wonder if I would get any signal at all if a fuse or breaker was out? With the exception of the whistling sound the panel seems to reflect "At night no charge" as listed on the Operation LED page. That may be correct as its getting dark here at 5:40 and I have the cover over the roof and sides of the rig.

I am ready to dig deeper into this and try the hard reboot. But as I have the rig covered and do not want to remove the cover at this time to expose the solar panel I probably can't do the hard reboot as stated in the instructions sent in this thread. So I guess I'll have to wait until I can get a good warm dry day I can pull the dad blamed cover off to do this.

I really appreciate the feedback

Joe

Winterbagoal · 12-30-2020, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidM

S*&%.

I follow three RV sites: Thor (since I am expecting delivery in a few months of an Axis 24.1), this one, because of all of the great people who post here, and IRV2, which covers a lot of sins.

Sorry, I forgot where I was!!!

FWIW that breaker if it exists needs to be very close (the boating standards say 6") to the battery to be effective at preventing fires due to a shorted wire.

David

The 24.1 was the only model we liked, when we were looking at them a few years back. We've always like the split twin beds in the rear with the option to make it into a King. At the time they were being built on the E350 chassis, which we felt was a little too lightweight for the motorhome. I think they upped it to the E450 after a year or two, but we already bought our Sunstart 26HE, which didn't work out, and then ordered the Navion.
Hope it works out for you.
(p.s. first mod - insulate doghouse for heat and sound.)

Americanrascal · 01-02-2021, 07:10 AM

Well the never ending story of me "eating crow" continues. I have a full load of feathers in my mouth.

As a good DYI RV owner repair dude does- I always take pictures of whatever I disassemble before I start a job. I did so with the 4 house battery change out on this project. I wanted to be absolutely sure to reconnect all wires properly on the new battery install.

Being as smart as I thought I was in my developing old age- I was convinced I could rewire the spaghetti like assembly from memory. WRONG. After days of handwringing, posting threads like this begging for help, and preparing to totally disassemble the entire motorhome from the tires to the roof top to search for and solve the problem of the apparently deceased Zamp, I--- on whim-- happened to look at the pictures I had taken. That's when I had the epiphany- the one non battery cable type that was to be reconnected--- I had applied to the wrong battery post. It was to go to the negative terminal and not the positive terminal!

I guess I am now ready for my brain transplant and will try to remember (good luck with that) in future projects to actually use the preliminary pictures I take of a repair project!

Sorry to pester you all with a false alarm- but many thanks for the great responses.

Joe

PS The Zamp controller fired up immediately and works great! No reboot needed.

Joe

**creativepart** · 01-02-2021, 07:55 AM

Glad you have it sorted. We all do it. It’s the end result that matters. Lessons are learned... and relearned as many times as necessary.

Winterbagoal · 01-02-2021, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

Glad you have it sorted. We all do it. It’s the end result that matters. Lessons are learned... and relearned as many times as necessary.

X2, thanks for posting up your solution.
And, for mentioning another very important DIY procedure. If you're going to take something apart, take good pictures of everything before you begin, and during the disassembly. It may save you a whack of time and frustration when you reassemble things.

HappiHenri · 01-03-2021, 08:45 PM

(1) Most solar installs have (or they should have if done properly) a breaker or fuse between the solar controller and batteries. I would try and locate that 1st to check.

(2) All solar controllers work off of battery power - not the solar panels. Most seem to indicate that in use that the battery connection MUST be made 1st - before connecting solar panels. So when you disconnected your old batteries it is likely that you only had a solar connection - which may have damaged the controller.

(3) As others have correctly suggested - get a multi-meter and check your wiring. See what voltages you are getting at the solar controller connections 1st.

Winterbagoal · 01-03-2021, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HappiHenri

(1) Most solar installs have (or they should have if done properly) a breaker or fuse between the solar controller and batteries. I would try and locate that 1st to check.

(2) All solar controllers work off of battery power - not the solar panels. Most seem to indicate that in use that the battery connection MUST be made 1st - before connecting solar panels. So when you disconnected your old batteries it is likely that you only had a solar connection - which may have damaged the controller.

(3) As others have correctly suggested - get a multi-meter and check your wiring. See what voltages you are getting at the solar controller connections 1st.

FYI, the OP has figured it out, and fixed it. See post #12.

puttin · 01-04-2021, 06:35 AM

Americanrascal,

Your last post was hilarious and I'm glad you found the problem. I've had similar experiences.

Americanrascal · 01-04-2021, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by puttin

Americanrascal,

Your last post was hilarious and I'm glad you found the problem. I've had similar experiences.

I am finally learning how smart I really am. Appears there's not much gray matter left to work with LOL

Brave04 · 01-04-2021, 03:10 PM

I replaced my old Batteries and i don't think they are hooked up right. Do the deep 6 batteries run in series? i didn't take a picture of them prior to removal.

new owner of the rig, moved up from a travel trailer. any pictures would help

Americanrascal · 01-05-2021, 04:38 AM

I'll be glad to pass along my pics but they are not very well done as the compartment is dark and unlit. I'm attaching a diagram I found instead.

What model rig do you have as WBGO has numerous battery bank set ups depending on rig size and load demand???

Do you have a 4 battery 12v set up and how many of each? Mine is 4- 12 v batteries

I believe the proper set up for a 12 volt battery set up is parallel , but a 6 volt is series and parallel?