Converter? 2008 outlook 31C - Page 2

**creativepart** · 08-28-2021, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Banjo

Batteries are new 27dc marine deep cycle

OK, so they are new. Just be sure that they are both good. It's not unheard of that a new battery goes bad.

Also, this is not related to your issue but just as an FYI - don't fall for the "Marine Deep Cycle" that's a dual purpose battery created for small fishing boats. It's used to start outboard motors (so it's got a fairly high CCA cold cranking amps number) and it's also "deep cycle" enough for powering an electric trolling motor.

It's not a true deep cycle battery for RV House battery use. A true deep cycle is made to put out it's power in longer stretches than an engine starting battery, which only puts out max power for a few seconds.

These dual purpose batteries don't provide a lot of usable amps and they generally don't last very long in this application either. The best feature is their low price and they are available everywhere.

You find them on smaller travel trailers installed by the dealer to save money so they get known as Marine/RV batteries.

Where a good true deep cycle 12v 100ah battery may cost $250 to $300, a dual purpose "Marine/RV" battery may not list it's amp hour rating, just it's cold cranking amps (CCA) and cost $95.

You get what you pay for.

Morich · 08-28-2021, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

OK, so they are new. Just be sure that they are both good. It's not unheard of that a new battery goes bad.

Also, this is not related to your issue but just as an FYI - don't fall for the "Marine Deep Cycle" that's a dual purpose battery created for small fishing boats. It's used to start outboard motors (so it's got a fairly high CCA cold cranking amps number) and it's also "deep cycle" enough for powering an electric trolling motor.

It's not a true deep cycle battery for RV House battery use. A true deep cycle is made to put out it's power in longer stretches than an engine starting battery, which only puts out max power for a few seconds.

These dual purpose batteries don't provide a lot of usable amps and they generally don't last very long in this application either. The best feature is their low price and they are available everywhere.

You find them on smaller travel trailers installed by the dealer to save money so they get known as Marine/RV batteries.

Where a good true deep cycle 12v 100ah battery may cost $250 to $300, a dual purpose "Marine/RV" battery may not list it's amp hour rating, just it's cold cranking amps (CCA) and cost $95.

You get what you pay for.

I feel this is totally correct and it does point to what we need to do if we want the longest/best use of the batteries for camping without hookups.
But that also makes it worthwhile to look at how we each use the RV and that can change the battery type which is going to give each of us the best use.

We all have different camping styles and that leads to different needs for battery use. If you want/need longer/ deeper cycle batteries, go for true deep cycle which cost more.

But in many cases, like what we do, there is no need for the more expensive true deep cycle batteries. When we travel the coach batteries are charging as we drive and most of the time they are nearly topped off when we pull into a site and plug into power. We do not go for sites without power and water, so paying for longer use of deep cycle batteries is not worth much for us as the only use they get is for small power uses like the water pump or vent fan for a few minutes when we stop to change drivers and want a potty break!

If we do a longer stop like for lunch the batteries are good enough for the short stops and we also often find it is hot and we run the genset while stopped for lunch as we often do something in the microwave and that means the converter kicks in to keep the batteries up!

So looking at how you travel and what you do with the RV can lead to less expense and just as good use of the cheap ones if you don't need the more expensive.

Part of the thinking has to involve what level of "roughing it" you want? We did the tent, tent camper, truck camper, trailer and motorhome lifestyle changes and now find living without truly adequate running water and fully functioning electrical is just not going to be fun any more, so we go for low level battery use!

DavidM · 08-28-2021, 01:06 PM

Since I have the two of you in back to back posts, let me pose a couple of related questions:

1. How can you really know if a FLA battery is true deep cycle without using it for 5+ years or taking it apart and seeing how it is built? I realize that there are external indications like an Ah rating and of course filler caps. Beyond that?

2, Are virtually all AGM batteries suitable for true deep cycle use? If not, same question as above.

David

Morich · 08-28-2021, 04:10 PM

Good question!!
But I have to admit that I never really questioned it as most of my battery experience was before the wide use of AGM and most of the time the batteries were sent or installed before I got involved. Kind of work with what's there, without asking why?

Looking at why I might personally buy one over another, it does get less firm in my mind!

But ass mentioned above, I have not needed the true value of the deeper cycle and have just gone with the ease of marine start for the coach batteries.

If going out to search for one at this point, I would likely go with the idea of finding the largest amp hour that was listed as deep cycle and that would fit my space.
But that does leave some question what to use if one were building a solar group in a shed where space was not the primary item that we often have in an RV, so I would have to rethink and question the idea more.

I guess I have gone with the idea of the seller telling me what they are best for doing and then only doing a minimal amount of design questions???

DavidM · 08-28-2021, 04:56 PM

With some exceptions, I would never trust a manufacturer's statement that theirs is a real deep cycle battery. I have seen too many deep cycle batteries with no Ah rating and only a CCA rating. That tells it all doesn't it?

The exceptions are Trojan, Lifeline, and Rolls.

David

Banjo · 08-29-2021, 08:05 AM

My new po converter should be here today. I k is nothing about the old converter as no identifying labels I assume they were bought in bulk at a low price. How do I know if the wiring is adequate for the new po converter. Thanks

DavidM · 08-29-2021, 03:15 PM

Are you buying the whole converter system: AC breakers, DC fuses, and the charger. Or are you buying just the charger. If you are buying just the charger (and the link I gave you was just for the charger) then the exiting converter has a 15 amp breaker that feeds the converter which is fine for that charger.

David

Banjo · 08-30-2021, 07:33 PM

Yesterday I tested the new converter and put out 13-+ volts. Today the batteries are only at 12.45 after charging all day thought they would be closer to 12.6 or better. As nybthoughts

DavidM · 08-30-2021, 07:56 PM

Bad batteries?

David

Morich · 08-30-2021, 08:08 PM

Some details on how and when the voltages are taken may help to clear the question. Was the new converter connected when testing the output voltage? The 13 doesn't really sound like a good level to do a quick charge on really low batteries, so I might want to double check that part. The normal engine alternator will often get you into the 14 range, so 13 sounds low to me, but then it depends on when and how you see that level.
When checking batteries, it never pays to trust them too much as there are several things that can go wrong with one battery that make the entire setup look bad.

For my use, I would first want to know the batteries are good and that requires disconnecting the load fully and using a known good charger to do a full, long term charge like overnight and then letting the battery settle several hours before checking the voltages again.

Battery voltage checks are one of the least reliable methods to tell if the battery is good enough to take and actually hold a charge. Doing it in the RV with loads which are not disconnected with the disconnect switch is really throwing lots of curves into the question.

Banjo · 09-01-2021, 08:17 PM

Ok the batteries would not take a charge of more than 12.45. So I took them back to tractor supply and am changing to agm. I’ll have them hooked up tomorrow and hopefully they will charge appropriately

billyb · 09-02-2021, 08:43 AM

I had battery problems, so I found out where winny buried the converter, and. Bought new one off of the internet. I replaced both batts and everything seems good. Now whats
next.

Banjo · 09-05-2021, 08:12 AM

I got the pd charger installed as well Agm batteries. Bats are 12.75. I haven’t put a load on yet to see what the charging system does but tested it per instructions when installed and it was putting out 13 .9 volt. Barely fit into space but made it work. I installed an outlet to plug it in rather than cut cord and hard wire it in. Thought cutting cord migh void warranty