Considering solar upgrade 2019 Navion 24D

[Morich]

As a small point that may help, sometimes we can get some big benefits from looking the situation over more carefully.
For the mooch docking, don't assume the home outlet has to be 15 amp!
Sorth the locationover and you may findthere are 20 amp circuits in the house and that move from ont outlet to another can get you 5 amps and that can be a critical amount of slack for running the air!

Much depends on the location but a look at the breaker box and what outlets are fed by 15 versus 20 may lead to good things. I know the area around Palacio and things are not always what they seem when looking at the electrical, so look carefully?
Some things to question are if the breaker sizing is correct for the wire size and then is the outlet itself a limiting factor that could change things.

I did some swapping of minor electrical work for other services and got scared and left before the place burned down! The "electrician" doing the work did not have electricity at his house, did not pseak English well and could not explain how a GFCI worked, so I soon lost faith in what we were doing!

Depends on what you have but adding a 30 amp breaker and outlet may be more practical than first thought.

[Marine359]

Nah,
I bought the exact same battery Will reviewed only a week after I saw the review. And the free one he got from Bigbattery had the failure months later. Anyway, I’m glad I bought it. It’s also got some features that no
other battery has.

[Morich]

The basics of what and where of your RV 110AC as currently built will give you some idea of wiring sizes , etc that may need to be considered.

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File.../000033161.pdf

When looking at the 12VDC side, we get far less info on wire by wire with no actual schematics but more just line drawings for location and then there is a label system to ID current wires.

Battery cables are ID'd with tape at each end and this chart:
Click these to get better view?


Wire ID method example:


List to "decode" wire labels:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

Idea is if you are working a 12Volt wire, find ID then to get the from and to of that wire, go to chart.
To help speed finding, trying hit "trl" and F at the same time to bring dropdown box.
Put the ID of the wire in and it then gives you a list of all spots where that is listed. Some things it pops rioght to it, other codes look like part of words in the list and may give 100+ locations!


You can also search the other way if you want to find labels for wires going to a pump?
Input pump and it gives you 56 locataions to scroll through by hitting up or down arrows.

It cuts the chase "some" but far from fool proof!

The interactive parts list can be helpful to find what and where but also specs on some of the electrical items. Always handy to find things like plumbing as well?

https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm

[eyecando]

I don't have any problems running the RV off of a 15 amp circuit as long as I ration the power a little. The converter charges at 80 amps DC which is probably about 9 amps AC. The A/C uses less than 10 amps and runs fine off of a 15 amp circuit as long as the battery charge current has dropped way off. If I wanted to use the induction cooktop or the microwave, I would shut off the AC unit first. I have no problems running the compressor refrigerator at the same time with either the A/C running or the converter charging full blast (one or the other). I haven't measured the current, but I'm probably running just under the 15 amp continuous limit.

My inverter has a setting I could change that to reduce the charging current if I needed to.

The thing I have to watch out for is if the power goes out, the converter will charge at 80 amps for a while after power was restored and the breaker for the 15 amp circuit would be tripped.

[Marine359]

Agree eyecando,
When you have a 15amp SP connection, reprogramming the charger to 20amps draws less than 2 amps ac. You don’t need more than 20 amps charging because you’re hooked up for a long time. Even accounting for converter loss, the remaining ac amperage is more than sufficient to run everything in your camper including A/C, especially if you’ve installed an easy start on your A/C. Although, you won’t be able to run the A/C and microwave simultaneously. When we have guest that use our camper at our home moochdocking, we only have a 15amp home outlet for SP. Everything runs flawlessly unless they start the microwave. Awwww.

[Fanrgs]

The Xantrex Freedom 2000W inverter-charger in our Navion 24V has a built-in transfer switch . it can be set up to use primary Li battery power supplemented by 120V shore power or vice-versa to meet high-amp power needs, like AC startup, induction cooktop + coffee maker, etc. That helps when plugged into a 15A outlet vs. a 30A outlet. Which is how we use it at home because it is always plugged into an outdoor 15A outlet. We have used the MH like that as our "guest house" at holidays to handle the "spillover" from the guest room.